Constabulary

yes they are water slide decals. I have used them on my 111G156 and 133K3 and some lamps. I´m satisfied. For detailed instructions contact the seller or check his website: http://www.customfeatherweights.com/decals-page/29

Well - Singer in Wittenberge made A LOT of industrial sewing machines as is seems - they even made a 111W type called 111WD. Here you can find a list of German made / assembled "Wittenberge" Singers: http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/naehmaschinenwerk_produktionsprofil/seite01_singer.htm http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/naehmaschinenwerk_produktionsprofil/seite02_singer.htm Yet I unfortunately have not seen many of the German made machines (meaning pre 1945 made). I would love to see (and own) one of the 111WD model machines. I guess a lot of factory used industrial machines where destroyed during the allied air raids during the war. I was fortunate to acquire a wooden box of an traveling shoemaker (or cobbler) + leather worker. And that box contained a nice bunch of NOS singer spare parts (tension springs and tiny screws mainly) Singer needles and a huge lot of harness and Sys 328 needles, awls, thread and so forth. The most interesting part (though not very spectacular) was and accessory box of the 111WD machine so I know they really exited! I asked the seller if he still has the machine but seems it is long gone - too bad.

Added some cabinet door snappers (or how do you call them?) to put the flat bed in a fixed position. And I have added a sewing lamp. I´m finally done And here is a Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFmD-Qfn08g

it depends - I think a restored machine is worth more than a barn find. Don´t expect everybody loves the vintage & worn appearance. It for sure has some charm but it depends on the overall appearance. If you want a machine just for decoration - fine - sell as is but if someone really wants to use it I think a nice restored machine will bring you some more $. Just my opinion.

Well, I`m sometimes using 207 (T210) in my Singer 111 w/o problems but with a 160 needle. But as Geneva said usually 138 thread is working best with this type of machine When it already had some "temper tantrums" as you say then there is probably something wrong. Have you checked the timing of the needle + hook? Is the machine correctly threaded (top + bottom)? Have you checked the tension on the bobbin case? Is the needle scarf or the grove facing right? Is it facing straight right or has it a bit of an angle?

Alex, the 135x17 is for fabric (round point) the 135x16 is for leather - same needle length + size but different needle tip (or point). You don´t have to change any settings you just have to insert a leather needle.

I don´t know what this thing is but usually the adjustment screw for the presser foot is located there. Or take a picture from the to so we can see it better. This is how it looks at my 111G156 Because of the small tab that breaks your thread - try to push it back a tiny bit with a small screwdriver or so. If you can`t get it fixed I´d replace the entire tension unit. A new one is about $10. It´s held by just 2 small screws but you probably have to adjust the unit a bit. Or just take the parts from it you need to fix your old tension unit and you have some spare parts for the future. Thats the big advantage oft the old 111 series machines - you can get parts everywhere and even for a good price.

Hard to decide w/o seeing pictures. I would probably strip the machine (I just did it with a 29K1) and re paint it. 29K are not rare machines and the older they are the worst their performance is - most of the time. You have to decide what you want to have in your work shop - a rusty original machine or a good looking machine (not speaking of the performance). I´d prefer a good looking machines. And for 29K´s you can buy full new decal sets. It´s the same as with old timer cars - most people like to have nice looking cars. Even restored cars are still oldtimers. But it of course depends... Always keep in mind that customers could come to your shop and I think a good looking machine leaves a better impression than and rusted one,

I never was thinking of an OCR and also never tried it... Good idea!

Tomorrow I´ll work on some small details and will test sew it. Then I´m done I think. I´ll try to make a small video in the days to come.

Some progress I have added a small speed reducer and a flat bed XL attachment some more pics

For sewing fabric some folks use Teflon tape on the underside of the foot but I´m not sure if it works with leather. I never tried it With the roller the is feeding smoother (no frictional resistance on the foot) due to the roller and so you can even reduce the foot pressure I´d say (fewer marking feed dog marks on the leather). And yes, turning the material is easier f.i. when you are following curved edges, you can sew closer to raised edges and so forth. The position of the roller is straight as the feed dog and it should be adjusted close to the needle w/o rubbing on the needle and thread.

Holy Cow - what a bunch of dumb idjits! Who pays for all the damages? UPS or the sender? You can buy the balance wheel at College Sewing in the UK (costs good $$$) and they have a wide range of 132K parts too: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=132K But I can tell you that the heavier balance wheel of the Singer 45K will fit on the upper shaft as well. The only thing is that you need a spacer and when you have a machine mounted bobbin winder it will no longer work with the 45K balance wheel.

Strange configuration, maybe they needed it that way for a certain sewing applications on some of the equipment they have repaired with it or they don´t wanted to switch the foot all the time.... I don´t know. The foot holds down the material and ensures that the feed dog can transport the material properly. When the foot pressure is too low it is possible that the needle lifts up the material when it is in the upwards movement especially when sewing thick + dense materials like leather because of the frictional resistance between leather and needle. It is also possible that when the pressure is too low the feed dog has not enough "grip" to move the material forward (especially when the teeth of the feed dog are rather worn than sharp) but when the pressure is too high the feed dog can leave marks on the leather or when you have waaaaaaaaaaaaaay to much pressure on the feed dog if is possible that the feed dog is scratching on the leather w/o moving it (but thats rare). A good advice is that you keep the underside of the pressure foot well polished to reduce the frictional resistance on the foot.

I always wondered why these attachments are no longer made. @ Darren Brosowsky f you read this - how about reproducing these attachments in India? I guess you have contacts there, right? I think most are quite useful for leather workers. Aren´t they?

You can´t? You have to! Sorry Gregg but I don´t have the patience to translate it.

There you go - I hope you can deal with it Attachments Adler 4, 5, 104, 104, Singer45K, Claes

Your machine is rather a "clone" of the Adler 5 (not 105). I can make a lot of words but instead I will post here or send you an extract from the original Adler 4 /5 manual where a lot of the attachments are pictured and described (in German language).

would be a shame to scrap them - I hope they will find a new home!

I´m not exactly sure what you mean. You of course have to guide the material no matter which foot is installed. What means "with the roller up" - have you installed roller foot + regular presser foot together?

Maybe just a timing or thread tension problem. The Singer 111w series are one of the few older machines you still can get almost every single part for. I´m sure one of the LW member can help you to setup the machine again. $200 is not too bad but I´d try to get a better price -maybe $150 or so. How is the overall condition?

Contact the LW member SINGERMANIA (Steve) - I´m sure he can help you.

Hi Ron, so you are the only dealer who sells Techsew machines? I did not know that I assumed there are more dealers and you are a kind of wholesaler and dealer. Sorry - I don´t wanted to offend you in any kind! I´m sure that you will send your machines out well tested. Please apologize!

Seems the machine has not been tested properly before shipping. Not sure where you put the shim but usually there is a disc with a small bar in the center and this small bar can be adjusted by tapping it a little bit to one or the other side to adjust the tension release. Most machines of this class (if not all) have about the same hook / needle bar / timing settings. So you had to go back to almost zero with the timing as it seems. Glad you solved it!

I´d probably choose the 111w155 because of the safety clutch!!!