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Everything posted by Constabulary
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I have a set of 4 screws from a 29K73 but I think the long arm patchers are using the same screws, the short ram patchers ahd screws with smaller diameter afaik. I´ll send you a PM.
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I may have some but have to check first - I´ll keep you updated...
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Singer 111W155 Arm Shaft Bushing Will Not Come Out
Constabulary replied to tammythefactory's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Have you cleaned and oiled the machine? Maybe the hook is gummed or the hook gears or the needle bar or the presser foot bars... - maybe some old thread or dirt under the hook or bobbin case. Post some good clear and detailed pictures of your machine with removed face plate and from the underside - maybe someone will notice something.- 23 replies
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How Not To Respond To Advice
Constabulary replied to Darren Brosowski's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I have heard the Chinese tread their thread with "certain" substances but could be the oil as well.... -
Agree - you never have enough sewing machines . Sooner or later you start thinking "oh -I could use that one too..." though you don´t need right now but it´s nice to have when the demand tuns up. I once thought I just need one machine and I now have 6 machines and I still have some in my mind that I (sooner or later) could use. Sound stupid but thats how goes. Sooner or later you will regret that you have sold a certain machine.
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Singer 111W155 Arm Shaft Bushing Will Not Come Out
Constabulary replied to tammythefactory's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
maybe the end screw on the hand wheel it too tight - they are not meant to be tightened up they are rot adjusting the hand wheel on the shaft. The 2 set screws are for tightening the hand wheel.- 23 replies
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Singer 111W155 Arm Shaft Bushing Will Not Come Out
Constabulary replied to tammythefactory's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
maybe the V-belt is tooooo tight.- 23 replies
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I´m not sure if the adjuster can be retrofitted. I doubt it. I´d rather buy a Pfaff 38 or Pfaff 138 or an other zig zag machine with adjuster. As Ralf said, you can find them dirt cheap on Ebay sometimes. Retrofitting the adjuster will probably end in dissembling main components of the machine. I personally would not try that for just adding an adjuster which will probably cost more than another machine.
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Hi Alex - nice to "read" you again hope all is well on your end. I was actually thinking of an vintage mangle but I`m not sure if that will work. You need a certain amount of pressure and an adjustable hight and I´m not sure if it will work with a mangle. There are many of them out there but most need a lot of space. And spending 100€ or more to find out that will not work is not what I want but I have not dropped the idea. Still looking for ideas. I also have contacted the German importer for the Paperfox press but have not heard from him. The MfG'er in Hungary seems to sell them for 480€ but they do not take Papyal and I don´t want to loose my money in that part of the world (you never know). I meanwhile have bought a small pneumatic clicker press but I have to enlarge the stamp and stamping table and yet I don´t have an air compressor .However I really like the idea of the papeprfox rotary press. Looks like a very effective system and it does not need much space.
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Is soemone using a cutting machine like this? Seems to be an interesting machine. http://www.paperfox.eu/paperfox-h-500a-rotary-die-cutting-machine.html
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Assistance In Determining What It Is I Have Here?
Constabulary replied to stevesleather21's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Wiz - yes, I´m actually one of the idjits thinking "I wish I had that machine!" I have no use for it but I love these heavy cha-ching machines but I guess it does not fit in flat rate envelope so it has to stay where it is. Are you sure it is in working condition? Sometimes people think when the wheel is spinning and some parts are moving up and down it is in working condition. Working condition means that this machine can actually sew. Have you tried it? Look for Goodyear, Landis, Champion, McKay or maybe USM or Rapid sole or outsole stitchers I´m sure sooner or later you´ll find your machine at one of the shoe machine dealers. Maybe Shoe Machines UK or Pilgrim Shoe & Sewing Machine Co is a good source for you. -
Show & Tell: Needle Feed Platform For Durkopp Adler 205-370
Constabulary replied to Uwe's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
wondering why the Chinese do not copy the Luberto machines. It´s as cool as the BUSMC #6 but with the advantage of a shuttle hook. Especially the adjustable needle assy and foot are nice features. -
Show & Tell: Needle Feed Platform For Durkopp Adler 205-370
Constabulary replied to Uwe's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Once again a nice piece!!! When you get rid of the upper feed you almost have a modern Luberto Classic -
Do I Have A "complete" Busm / Pearson #6 - Or What?
Constabulary replied to Constabulary's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Thank you very much Greenwood Snap in table sounds interesting I´d like to see some pictures of your updates and the whole machine. When you click on the brown button "MORE REPLY OPTIONS" next to the black POST button you can upload some pictures. -
I´m not 100% certain but maybe the lifting arm for the Consew´s may work. They at least work on the Singer 111 - not sure which I have ordered but I would guess that both would work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-227-CYL-W-F-FOOT-LIFT-LIFTING-LEVER-13056A-/120926496799?hash=item1c27c7e81f:g:UF0AAOSwDNdV4LB4 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-206RB-KNEE-LIFTER-LIFTING-LEVER-/290723356033?hash=item43b0765d81:m:mldhAL6SVn-OpwftFqtQ6uA
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Thats part of the game but his machines does not look as if it had been oiled recently. Yet I had no problems with this method. I don´t think the amount of hydrogen coming from the bath is critical. But as always it depends on the concentration and a good ventilation (opening the door from time to time) can´t be wrong even when you work with kerosene and stuff like that. However - Many ways lead to Rome...
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if you really (really really really) want to restore it I´d set up a big electrolysis bath tank and let it "cook" for a few days. Meanwhile this is my preferred method for removing rust and paint from old machines and parts with "not so nice" exterior. I have a squared 65 liter tub that works for machines up to a size of a 29K long arm or Adler 30-1. Therese are dozens of videos on youtube and information on Google so I don´t have to tell the story by my self.
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Holy lord - wost machine I ever have seen - good luck with it - you may need 200€ - 300€ or more to restore it - if it is possible at all. A LOT of missing AND broken parts and rust has already eaten the metal. I would not touch it - its Junk. My opinion.
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Kayser is an old German brand and AFAIK some of the Kayser machines are clones of Singer machines, maybe some even came from the Singer factory in Wittenberge, Prusia and have been relabeled. So I would guess Singer 18 is the exact same machine but I´m not 100% sure. We had too many different makers in Germany. Some pictures of your machine would be nice.
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On 29K71´s - "the real ones" - you can see and access the screw from the hole when the arm is almost down on the front end. But you may need a flash light to see it and you have to loosen a nut on the opposite side first. I don´t know the Chinese variants but maybe some (I don´t know) don´t have this timing screw. I remember I have restored an 29K1 last Christmas and it also had no timing screw but it worked w/o it. Regarding V-Belt grove - do you mean the detectable hand wheel or the fixed pulley on the right? Usually the hand wheel has no grove but maybe the rubber wheel of the bobbin winder is meant to run in it.
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I would remove all that fancy stuff. It probably has a reason why this machine no longer is running in an industrial environment (where it for sure comes from). Probably no reason but usually a normal leather worker does not need these fancy things. But If you like these features keep them and rebuilt them if necessary, why not. But I personally don´t need that stuff. Too many things that could cause trouble and costs.
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Just wanted to have it mentioned because usually these machines have a lock lever on the adjuster. Try a manual from an Adler 67or 167 flat bed machine or the 168, 268 post bed amchines, they are updated models but pretty much the same technology. https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/downloads/manuals.html
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usually 3 screws and often enough the servos are using the same screw holes so not very difficult. You have to adjust the new Servo in hight and sideways the way the pulley has about the same position as the one from the clutch motor. But thats work you have to do anyway if you do not like the clutch motor.