Constabulary

Art - I´m sure I read the grove to the right - but seems I misread and typed to fast - sorry

When the machine is properly set up I´m sure you will be happy with it. It takes the same feet as the Singer 111 triple feed machines and you can get a wide range of accessories + spare parts for it for reasonable prices. But I don´t know if it can handle 207 threads but for sure the 138 thread w/o problems. w/o having seen the machine $500 including a DC Servo motor seems to be a fair deal when the machine is working properly. I´d test sew it before you pay the seller. Download the manual and read it or take it with you when you are test sewing it.

Well, it depends on how much you are willing to spend and if you are looking for a new or used machine and what is available on the market in your region. Are you looking for a flat bed or cylinder bed machine? The flat bed "medium duty" upholstery type Singer 111w type machines (like Singer 111w, Adler 67, 167, 267, Pfaff 145, 545, Consew 226 and so many more) can sew up to 9-10mm thick materials (maybe some can sew thicker) and can handle 138 but not all can handle 207 thread. Usually it´s recommended to buy "more machine than you need" because the heavy duty machines like the 441 type machines (Juki 441, Cowboy 3500, Techsew 3600, Cobra Class 4 or many others) can handle thread from 138 onwards and some can sew almost any thickens up to 1". But there are too many machines (including vintage machines) on the market and you cannot know them all. Since you live in Canada I´d probably contact Raphael Sewing Machines Inc. / Techsew - they are member here in the forum and have a banner on top of the website. I´m sure they can guide you when you are telling them what exactly you are planing to do. Or check the Sale section here in the forum.

Sorry Art but the grove is on the left, the scarf is on the right! But I´m sure you meant the scarf. @Rowdybarn Maybe the needle bar is a bit too high or to low or the hook tip is too far away from the needle or the needle / hook timing is off. Since it is a new machine I´m sure the manual gives you instruction how to make adjustments. If you don´t have a manual you can download it here: http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/205RB-1.PDF if you still have trouble I´m sure someone here can help you.

The 107w is a high speed drop feed zig zag machine. I once had a "German clone" of it a Durkopp 252 and I don´t think it is ideal for leather. You of course can sew garment leather with it but as far as I remember I was just able to sew 69 or 92 thread with it. I have no experience with a 241-2 but this thread gives you answers: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57636 With some luck I´m sure you can find a walking foot (triple feed) machine for about the same money. This pinned thread should give you some guidance for finding the machine you want / need: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239

You can move the hook saddle a bit to the right but I don´t know if the the hook saddle is the same as on the 545. I think at least the bobbin case opener is different because of the larger bobbin. But it would be intersecting to know if this modification is possible.

Any new insights on this topic?

Water bath box no longer available. Someone interested in the remaining parts for $20 + shipping? This will just cover my costs for proper packaging + Paypal fees and leave me just a few bucks. My storage space for parts is very limited and I just don´t wan to throw away parts.

W/o knowing the machine I´d assume it is a needle / hook timing problem. I would like to see this machine in action as well!!!

Thats exactly what I discovered whern I was working on a Pfaff 145. Much much more parts a (extra roller for the footlifter f.i.). Thats why I like the much simpler Singer 111w and older Duerkopp (not Duerkopp-Adler) 239 and 241 machines so much - they are much easier to work with.

Thanks for your work - too bad the pages are oil soaked it´s a bit irritating to read . I´d rather put 92 thread in the bobbin if you need a smaller size bottom thread. But if 69 thread is required for your project and it is strong enough and the bottom is not visible you of course can try it. But you for sure have to play with the thread tension.

Okay - I just have checked intl. DHL shipping rates and it makes no sense. Shipping to the US would be more than 90€ and to EU countries it would be approx 55€ as it weights more than 40 pounds when packed up If someone still wants it I´d sell it for $50 as is + shipping.

Thats correct but the only question was: "How do I adjust the tension on the bobbin." and thats what I have answered.

Left screw on the bobbin case spring - see picture. Make 1/4 turns and check again

Do you have the original instruction book or a copy? if it is an original it would be great if you could scan it and post a PDF here. There is an instruction book as PDF available but the quality is not very good. I´m sure some folks would be grateful.

Yes a 29 model w/o the stitch regulator, the spool pin is missing and the tension stud is bent as it seems. I´m not sure but seems the pin that connects the needle bar with arm lever is missing too. I would not buy it unless you are a collector and I would not pay $300.

Sell your 31-15 and buy my 96K41

Selling a nice Singer 96K41 - built in 1949 as it seems. This is just the head + some accessories. It´s a bit "like" the Singer 31-15 but the 96K41 has a rotary hook instead of a CB hook and it has reverse. This is pretty much the "Grandmother" of all the modern drop feed straight stitch machines. Condition is quite nice considering its age. Still has the original paint (not over painted) - the paint on flat bed is not badly worn off. Most of the original decals are present and in good condition. Machine is running very smooth, it has been cleaned and oiled. I have removed some dust and dirt and old hardened grease. But it of course is not clean as new. The machine is gear driven, this means it has no timing belt but shaft with 2 grease filled gear boxes which connects upper + lower shaft - both gear boxes have been cleaned and filled with new long life grease. So you probably don't have to touch them for the next years. The mechanism inside the head is pretty much the same as at my heavy duty Singer 133K2 but of course in smaller dimension. The foot lift is about 8-9mm so I would say it can sew at least 5-6mm thick materials. This of course is not a heavy duty machine but can sew garment type leather w/o problems. I will update this add tomorrow (hopefully) with some more details + information and maybe a Video I ask $75 + shipping and including all accessories (there are more than shown in the picture - I will make a list tomorrow) Will ship worldwide and take Paypal. Machine will be packed up carefully and well padded with Styrofoam. Please send me a PM if interested. Here are some quick pictures:

SOLD

YOU ARE SO RIGHT WITH THIS!!! This is off topic but a few years ago my dish washer (approx 10 years old) no longer cleaned the dishes - broke - crap - new one is expensive. Mechanic said: "Parts no longer available. You have to buy a new one (from him)". I could not believe it. So I took it to the garage and started simply cleaning the hoses and some internal parts and when I removed the pump and I found a broken pump wheel. I googled a lot and figured parts from other washers will work as a lot of them are internally the same with just different labels (like sewing machines). I found the parts number and bought a pump wheel kit on Ebay for 40€ (worth maybe 2€) but this kit fixed it and I saved 400€ for a new dish washer. And since then it is working flawless. That was a really good lesson. Since that day I always try to fix things by my self because a lot of mechanics are telling bull shit because they want to sell new "devices". And I had other similar experiences (converting a clutch motor from 380V to 220V f.i.). Most repairs are fairly simple and you can save A LOT OF MONEY when you can fix things by your self. And on top of that it is environmental protection when you fix things instead of throwing them away. Still off topic but do you know about "Planned Obsolescence" - google it! Back to topic. Sending the machine to Eric is probably the best thing you can do. But make sure you pack it up carefully and well protected. Buy some thick Styrofoam plates or extra protection and make sure the machine is not moving inside the package. Put Styrofoam plates to the bottom top and all 4 sides. Remember - the machine is heavy and really need this protection!!!! Eric - I´m pulling my hat - this is really really generous but you probably will get in 10 machines a week now

I´m sure it is but depends on the condition and setup. If it has a clutch motor you probably have to buy a new servo motor and (maybe) a speed reducer for nice slow sewing and some extra torque. The 111w156 (mistyped?) can sew up to 9mm thick materials and works best with 138 thread but some can even handle 207 thread (just as mine). I´m very please with mine (built in the 1950´s).

I honestly cannot imagine that this machine is not repairable and / or Nick-O-Sew sent you a broke machine!!! Take Eric´s (gottaknow) offer he is a sewing machine mechanic. You of course send the machine to someone you don´t know but since you can´t help your self this is probably the best idea - or you try another sewing machine mechanic or try to find a LW member in your era who can help you with it.

I think I have no parts you would need. Didn´t get new parts. I never have sewn with fiberglass thread but when the top thread breaks and the machine is threaded correctly then try a new needle or a needle 1 size larger. I´d also try to loosen the top and bottom tension a little bit. Do you wrap the thread around the tension pulley (the one before the thread regulator spring) 1/2 or 1 + 1/2 times? How old is the fiber glass thread? Is it probably "too old" to sew with it? I don´t know this type of thread so I honestly don´t know how and if it is aging. I really wanted to keep the 105 but I got it at about the same time as the BUSMC 6HM (this really was a lucky circumstance and I had to act fast) and I had to decide which one has to go. The BUSMC has much more punch and can sew much thicker + it has a needle feed (was great for the heavy tent repair) and I love vintage machines. So it was the 105 that had to go. It was also a question of $$ (glad it sold fast). The BUSMC is cool but I think a Singer 97 would suit better in my "sewing room". So in case I will find one I´d probably sell the BUSMC again. But I´ll restore it first and then.... well, I don´t know... I think I can´t let it go... too cool machine The 29K71 in NYC is a bargain and in nice condition too but sipping will probably cost a lot.

Great price for this machine - if I were on your side of the pond I´d buy it in a heartbeat. I paid more for restoration parts for my 29K71.

Hey Al - how is it going? Any progress with your machine? Have you tried my decals? Do you have new parts already?