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Constabulary

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Everything posted by Constabulary

  1. Kayser is an old German brand and AFAIK some of the Kayser machines are clones of Singer machines, maybe some even came from the Singer factory in Wittenberge, Prusia and have been relabeled. So I would guess Singer 18 is the exact same machine but I´m not 100% sure. We had too many different makers in Germany. Some pictures of your machine would be nice.
  2. On 29K71´s - "the real ones" - you can see and access the screw from the hole when the arm is almost down on the front end. But you may need a flash light to see it and you have to loosen a nut on the opposite side first. I don´t know the Chinese variants but maybe some (I don´t know) don´t have this timing screw. I remember I have restored an 29K1 last Christmas and it also had no timing screw but it worked w/o it. Regarding V-Belt grove - do you mean the detectable hand wheel or the fixed pulley on the right? Usually the hand wheel has no grove but maybe the rubber wheel of the bobbin winder is meant to run in it.
  3. I would remove all that fancy stuff. It probably has a reason why this machine no longer is running in an industrial environment (where it for sure comes from). Probably no reason but usually a normal leather worker does not need these fancy things. But If you like these features keep them and rebuilt them if necessary, why not. But I personally don´t need that stuff. Too many things that could cause trouble and costs.
  4. Just wanted to have it mentioned because usually these machines have a lock lever on the adjuster. Try a manual from an Adler 67or 167 flat bed machine or the 168, 268 post bed amchines, they are updated models but pretty much the same technology. https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/downloads/manuals.html
  5. when I look close at your Adler 68 it seems as if the lock lever for the stich lenght adjuster is missing or is it just because of the angle?
  6. usually 3 screws and often enough the servos are using the same screw holes so not very difficult. You have to adjust the new Servo in hight and sideways the way the pulley has about the same position as the one from the clutch motor. But thats work you have to do anyway if you do not like the clutch motor.
  7. Oh - holly crap - I did not know. I only knew Chandler sold the Adler 67 as Chandler 67 so I assumed the C-267 would be the Adler 267. I always learn something new every day! Thanks for the info Gregg!
  8. The Adler 67 looks nice - does it come with clutch motor or servo motor? The Highlead most likely has a much larger bobbin and a longer stitch lenght. Other than that I´m sure the Adler will serve you well.
  9. I usually would agree when we atalk about "common" industrial machines but I think these extremely heavy machines with quite aggressive feed dogs are a different class I´d say. But have to admit I have no experience with them.
  10. External servo motors for sewing machine will work with 99% - 100% of the V-belt driven industrial sewing machines. Not sure how much import taxes and custom fees you have to pay for the motor but alternatively you could buy a servo on Ebay Germany or from College sewing in the UK to prevent import taxes and custom fees. And they run on 220V 1 phase. $ : € exchange rate is quite bad atm so I´d check the 2 alternatives. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/SewingMachineServoMotors http://www.ebay.de/sch/Textilgewerbe-Schneiderei-/45033/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=servo+motor&_sop=15
  11. Look for an Adler 267 Manual - should be the same machine
  12. I guess the needle bar is the same as for the Adler 105 (I guess) so probably a needle bar of an Singer 45K would fit as well. The 45K needle bars are 9.5mm / 0.375" in diameter and 26.2cm / 10.31" long. Maybe that will help you a little bit when you want to go from 2 to 1 needle. I also have a Singer 45K needle bar some edge guides and so forth - just for the case you need something
  13. I have a couple of feet for the Single needle Adler 20. If you are interested send me a PM
  14. Thats true - the badges are really nice. Thats one reason I´m still hoping to find and older Consew 227R over here. Now that I know Seiko had "cool badges" too I`ll probably add one to my want list. Stupid I know but I love the vintage stuff. Thumbs up TinkerTailor
  15. Thats a big difference. If the reverse if set up well and stitches go in the same hole as forward it´s a nice feature but on the other hand $750 is a lot of money. Your decision. For $750 you can buy a lot of other tools for your business.
  16. Both files are online again Service Manual and Parts List for Singer 29K71, 29K72 and 29K73 Instruction Manual Singer 29K58, 29K62
  17. I agree - AMAN serafil, synton and rasant is what I like best
  18. If the Seiko has reverse I´d buy the Seiko, 2nd the Techsew and last the Pfaff 335. Pfaff 335 at last because accessories and parts are more expensive and I like the drop in bobbin feature of the other 2 other and I think the horizontal hook can handle thicker thread. My 2 cents.
  19. the darker one has no reverse!
  20. I know - manuals folder has been deleted by mistake - sorry folks. Please end me your email by PM and I will send you the files
  21. Ole South - I agree the Chinese stitcher look dead ugly and (for me) this would be a reason not to buy them but seems they are sewing and thats what they should do. If you just consider them just as a tool for a certain job then why not. But for me the esthetic aspect is quite important. I would not buy a machine when it is dead ugly. I mean you probably have to look at this big piece of metal everyday and you always think - god damn are you ugly. This has nothing to do with it´s performance. Regarding the 29K´s - some pictures would be nice. I also have restored a 29K71 and it turned out very well. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56079&hl=29k71 The big advantage of the 29K70´s subclass machines is that you can find almost every single part for them - probably not unimportant for the future. But it of course depends on the total price incl. new parts you have to pay. But most patchers don´t have a motors so thats something I´d consider it as optional. I think patchers are more expensive in the US tan on my side of the pond but when you can get a well working 29K71 with servo motor and stand or table for about $500 - why not. When I brake down what I have paid for mine incl. restoration I think I come up with approx. 220€ or a bit more w/o stand and motor. For me the fact that I can always can find parts for this machine was quite important. I could have bought other patchers but the 29K71 was the one I always wanted so for me it was worth every cent. Mine sews 138 thread with a 140 / 22 needle without problems.
  22. Thanks Folks! @ Pcox I think they are a bit too short. Better too long than too short. @Ole South I think that would have been the closest but I already have ordered a Class 31 and Class 17 bar last week but if they don´t work the next I´ll try will be the Class 78 bar. Too bad you have not replied earlier but no problem at all Thanks anyway!
  23. I´d buy a new set. Why messing around with glue, these Singer 111 type feet cost just a few bucks.
  24. what particular screws are you looking for?
  25. "U" Suffix machine were made in Japan AFAIK but thats nothing bad. The17 Class machines have very tiny bobbins approx the size of the 29K bobbins. I´d rather consider them as light duty machines. Though the 17 Class I once owned (from the early 1900´s) was able to sew with 138 thread but 69 thread is what it works best with I´d say. Many of them came with roller feet. Price depends on condition, accessories, motor and so forth, some pictures would be nice to see.
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