Constabulary

Yet I haven´t worked with either machine so I don´t know much about the internal technical details. I know there are dedicated synchronized binder machines of either type. My question is if it possible to convert lets say an Adler 69-373 (or Pfaff 335 equivalent) into synchronized binder machine? I mean do all the machines factorywise already have the synchronizer mechanism thats is probably just covered by the arm cover? Or with other words - can I remove the plain arm cover and replace it with this cover https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/KHB69-ARM-COVER-FOR-BINDING-ADLER-69 and have a synchronized binder machine? I just don´t know and don´t want to waste money.

both shuttles and oil cup sold. I have left the 2 needles plates

You say a thread brake throws it out of time right? So I would guess either the safety clutch has released or some set screws on the hook driving gears are probably not tightened up properly. If it has the same safety clutch like the Consew 227 or Singer 111 models this Video should give you an idea: Do you have a manual for your machine? Maybe this one helps, it´s from an Consew 227R2 which is about the same as your 2700 I think. http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/PartsBooks/227R-2.pdf

How about a table like this. This is an Adler 105 I once have restored

Grüße nach Frankfurt! Lucky you - I never have found a 133K8 in Germany, my only luck was the 133K3. Glad you found the manual useful. You can use Sys. 328 (214x1 / 214x2) needles. But you can but the original 216 needles from CollegeSewing in the UK https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=216 refine the search in the NEEDLES category. What needles size are you looking for - I may have a few extra.

I may have a few from my restoration. All screws have numbers on the head, can you post the numbers please. I´m almost done with my restoration, maybe you are interested in it http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=62817&page=1 I´d also like to see some pictures of your machine if you don´t mind.

Well, the few straps I probably would cut with it are worth buying cut to my specs so I think selling it is probably the better deal for me. Some one interested in it $200 incl worldwide shipping? Send me PM.

Holy smokes - do they really cost about $400? I had no Idea Haven´t figured the maker yet but they all look pretty much identlical. Some have more steel parts but most are about the same style. errr -someone interested in it?

I got this strap cutter in a lot I bought from an old upholstery shop that went out of business. It´s the only leather tool in that lot but I don´t know much about the vinatge tools so I wonder if someone knows the maker. Some pictures

sorry I don´t know this machine and google does not show me pictures of it or I broke the internet

very basic information but I´d decrease the bottom tension or try a 1 or 2 sizes thicker needle

I´ve recently learned that unobtanium (thanks Wiz - always good to learn from the wise) is the material they are using for aluminum magnets. It even holds copper and brass. But it only works on the norther hemisphere if the magnet contain left turning unobtanium bacterias. I think you need the right turning bacterias on your end.

Maybe not new to everyone but at least to me. Yesterday I bought some stuff from and old upholstery shop that went out of business a while ago. One thing that came in the lot was this magnetic bobbin holder - pretty neat idea. They are still on the market as I figured. But if you have an electric router this could be a nice DIY. Just wanted to share this.

A few pictures would be good. Maybe the machine is badly worn - the 29-4 are very very old machines. Have you threaded the machine correctly? I´d try to adjust the spring of the shuttle carrier a little bit the way it barely touches the shuttle hook. Or maybe the shuttle hook tip is worn and you have to replace it. You also can adjust the needle holder a little bit, when you loosen the screw that attaches the needle holder to the needle bar you can move the holder a bit sideways.

pulled the bobbin winder parts off the electrolysis bath today, wire brushed them and gave them a new paint job. Still have to clean and attach some smaller parts but thats how it looks atm.

Rigth - I just thought you probably don´t know... Sorry but I can`t help. Good luck with this machine - it´s a nice one!

I don´t think a machine is in this condition is much worn. I have seen worst. Do you know how to adjust the stitch lenght?

I´m thinking about motorizing my restored #6HM but I´d like to see how others have motorized their #6 machines with either a clutch motor or servo motor - not the original motor setup as this is not an option for me. I somehow find it a bit difficult so I´d like to see other peoples solutions.

Agree with Gump - the machines should have walking foot / compound feed. I copied my answer from an other thread: If you are looking for a used flat bed machine check for Adler (or Chandler) 67 / 167, Singer 111w155 / 111w156, Singer 211 (don´t know all the sub classes), Pfaff 145 / 545, Juki 562 / 563, Consew 226, Consew 206 just to mention some of the most common models. Some older machines may not have a reveres function. if you are unsure check with one of the dealers who have banners on top of this site. Most have new and used machines. They may cost more but you are buying serviced machines and you have support from the dealer. I think www.Keysew.com is too not far away from you

Tool belt sounds like you would sew up to 6mm or maybe 8mm, right? If so then basically I´d say one of the Singer 111 class machines with triple feed / compound feed would meet your requirements. There are many many models on the market. If you are looking for a used flat bed machine check for Adler (or Chandler) 67 / 167, Singer 111w155 / 111w156, Singer 211 (don´t know all the sub classes), Pfaff 145 / 545, Juki 562 / 563, Consew 226, Consew 206 just to mention some of the most common models. Some older machines may not have a reveres function. if you are unsure check with one of the dealers who have banners on top of this site. Most have new and used machines. They may cost more but you are buying serviced machines and you have support from the dealer.

usually 138 thread but some are setup to run 207 - just try it. I think the older types have a 5 SPI and the later models may have 4 SPI or even longer. Same with the max thickens - usually 8-10mm max. but later types may have more foot lift. There are too many models and clones and you cannot know the specs from all of them.

I really like that! It´s sad the a lot of knowledge about old sewing machines is gone but there are still some folks that keep the flag waving For me its a pleasure to keep these old workhorses alive. One comes after another - maybe one day when you have setup the machines you will have fun producing some useful things with them If you don´t mind I´d like to see some pictures of the machines you have.

I guess you mean when you step off the pedal the motor is still running and that spins the machine right? Check if the plug of the needle positioner sensor is properly plugged in. I remember when I installed my 1st servo I had a similar problem. Next thing I´d check it the sensor / magnet lever alignment in the accelerator unit - you probably have to adjust the internal lever a little bit.

Either type has a thread. Here is a picture of the later type. The earlier type is just a screw with counter thumb nut (kind of). https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82166-THREAD-TAKE-UP-ADJ-ASSY-SINGER-29K MAYBE your 29K58 has a spare part from an Adler 30 - not sure if that fits at all but the Adler regulators have no thread. Post some pictures of your machine please.

Check this thread - seems it´s the same problem you have: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=65715&hl=%2Bconsew+%2B225