Constabulary

Drop in replacement more or less. The 111G156 came with an OEM Made in Germany Singer hook with fixed shaft (the one in the picture) but I once restored a Duerk. 239 a while ago and that machine came with a bunch of extra parts incl. some hooks. The mechanic of the two machines looked very similar and my Singer hook seemed to be a bit worn though it still worked fine. I just gave it a try and it worked well. Only technical difference beside the replaceable shaft is that the Singer hook has a slit in the shaft for the set screw whereas the Duerkopp hook hasn´t (hook saddle and gears are the same with the same set screws). Recently I have replaced a needle bar on a Durkopp machine with a 111 needle bar from College Sewing - worked well. So I know for sure that many Singer 111 and Duerkopp 239 / 241 / 245 (245 is needle feed) parts are interchangeable. They are also using the same feet.

This seems to be the one but no shaft http://www.miketony.com.tw/en/2-1958-34698/product/HOOK-130-13-115-id182703.html however - the HDU249 is cheap on Ebay: http://www.ebay.de/itm/HDU-249-249-592-Hirose-Sewing-Machine-Hook-For-Durkopp-249-541-Machine-NEW-/371441580712

I know there are alt least 3 different hooks for the 239. One is for small bobbins and has a bar across the bobbin case like the 111w hooks have, one has a bobbin case cap like Pfaff or Adler and the 3rd is a large size hook with cap. I think the one you linked is the cap type hook but w/o the deflector tin and shaft. But I think it needs a different hook saddle. Here is a picture from an older 239 parts list. Maybe this one could be an option but it´s just a guess (because of the extra deflector) https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/HSH1215MM5-HOOK-and-BASE-HIROSE

Now that I see the pictures... I´m using an original OEM DUERKOPP hook with replaceable shaft in my 111G156 which also has a "deflector tin" under the hook. Maybe some Companies have discovered this problem earlier. Thats probably why I never ran into this problem. The DUERKOPP 239 and 241 and the like are using a lot of Singer 111 compatible parts. Pic 1 Singer hook on the right in Pic 2 on the left. All other parts are DUERKOPP

My 2 cents from just watching the Video: I think you cannot fix this even with more travel on the regulator spring. You just have to make the turn when the needle is in deeper position. The thread is "caught" in the needle hole (in the material) so I don`t think there is much you can do.

Yes, remove the pin on the needle bar and the larger one in the middle of the arm (both from back to front) turn around the arm and you will notice the hole from where you can hammer out the roller in.

usually the arm has a hole on the bottom from where you can hammer out the roller with a pin punch or the like. Because of the shaft - if you dare hammer it back as good as you can I did that with my Singer 34KSV5 and the wobble is almost gone. I have used a dial gauge to find where the wobble is and hammered from the other side - it just took 2 or 3 hearty hammer strokes.

So what is your budget? My 2 cents: If I had to choose from then I´d take - non of them. But the closest I think could be the Singer 110K124 but I still would not buy it. All other are more ore less garment sewing machines. Before I start telling you why better read this thread: And / or watch Arthur Porters Video:

Check this thread - seem LW member TREVOR has what you need

Don´t know how close the 45w is to the 47w maybe this belt fits which BTW is the same as for the Singer 111w http://www.ebay.de/itm/SINGER-47W70-NEOPRENE-ARM-SHAFT-BELT-224195-/300720930543

65€ is not much for a machine repair, what have they done with it? I think 0.8mm thread is too thick for this machine. The metric thread size should be mention on the thread spool. Patchers are often overrated - they are very versatile but they are not heavy duty machines. Thick thread above 138 (20 metric) does not make much sense with these machines and will probably stress your machine - if you are able to run this thick thread at all. Anyway - check the position of the needle. Sys. 332 needles should have the long grove left and short grove right and the needle eye should face straight right but you can play with it a little bit with the angle. Probably move the needle holder a bit closer to the hook. I´d also check the hook timing and the condition of the hook tip.

Buy him a new drill press and I´m sure he will "overlook" your new machine

Too bad, I just ran out of pocket money. What a damn cool machine! I think with reverse it would cost more Has it a servo or clutch motor?

if the pin is not moving at all your tension release slide is probably worn or broken. Part #19 in this picture. LW Member Uwe has a Video on how to replace it.

See attached picture - check if the parts are all present (could be be that #15 is missing as not all tension units have this part) especially the pin #11. If pin is present you probably have to adjust the small tab in the center of disc #13 a it towards the machine. It also could be that the pin #20 that goes through the machine is a bit for and does not push against the lever #17 any longer. It also could be that the whole unit is not properly mounted - loosen the screw #22 and push the tension unit a bit towards the machine and tighten the screw again. Screw is inside the machine casting and you see it when you look from the right

Not "my" Video - Arthur Porter (also a LW member here) made it.

I have an english 138 manual where the 2 needle sewing thing is mentioned but file its too large to attach. Here is a picture of the "K" marked parts. I only have this tiny picture of the threaded left tension unit - hope this helps

The older Pfaff 138 had a stamped in "K" for Knopfloch (thats German for Buttonhole) on the left tension unit and originally the 2nd bobbin case that was supplied with the machine also had a stamped in K. You also can use double needles with this machine f.i. for sewing tucks (in German it is called Biesen) - but don´t ask me how this work's I never tried this. When I had a Pfaff 138 I used the 2nd unit for heavier thread as Ralf C. said.

Not sure what you see but for me it looks correctly threaded for a large bobbin hook.

hard to tell from the distance - can you make a small Video? Is is possible that your feed dog is too high?

No I don´t - post it please

Jimmy where the hell have you found this - Smithsonian again?

I have tried a few clutch motors and 2 other servos before I bought my JACK servo motors and combined them with speed reducers minus the included EPS - I´m pleased and I don´t need anything else but it for sure depends on the individual needs. Others may need am EPS / NPS but I don´t.

Sewing fingers hurts and is not heathy in the long view