Constabulary

Good clear pictures of your machine situation are always helpful. You never know if someone sees something you have overlooked or we can compare how it is set up. Usually a needles brakes when it hits the needle plate. Your needle plate has 2 different sizes of needle holes, try the larger hole and try to center the needle or set it a bit more left instead of centered.There are also 2 different needle plates available one with smaller and one with larger holes (both have 2 different size needles holes for different size needles) No matter what I sew I`m always using the the larger hole. The plates work for 29K71 and 29K73 and their clones. 82234 NEEDLE PLATE MEDIUM / COARSE SINGER 29K-71 82235 NEEDLE PLATE FINE / MEDIUM SINGER 29K-71 or the needles brake when it hits the hook or the hook grabs the needle and brakes it (I heard of the 2nd issue but never have seen it happen). In both cases I´d say the machine is not well timed. Check the 29K71 / 72 manual for timing your machine.

@ hyttogpine - don´t worry I sometimes even don`t understand what some native English speaking member are writing - must be the difference in grammar. And I´m also sure my grammar is not always correct, too. We all are learning something here - hopefully.

Decades old oil and dirt is tough to clean some times. Maybe try washing soda solution and a cloth rag

Alex, don`t you have the RECOLOR stuff form your 29K project?

Well Daren, thats not helpful at all, you should at least let him know what needle systems you are talking about or post a link to the thread you mentioned. This is like "I know what you need but I don´t tell you"

Sorry - I live in the metric part of the world. I have not noticed the 5/8 before - thats approx 1.6cm and probably a bit too much for the 105-64. I think you need a heavier machine. My bad.

The 105-64 is an excellent needle feed machine and will serve you well for your sheath projects. The 105 series machines are build like tanks and sill last many decades when well serviced and oiled.

Dikman - No I don´t. I shouldn't have mentioned the shipping from Germany this probably was misleading. I order most parts in the UK or USA because they are cheaper. I meant that you should probably oder some extra parts so the relation to the shipping costs is better. Parts I don´t find at College Sewing UK I buy form Sharp Sewing they usually charges $8 -$10 for shipping. http://stores.ebay.de/SHARP-SEWING-SUPPLIES or ngosew http://stores.ebay.com/NgoSew-Sewing-Parts-Company?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 or jimtalyinc http://stores.ebay.com/jimtalyinc?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Ebay is just easier for me - no phone calls no shop registrations...

Dikman - shipping for spare parts is not necessarily expensive. F.I small packages up to 500 Gramms can be shipped from Germany for approx $7 US worldwide. College Sewings cheapest rate is 8.50 GBP afaik When I order spare parts from the UK or the US it is more expensive but I alway buy some extra screws, springs, needles, bobbins or what ever I think could be useful for one of my machines. You never know - it sucks when you loose a tiny screw while servicing a machine and have to order a 0.50 cent screw and pay $8 for shipping. Thats what I have in my 111 type parts box - I may have mixed up some screws but I at least know that I have a replacement for most of the easy to loose screws. It´s also nice to have when you find a new (old) machine with missing small parts / screws or so.

A quick example - these 2 hooks assemblies look very identical at a first glance. Even the bobbin case is interchangeable but hey have different hooks. The hook tip on the left hook is 1mm higher. You will probably notice the difference.

Okay sorry - got it wrong. I only could imagine that the hook needs to be repositioned on the shaft. Maybe you have received a wrong hook. Some times there are just small details that differ. Please post some pictures of the hook / needle situation or maybe a short youtube video.

If it is this one: http://memphis.craigslist.org/for/5351178394.html it seems to be a garment sewing machine with top and bottom feed. As far as I can tell from the small and not very detailed pictures This is not the sort of walking foot (compound feed or triple feed) a leather worker wants.

If I got you right you expect the needle bar to stop at a certain point when it is rising? Needle bars do not stop on rotary hook machine they are constantly moving up and down. On patcher sewing machines like 29K or 30-1 and some post bed machines like the 34K the needle bars stops for forming a loop with the top thread but this is not the case at the 206RB.

Maybe you should add a video showing the machine in use. This may attract some potential customers. Just an idea.

Just found this on Ebay. I thought maybe some of you vintage sewing machine enthusiast could like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Vintage-PFAFF-Sewing-Machine-Lighted-Advertising-Sign-25-x-12-by-Lackner-/381492267199

This machine most likely left the factory as Adler 20 - BUT - companies like Pfaff, Phoenix or Koehler sold Adler built machines like the 30-1, 30-15 (and maybe others) under their brand own name. What they often did is they just added the digit 1 on the name plate (or replaced the name plate). F.i. the relabeled Pfaff machines usually have addition INDUSTRIA and the Adler 30-1 was sold as PFAFF INDUSTRIA and the name plate states 130-1. Maybe it´s the same with your machine.

I guess it is a relabeled sewing machine. Some pictures would probably help to ID the machine

Just as you prefer. As far as I remember since the 29K51 the Singer 29K series have this adjustable foot hight feature (the 2 nuts). My 29K71 (pretty much the same machine but short arm) is NOT touching the needle plate. Advantage is when you "accidentally" drop the foot it will not bang on the needles plate. As long as it is feeding well I´d leave it as is but you probably have to make an adjustment when you want to sew thinner materials.

I´m also a "Machine Switcher" I run a 111G156, a 307G2 and also a 34K in the same table. That saves a lot of space.

There are dozens of ideas for speed reducers: https://www.google.de/search?q=speed+reducer+Site:+www.Leatehrworker.net&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=4N92VraQCsXAPImuvaAP#q=speed+reducer+site:leatherworker.net

Don´t rely on the seller. The fact that the hand wheel is spinning and the needle bar goes up and down does not mean that the machine is sewing. Test sew it by your self or let at least the seller sew something before you pay him!

Though it looks a bit nasty I would have bought it too. The upper thread guide is broken off. 111w parts are no problem. New tension units cost about $15 on Ebay and thread guide maybe $5. The timing belt could be a bit dry so I´d probably replace it. I would also switch to a different needle plate and feed dog. My 111G156 was not much better when I have found it and it is working very very well now. You could make a speed reducer from the old clutch system.

For those who care - here are some more pictures of this machine: http://olx.ro/oferta/masina-cusut-cizmarie-ID4LWiy.html I would not pay 250€ w/o knowing it is functional. Personally and without knowing what going on with this machine I´d not pay more than 100€ but only when I have some extra play money and just for the fun to find out whats up with this machine.The mechanical system it self on this machine will most likely never brake but you never know for sure. But IF something brakes (especially the shuttle hook) the machine is dead because of the spare parts situation. Are you able to post some pictures of the shuttle hook?

Hard to tell when it has no plaque or decal. Robert Kiehle (ROKILEI) could be but also could be a Kochs / Adler, Atlas, Drossner, Mansfeld. You sometimes find similar looking machines with just a different name on it. Well, it´s worth what people are willing to pay but don´t expect big $$$. Value is higher when full functional and comes with some extra accessories and you will get even more when it comes with the original manual. Some old school leather workers may be interested or cast iron idiots like me. But when is is not working it more or less has just decorative value. There are always some nuts people out there who think the older a machine is the more value it has. Thats why you often find 100 years old machines for 700€ or so on Ebay. But watch them - they most likely will never sell. If parts are no longer available you can use the machine until something brakes and then you can keep it as boat anchor or decorative piece or you find someone who has a similar machine and he buys it for spare parts but you probably have to store if for decades until a 2nd machine shows up - somewhere. Most sewing machine collectors are just collecting domestic machine heads w/o table because most have space problems storing dozens of big industrial machines incl. the table (thats probably why you get some good $$ for the small Singer Featherweight). Well, except you live in Australia and your LW Member name is Singermania then you probably have enough space!!!

Tell your wife that you never can have enough cast iron. This must be a very very early compound feed Machine. The feed dog looks like one from a needle feed machine. Looking for ward to seeing some more pictures.