Constabulary

Ha ha - thats true... Pfaff 38´s are nice - there are at least 2 slightly different models with different zig zag adjusters as far as I know. The later type has the same adjuster like the Pfaff 138 + 238. The zig zag adjusters are often clogged up or gummed. But they brake free when you apply heat with a heat gun and soak them with WD40. Pfaff 38 and 138 pop up on Ebay fairly cheap sometimes

Hey Alex, can´t help here but seems your have been bitten by the sewing machine bug

I think Glenn meant the thread guide of the Singer 111 needle bar. Like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Singer111-Consew-225Needle-Bar-Thread-Guide-240499-2pcs-/270478405527?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ef9c4ef97 Another idea would be the Singer thread cutter, it slides over the needle bar and you can use it as a thread guide. I don´t know if these are different types for different diameter needle bars but this would be an easy fix. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-SEWING-MACHINE-221-FEATHERWEIGHT-THREAD-CUTTER-SIMANCO-/361176831515?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5417d1161b

Maybe there is something wrong with the "oil piles" coming from the pump and the oil is spilling somewhere - don´t know. I´d contact Leather Machine Co since they are Cobra dealers http://www.leathermachineco.com/

I have removed the original clutch system since it is not complete so this no longer is an option. Sure, the clutch of a clutch motor disconnects but servos have no clutch. I worry that the huge + heavy wheel on the back of the machine stand would probably kill the servo. So leaving it out and adding a speed reducer and / or adding larger pulley on the main shaft is the better option I think. I noticed some Luberto´s had nice large pulleys. BTW - have you received my PM?

Yet not much progress I only have painted the cleaned parts... I know it´s an unusual color but on the picture it appears more green but its actually more olive. It looks live much better. Mine originally had a motor with separated clutch but no way to find the missing clutch parts for this special clutch system. So I wonder if someone has motorized his Pearson / BUSMC #6 with either a regular clutch motor or even a servo motor. If so - where have you put the motor? I wonder if the motor brake on a servo motor / clutch motor is strong enough to stop the rotation of the massive wheel on the backside of the stand. I of course could leave this out and go directly to the pulley on the main shaft but the huge wheel would give the needle much more punch. Motorizing the machine is just an idea. Most likely I will hand crank or treadle it but I´d like to know if others have motors on their machines.

Stewey - if you don´t mid please post some pictures of your machines. There are a bunch of "45K lovers" who always like to see variants and different accessories.

On the German Fortuna Website I have found this representative in NJ - not too far away from NYC I´d say. Bio-Med Machines LLC 4 Mockingbird Road Hackettstown, NJ 07840 USA Herr Michael Taenzer Tel: +1 908 269 5569 Mobil: +1 908 914 5144 mtaenzer@bio-medmachines.com

I once uploaded 2 nice & clear manulas in this thread maybe they are helpful for you. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57862

try to find a weaker spring or cut some coils from the original spring.

oh man - when I see all this it once again confirms my opinion that older machines are often enough the better choice - at least for my purposes. @Venator have you ever contacted Nick-O-Sew to tell them what is going on with the machine you bought from them?

I have this Tandy / Craftool #8372 Masonic Leather Stamp from the 1980´s asking $50 + $7 for Worldwide registered shipping. Included for free is the #8400 Leather Stamp "HANDCRAFTED BY". Sold as set only. Please send a PM if interested. I take paypal.

I know it´s an old thread but are you still looking for this Masonic stamp?

college sewing in the UK has a lot of 29K parts but I´m not sure if the rollers are the same but I assume they are. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/Singer29K,29USewingMachineParts

10-12 spi sounds like a very very worn machine. It is most likely the bell crank lever you have to replace and probably the feed motion ring. maybe some other parts too. Maybe this thread is helpful for you. I have restored a 29K1 last year: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=60554&hl=%20barn%20%20find

I´d also love being in your shop when nobody is there. I´m sure I will discoverer some interesting things.

Pfaff 335, 345 and Adler 69, 169, have all reverse. Consew 227 came with and without reverse (the ones marked with "R" have reverse). The Singer 153 is the only one (afaik) that never came with reverse. Then SEIKO, JUKI and so forth also made a similar model (don´t know all the model names). These are the most common ones you´ll find in used condition. Most machines have subclasses the subclass describes features that certain machines have. There are of course many other brands (most are Chinese made clones of the Consew 227R) like Techsew 2700, Cowboy CB227R, Artisan... Generally spoken non of the above machines are bad - it of course depends on their condition and how the machine is set up. Buying a used machine can be a gamble but you also can have a lot of luck. I have bought all my machines used and all are working very well but they all needed some TLC Well, there is a "Poor Mans Reverse" for machine w/o reverse sewing function. Just turn the work around and sew backwards. Or lift the foot and pull the work forward one or two stitches lower the needle into a hole one or two stitches back and sew forward again. But a machine with reverse is much more comfortable. Keep in mind that you sometimes have sewing situations where you can´t turn around the work f.i. when sewing close to hardware or so.

I´m about getting 2 new (hopefully original) screws. If they don´t work I´ll tap a 1 size bigger metric thread.

I can´t see what is happening but when other threads are working I´d say the problem is this particular therad - maybe too old. I would simply not use it anylonger.

The feed dogs usually have an oval hole so you have to remove the shuttle race and hook the then you have access to the feed dog screw. Loosen the screw and lower the feed dog a bit.

Shouldn´t be too difficult to adjust it. Or is it probably gummed up or maybe secured with a set screw (you never know). I´m sure one of the dealer who have banners on top of the page can help you with the feet. My source would probably be College Sewing in the UK but I live on the other side of the pond.

Can`t see it good enough - you probably have to replace the presser foot bar to install the roller foot bar but before you swing the screwdriver check if the bar has the same dimensions - look s pretty long. Maybe it belonged to an other machine. You have another roller foot but I can't see what it exactly is. Maybe the pictures of this auction will help: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolling-Needle-Feed-Machine-Singer-110w125-Tag-3695-/271543596201

You can also mark the Videos on Youtube as "Not Listed". I always do that. But I honestly find Youtube not very comfortable to use. But thats probably just me. Lots of other Youtube punks seems to like it.

This is a pre 1945 mfg Singers made in Wittenberge, Prussia. This is the first 111WD I have ever seen. I only own a spare parts box with 111WD marking. These are on of the few almost unknown Singers (from my experience). The only source I know is a Singer (Prussia) mfg. list on the VERITAS website: http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/naehmaschinenwerk_produktionsprofil/seite02_singer.htm I guess the WD ID´s the different stitch length adjuster which is very unusual for the 111 type machines. Too bad the adjuster knob is missing. I think it´s almost impossible to replace it with an original part. I could only imagine replacing it with a Pfaff adjuster but nut sure if this will fit at all. Could you post some close ups of the hook era?

This "oil pump thing" is really something one should know of and keep in mind when hunting for a new / used sewing machine!!! As Uwe said "the right oil topic" will probably cause some fighting. This is probably the same as "the correct olive drab paint" when you are involved in military vehicles. Others go crazy when it comes to automotive motor oils... WTF Anyway - would be nice to read other oil opinions. My all time favorite oil for all oiling purposes is the full synthetic S-761 weapons oil. S-761 is the NATO code not the product name. It is well penetrating has good cleaning effect and is well preserving too. I have used this stuff for years when I was in the Army. Since then I always have a few liters on my shelf. I´m not a technician but my simple mind makes me think what keeps the heavy machine guns firing can´t be bad for my vintage sewing machines. Maybe a dumb reason but this stuff just works very well. http://www.etsint.de/en/produkte/cleaning/military/weaponoil-967