Constabulary

Wrong description Darren, the 45K69 is a sole stitcher machine! We have compiled a list of subclass descriptions here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=61619&p=397944

It´s so nice to see that there are still a bunch of "cast iron" lovers out there Simran - in case your machine has the same presser foot bar like the 45K25 (for instance), then you could use the presser feet of the modern GA5-1 sewing machines or Cowboy 2500 from Toledo Sewing Machines Could you post a picture of the bobbin winder? Looks interesting....

left side of your bench!

I once bought a big bunch of manuals form all eras from collector and Living History buff and I don´t know where he got the stuff from - I don´t expect too much... Maybe they were just used as bookmarks.

A couple of years ago I found two old Dollar bills from the 1860´s in WWI era Army manual (I´m collecting US Military items). And ever since I kept them but never did some research so I wonder if someone can tell me more about them. See attached pictures

Sorry - seems I missed this. My speed reducers are custom made and have 2 ball bearings. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53689&p=351899

That seems to be an old parts number. I´d contact one of the dealers who have banners no top of this page. Or check with this guy here: http://drdanessmh.com/pfaffindustrialparts.html Thats the only I found online.

Yet I have not used 216x1 needles, I´m using 328 (214x1) needles and I honestly do not have #19 needles for my machine.The smallest size I´m using with my 133K is #24. Mine is set up for using #25 METWAR needles (old brand) but when I switch to #24 SCHMETZ needles the hook is rubbing on the needle though the needle size is smaller. Its just a tiny tiny bit but it is rubbing. Not sure if this happens with #24 METWAR needles as I don´t have them. I think it is just because of using different band needles.... The 214x1 needle system is a bit different as the shank thickness varies - the larger the size the thicker the shank. And when I remember correctly the 216x1 has the same shank diameters so it could be possible that you have to adjust the hook when you are using thicker needles but I´m honestly not 100% sure

what part is it?

Not everybody is in the comfortable situation of being able to pay any price at all times. And I´m sure you know that if you don´t run around blindfolded. "Beating down the price" is a common term or isn´t it? I consider it as an acronym for "negotiating the price". If I used the wrong term - my fault (probably). You really pay any price because of earning respect? Come on... What is a private deal? Some one has something for sale - you need what he has (or just like to have it) - you drive 100 miles - pay the money - drive away - you will probably never see him again - do you really think a private seller cares about who you are or pays you respect because you paid his price? Not really! Within a week or so he even forgot your name! Well - I think its a point of view. There is no right or wrong. You like to pay the full price for some reason - others like to "beat down a price" for some reason. You made your statements and others made theirs. Not worth making a lot of words and TOSSIK already bought a different machine...

Oh - I forgot to mention that the needle bar has two timing mark (I hope yours has them). The upper mark should be barely visible in the lowest position of the needle bar and the lower mark should be barely visible when the hook tip meets the needle scarf. But some additional fine tuning may be necessary. Picture 1 shows the lower timing mark in the lowest position of the need bar - upper mark is barely visible (you cant see it on the picture). Picture 2 shows the lower timing mark when the hook meets the needle scarf. Thats the timing my machine works fine with. Hope this helps. Too bad you areon the other side of the pond (I guess) otherwise I´d buy your machine

Thanks for your PN but I reply here. Usually you just have loosen the 2 screws on needle bar clamp and adjust the needle bar the way that the hook meets the needle scarf when the needle bar is in the upwards movement. My needle bar moves up approx. 2.5mm - 3mm before the hook tip meet the needle scarf right in the middle of the scarf. Distance between needle and flat side of the hook tip should be as close as possible. At my 133K it is approx. 0.25mm The 133K looks a bit different behind the faceplate but the needle bar should be the same. My 133K was a bit tricky to adjust properly. I just bought it last year and it needed a lot of fine tuning on the distance between hook and needle. I had to adjust some bushings and gears but now it sews very well considering that this beast was made in 1932!!!

Looks like a Pfaff 145 or 545, right? There is a screw on the lower right that holds the lever (bobbin case opener). Just loosen it and adjust the lever a little bit. Here is a pic of a 145 I guess your is a 545 with larger hook but it should look the same. Hope this helps

I don´t see the problem. Thats really comparing apples with oranges. Why not asking for a better price? It does not matter where or from whom you are buying something. I of course do not ask in the supermarket but in case of a supermarket I could choose where to buy. But when I´m buying "larger goods" or "larger volumes" I often ask for a better price and sometimes I don´t get a better price but at least something on top. Negotiation in trades is a common procedure and thousands of years old. I just can spend my money once and I always try to get the most out of it - just as most of us. This has nothing to do with respect. But I respect your opinion. Good luck!

I think it could be something like the MC-SCR system that Sailrite sells - maybe. Not sure if he (Danguman) is using an NPS but you can achieve this one stitch at a time sewing with a servo motor + speed reducer as well.

Thank you! Glad you are pleased and that this nice old thread stand has found a good new home

Oh man - TROX - you really have cut this nice Singer stand? I had a bunch of similary ones but really would like to have one or two with SINGER logos like yours. These old cast iron stands are great. I´m using 1 + 1/2 for my machien setup. BTW - you have sold the 105? May I ask how much you got for it? The Danguman has realy cool accessories - have you noticed his patcher machine setup? Check his website: http://www.danguman.com Unfortunately my Japanese is ruted

There are for sure better motors than the Jack but as TROX said - you get what you pay for. As an hobbyist I´m please with mine and don´t need all these features but if someone does he should buy a HoHsing or an EFKA. I basically needed s/t that spins my machine

Sounds like the safety clutch has released. maybe this video is helpful:

Ho-Hsing are for sure higher end quality motors and are more expensive afaik. But I´m very please with my Jack servo. I don´t really need the NPS but would have been a nice feature though. Still a huge improvement compared with the freaking high speed & energy consuming clutch motors.

yes yes - me native Chinese - no problem - do translate quick and make code list table... **Just kidding** sorry seems I got you wrong in your PN. My motor came with a poor English manual but I have a code list. E5 is an synchronizer error - thats why I said my motor does not work with NPS because of the speed reducer. I also had the E5 with the speed reducer installed. Figured I don´t need the NPS at all so I no longer care about it but here is the error code table from my manual Anyway - still the best servo motor I was able to find on this side of the pond.

uuuuh - looks nice and clean inside - SWEEEET!!! If you don´t mind please post some pictures of your machine.

Al, that was a general statement not because you have damaged something. I unfortunately never have seen a service manual for the 45K. Maybe you can take some pictures for documenting your progress. I still have a used needle bar from the 45K I once stripped but mine has neither markings nor a hole. I´d check if the the markings are aligned with parts like screws or other parts at some point so you could use them as reference or timing marks.

I'd probably replace the motor + switch entirely except you are and nostalgic buff I`d assume that the internal wiring is brittle as well. So better safe that sorry.

I know - I`m from Germany A good source for Pfaff accessories is College sewing in the UK. Where in Serbia do you live? I have been with SFOR on the Balkans in 2000-2001.