Constabulary

Hard to tell - any labels on the thread? Maybe on the underside of the cone? I have a package one 10 new SCHMETZ 794 needles in size 160 if that helps you for a 1st try. I´d ask 10€ incl. shipping to NL (Airmail letter). I´m from Germany so you should have then in a few days. If you have Paypal I can send them out today. Toledo has a nice needle / thread size chart: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

The table mount winder looks like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bobbin-Winder-Long-Cylinder-Bobbins-Singer-45k-7-42-5-GA5-1-GB6-181-/221414104772?pt=AU_Sewing&hash=item338d4f1ec4 But remember you need one for large size bobbins. If College Sewing is not able to help you should contact Toledeo Sewing Machine Co. in the US, they are often recommended here int he forum for having spare parts for older machines. They also sell the 441 type machines which have the table mount bobbin winder for the large size bobbins so I guess they will have the spare winders too.

Well I guess it will be quite hard to find. You should probably consider a complete new bobbing winder. There are table mount bobbin winder available but you need one for larger size bobbins. Maybe College Sewing in the UK can help you with this.

No, I have not worked with this machine but maybe a manual of the Singer Class 7 helps you to thread the machine. I´m not sure if the treading is the same but I´m sure it will give you an idea. I´m not sure which wheel you mean. Can you post a picture of where this wheel should be attached? 7 CLASS.pdf

Nice set! Seems you have bought a former German Army sewing machine. I remember from my Army time that these were used for repairing Truck tarps on levels above battalions and in depots. I think (but I´m not sure) that these certain kind of work stands were truck mounted for field repair. But the entire outfit is a general repair set for all kind of heavy leather, canvas or webbing harness and so on. Beside of that they maybe be good for repairing sails, parachute harness, heavy tow straps and other heavy stuff. What parts are you looking for?

- Sold - please delete!

So far the timing looks good. Glad you solved it! I´m not exactly sure what you did on the pulley but I guess your machine has a safety clutch (but don´t know for sure). What you probably did is that you have released the safety clutch and set it back in again. This was probably what you have heard. The safety clutch prevents the hook from damage when you hit a hard spot (for example when the needles hits the needle plate) when you are sewing. I hope your machine works well now. You should read the manual before you "rupture" your machine with tools again - Try to find a manual in Italian language. Also try to find information regarding the safety clutch and how you can set it back. Good luck with your machine!

Okay so here is a small Video I just shot from my Singer 111 so you have an idea of how it looks when the tip of the hook meets the needle scarf. It looks a bit different at your machine but basically it is the same. BTW - do you know all the "vocabulary" such as needle scarf, hook, needle plate and so on? At first I would revise the settings you made at the belt pulley set screw you mentioned above. Make sure the screw sits at the correct spot. I would not use the machine again without knowing the screw sits where it should. - I´m serious! This screw secures the pulley and there is a lot of force on that spot when you run the machine and what happens when it is not properly secured can bee seen in the 2 pictures above (different machine but same result). Then remove the needle plate to have a better view on the parts and turn the hand wheel and see where the hook meets the needles. The tip of the hook should meet the needle scarf approx. 1.6mm above the needle eye when the needle bar is in the upwards movement. I think this can bee seen in the video quite clear. Good luck!

It indeed should scare you! I think there should be a flat spot, notch or indentation for the set screw for securing th pulley properly! I unfortunately cannot see the end of the shaft in the Adler parts list. I have attached a picture of a shaft on which a hand wheel has not been secured properly and this has ruined the shaft. The grove that goes around the shaft (picture 2) is worn off from wrong positioned set screws - there shouldn´t be such grove!!! If a machine is out of time you always (ALWAYS) should check the needle bar position first. If this does not solve the problem you can to go further but I think in more than 90% of the cases this solves the problem.

I´m not sure if this was a good idea. The screw is a set screw and normally sits in a certain position on a flattened point or in a notch of the shaft and it sits there for a reason. If I were you I would revise this and put the screw back to where it was otherwise it could damage your drive shaft sooner or later. I´m sure don´t want to damage anything on an Adler machine - trust me my friend this shaft will probably cost and arm and a leg when it is messed up + someone has to install it and this will cost you serious $$$

I recently stumbled over a video of an Singer 133K sewing machine and I mediately fell in love with it But I can´t find much information. What I like to know is : Which sub class has the walking foot. (I know it has not triple feed as it lacks the needle feed as far as I know). I assume it is the 133K8 + K9 but maybe there are other sub classes with walking foot. How high is the foot lift and how thick can these machines sew? I don´t want to sew leather but heavy webbing.

Maybe a moderator could shift topic this to "Leather Sewing Machines". I´m sure you will get a response there very soon.

I don´t have an Adler 267 but these triple feed machines have basically the same mechanism. I took a shot out of a 267 manual so here is a picture (see below) Remove the needle plate and turn the hand wheel until the tip of the hook meets the middle of the needle. Now you hou have to loosen the two screws at the clamps of the needle bar frame and you have to lower your needle bar just a little bit. Just as much until the tip of the hook meets the needle within the scarf just 1.6mm above the eye of the needles during the upward movement of the needle bar. Now fasten both screws tightly + evenly. Do some test stitches by turning the hand wheel and see if this works. The hooks turns twice and it meets the needle scarf when it finishes the 2nd turn. Maybe you have to "play a little bit" but this is how it works on the majority of triple feed mechanism of this class and I´m sure it will be the same at the Adler 267. Sorry no Video.

it´s probably - as most of the times - the needle / hook timing that is wrong. Do you have a manual where the procedure is mentioned?

Not sure if I got you right but regarding the higher foot lift of the inner foot: There is a wing nut or screw on the front side (right side of the rod when you are sitting in front of the machine) which can be set in different positions. I guess your is in the lower position. Set it to the upper position and that should solve the foot lift problem. But a few pictures in advance would be helpful. I also assume that the machines are not correctly threaded.

Absolutely true! Thanks Scott!

price dropped to 599€ but still open of offers.

You get a lot of information on the Consew website: http://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-227R-2 http://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-277R-3 the main differences are, central lubing, large vertical hook, foot lift, stitch length, narrow cylinder,...

Some parts are actually new (see picture above) but most parts I have first degreased and then I put them in a solution of oxalic acid which removes most of the rust and leaves a grayish coating on the metal (don´t ask me how this chemically works). And then I have used the good old wire brush to polish the parts as good as possible.Silver grey hammerite did the rest of the job.

Sorry about pulling this old thread again but I actually have found a working link to the DOC file about the restoration of the Singer 29K13 in the Needlebar forum. Just for the case someone is interested in it: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC0QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fneedlebar.org%2Fmain%2Frestoration%2FSinger29K13.doc&ei=OTClU6nBKKWL0AXW64HQAQ&usg=AFQjCNEA0DvpI_cgnioBfZRNQbNTqgeKbQ&bvm=bv.69411363,d.d2k So you can safe it on your PC

And finally small Video of how it sews.

When you are sewing really slow you don´t really need the needle positioner because you can see where it will stop when you take the foot off the pedal. But it is a nice feature to have when you sew faster. BTW - I just noticed that the tag on my control box and the information on the shipping box say 563A-1 and not 561A-1. An updated model already?

for deep seated stuff I use paint thinner and until now it did not hurt the paint finish of any of the old machines. Flammable yes but as long as you have no open flames around it will not inflame your machine.

True! So far I really like it, though the included manual is really a pain in TA. holy cow - you are sewing 3cm webbing?

Thanks CD, I´m quite pleased with the result. It sews well so far but the rollers which run in the driving cam and feed motion cam are a bit rough as it seems and I think I have to replace them. From just turning them they were good but now that I have reassembled everything they seems to run rough somehow. Well, thats something for the next order. But for them moment I think it works fine.