Constabulary

try a needle 1 or 2 sizes up!

You most likely need a compete new hook saddle, hook, bobbin case opener and the casting needs some machining AFAIK. A new used large hook machine would be cheaper I think. EDIT: was just writing when TT answered

Wiz linked to the Video. Hope that cures you from the sailrite LSZ-1 If I had space problems and need a heavy leather machine for holsters I´d check with the mentioned dealer f.i. and ask for options - maybe they can somehow set up a CB3200 for limited space. Keep in mind that the machine performance is one of the keys for successful leather sewing. It does not help you when you have a machine that fits your space but has not enough performance to sew heavy leather. You know what I mean? LW member UWE once showed a mobile / space saving solution with a Adler 69 (I think) cylinder arm sewing machine and a servo motor but I can´t find the thread. So that setup but with a CB 3200 instead could be an option or at least a part of a solution. I´m sure UWE will read this and find the link to his thread.

The sailrite LSZ-1 is a joke for sewing holsters - not sure if you have seen the "funny" Youtube Video already. Putt 200 bucks on top and you can go for a proper Cowboy CB3200 with walking, Servo Motor and speed reducer f.i from Toledo Sewing Machines: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html EDIT: sorry - have not noticed the word "portable" earlier - however you should consider the CB3200 anyway. Maybe build your own space saving stand. Well - depends on how portable you need your machine.

Compared with your 211 / 111 It can handle much thicker thread and has a HUGE rotary hook. It is gear shaft driven so no need to replace a timing belt one day. Thats what comes to my mind within a few seconds

You may have seen this video already

I have no source for the 508309 lever but I once have updated my Singer 111G156 with the 508309 lever of a Singer 211 so I think you can use the standard Singer 111 lever as well they are just shorter. I may have one of the shorter levers if it works for you.

Looks like an updated clone of the Singer 132K6 - somehow. So the adjuster on the Singer 132K´s is where the red arrow points to but since the manual says "REMOVE COVER" I would guess it under the cover plate where where white arrow points to. Take some pictures of your machine and of what under the "covers".

Check with Keystone Sewing Machine Co.

Have you checked your manual how to thread the machine? If you don´t have one download it HERE When you reinstall the needle plate make sure the small squared tab of the bobbin case sits inside the small notch on the underside of the needle plate. You cannot operate the machine w/o the needle plate installed!!!Thats very important. Otherwise you could damage hook parts when starting to sew or probably disengage the safety clutch (if your machine has one).

Not sure when they have introduced the excenter for adjusting the timing but I think that came in the 30´s subclasses but not sure. The parts of the sewing head "almost" remained the same since the introduction of the helical presser spring (51 sub class) but there are some minor differences since there are very few subclasses that have a longer stitch length (like 29K52 / 29K54) than the "standard" 29K´s but they are rare as the hens teeth I´d say. I never have seen one. And I never read somewhere how much longer the stitch length is. The advantage of the later sub classes form 51 onward (51-56 if I´m right) is the helical presser spring instead of the blade spring on the back side plus the foot lift hight during the sewing operation can be adjusted by a "slide piece" secured with a wing nut on the backside of the head and you can adjust the presser foot hight the way that the presser foot does not touch the plate - maybe that's useful for thicker works - I´m not sure but that's at least one of the inventions in this subclass range. They also had a "drop out" gear box, whereas the earlier had a fix gear box in the lower arm. The gears in this range are critical as they have very fine teeth and spares are no longer available - or you have luck and find some old stock. From the 58 subclass onward (58-62) the machines have a "quick release" for the hand wheel. You can pull and turn a plunger then only the hand wheel spins when you wind the bobbin. The predecessors had a fixed hand wheel and the the whole machine mechanics runs when you wind the bobbins. You also have one big screw that holds the hand wheel on the shafts. Predecessors had two set screws. But you have an adapter the hand wheel sits on and when you want to switch the hand wheel from front to side you also have to remove the adapter which also is secured with 2 set screws. From the 58 onward the machines no longer had the plain screw and nut as thread adjuster on the arm lever. Instead they had an adjuster unit with thumbscrew dial. They also have a fully replaceable lower arm horn which includes the gear box. And as far as I remember there is a screw post with thumb screw on the upper arm for regulating the spring for the thread lever. That formally was just a plain screw. Not sure what the update on the 70´s subclass was but I remember there no longer it s screw that holds the needle plate instead there is a "mushroom pin" secured with a set screw from the front. Basically - the higher the subclass number the more technically advanced the machine is and the better is the chance for finding spare parts. So if I was looking for a used 29K patcher machine that I want to use for a long time and parts have be available I´d look for a machine from the 58 subclass onward since most of the parts from the "up to date" 71 / 72 / 73 subclass fit these machine. Or in best case find one for the 71 onward. I looked for a long time until I found a 29K71 short arm but it was in quite bad shape so I have restored it and I´m more than pleased with it. I only wish it had a large hook. I know there was a 29K short arm model with large hook. Glenn mentioned it a while ago but I have never seen one of them. I hope I have not mixed up something... Too many details on these machines have changed over the years. I´m sure Glenn / Shoepatcher knows more details.

29K are sometimes a bit confusing because the difference between 2 subclasses sometimes is just the presence of a wax pot (or not) or a side wheel (or not) or if the machine has a small or large bobbin... The 29K parts list sometimes tell the differences. They write "Same machine as 29K.... but with the following differences..." - or the like. 29K70 short arm, small bobbin, no side wheel - 29K71 short arm, small bobbin, with side wheel, 29K72 long arm, large bobbin, with side wheel, With side wheel they mean the detachable hand wheel on the front side.The machines with just an end wheel sometimes are lacking the wooden crank knob. Not sure on the 70´s subclass but the early 29K´s with just end wheel often do not have the crank knob.

Eric - I`m not sewing at high speed and don´t use the mentioned oil or lubricant but when the Lilly White Oil does not stain can´t you use it as thread lubricant as well?

WOW - what a nice massive machine. I don´t know the Landis but you can contact LW member SINGERMANIA, He lives in Australia and has A LOT of nice heavy machinery. or check with Campbell-Randall.

I have an older photo copy of the dismantling instruction + parts list for the Pfaff 145 in English language - if you are interested I can scan it and post it in the days to come. Or send it by email if the file will be too big.

I have restored a couple of barn finds over the time. Fortunately most where Singer "based" machines and never had bigger parts issues. Pfaff parts (even after market parts) are a bit more expensive as you for sure know but as long as you don´t meed a new hook it´s most likely worth restoring it. Good thing is the 145 has no timing belt so you you will not have headache with that. Looking forward to some pictures

1/4" without problem! with mine I can sew 10mm cotton webbing w/o problems - but 10mm not veg tan leather

Some of the above hints may sound stupid for you but sewing machines are sometimes a bit self willed and even the tiniest change (even different brand thread or different needle or thread path) can cause some issues. Thats not always the case but it happens. And it gets even worst when two or more smaller issues come together and you have to locate and eliminate them. I still would leave out the wax pot and try a different thread (not same thread from a different spool) and also a thicker needle.

You say the thread is resin coated. I have not worked with this type of thread but maybe it needs a certain lubrication. To eliminate a thread issue I´d try an uncoated polyester thread instead just to make sure that THIS spool of thread is not causing the issues. I know you have to use this thread because of certain specs but maybe you have just a spool of poor thread. Sewing machines sometime act different with certain threads. F.I. I wanted to use a pure cotton threads on my DVSG / BUSMC #6 and by the lord it did not form a loop and I have no clue why. I tried different tensions and needles but no change. Then switched to a Polyester thread and it sews like a dream right away. I still want to use the cotton thread but cannot see where the problem is. Sounds stupid but thats how it is. When your machine came from a dealer tell him to setup the machine for the material and thread you want to use.

Depends on the thickness you have to sew and the thread size. I´d at least look for a machine with a wide feed dog like the 20U you mentioned. Another option would an older Singer 140W, Dürkopp 252, Singer 307G2, Singer 457. Or a double needle Zig Zag like the Singer 167W. For something real heavy look for an Adler 166, 266 or the like. Or maybe the Tech Sew website will give you some ideas: http://www.techsew.com/machinery/industrial-sewing-machines/regular-stitch-and-zig-zag.html?limit=all

How it the thread coming off the thread spool? Is it a X-wound cone of straight wound spool? Sometime thread keeps hanging when the thread is not coming off the spool properly . The thread guide arm of the thread stand should be straight above the spool. I´d also leave out the wax pot when you do not sew with waxed / oiled thread. At least worth giving it a try.

What a beast! Congratulations! I guess big oil holes means it needs lots of oil

I don´t know the Class 7 machines but can you try to adjust the needle bar hight or is the needle bar pinned? I would guess you have to lover the needle bar a little bit.

I´m using a Singer 307G2 and a Singer 111G156 in the same table cut out so I bet the 111, 206 and 563 will fit - the Pfaff for sure has a longer flat bed. If I had to choose a machine I´d take the Juki 563

If the parts number is the same it will most likely fit! I have a used original Singer main shaft #82010, always wanted to replace the shaft on my 29K71 but don´t have the time an patience atm. The shaft on my 29K71 is cosmetically not very nice but works w/o problem so I don´t necessarily have to replace it. if you are interested send me a PM and we can talk.