Constabulary

Reminds me a bit of the Pfaff 332 or similar Paff free arm machines or Duerkopp 1021. But I never before have seen this particular machine

Uwe - you rock! You are hired for sewing machien Videos!

Try a needles 1 size up or use a 1 size smaller thread in the bobbin. Check the tension spring on the hook if it has dirt / lint underneath or if it is worn / bent up or the like.

No overkill - why? The swing down guides are 39.00GBP at College Sewing in the UK, not sure how much they are in Canada https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/KG1245-DROP-GUIDE-PFAFF-1245%2c1246%2c1525%2c1526%2c335%2c591

Hi Ralf, you have to disassemble the head to get to the bell crank lever. Remove the pin that attaches the needle bar to the adjuster in the top lever (back to front, pin is tapered), remove the 4 screws that hold the head on the body, remove the foot lift lever, remove the screw that holds the curved spring on the head and the 2 screws on the top, remove the 2 screws from the bell crank lever.... Maybe I forgot something but thats basically what you have to do and since you love old technology the rest is pretty much self explaining. It´s sometimes a bit tricky but no rocket science - I did that a couple of times in the past year. My 1st patcher was a Singer 29K71 and I knew nothing about it. All parts just fit in one position so there is not much you can do wrong. I wish you posted this 2 days earlier - yesterday I was in Langenhagen BTW - as far as I know the bell crank lever from the 30-1 and Singer 29K are the same, you maybe have to do some small modifications.

I just looked at the parts manual (looked at the parts drawings not checking the parts # & nomenclatures) and if your machine looks like the one in the manual then I would assume it has a safety clutch (I thought it hasn´t) and the button in the flat bed is for reengaging it BUT it either has no stitch length adjuster (fixed stitch length) or it has a different stitch length mechanism. Can you post a picture of the underside of your machine? Usually the 111´s have two buttons in the flat bed, left one for adjusting the stitch lenght (hold it down and adjust the stitch length by turning the hand wheel) and the right one is for reengaging the safety clutch. So I´m not certain if it is possible and how to adjust the stitch length on your machine.

Usually the the needlebar should rise 2.5mm from BDC and at this point the hook tip should meet the needle scarf 1.6mm above the needle eye in the center of the needle. Thats basically the same at all machines of this type. It works for the Singer 111, Dürkopp 239 / 241, Paff 145 and I´m sure it works for your Adler as well. But maybe you just hit a hard spot and you just have to lower the needle bar a little bit.

when you slide away the lid on the top right side you can see the timing belt. Some machines can handle 207 but most likely it can`t. I would not count on it.

It´s your first sewing machine, right? You can change the thread size by using larger size needle and adjusting the top tension (and maybe bottom tension) accordingly. Manual tells you how to change the stitch length. It´s a good idea to read the manual first anyway. Just as a note - looks like your machine has no safety clutch - at least it has no button for re-engaging it. Furthermore seems it once was a 2 needle machine because it has a tension unit for 2 threads and a longer bed to accommodate a 2nd hook on the left side.

Agree - check the timing belt - if it is an old looking brownish belt and it has a lot of small cracks or even chipped spots or missing teeth then be careful. The problem of these Adlers is that the shaft bearing is very very small (compared with a Singer 111 f.i.) and you will have serious problems squeezing the timing belt through the gap between shaft and housing when you have removed the bearing. And removing that freakin bearing is the 1st challenge. It is doable you can damage the timing if you are not careful. I did thats once on an Adler 167 and since then I leave my fingers of any Adler machine with questionable timing belts. Here is a picture of how it looks when the bearing is removed (it was a pain)

G is for Germany. Early German Singers had a D for "Deuschland" in their model numbers but in 1945 the Singer factory in Wittenberge / Prussia was disassembled in 1945 by the Russians. In the 1950´s Singer started again in West Germany and these machines have a G in their model number. If you don´t mind please post some pictures of your machine. It is the same machine as the 111w117 and the 117 subclass has an edge cutter as far as I know (if not removed). Yes, it takes the same parts - I have a 111G156 and all standard Singer 111 fit this machine. I hope the attached files will help you (parts list & manual) 111W116_117.pdf 111W152_W153_W154_W155.pdf

They have the G60 www.ae-sewingmachines.co.uk

It´s a guess so comapre the dimentiosn before buying. The 111 bobbins are ~ 21,5mm diameter x 10mm high

I also have two JACK servos from College Sewing in the UK, both 750Watts and both have added a speed reducer. One is for my 133K3 and on the other one I have a Singer 111. Maybe overpowered for the 111 but it will only kick the safety clutch when you hit something really hard at higher speed so thats not an issue for me since I´m sewing quite slow (and it never happened). If you need a needle positioner the Jack servos do not work with an added speed reducer. I have no experience with the Ho Hsing G60 but sounds like a good one. I think it doesn`t matter if a 750Watts or 550Watts Servo or 370Watts clutch motor kicks off the clutch when you hit a hard spot. The resistance of the clutch is always the same. I´d say thats what the safety clutch is meant for.

I´ll send you an PM

I think Singer 111, 153 or Consew 226, 227 type bobbins are the ones I think. Afaik the clones of these machines are using the same bobbins.

I just have read a manual of the Singer 31-19 / 31-47. They say that the needles for this machine are MADE in these size, they do not specifically say that the machine can use this size of needles. You know what I mean? I think it´s like reading between the lines and it leaves room for interpretations. So what is the poet trying to tell us? I honestly don´t think that 23 or 24 size needles can successfully be used in machines of these classes. I guess its about the same text that you found in your manual. Just my 2 cents

Seems the curved piece thats is holding the bobbin case is missing the jutting tip. This tip prevents the thread from getting caught between hook and bobbin case.

Any chance that you have manual for the machien or know the nomenclacture - maybe it has one beside UNITED THERMOSETTING AND FOLDING MACHINE

Seriously? What exactly are you doing with it? I just cant "think around the corner" in this case - shoe making is too far away for me.

Why the hell do you know where to look for it - I hate you for that ***just kidding** Thanks a lot for your help!!!! Would have been a boat anchor for me but the machine is dirt cheap but I have no use for it. Tanks again Machinehead

I know I`m also just guessing

I have seen it but I think its a different machine. I wish I could find some other interesting machines in thats area...

DVSG was located in Frankfurt / Main (West Germany). But my DVSG #6 HM (or Pearson / BUSMC #6 HM) sewing machine was made @ IVI Metallics in Great Britain - at least all parts have the IVI markings. AFAIK DVSG and BUSMC belonged together at some point of their history so thats why I assume it could also be a BUSMC made machine. This strange machine is in the far West of Germany so for sure nothing from behind the iron curtain. Not even sure if it is a sewing machine at all... If it was closer to me I´d take a look at it but traveling 500Km one way w/o knowing anything about it is a waste of time and money I´d say.

This is the closest I have It´s not my machine - it is but quite far away from me so w/o knowing anything about it I don´t take the pain - but it´s an interesting one anyway. Tag says DVSG so it is for the shoe industries but I would assume it is BUSMC made - just a feeling.