Constabulary

Are you sure you have threaded the hook correctly. The 29K60 is a large hook machine, rigth? So the thread has to go through the small eye at the center of the hook. I´d also check the hook timing. When the hook tip is worn you probably have to advance the hook a little bit and probably move the needle holder a bit to the right. Loosen the upper screw on the needle holder and try to move it a bit to the right. Have you insert the needle correctly long grove to the left and short grove to the right?

There are roller feet with different roller diameter available. To solve your problem you could remove the foot pressure thumbscrew, rise the presser foot bar and you are ready to go.

Not true - since day 1 I called my Singer 133K3 Rosie - Like Rosie the Riveter. Seems she likes her name

I think very hard leather could be an option as well. Maybe s/t like sole leather or the like.

a gear puller would do the job. Sometimes the balance wheels are gummed

The machine is a Singer 111w155 from the 1950´s

Right - haven´t looked at the hook

Your is obviously bigger tan mine - not often that I say this! Du to the length I would put some squared timber (right word?) lengthwise under the plate to prevent it from sagging sooner or later.

I can reproduce your mistake - seems you are turning your flywheel backward but you have to turn it towards you!

Olie, your friends machine seems to be a Consew 226 not a 206

I would not buy the 206 for $800 - maybe $500-$600 but not more because you for sure will end up with installing a servo motor for approx $150 and since the paint on the flat bad is worn of it has seen extensive use. But that does not mean the machine is worn off. Advantage of the Consew 206 is that you can load the bobbin from the top (horizontal hook). This is (for me) by far more comfortable that tilting back the machine all the time when you wan to change the bobbin. And if I remember correctly the horizontal hook machines can handle thicker thread than the vertical hook machines. Personally I would buy the Consew + new servo motor if the price is right.

Army against Navy - wondering what the Marines manual says

If I remember correctly (haven't worked with one lately) the screw and lock lever is for adjusting the foot lift light hight while operating. Just test it. Makes a lot of noise this type of machine. At least the Adler 4 / 5 with this mechanism did. I once removed the entire mechanism fro a friend machine and installed a regular presser foot. Advantage: He can use the easier to find Singer 45K feet and it is less noisy. Downside: He no longer has the top feed.

Just stumbled over this #6HM on Ebay - maybe someone in the NY / PA or Canadian Border era is interested http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-British-United-Shoe-Machinery-Co-Leather-Hd-Sewing-Machine-Cobblers-Antique-/222090224361?

http://www.atlaslevy.com/Consew-223-223R-227-227R-227FS-227RFS-user-manual_p_3276.html if you can´t find one for free you could look for a Singer 153w manual - same machine but depends on the subclass

Better post some pictures

Check this link:

You should probably consider a Cowboy 3200 from Toledo Sewing Machines. You were already ion touch with Bob so why not checking with them for the CB 3200. The CB 3200 is a walking foot machine like you 111W155 but much heavier. Maybe this Video from Youtube helps a little bit.

Finally got the old Lady working again - bought a dial gauge to find the wobble in the upper shaft and hammered it back to almost zero wobble. Adjusted the shaft bushing a bit and finally I found a working needle bar. Actually the needle bar of a Singer 17 did the job. Seems there are different needle bar length for the same machine sometimes (maybe for special purposes). I tried a needle bar from a pretty beaten Singer 16 before but it was too short. Singer Part # 4264 needle bar in combination with a longer 135x17 needle is working fine. I´m very pleased and I again rescued some old cast iron (this one has been rescued twice actually).

You have to remove the pin since the pin goes thought the shaft AND pulley and you most likely will need the gear puller but depends on how tight the pulley is on the shaft. The gear puller makes it a lot easier.

These pins are tapered and so are all other ins on the 29K. Usually the end that sticks out is the wider end so you have to tap it out from the narrow end. You also may need a gear puller for removing the pulley from the shaft. I´m just ripping apart a 29K3 so here are some pictures

I have replaced some wicks with braided hemp rope

Thats why I have asked - this lever is sometime is installed the wrong way (with the bump up) or as in your case hangs down. Remove the blade spring, remove the screw of the lever but the parts back together and I´m sure this will solve your problem - see attached picture - this is how it should look.

Is the machine feeding the material meanwhile? I guess your stitch length is set on max. right? You know, sometimes these old patchers are very worn and especially the bell crank lever often is worn of on its tip. If the tip is worn off the machine is not feeding properly or produces only very short stitches. How is the gib of the stitch length adjuster installed? The flattened wedge has to be up. Please post a full views of the backside. These patchers are sometimes mystical.

Yes, the 29KSV3 is mine. I just disassembled it for restoration. But I have to make 1 machine out of 2 because both have serious issues. I have another 29K3 (w/o SV). So if someone wants the empty 29KSV3 casting drop me a note. I will take the 29K3 casting as base for the new machine.