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Constabulary

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Everything posted by Constabulary

  1. of course - the 1245 in the name points it out.
  2. Seems you don´t get a feedback because not many are using it as it seems - maybe for a reason, who knows. If these Chinese machines are good or bad will tell the time. As long as they are new (or not too old) they for sure will work fine. Most of the white painted Chinese machines are just labeled, meaning that some importers just put their sticker on them but as a matter of fact non of end consumer knows from which factory they come. So a sticker (no matter what "brand") on a Chinese machine tells nothing about the quality in general. If I had to choose between a 40 years old Adler 167, Pfaff 545 or a new Chinese made "Reliable" (great name for a machine btw) I´d always choose the Adler or Pfaff or even Consew when made in Japan. They have proofed their reliability over several decades. My newest machines is a 1967 built singer and the oldest a 1932 built singer. I wonder how long the Chinese machines will last. Just my point of view - maybe I´m wrong - time will tell.
  3. looks like a Chinese copy of the Adler 467
  4. Textima, Claes and Veritas are a former German Democratic Republic (East Germany) brands and I honestly know nothing about the quality but I think it is very good! Spare parts could be a real problem on the long run. I never heard of Textima industrial sewing machine spare parts. Maybe one or another sewing machine dealer in the era of the former GDR has some old stock.
  5. This is a HANG Piccolo rivet machine (you should find the name on the lid of the rivet box). The HANG Piccolo usually uses relatively small tubular rivets. The machine is set up for just 1 size of rivets. Its a nice little machine but not very versatile. It´s main use is riveting official papers from lawyers, authorities and so on - if you know what I mean. The Company still exists and these machines are new VERY expensive and so are the accessories. http://www.hang-shop.com/oesmaschinen/kleinoesmaschinenhandbetaetigt/modell10100piccoloiii/oesmaschinemodell10100.php
  6. Steve, your Textima seems to the model 223. I´d either contact CL-Maschinenbau as they took over the Claes manufacturing of their patcher machine http://www.cl-maschinenbau.com/leistungen/claes_kl_8346.php?lang=en Or there is a VERITAS Lounge: http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/main.htm Website is a bit nuts but you never now. They are researching the old Veritas (former Singer) plant in Wittenberge, Germany but I´m not registered there. Maybe a source for a manual: http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/servicecenter_ersatzteile/seite_biefel.htm
  7. I like this bag too! My idea would be that you probably could make the flap out of heavy canvas instead of leather. I think that would give the bag a "lighter look" if you know what I mean. If you´re going to make more of these bags you could give the flap different colours just to give your customer a choice. And I´d probably add a bottom parts in the same color. Just my view as a customer (not a leather worker) Nice bag - really!
  8. seems he is spaming videos in some post. assuming he is working in the factory that builds these machines or so. pretty annoying and not helpful. Check his last posts. The name tells a lot. Just my guess.
  9. sounds like another Chinese machines - pretty much the same features as the Cowboy CB227R or Consew 227R I´d say but different brand name.
  10. Sorry to say that but this price is crazy! No question that these are high end top class machines but the average leather worker or hobbyist will most likely not have the output to afford these machines. And I wonder how much the accessory feet will be. And I think you will not be able to repair these machines "at home" - you will have to take them to your dealer for a periodic maintenance or so. Take the $8500 and visit Leather Machine Co. (or other dealers of your choice) and go home with a fully equipped shop - just as a comparisons. I know the machines are different and the Adler has more features but honestly.... It´s crazy!
  11. You are welcome. I wanted to use the machine for my self so the manual was meant for my personal use but since I have sold the machine (as mentioned above) I no longer have use for it and I don´t want to make money with manual copies. I like to share these things and I hope other will do the same for free. Nice to have a feedback that someone is really has a use for it.
  12. VERY nice - VERY VERY nice!!!! I´d like to see the other sheds too (I have to calculate the transport capacity) Steve - I´m sorry but within the next few month we have to invade Australia to bring the "Looted Art" back home but the main reason is your machine collection. And after that we will produce be a movie called "The Sewing Machine Men" telling the story of how a task force of sewing machine nerds brought back "robbed" sewing machines.... **just kidding** Yes, the Junker & Ruh SD28 often go for a lot of money probably because of their simplicity. Other sole sewing machines go for much less. Everything below 31.5 Kg can be shipped by regular airmail by DHL but when it is heavier it will go by boat or so. I´m open for that...
  13. Machine is sold already but for all the "Vintage Sewing Machine Nerds" (like me) - especially for the one or two in Down Under who have some of these Adler II & III type machines I have revised / digitally improved a quite poor PDF file of an original manual as good as I was able to and put it into a new PDF file again (took me a few hours). It is not the best quality but much better than the one I paid for and still better than having non. So here you go (direct download link): Manual for Adler Class II, III & Militaria Type Sewing Machines It is in German language
  14. men - I´m staring to hate you Steve I think when Australia goes to war and they have a shortage of metal, you´ll be the 1st person they´ll ask Can you post some "overview" pictures of your sewing machines piles? I´m just curious how all that looks as I have to make a plan how to bring stat stuff to Germany (oh - damn - that was my secret plan)
  15. Different servos - different constructions - different functions and how to set them up. I also don´t have to crawl under my table. Pedal is all I need for speed control and I can change the motor settings from where I´m sitting but I don´t have to as everything works fine (except needle positioning but I don´t need it)
  16. Darren, you can import what ever you want as it is your business but the world is full of vintage cast iron domestic machines made by Singer, Paff and dozens of other brands. I don´t know how many millions of (functional) cast iron sewing machines are still out there. So I just don´t see the need for new made in India cast iron domestic sewing machines with a vintage look. No question that there is a lot of plastic junk out there but honestly... Cast iron sewing machines of obsolete models made in India? I cannot image that people would ask for them. But we don´t have to discuss this as it is your business and I wish you luck with it - I mean it!
  17. I´m not a Pfaff expert but I doubt they are still made in Germany. Google for Paff 1245, Typical 1245, Euromac 1245 and Mauser 1245 - pretty much the same white painted machine with just different brand stickers. Nowadays the old brand names are no longer what they supposed to be. Nowadays most of the machines come from China or somewhere else in Asia. If they were made in Germany I think they would cost nearly twice as much.
  18. sorry - seems I did not read carefully... Maybe the hand wheel too tight. The Hand wheel should be attached to the shaft with 2 set screws (one screw sits in a V notch or a flattened spot) and at the end of the shaft in the middle of the hand wheel there should be an adjustment screw which presses the hand wheel toward the machine body. Loosen the two set screws and the adjustment screw and try to pull back the hand wheel may 1mm or so and then see if it goes lighter. If yes adjust the screw the way that the hand wheel is as close to the machine body as possible but should be still easy to turn. Thats what I´d try at first at the machines beside the oiling. I dont know this particular motor but mine is easy to turn by hand.
  19. slip of the V-belts off and try to turn the hand wheel again if it goes easier then the fault is not the machine. Any try if you can turn the motor pulley and speed reducer pulley easily so you can narrow the fault. Beside of that oil the machine according to the manual.
  20. BTW - they are quite cheap I paid 2.50€ for one bulb. Mine has 38 LED´s and just 2W
  21. I think 60W is too much when you work close to it. Regularly you find 15W to 25W bulbs in the sewing machine lamps. I recently have updated my vintage Singer lamps with LED "cold white light" bulbs. They make a nice bright light but are not dazzling. Advantage: nice bright light, low energy consumption and long life and my lamps still look vintage from the outside. Some pics:
  22. Good to know that the 133K8 sews 8mm, so I don´t have to look for one any longer as my 111w156 sews 9mm and I needed something for 10-12mm and I have found this with my 133K3. Maybe a 45K with reverse would be nice... but first I will try out my 133K and see how it will serve me. A nice to have would be a box bar tacker for 1" webbing straps - any suggestion for me? Pretty awesome to know these folks all over the world. Maybe my Adler III would have been something for you but I sold it already.
  23. Dirtclod - when you get rich then please buy a ticket for me too. I really would love to see all these nice machines. Steeve - nice lot again - I like the cast iron SINGER stand. This is something I´m looking for so my Singer don´t have to work on Adler stands any longer
  24. Hey Steve - nice lot of machines again - where the hell do you get them all from? Isn´t it very expensive to ship them to down under? 9x Pearson No. 6? Holy cow - seems in Australia will be the worldwide Pearson Depot sooner or later The 133K8 only sews 8mm - are you sure that it is not more? My 133K3 sews at least 12mm (yet hand cranked) and maybe 13-14mm with an Adler foot as I noticed the Adler are about 1 - 1.5mm shorter than the Singer foot (at least the ones I have).
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