Constabulary

Hard to decide w/o seeing pictures. I would probably strip the machine (I just did it with a 29K1) and re paint it. 29K are not rare machines and the older they are the worst their performance is - most of the time. You have to decide what you want to have in your work shop - a rusty original machine or a good looking machine (not speaking of the performance). I´d prefer a good looking machines. And for 29K´s you can buy full new decal sets. It´s the same as with old timer cars - most people like to have nice looking cars. Even restored cars are still oldtimers. But it of course depends... Always keep in mind that customers could come to your shop and I think a good looking machine leaves a better impression than and rusted one,

I never was thinking of an OCR and also never tried it... Good idea!

Tomorrow I´ll work on some small details and will test sew it. Then I´m done I think. I´ll try to make a small video in the days to come.

Some progress I have added a small speed reducer and a flat bed XL attachment some more pics

For sewing fabric some folks use Teflon tape on the underside of the foot but I´m not sure if it works with leather. I never tried it With the roller the is feeding smoother (no frictional resistance on the foot) due to the roller and so you can even reduce the foot pressure I´d say (fewer marking feed dog marks on the leather). And yes, turning the material is easier f.i. when you are following curved edges, you can sew closer to raised edges and so forth. The position of the roller is straight as the feed dog and it should be adjusted close to the needle w/o rubbing on the needle and thread.

Holy Cow - what a bunch of dumb idjits! Who pays for all the damages? UPS or the sender? You can buy the balance wheel at College Sewing in the UK (costs good $$$) and they have a wide range of 132K parts too: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=132K But I can tell you that the heavier balance wheel of the Singer 45K will fit on the upper shaft as well. The only thing is that you need a spacer and when you have a machine mounted bobbin winder it will no longer work with the 45K balance wheel.

Strange configuration, maybe they needed it that way for a certain sewing applications on some of the equipment they have repaired with it or they don´t wanted to switch the foot all the time.... I don´t know. The foot holds down the material and ensures that the feed dog can transport the material properly. When the foot pressure is too low it is possible that the needle lifts up the material when it is in the upwards movement especially when sewing thick + dense materials like leather because of the frictional resistance between leather and needle. It is also possible that when the pressure is too low the feed dog has not enough "grip" to move the material forward (especially when the teeth of the feed dog are rather worn than sharp) but when the pressure is too high the feed dog can leave marks on the leather or when you have waaaaaaaaaaaaaay to much pressure on the feed dog if is possible that the feed dog is scratching on the leather w/o moving it (but thats rare). A good advice is that you keep the underside of the pressure foot well polished to reduce the frictional resistance on the foot.

I always wondered why these attachments are no longer made. @ Darren Brosowsky f you read this - how about reproducing these attachments in India? I guess you have contacts there, right? I think most are quite useful for leather workers. Aren´t they?

You can´t? You have to! Sorry Gregg but I don´t have the patience to translate it.

There you go - I hope you can deal with it Attachments Adler 4, 5, 104, 104, Singer45K, Claes

Your machine is rather a "clone" of the Adler 5 (not 105). I can make a lot of words but instead I will post here or send you an extract from the original Adler 4 /5 manual where a lot of the attachments are pictured and described (in German language).

would be a shame to scrap them - I hope they will find a new home!

I´m not exactly sure what you mean. You of course have to guide the material no matter which foot is installed. What means "with the roller up" - have you installed roller foot + regular presser foot together?

Maybe just a timing or thread tension problem. The Singer 111w series are one of the few older machines you still can get almost every single part for. I´m sure one of the LW member can help you to setup the machine again. $200 is not too bad but I´d try to get a better price -maybe $150 or so. How is the overall condition?

Contact the LW member SINGERMANIA (Steve) - I´m sure he can help you.

Hi Ron, so you are the only dealer who sells Techsew machines? I did not know that I assumed there are more dealers and you are a kind of wholesaler and dealer. Sorry - I don´t wanted to offend you in any kind! I´m sure that you will send your machines out well tested. Please apologize!

Seems the machine has not been tested properly before shipping. Not sure where you put the shim but usually there is a disc with a small bar in the center and this small bar can be adjusted by tapping it a little bit to one or the other side to adjust the tension release. Most machines of this class (if not all) have about the same hook / needle bar / timing settings. So you had to go back to almost zero with the timing as it seems. Glad you solved it!

I´d probably choose the 111w155 because of the safety clutch!!!

These machines are pretty much the same class as the 2 above they just have post beds instead of flat bed or a cylinder arm. Take the thread you want to use and the material you want to use and try out the machines. Maybe you´ll find out that non of them is working for you - just try them. Thats the best way to find out if they are good or not. Sewing speed is one thing more important is if the machine can handle the thread and material you want to use. You can easily replace the clutch motor with a servo motor. I can recommend the Jack servos from College Sewing: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=servo

The clutch motor seems to be very fast. It probably runs at 2800 rpm and that is difficult to slow down. You probably have to swallow a bitter pill and replace the clutch motor with a new servo motor. So when the guy with the 167 is a difficult man I´d leave him alone with his machine! But I would still test sew the 69 when possible to check if it meets your requirements. Twinoaks is right, the 69 is not a heavy duty machine and has its limits. You probably have to look for a heavier machine when you want to sew with thicker thread.

Holy Cow - what a fly wheel!!! I don´t see a stitch length adjuster and how do you put it in reverse? Or am I missing something?

The 167 has a larger hook + bobbin and since you are planing to sew flat items mainly it´s a good choice. I´m not sure but is it possible that the 167-62s has a roller foot and no triple feed / compound feed? The 69 is a cylinder machine with compound feed and when you make your self a flat bed attachment the 69 is the more versatile machien I´d say. But I´d test sew both machines to see which one works best for you. If I had to choose Id take the 69 but it has the smaller hook + bobbin... 1985 - 1990 is relatively new - I have machine from 1932 in use

The 133K´s are really nice machine, I recently have restored a 133K3. But keep in mind that it has no reverse. The EY prefix makes is a post 1965 made machine I´d say so it is relatively "new" (mine if from 1932 and still runs smooooth) http://www.singerco.com/support/machine-serial-numbers/double-letter Well, it depends in what part of the world you are. Sewing machines in Australia are by far more expansive than in the US or Europe. When you are buying form a private seller the price should be about 1/2 of the dealer price I´d say as you have no warranty, support and so forth. It also depends if the machine comes with useful accessories or even with some spare parts. In Great Britain some dealers ask 1000 GBP (approx. $1500) or more. The one in the picture seems to be a really nice one. I would say between $600 and $800 is a fair price when you are buying from a private seller. I have uploaded a user manual for the 133K8 - check the below linked post. Maybe its useful in advance. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56667&p=383242

I can´t give you an advise w/o having the machine in front of me. I also have a bit of slop when I jiggling the needle bar but thats about 1/2 mm or so and I think it is normal. Skipping stitches is usually a timing problem or your hook tip is worn. Do you know how to time the 29K71? You can download a manual here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57862&p=372012

Picture is a bit small but it seems to be a Singer 133K8 with walking foot