Constabulary

Me too - its a hobby for me and I absolutely understand your point - It´s not that I haven´t had this idea but I honesty don`t dare to order from China! I´m not a mechanical embryo but setting up this type of machine from zero isn`t something I would dare! I´m sure I have seen a video where Steve was explaining several adjustments on the Cobra 4 but don´t know where it was. I remember he explained something like how to line up screws with markings or so (view from the backside) but I honestly don´t know where I have seen the video.

Yah - the different needle systems suck - I fortunately can use 135x17 / 135x16 on all my machines except the 133K. The 135x17 (for fabric) or 135x16 (for leather) are slightly longer that the 135-34 so you probably have to rise your needle bar a tiny bit if the machine is setup for 135-34. Well it is possible that your 267 is setup for 180 needles but I think they are factory set to 140/22. When you are using thicker needles you may need a feed dog with wider hole (because of thicker needle + thicker thread) and maybe have to move the hook saddle a tiny bit to the right to give the thicker thread more space to slip through the gap between the small tongue of the bobbin basket and needle plate. You know what I mean? Maybe the former owner has set it up for 180 needles already - I dunno. I´d also check the setting of your bobbin case opener. It ensures that the thread can slip through w/o problems. EDIT: TROX used Tkt 15 thread - that is about 207 in the US and this thread needs a 160/23 needle. You are using a 180/24 needle so I´d say it is too thick for your machine. Try your 130/21 needle with a 138 or 92 thread - maybe that works better.

Direct from China? Seems you have learned the lesson the hard way (no offence). I think Leather Machine Co. has a Video on Youtube on how to adjust the Cobra machines. Maybe this will help you.

Are you probably using the wrong needle type? Adler 267 needs 134-35 (DPx35) needles afaik. A size 180/24 needles is too thick I´d say. I think 140/22 is the max. recommended by Adler. I have not worked on a 267 yet. The 1.6mm above the needle eye is where the hook meets the needle scarf on 111 and 227 (Singer 153) type machines with a 135x17 (DPx35) needle in general. This describes the point where the hook catches the loop approx. at its widest point. The rise after BDC at 111 and 227 machines is usually is 2.5mm. I don´t know how much internal technical difference is between the 111 and the the 267. But seems your manual says 1.8mm - 2.00mm after BDC so I would assume the needle is the problem.

Check if one of the set screws is loose and rubbing on a gear. Turn the fly wheel by hand and watch the gears. If not I would say Pcox is rigth

Yeah the current exchange rate really sucks! (Sorry Steve) Ckeck with Sieck: www.sieck.de They are located in Bayreuth - maybe not too far away from you.

25,4mm = 1" 25.4mm : 3.38mm = 7.5 I´m not good at math but it should be 7.5 SPI - or not?

I don´t have a 441 but I think the wedge on the lever should be aligned with the the "0" marking for zero feeding? And from there on back and forth stitchings should have the same length. If they don´t I would assume something is wrong with the machine - or not?

The current €/$ exchange rate is quite bad for imorting goods from the US - unfortunately! Keep in mind that you have to add import taxes and VAT (21% in Austria as far as I know) to the total amount including the shipping costs!!! Sewing machine + shipping = invoiced amount + imoprt tax (3.7% afaik) + VAT = total amount http://ec.europa.eu/taxation_customs/dds2/taric/measures.jsp?Lang=de&SimDate=20150307&Area=US&Taric=84522900&LangDescr=de

Do you have a website? The one you linked in your profile does not work.

I don´t think you will be happy with this machine. It is not "that certain type" of walking foot leather workers are talking about usually. The Juki DU-1181 has top and bottom feed but no needle feed. When Leather workers are talking about a walking foot machine then triple feed, compound feed or unison feed is meant. That means the material is feed by feed dog (bottom feed), the needle (needle feed) and a presser foot (top feed) synchronized all at the same time. Toledo Sewing Machines explains this system on their website: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/walking-foot.html My opinion is that you don`t have to spend $1000. You CAN find good used machines for way less on craigslist or so. Often enough older machines are not too badly worn but you of course can`t be sure. There are many examples in the forum where member have bought good used machines for fair money. But here are of course members who had less luck with their machine but as far as I remember the majority have not failed with their used machines. Most of the time the needle hook timing is off and that often enough is an easy fix. I´m one who never has bought a new machine. I bough all machines used and have restored them (more or less) and they all work very well and I´m not a sewing machine mechanic! My oldest machine is from 1932 and sews absolutely perfect! But it is true that you have to invest $250 -$300 for a new servo motor and a speed reducer and maybe some extra $ for some parts. But I´m convinced that you can save money when you buy a used machine but be aware that it often enough means that you have to rework them a little bit before they work properly. You will get a a lot of support in the LW forum when you have problems with your machine (no matter if bough new or used). Anyway - if you don´t feel comfortable with the idea of reworking a used machines by your self you should buy a machine from one of the dealers who have their banners on top of this website. They all have a good reputation and I think they all have new and used machines to choose from. They will guide you when you tell them what you are planing to do.

Many LW member also have DIY speed reducers made from a shaft 2 pulleys, pedestal bearings or something likely. Depends on your access to proper parts, tools and skills. I´m sure you´ll find some nice ideas when you search the forum for speed reducer. Just an idea...

I personally think a smaller motor pulley (2" or smaller) and the addition of a speed reducer is the best way to slow down sewing speed. You also have more torque when you add a speed reducer.

http://www.anglosewing.co.uk/index.html http://www.dcrmachines.co.uk/index.html http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Juki-441-Cylinder-Arm-Walking-Foot-Extra-Heavy-Duty-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-/171595954070?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27f3ea7796

most machines have feed dogs but the triple feed / compound feed machines (like the Cowboy 3200 or 4500) often have smooth feed dogs w/o teeth

The machine does not exist anmore. I just kept some parts from it everything else is gone.

$200 is not very much. I´d say almost impossible to find a suitable leather sewing machine in that price range. I´d check Craigslist (in case you are in the US) but be aware that you probably have to restore or adjust the machine. That may take some time and in worst case some extra $ for spare parts. Check this link http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 it will help you to find out what kind of machine you will need.

not sure but looks a bit like a Singer 366 but w/o reverse....

Okay - I honestly I don`t know the wakling foot type of the 31K. The feet are different I think so forgot what I have said.

I don´t know the Juki - maybe you just have to make some adjustments - too many machines out there you cannot know all. I´d contact a JUKI dealer (maybe Keystone Sewing Machine Co.) and ask for details.

Sorry - did not read the 1st post - you of course can buy a new bobbin winder, they are just $10 to $15 http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOBBIN-WINDER-FOR-INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINES-2-1-2-SMALL-WHEEL-/160887974762?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2575abab6a Or buy a nut, a spring and two tension disc but a new bobbin winder is cheaper I think. Piping feet are cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEWING-Zipper-PIPING-CORDING-FOOT-HIGH-SHANK-JUKI-BROTHER-HIGHLEAD-SINGER-CONSEW-/320961619446?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4abacda5f6 When you are buying piping feet - always add the thickness of the material you wan to sew!!! Otherwise the cutout in the foot is too narrow. When you are looking for accessory feet always make sure they have a "high shank" (don´t buy Pffaf feet, their shanks are even higher than the Singer shanks - at least the old ones)

Thats interesting - I`m just about reworking an old Pfaff (flat bed) that has about the same "issue". The feed dog just moves back and forth but not up and down (not oscillating). After further inspection and comparing with pictures of other machines I figured it is lacking a certain mechanism (an additional driving rod). And after some more research I figured it is a special binding machine and it just does not need this additional rod. Sounds odd but thats how it is. So now hat I read your machine also "was" a binding machine before I think it is possible that the machine was just built that way and it is all correct. But maybe one of the dealers can jump in and shed some more light on this.

That parts belongs to the 2-piece bobbin winder - see picture. if you don´t have the main part I may have one if you are interested... will look for it later today.

Pulling material through makes no sense except you have a darning machine. There actually is a variant of this machine which is made for darning. Is it really sewing when you pull it through or is it just making stitches w/o thread? Maybe you can post some good detailed pictures of your machine and maybe some sees right away what is wrong with it... ATM I only could imagine thta the stitch lenght adjuster is the problem

Now THAT is an impressive statement from someone whos working day in and day out with all kind of sewing machines! That substantiates the impression I have from my old Singers! I can´t help my self but that is exactly what I "feel" when I´m working with my machiens - they all (really all) run like a dream! But I have to admit that all other machiens I once owned (Pfaffs and Adlers) worked well too but I don´t know why I just like the old Singers better and would never trade them for a more modern machien. I will keep them as long as they last.