Constabulary

has nothing to do with the belt but I´d chose a different photo background. I don´t think this table is very representative - I guess you know what I mean when you look at the last 4 pictures.

I was able to locate some parts. Shuttle cover even seems to be NOS. My original shuttle cover had no spring so I bougt the complete unit. Hope the needle plate screws will fit...

www.Sieck.de has a wider range of sewing machine but the prices on their website are w/o VAT, you have to add 19%

Keep in mind that you have to pay custom fees and EU import taxes on the whole price including the shipping cost when you order from outside the EU. If unsure ask your local customs office.

hmmmm - seems I was on the wrong track. Too modern machine for me

If someone needs original needle guides and presser feet - I will sell some of mine as I need some bucks for spare parts http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=64861&p=421023

I have some original presser feet and needle guides for the Pearson / BUSMC 6HM. Most parts are marked with numbers and the IVI Metallics hallmark.They all came withe the machine I´m about to restore. I think I do not need these parts after I´m done with the machine and I need some coins for buying some spare parts for it. Paypal is welcome - I will ship worldwide by registered airmail. Tracking through the USPS website is possible. Each presser feet is $50 + $7 registered Airmail Each needle guide is $75 + $7 registered Airmail 10% discount when buying at least 2 feet or 2 guides - or all together for $320 including fully insured worldwide Airmail shipping. Some pictures

Right - thats why I installed it. I have about 10mm foot lift by hand but due to the longer lever I can "feather" it about 2mm more so for me it´s perfect. The 211 lever is a spare part every Singer 111 or clone owner should switch to - parts # is 508309. But they are hard to find as spare parts but maybe you have some floating around

Hi Gregg - I know, I have tried a long 1 piece lever from a Consew and the 2 piece lever from Singer but and I have tried 2 knee lifter and a pedal. All worked technically okay but for me it is more logical and more practical to use the ordinary hand lifter and the long one from a Singer 211 performs much better that the short OEM one. Just my experience.

Yes - but old technology often enough it is very long lasting

I don´t think that flatting the grove in the shuttle really makes it better. When the material is gone then it´s gone so the spring cannot produce a consistent tension. But thats just a guess w/o having the parts in from of me. You could try a new tension spring (could work but I´m not sure) if the old one is worn too. But there are at least 2 different springs available, one for open frame shuttles and one for closed frame shuttles. I´d try a new shuttle. Because of the needle bar hight - from BDC the needle bar should rise approx. 3mm and thats the point where the shuttle hook tip should meet the needle scarf. Have you checked if your needle bar has timing marks? Some do some don´t.

hyttogpine - I don´t wanted to sound harsh. Seems I was in a bad mood - sorry . I guess you wanted to know HOW to adjust the foot hight on the 111G156, right? On the backside there is an internal screw with a very coarse thread - don´t know the name of it but with this screw you can adjust the foot lift hight. If it is stuck try some penetrating oil or heat gun or similar. See red circle

Bobbin winder wheel is touching the V-belt, right - if not move the winder closer to the V-belt. Or is it the bobbin not sitting tight enough in the spool pin - if so then widen the 2 prongs of the spool pin a little bit.

ha ha - what a bargain - BUY IT!

Seems the rod and the smaller parts of the lifter is missing but maybe the parts are in the drawer.

And here is the operators guide. Yes the € - GBP exchange rate really sucks but still worth placing an order in the UK. I`m buying 90% of my parts from College Sewing. BTW - how much do you have to pay for the 211G166 Singer 211 Operators Guide.pdf

Picture is quite small. Yes, the 2 -piece bar on the backside is for lifting the foot. Seem the machine is using a knee lifter. Since you are from Ireland I´d say College Sewing in the UK is probably a good source for 211 parts. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/Singer211G,211U,211WSewingMachineParts Seems the V-belt is missing or it it just off. I´d look if the timing belt is in good condition because replacing will cause some work. The machine has a safety clutch maybe it has relesed (you say it is now running). I have a service manual and an operators guide as PDF. Service Manual 211G165_166_265_266.pdf

Afaik the 29-4 was made in the US and the 29K4 was made in Kilbowie, Scotland. The 29 with a single digit subclass are very old. Some parts of the more modern 29K71 will work for this machine but not all. You can find older parts here: http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html I have restored a 29K1 last Christmass. The 29K1 is like the K4 but the K4 has a side wheel attachment. Maybe you are interested: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=60554

I guess this is the video - it´s from LW Member gottaknow (Eric).

Screw seems to be there. This wheel is just an indicator for the stitch length. The set screw fixes the indicator wheel (or dial) on the top shaft - thats it. When you loosen the screw you can line up the numbers with the small hole on the front depending on how long your stitch length is. So at the longest stitch length of 5 SPI the 5 should show up at the small hole. The stitch length adjustment is happening on the underside of the machine - see the other thread I have linked. It is correct that the plunger goes down after a 1/2 revolution or so. There is a notch the plunger goes in and thats the point from where you can adjust the stitch length. Longer when turning the hand wheel towards you and shorter then turning the other direction. If it does not work most likely the adjuster is gummed up.

On my Singer 111 I´ve been playing around with 2 different knee lifters and a foot pedal and ended with just a longer lifting lever on my machine. This so sar works best for me. I took a lever of a Singer 211 which is longer than the standard Singer lever.

Maybe this thread will help you: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57068&page=1

How is your thread coming off the spool? The thread guide should be centered right above the thread spool and should be as high as possible so the thread is coming off w/o hanging. Have you tried leaving out one or two threading holes in the 3-hole guide? I most of the time leave out holes. Going through all the holes is for getting a possible twist out of the thread but thats not always necessary. These guides have nothing to do with thread tension in general but in some cases they can cause some tension with some sort of thread. Thats at least my experience. Just give it a try. This is how I´m using the threading holes and I have zero issues.

As a Hobbyist I personally would not buy a sewing machine with oil pump.When you are running a sewing machine in an industrial environment and have a proper trained mechanic around it´s a different story. I like the manual oiling and while doing it I´m checking my machine for smaller issues (like dirt, lint or loose screws...) so I know everything is in good oder but when you depend on an oil pump (in terms of "Fire and Forget") and it fails for some reason you are screwed (sooner or later). The post Uwe mentioned is a good warning I think. I think manual oiling or wick oiling machines are what a leather worker should look for. The Singer 211 is a nice example for a combination of manual and wick oiling. It has a system of wicks and even some external screw you can open for checking, cleaning or oiling the oil pads.

They do - the 227 takes the same feet as the Singer 111 and many others. This is a fair priced set of left and right toe feet: www.ebay.com/itm/280873808655