Constabulary

Be careful with the stuff from Recolor on the outside!!!! It is more aggressive than the regular paint thinner. Would like to see your machine so I´m looking forward to your new thread.

Got the prices - reducer pulley 50mm / 200mm is 50€, the 160mm shaft is 8€ and the 4 adjustment rings are 2€ each. This already includes shipping to my address. Shipping to Norway is extra. I assume weight will be below 1 Kg so registered shipping will be ~10€. So if you or someone else is interested please send me a PM within the next 3-4 days. BTW - I´m not sure if 160mm is enough, don´t forget the width of the flange in your leg...

So I guess you are from Germany too? I use no grease in my 29K patcher machine - I only use grease for capsuled gear boxes. Ballistol is in my opinion NOT a very good gun or machine oil. Cannot explain it in English - Ballistol zieht Wasser an und emulgiert. It is too expensive as well. Or just in German. Das Fett benutze ich nur in gekapselten Lagern aber nicht bei offenen Zahnrädern (die 29K hat keine gekapselten Lager). Ich benutze bei der Singer 29K nur Öl, weil im Fett Nähstaub usw. hängen bleiben und wenn man Öl verwendet wird Staub usw. bei regelmäßiger Ölung halt zum Teil wieder mit ausgespült. Das ist aber meine Sicht der Dinge - andere haben evtl. eine andere Meinung. But lets keep it in English as it is very international here

It´s nice to these these vintage machines alive! Your 335 REALLY tuned out nice - congratulations.

For internal cleaning (and external when I want to repaint a machine) I use this stuff and a paint brush - not sure how it is called in the US. http://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Liter-Waschverdunnung-Verdunnung-Reiniger-von-Recolor-fur-Autolack-WV5000-/190889776705?pt=Autopflege_Wartung&hash=item2c71ead641 It washes down gummed oil + grease really fast. Forget brake cleaner - brake cleaner is a joke compared with the above stuff. For oiling sewing machines and everything else I use S-761 weapons oil. It has a NATO specification and is by far the best I ever used. We used it for our weapons like the MG3 machine gun, HK G36 rifle and HK P8 pistol in the German Army and since then this stuff is my all time favorite oil. I always say - what cleans and lubricates a machine gut can´t be bad for vintage sewing machines http://www.ebay.de/itm/ADDINOL-Waffenol-W18-1-Liter-vollsynthetisch-Korrosionsschutzol-1L-NATO-S-761-/251532836182?pt=Sch%C3%BCtzensport&hash=item3a90867d56 for capsuled gear boxes I use blue long life grease (not for open gears or gear boxes of patcher machines - for these I use the above S-761 oil ) http://www.ebay.de/itm/400g-Fett-Hochtemperatur-Lithium-Komplexfett-Farbe-Blau-Achsfett-KP-2-P-35-/291302135925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item43d2f5d875 But everybody is praising his favorites so you have to decide whether the above mentioned is good or not - I will not switch to anything else.

Jimi - I´m starting to hate you because of your machines - just like Singermania - I don´t like both of you ***just kidding*** Are you making shoes?

Darren is the owner of Able Sewing in Australia. He offers a lot of different needle plates on Ebay but I DO NO KNOW if they will fit for a 45K - contact him through Ebay or send him a PM. http://stores.ebay.com/ablesewing?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Or try to contact the member SINGERMANIA (also from Australia) - he has a HUUUUUUUGE collection of nice vintage sewing machines - maybe he can help you out.

AWESOME - seem there are some more "old cast iron lovers" out there

Jimi - I wish I had your skills + tools for making these things - very impressive! Because of the original decals I have - I have once posted them in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53584&p=342876 So I really think they are no longer usable. But maybe I just have not the right technique.

You can get decals on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2051337.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC2.A0.H0.Xsinger+decals&_nkw=singer+decals&_sacat=13956 I have used this set for My 133K http://www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-Model-31-Commercial-Sewing-Machine-Restoration-Decals-/381061539029?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58b909a4d5 But it appears to be a bit too bold and a bit too high but thats the closest you can get, I think. The ones for the bentwood case are the right size but due to the black border they appear too narrow when applied. I even have original decals form the Singer factory in Germany (disassembled by the Russians in 1945) but they are no longer working very well. So I do not use them. They are a bit flaky. @ Jimi haven´t you bought the flat bed attachment from me on Ebay - I remember I have sent mine to Spain. I still have the picture of your machines you sent me - I really like them! If you don´t mind please post them here. There are for sure some "old cast iron lovers" who like to see them.

Great Job! Very impressive! A Video would be cool! But I´ll stick with my servos anyway - no annoying sound when not running - but I´m honestly impressed!

Well, it´s not too old, they were built in the 1950´s - 1960´s as far as I know. I also have a 307G2 but mine fortunately is running like a dream but it´s true the belts are hard to find. What I can tell you is that the timing belt / arm shaft belt has 32 clamps (teeth) and the distance between the center of the claps is ~1.5 cm and the dictsance between the clamps (edge to edge) is ~10mm, so the total length is ~48cm. Maybe you can find one from another machine.

Catskin - if you are pointing on me you probably got me wrong. I don´t say the new (or Chinese made) machines are bad, most are for sure not bad. I just doubt that they are as long living as the machines form the 1930´s - 1950´s I even think that the tolerances are tighter than 50 years ago - but is it good or is it bad? It pretty much depends on the materials (f.i. forged iron or just cast iron) they have used. A friend of mine once told me that nowadays when you see a lot of chrome or nickel plated parts on a machine (not only sewing machines) it is pretty obvious that the parts are not forged. It most likely is cheap cast iron and the chrome / nickel plating just covers the poor casting and shall make it look like high quality. Often enough old simple technology is longer lasting than anything new build. But I thing the example with the Artisan feet that I gave is pretty obvious. To me it looks like the machine was just made to sell fast and to make profit. If they were made to last I think spare parts shouldn´t be a problem for a 10 or 20 years old machine.

You are welcome Steve - always glad when I can help!

What you mean with X - Y axis with step motor? I know what X and Y axis is but I cannot get the relation to a sewing machine but sounds interesting. Will it be for sewing WW boxes? The bobbin is totally different. The 133K and 132K have large rotary hooks and not an oscillating hooks like the 45K, Adler 20, Singer 7 and so forth. To give you and idea of the dimensions:

Yes, I like it very much! Next thing will be a "custom" harness foot with short heel I´m planing to make as I sometimes have to sew box tacks close to heavy hardware. Similar to this one: VanRhodes - How is your project going?

small update. I finally have installed a new feed dog as I had some issues with inconstant stitches because of worn off teeth. For the records and those who might care: The original feed dog that came with the 133K3 has part # 98402 I actually found one but it would have cost me £58.05 + shipping (thats about $90 + shipping) so I have ordered a feed dog with parts # 97625 which was just £5. It actually fits BUT the tooth part of the # 97625 is about 2mm flatter. I could probably lift the feeding mechanism but I don´t want to mess with the timing so I just put 2mm Delrin under the new feed dog and grind down the needle plate on the inside a little bit - voila - it works perfect. Nice stitching - perfect feeding - I´m very pleased! Small video:

Depends on the power but I´m sure it will! I once ran my 111G156 with a 370Watts 1400rpm clutch motor - no problems - just a bit too fast. I switched to a servo motor and would never go back to a clutch. This is probably something you should consider. If you don´t mind post some pictures of the machines - I always like to see other peoples "old cast iron"

cool chair by the way nice idea to put LTD´s on it to attach the straps.

The youngest machine I have is a Singer 29K71 from the late 1960´s and the oldest a Singer 133K from 1932. They ALL are restored machines (more or less) and they ALL run w/o problem since the day I personally have restored / refurbished them and I´m not a sewing machine mechanic. Why do I buy used machines? 1st off all for money reasons! I believe you get the most for your money when you are buying used machines of well known manufacturers with good reputation. It also is some sort of environmental protection - I think I don´t have to explain it - or do I have to? But it of course depends on your personal situation - how fast do you need the machine and how much you can spend and how is the market in your era (or the www) and can you find a used machine with the specs you require. But used machines can be a risk as well. The more the paint is worn off, the more old oil and dust (or even rust) they have the bigger the risk is. But I personally never had bigger problems - even with very worn looking machines (as my Singer 111) but it of course is a risk and you need the time to restore them - if necessary. I´m personally not in a hurry as I´m not "sewing for a living". It is more or less a hobby for me and I like to keep these old clunkers alive because I´m convinced of their quality and durability. I think durability is THE word what it is all about since you should "get back" what you have spent with what you are producing with the machine. And you get back the the money earlier the less you have spent for your (used) equipment and the longer your equipment lasts the more profit you can make. Simple & stupid - maybe - but isn´t it that way? It took a lot of time and trial and error before I found and found out what I really need but that was a good learning and fun. And I´m sure I'm not done! Learning can also safe you a lot of money. The more you know about your machines the less you have to pay for service - if you know what I mean. So you have to try to balance pro + contras of new and used machines. Back then industrial machines were build to last and to repair and and the market was small. There were just a few known manufacturers so it was a little bit a competition. They tried to stand out with the quality of their products and technical features and not with the cheapest the price. Nowadays you have dozens of Asian manufactures with names you will probably not hear again in 10 years - if you hear or read their names at all somewhere. They all produce (or copy) the successful machines of the well known manufacturers. The best example is the Juki 441 or Singer 111 - everybody knows them and knows their copies as well. Of course the Adler 67, 167 or Pfaff 145 and 545 are more or less copies (or as others say - an interpretation) of the Singer 111 but I think I don´t have to loose words and everybody knows that the 2 mentioned are top quality Mfg´s (among others like Juki, Seiko...). But all the Chinese Mfg´s are in a fight for market power and I don´t think the quality will become much better in their part of the world. They for sure have learned over the years but that does not convince me. Nowadays in most cases the sale of an item depends on the price. And how can you compare quality without knowing the manufacturer? All machines look the same. The only (outside) difference it the label some on put on the machine. And what I DO NOT like is that they all look exactly the same - they just have different labels or plaques attached - thats it! But how can you know that all these Look-A-Likes are mfg. to the same specs and have exactly the same dimensional accuracy w/o really knowing who made the machine? No problem as long as the machine is a couple of years old but how is it in 25 years? Who can tell you if this or that part will fit - I´m sure no one knows. You just have to try if a part will fir or not because no one knows the "real" manufacturer and maybe the Mfg. in China is gone already. I´m not convince that I will read names like Golden Wheel, Soje, Kaixuan, Duma, Feifeng, Jack, Jukai (not JUKI - ha ha), Jakly or what ever they are called in 50 + year. (BTW - google JACK, JAKLY and JUKAI and tell me what you have figured - pretty obvious, isn´t it) In one of the latest post a member was looking for an ARTISAN presser foot but Artisan was not able to deliver it!!! Hell, what - they cannot deliver a presser foot for their own machines! WOW! And thats how it starts - now lets look how it is in 20 years. I think you still can buy Singer parts but who knows if Artisan can deliver parts for their own branded or labeled machines? Do you see what I mean? Don´t get me wrong - I don´t think the quality is bad in general I just don´t believe they will last as long the old known brands did or still do. And the availability of parts is another story. If parts are not available the machine is dead! But as I said before - you have to try to balance pro + contras of new and used machines. And a good documentation and a dealer with a good reputation is quite important the more complex a machine is - no matter if new or used! Just my 2 cents (or is it a Dollar already?) - or shorty story long

Personal opinion - I´d paint it and put new decals on it

BTW - never let the feed dog rub on your presser foot. Either lift the foot or put some fabric or leather between them otherwise both will wear off and parts are expensive.

Sorry but the videos are a bit short. But when you say the needle hit plate it is most likely the needle bar that needs an adjustment. The needle bar has 2 screws on a clamp, you have to loosen both and adjust the needle bar the way that the hook tip meets the needle scarf about 2.5mm above the needle eye within the needle scarf. But first check if the needle meets the hook as mentioned and them make an adjustment. I can´t help very much with the feeding as I never worked on a 45K cylinder machine. I also have never seen a 45K service manual.

Sorry - no tension stud! I thought I had one. 45K parts are hard to find but maybe the tension stud of the GA5-1 or Cowboy CB2500 will fit as they are more or less modern copy of the Singer 45K. I´d contact Toledo Sewing. I often heard they have parts for older machines and they also have the CB2500 so this should be a good source for it. Here is your parts list (direct download from Universal Sewing) Parts List singer 45K21, 45K25

The pulley is correct! Left and right of the pulley should be a felt disc on either side. From let to right it should be assembled like this: Nut - spring - washer - felt disc - pulley - felt disc - washer - stud (of course) - check spring The long curved piece is a foot lift lever. It normally is connected with a mechanism under the table from where you can lift the foot with your knee - or it is connected to a 2nd pedal near your treadle pedal (the one for the motor) so you can lift it with your foot. Is your bobbin winder missing? What you should take care of is that the small check spring that sits on the tension stud (and inside the face plate) always rests on the small pin and that the thread travels first around the pulley then over the pin near the pulley and the through the check spring. I have attached a picture of my old Adler 104