Constabulary

Meanwhile the decals have arrived. I know the whole paint job is not authentic (obviously) but thats not too important to me. I think it turned out quite nice and I´m pleased with it. Next thing is the bobbin winder.... Once again I rescued some old cast iron

Almost done! Now that I see the pictures I thing some parts still could use some TLC... maybe later... Since there are no Singer Wittenberge plant badge decals available I have put a brass badge on. A member form another forum said thats still authentic as the machines from the Wittenberge plant also came with the "british" badge reading "THE SINGER MANFG. Co.. Well I had no other option anyway

Reassembling

Hammertone silver

Grind down all the rust infiltrated paint and smoothed the chipped of spots. Under the paint I even found the drill holes for the Singer badge. This machine originally came with a Singer decal instead of a Singer brass badge (Wartime metal saving I guess). Then gave the machine a good inside and outside paint thinner shower and washed out (hopefully) all the internal gunk of old grease, oil, dust....- what ever this machine has collected over the years. Then taped everything and painted it with hammertone silver.

Fortunately after some oiling the machine spun freely. Then I washed off the odd paint with paint thinner and stripped it as far as necessary. Lots of chipped paint and light surface rust on the lower arm and rust spots where the paint chipped off. Parts turned out quite nice after a thorough cleaning.

A while ago I cane across some vintage machines that were used as garden decoration for a while. Some were exposed directly to the weather all seasons and some had a "roof" over their head but still outside all the time. I had 2 Singer 45 one was a 45K21 but that machine had too many issues like welded driving rod, missing and broken screw so not worth the trouble - I just kept some good parts from it. Fortunately the 45D91 (a pre 1945 German made variant of the 45K) had a roof over its head and survived in "quite" good condition but it has been oddly over painted. This is one of the few Singer 45 models that have a reverse function and I have been looking for one quite a long time. ... just reminds me of Billy Talent: Rusted from the Rain (kind of - not necessarily the lyrics but the Video) I unfortunately have deleted some of the pictures I have taken so I just have a few from the machine as found. I wanted to post this earlier but other things crossed my way so here is the whole story at once.

All servos work will with speed reducers. I have 2 JACK servos both bought from College Sewing and both run with a speed reducer. BUT Jack servo motors with needle positioning system do not work with speed reducers. At least the NPS does not work with a speed reducer but you can tun off the NPS. CS probably does not know speed reducers because they don´t have em for sale or have not setup a machine with a speed reducer ever. It does not matter if clutch or servo motors - they all can work with speed reducers. Check this forum you will find dozens of different SR setups. https://www.google.de/search?q=speed+reducer+site:+leatehrworker.nert#q=speed+reducer+site:leatherworker.net

what do you think how much torque you need? Better buy an electrical safe and out of the box servo motor. College Sewing sells 550W Servos for 99GBP + tax. At the end it´s cheaper than any tinkering + no electrical experiments and you have warranty. An additional speed reducer for sure is a good idea but depends on your purposes. My 2 cents.

I once made one my self. I´m barely using it but it indeed can be helpful. Well, it´s not really a (physical) guide it´s just a light that gives you some orientation between 2 points but it does not make you sew straighter seams. When your hands have a "nervous twitch" the laser does not help you - if you know what I mean. But magnet laser Uwe has linked is way better than what I have built - too bad not available on my side of the pond.

I think you folks should oil your machines instead

my JACK servos have a magnetic accelerator unit. You can tweak them a little bit but I only needed a hex keys to move the magnet lever a bit back. Agree - adding a speed reducer is the best you can do.

Does not surprise me the Singer is the better one. Yet I have not found any good recommendations of Chinese patchers. The few posts I have read were not really positive. Well there are for sure some that work well but personally I´d rather buy and old Singer than a new Chinese patcher. Have fun with your 29K. Post some pictures when you have time.

So true - I have the same problem c´mon - let the voices get you - you need it - you need it!!!

....and again an excellent UWE-Video !!!

could be possible that your hook tip is shredding the thread. You probably have to adjust the needle bar a bit. I would guess you have to lower it a bit. Or have to adjust the hook saddle towards the needle. Just guessing...

132k / 133K are not as heavy duty as they appear to be. One reason for that is for sure the quite light weight hand wheel. I recently have restore a Singer 45D91 (pre 1945 German made 45K so to say) and it has a much larger and heavier hand wheel. The 133K is much heavier weight wise but to me it seems the 45K has more punching power. Mechanically a bit different but needle bar and foot bar mechanism are identical. Needle and needle stroke are the same on both machines. 441 machines are for sure way ahead!

What thread size are you using? You can probably shorten the tension spring a little bit.

try a needle 1 or 2 sizes up!

You most likely need a compete new hook saddle, hook, bobbin case opener and the casting needs some machining AFAIK. A new used large hook machine would be cheaper I think. EDIT: was just writing when TT answered

Wiz linked to the Video. Hope that cures you from the sailrite LSZ-1 If I had space problems and need a heavy leather machine for holsters I´d check with the mentioned dealer f.i. and ask for options - maybe they can somehow set up a CB3200 for limited space. Keep in mind that the machine performance is one of the keys for successful leather sewing. It does not help you when you have a machine that fits your space but has not enough performance to sew heavy leather. You know what I mean? LW member UWE once showed a mobile / space saving solution with a Adler 69 (I think) cylinder arm sewing machine and a servo motor but I can´t find the thread. So that setup but with a CB 3200 instead could be an option or at least a part of a solution. I´m sure UWE will read this and find the link to his thread.

The sailrite LSZ-1 is a joke for sewing holsters - not sure if you have seen the "funny" Youtube Video already. Putt 200 bucks on top and you can go for a proper Cowboy CB3200 with walking, Servo Motor and speed reducer f.i from Toledo Sewing Machines: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html EDIT: sorry - have not noticed the word "portable" earlier - however you should consider the CB3200 anyway. Maybe build your own space saving stand. Well - depends on how portable you need your machine.

Compared with your 211 / 111 It can handle much thicker thread and has a HUGE rotary hook. It is gear shaft driven so no need to replace a timing belt one day. Thats what comes to my mind within a few seconds

You may have seen this video already

I have no source for the 508309 lever but I once have updated my Singer 111G156 with the 508309 lever of a Singer 211 so I think you can use the standard Singer 111 lever as well they are just shorter. I may have one of the shorter levers if it works for you.