Constabulary

I´m not 100% sure but aren´t the 111G116 and 111G117 machines with a fixed stitch length? They are quite special purpose machines if I remember correctly. Can you post some pictures of your machine?

everything is sold

Holy smokes - Uwe - thats by far the best instruction Video I ever have seen. THANK YOU!!!!! Some clever sewing machine dealers should REALLY open their mind and hire you for their product Videos - I´m serious!

The needle size in relation to the thread size and needle tip pattern is also quite important!

Well, I´m seriously impressed! I have to admit that I really thought you would not get this "thing" back to life! Patience pays off - Congratulations!!!!

SOLD

always helpful when you mention where the machines are located (state / city)

So you are British, you live in Denmark and you have bought this German machine from a Dutch speaking guy - is that correct? To make it even more complicated I have an original Adler Class 4 / 5 manual but it is in German language. I have scanned it a while ago but I cannot attach it here because the file is too big. I also have a parts list but I have to look for it. Please send me your Email address by PM and I can send you the PDF files by Email. BTW - do not open too many thread for just 1 machine and it´s accessories. It´s easier to follow just one thread

Post some close up pictures of the parts you cannot ID. I´m sure I can help you with some of the bits. Regarding the upper feed - I have attached some pictures. The mechanism should look like this: EDIT: not remome - I meant remove

The 2 in the upper right are piping feet and will most likely not fit your machine. They are for fixed presser foot bars. but the 4-4 has a jump back / upper feed mechanisms. Some of the other feet look modified and are probably for special purposes. Do you already you know how to engage the top feeding mechanics?

I´m with you Glenn. Best would be uploading Videos to the forum because sometime Videos dispersal from you tube. Same for manuals and parts lists.

Holly smokes - that's a HUGE pulley on your motor - looks like 200mm or so. I would not invest any money in this motor. I doubt you will find a smaller pulley for this one. I never have seen this particular motor before so I cannot give you an advise for it - really not. I think you really need a new servo motor. I have bought my servo motors from College Sewing in the UK. They also have 40mm pulleys for clutch motors but I doubt they will have one for your motor. You have to remove the pulley first to check what kind of shaft your motor has - straight or tapered.

The motor usually has a data plate and most of the times you find 1400 rpm or 2800 rpm motors in Europe. 2800 RPM is way tooooo fast for leather work. 1400 is quite fast already but when the clutch is good you can work with it. If you want to keep the motor a smaller pulley is what I would install anyway. No, you cannot disengage the speed reducer. In a normal configuration the motor is connected to it with a V-Belt and the machine is connected to it with a 2nd V-Belt. For beginners I´d recommend a new Servo Motor because they have a much better speed control. The combination of a new servo motor + speed reducer is the best option you can have. It is the most expensive solution but you for sure have less trouble with the speed control and you have plenty of torque for sewing thicker materials.

I would say you definitely have to lower the bottom thread tension. But be careful with it because some of the shuttles have a separate set screw for the tension screw. First loosen the set screw and then the tension screw.

How fast is your motor running? 1400rpm or faster? You can slow down a clutch motor (actually the sewing speed - not really the motor) a little bit by installing a smaller pulley, you can get a 40mm pulley at College Sewing in the UK. Or / and you install a speed reducer like this one: http://www.allbrands.com/products/39722-techsew-2700-speed-reducer-slows-down-clutch-motor Or you build one by your self as I did and many others. Search the forum for speed reducer: https://www.google.de/search?q=speed+reducer+site:leatherworker.net&biw=1280&bih=867&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjSsJq6rqzLAhWBCpoKHZShCoMQ_AUIBigA&dpr=1 Or you buy a new servo motor F.I. from College Sewing in the UK: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/SewingMachineServoMotors and optional you can add a speed reducer as well for increasing the torque.

I´m sewing 138 w/o problems. You should also change the bell crank lever. If one roller has a flat spot check the other rollers too. EDIT: but 138 Polyester not Nylon!

Are you serious? From just looking at these pictures no one knows if this clunker is even complete or if you meanwhile have reassembled everything or if the hook and / or timing belt are missing. So what do you think one should start with?

Be careful with the new shuttle driving pinion - the 29K71 gears you find f.i. at College Sewing do not fit for the 29K4 since the early 29K´s have larger gears. Singer has changed (improved) A LOT of parts on the 29K class over the decades. F.I. the K50´s subclass machines have much smaller gears with much finer teeth than any other 29K. The K60´s and K70´s gears are the same as far as I know but do not fit the K50´s or earlier sub class machines.

They are for sure not new but I have seen worse gears. They don´t look too bad in my opinion. Regarding shuttle hook - I have attached a picture of a NOS original Singer hook and a worn Singer hook - difference is pretty obvious. They both work in my 29K71 BUT I can advance or retard the hook on my 29K71 whereas you can`t on your 29K4 if it has no timing screw. So the condition of hook tip really can be an issue. oops - Fingers are still dirty from the latest restoration

With the puritan you for you have a nice but special machine which is worth investing some coins I´d say. If I were you and had the money I´d look for a Singer 97-5 but our preferences are quite different I´d say.

And what will you buy as replacement? How is you Puritan machine doing?

The 29K4 is almost 100 years old so the theory that an oversized thread wore out the gears is a bit far away, isn´t it? I´d rather say decade of use wore out the gears if they are worn.

Then most like the gears are worn or you need a new hook - maybe the hook tip if worn. The hook tip should pass the needle but not touch it (that wears off the hook tip) so I´d move the needle holder a bit to the left. 29x4 is the leather needle so thats okay. I´d probably try a thinner thread and maybe a smaller size needles though 22 should work fine - but you never know these very old machines can be quite self-willed sometimes.

I have worked on a 29K4 and 29K3 and both had not timing eccentric so I`m sure your also has none. Are you using the correct needle system 29x3 / 332? Your thread also looks quite thick (maybe just because of the close up picture) what needle size and thread size are you using? You can try to move the needle holder a bit toward the the hook. Loosen the top screw on the needle holder an try to move it a bit to the right. Needle holder could be quite tight...

What subclass has you 29K? Some have a timing eccentric some do not. Do you have an manual for your machine? Maybe the hook tip is worn. For uploading pictures click the brown MORE REPLY OPTIONS button next to the black POST button.