Jump to content

Constabulary

Members
  • Posts

    5,629
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Constabulary

  1. how about modifying a leather skiving machine or something like this:
  2. Can someone ID this machine?
  3. I would assume a bag closing machine
  4. I have this one - looks close but I´m not sure: Head diameter: 12mm Length w/o head: 27mm Thread length: 9.5mm Thread diam.: approx 6.6mm Shaft diam.: 8mm What do you think?
  5. what parts do you actually need - do you have a parts list or can show me pictures of the parts. I once disassembled a 45K1with a cracked housing and still have some parts floating around but I have not assorted them so I have to see pictures. Parts number alone do not help.
  6. I once have disassembled a motor like this for changing the clutch disc and as far as I remember there is a coil spring in the lower part of the motor. It puts pretension on the "Vielzahnachse". I remember when I reassembled it I had to turn the entire clutch bell 1 or 2 turns so the spring has needed pretension (if you know what I mean). I don´t recall it 100% but maybe you can turn around the coil spring and then rotate the the clutch bell to the other direction... I can´t explain very well it I have to have the motor in from of me....
  7. Buy a one piece long lever instead http://www.ebay.de/itm/CONSEW-227-CYL-W-F-FOOT-LIFT-LIFTING-LEVER-/120926496799?hash=item1c27c7e81f
  8. I have an ADLER 37 with top + bottom feed in a very good used condition. It has a treadle base but a motor can be added w/o problems. The Adler 37 is more or less a "clone" of the Singer 31-19 or 31-47 so you still can find parts for it f.i. at College Sewing in the UK or Ebay.com. Bobbin case, presser feet, tension assembly and so forth are still available. This machine has reverse mechanism and the max. stitch length is 5mm. It has no timing belt, it is "rod driven" so you don´t have to worry about a melted timing belt after an atomic explosion or so. I would sell just the head if you can find a table / base for it locally. That would make shipping much cheaper. I live in Germany so no custom fees or taxes. Maybe you are interested in either the head or the whole machine setup.
  9. I have no 563 but a Singer 111 which is very similar. Are you sure the dial shows a 1 and not 10, 11 or higher number? 1 would mean 1 stitch per inch and that is not possible with this machine.
  10. You could try to buy a new slide plate from a friendly sewing machine dealer either in your area or at one of the dealers who have banners on top of this page and ask them if they could tap some thread in the correct postion. Can´t be too expensive. The plates are just $12 or so on Ebay - maybe a bit more at a local dealer. Or buy a flip down edge guide and try to attach the binder attachment to it. I have heard people did that but I persoanly have not tried it. A flip down guide is very usefull anyway.
  11. THIS SHUTTLE HOOK IS SOLD all other parts are still available
  12. For me is it more comfortable to sew on a flat bed machine but everybody has his own preferences. The 545 machine is for sure some decades old but that does not mean it is totally worn off. It for sure has seen a lot of use but it depends on the price and if if full functional or not. The 545 has a large hook / bobbin so thats a good thing anyway. I would not rate the machine by just 1 poor picture. I´d check out the machine and test sew it with the materials you are going to sew with it. I never have bought a new machine and all my machines are working fine. Buying a used machine of course can be a gamble but I personally I never had bigger problems with used sewing machines - even the oldest from 1932 is running very smooth.
  13. The 105-27 looks like a 105-8. Maybe it has some special features the 105-8 has not. I once have have removed the "walking foot" mechanism on a 105-8 because it was too nosy. I installed a regular straigt presser foot bar. Advantage is he now can use Singer 45K clone feet. Do you know your machine has this "wallking foot thing" mechanism and how it works? You can "turn it on" by removing a single screw. Well, it´s not a real walking foot but the foot moves with the material and flips back then.
  14. Need some coins for spare parts so I have this used shuttle + bobbin for sale. Shuttle has no tension spring so I think $200 + shipping for the two parts is fair considering that complete shuttles are approx. $600. See pictures for condition. Tension spring and screws are most likely available from forum member SINGERMANIA in Australia - just check with him. I take Paypal and will ship worldwide. Some pictures
  15. Finally found the time to "electrolyze" the stand, paint it and reassemble it. Someone else said restore the stand first so you have a base to work on the machine. That indeed was a good idea. The paint looks live much better. Some pictures
  16. PARTS ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE
  17. Lots of money for this machine. Is it from a dealer or private person? Anyway - I think it is way too expensive. W/O knowing the marked on your end but I´d say when you pay $1300 it is still NOT a bargain.
  18. Hey Kohlrausch - just noticed your from Hannover (Lowersaxony) - thats approx.100km south of me. I´m about in the middle of BREMEN + HANNOVER Welcome to the jungle!
  19. Agree with Gregg - I have tried a few needle brands and from my experience Groz Beckert and Schmetz are very equal and I never had issued with either brand (standard needles no titanium coating or so). I use GB 135x17 (size 120 to 160) in my Singer 111G156, 307G2 and 29K71 and Sys. 328 Schmetz and old brand METWAR + Leo Lammertz (afaik both are now GB) im my Singer 133K3. But I had issued with odd brands like "white egret" or other junkie brands I don´t even remember- I would never buy them again. I still have a box of orig. Singer 135x17 in size 110 and they also work well even at high speed (zig zag repairs). You usually can´t go wrong with Schmetz or Groz Beckert - both are top needles.
  20. Is it an older or new machine? Is it significant or just a tiny bit? If it just a tiny bit and it is an older machine it could be that the little wedge "thing" (don´t know the parts name) behind the stitch lenght regulartor is a bit worn.
  21. remove the needle plate and lift the small lever grab it and turn the boobin case little bit and sooner or later you have it. Good chance to remove lint or dirt under the needle plate when you see some
  22. You don´t give much information and no pictures so we can just guess. Due to the number I´d guess it is a Juki 563 just relabeled for Chandler (they also relabeled Adler machines and maybe others too). Price depends on the over all condition, how it is set up, if it comes with accessories or not and what kind motor is installed. Not sure if all Juki 563 had a reverse mechanism so I´d check that. W/O knowing any of the details I´d say between $400 and $800 when bought from private. Check how the condition of the timing belt is. Replacing it is a bit of a pain but it is doable. And test sew the machine with materials you are going to sew regularly. Juki 563´s are for sure a very good machines for sewing materials up to 8-10mm max.
  23. Or download the Consew 227R-2 Parts Book and Instruction Manual here
×
×
  • Create New...