Constabulary

I´ve recently learned that unobtanium (thanks Wiz - always good to learn from the wise) is the material they are using for aluminum magnets. It even holds copper and brass. But it only works on the norther hemisphere if the magnet contain left turning unobtanium bacterias. I think you need the right turning bacterias on your end.

Maybe not new to everyone but at least to me. Yesterday I bought some stuff from and old upholstery shop that went out of business a while ago. One thing that came in the lot was this magnetic bobbin holder - pretty neat idea. They are still on the market as I figured. But if you have an electric router this could be a nice DIY. Just wanted to share this.

A few pictures would be good. Maybe the machine is badly worn - the 29-4 are very very old machines. Have you threaded the machine correctly? I´d try to adjust the spring of the shuttle carrier a little bit the way it barely touches the shuttle hook. Or maybe the shuttle hook tip is worn and you have to replace it. You also can adjust the needle holder a little bit, when you loosen the screw that attaches the needle holder to the needle bar you can move the holder a bit sideways.

pulled the bobbin winder parts off the electrolysis bath today, wire brushed them and gave them a new paint job. Still have to clean and attach some smaller parts but thats how it looks atm.

Rigth - I just thought you probably don´t know... Sorry but I can`t help. Good luck with this machine - it´s a nice one!

I don´t think a machine is in this condition is much worn. I have seen worst. Do you know how to adjust the stitch lenght?

I´m thinking about motorizing my restored #6HM but I´d like to see how others have motorized their #6 machines with either a clutch motor or servo motor - not the original motor setup as this is not an option for me. I somehow find it a bit difficult so I´d like to see other peoples solutions.

Agree with Gump - the machines should have walking foot / compound feed. I copied my answer from an other thread: If you are looking for a used flat bed machine check for Adler (or Chandler) 67 / 167, Singer 111w155 / 111w156, Singer 211 (don´t know all the sub classes), Pfaff 145 / 545, Juki 562 / 563, Consew 226, Consew 206 just to mention some of the most common models. Some older machines may not have a reveres function. if you are unsure check with one of the dealers who have banners on top of this site. Most have new and used machines. They may cost more but you are buying serviced machines and you have support from the dealer. I think www.Keysew.com is too not far away from you

Tool belt sounds like you would sew up to 6mm or maybe 8mm, right? If so then basically I´d say one of the Singer 111 class machines with triple feed / compound feed would meet your requirements. There are many many models on the market. If you are looking for a used flat bed machine check for Adler (or Chandler) 67 / 167, Singer 111w155 / 111w156, Singer 211 (don´t know all the sub classes), Pfaff 145 / 545, Juki 562 / 563, Consew 226, Consew 206 just to mention some of the most common models. Some older machines may not have a reveres function. if you are unsure check with one of the dealers who have banners on top of this site. Most have new and used machines. They may cost more but you are buying serviced machines and you have support from the dealer.

usually 138 thread but some are setup to run 207 - just try it. I think the older types have a 5 SPI and the later models may have 4 SPI or even longer. Same with the max thickens - usually 8-10mm max. but later types may have more foot lift. There are too many models and clones and you cannot know the specs from all of them.

I really like that! It´s sad the a lot of knowledge about old sewing machines is gone but there are still some folks that keep the flag waving For me its a pleasure to keep these old workhorses alive. One comes after another - maybe one day when you have setup the machines you will have fun producing some useful things with them If you don´t mind I´d like to see some pictures of the machines you have.

I guess you mean when you step off the pedal the motor is still running and that spins the machine right? Check if the plug of the needle positioner sensor is properly plugged in. I remember when I installed my 1st servo I had a similar problem. Next thing I´d check it the sensor / magnet lever alignment in the accelerator unit - you probably have to adjust the internal lever a little bit.

Either type has a thread. Here is a picture of the later type. The earlier type is just a screw with counter thumb nut (kind of). https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82166-THREAD-TAKE-UP-ADJ-ASSY-SINGER-29K MAYBE your 29K58 has a spare part from an Adler 30 - not sure if that fits at all but the Adler regulators have no thread. Post some pictures of your machine please.

Check this thread - seems it´s the same problem you have: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=65715&hl=%2Bconsew+%2B225

Try a different needles system, maybe 135x17 and adjust the needles bar accordingly. I have setup a couple of machines with 135x17 needles, f.i. Singer 17, Pfaff 145, Singer 96K. And I´m just refurbishing a Singer 34K S.V. 5 post bed machine and if possible I will set it up to 135x17 as well. I´m using 135x17 needles when ever possible. Advantage is you don´t have to stock different needles system in various sizes and tips.

Best way to find out is comparing part numbers + parts lists. 29K´s have a lot of subclasses and some just have minor differences. I would assume that most 29K71 parts will work for the 29K58 as well but cannot promise. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=64040&p=428550

I absolutely agree!!!! Lots of progress today - cleaned all the parts and painted most of them but I left some unpainted just for optical reasons (I like it). Hell, this thing has a million parts and screws. I made some chronological mistakes while assembling everything but finally everything fits together and machines spins nice and smooth but yet I have not sewn with it. I still have some work with it. Paint job still looks a bit strange in the pictures - its actually more olive than green. Some pictures some more

Sure! My favorite examples are: Singer 29K71 needle bar 25 GBP in the UK - thats about $38 https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82031-NEEDLE-BAR-COMPLETE-SINGER-29K-71 Singer 29K71 shuttle carrier for 25.40 GBP in the UK - thats about $38.60 https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/82177%3dCA29-8605-SHUTTLE-CARRIER-SINGER-29K-TOWA Adler 30-1 needle bar for Adler 30-1 321.73€ Germany - thats about $361 http://www.wdn.de/artinfo.php?artnr=A%20%2013827 Adler 30-1 shuttle carrier for 265.24€ in Germany - thats about $297.50 http://www.wdn.de/artinfo.php?artnr=A%20%2015246 The Adler prices for spare parts are ridicules! Keep in mind that the 29-4 (w/o K suffix) is an US made machine and is for sure several decades old and not all parts from the more modern 29K71 will fir for the older 29-4 or 29K4 I´d recommend a 29K patcher in the 60´s or 70´s sub class but these are for sure harder to find. You for sure can find many threads about Singer and Adler patchers here in the forum - basically the stitch length is an good indicator for how worn a machine is. When new they produce 5 stitches per inch (Singer 29K and Adler 30). But I would not buy a patcher when the produce more than 6 or 6.5 stitches per inch except you can live with these short stitches.

agree, I would not buy it when it is not fully functional. Almost impossible to find parts. If you are a user and not a collector I´d rather buy an Adler or Singer patcher. Personalyl I´d prefer a Singer patcher because a lot of parts are available (but depends on the model) and Adler parts are extremly expensive.

One of the nicest Colibri patchers I ever have seen - still in original unrestored condition. http://www.ebay.de/itm/262073915760 Some "stolen" pictures for the records

Dürkopp made their own patcher like the Class 17 + Class 18. They are totally different compared with the Adler 30. Pictures would help to ID your machine

I have a Mazda car - are parts available? How can we know without knowing what kind of Dürkopp machine you are talking about - at least one good picture would help (maybe). The ability to sew leather means nothing - all sewing machines can sew leather. Without any further information no one can help you.

I´m not hand sewing but have CT issues in both wrists. What helped me are cortisone in injections directly into the writs every 3 - 6 month depending on if I have issues or not. So it was not a therapy but the injections last for at least 3 month (in my case) I know sometime cortisone is considered as "bad" but as alway it depends on the dose. For some reasons it became better the last few month but I still feel it when I do a lot of handwork (in general). I haven't´s had injections at least for 10 month. The "stuff" is called DIPROSONE DEPOT and comes in 1ml ampules. Don´t know if you have the same stuff in the US but I´m sure you have something similar. And believe it or not even my pollinosis became better during the season.

or put a smaller pulley on the winder

Nice idea again but how do you wind the bobbins? Does the winder fit on the small board?