Constabulary

or even cheaper They also show measures of the parts in their offer http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Complete-Binding-Sewing-Machine-Attachment-Parts-Bracket-For-Pfaff-335/122140857437

What trip was I on - seems someone put weed in my x-mass cookies? Sure - the large bobbin usually is the the one with the 72 subclass I once have replaced some gears on a 29K73 I bought from CS but used and new gears did not play well together but it depends on the over all condition I think. Worked better when I replaced the small rack too. Dikman - usually the original (!) paint job on sewing machine is very resistant so when they are overpainted with some standard paint the chances are good the original paint survives when you use some sort of paint thinner.

Really small hook? The 29K171 usually is a large bobbin machine. But your gear box really looks not as "beefy" as the one form a large hook machine. Strange! Maybe wrong badge on the machine?

One more but the Co. no longer exists and not sure if they sold worldwide MAX DIETZE GMBH, Dresden

You don´t have to move the thread stand - maybe you misunderstood. Needles system it self is not too important as long as you have set up the needle bar hight correctly. The idea was that you are (probably) using 134 but machine is (probably) setup for 134-35 ~4mm longer than 134 or 135x17 ~5mm longer than 134 measured from shaft to thread eye. But when you have adjusted this it most likely is not the issue. My other thoughts I have posted in the earlier thread. Good luck.

WOW - how cool is that: A large hook short arm machine - my personal holy grale of patchers . Jimi, can you check if the the gear box has a parts number on it? What a great deal! The original baby blue color is for sure something you have to like but at least its the original paint and it seems to be in good condition!

A Pfaff 145 / 545 manual should give you the instructions for threading the machine correctly - though they are flat bed machines the head and hook era are pretty much the same.

Glenn, thats right - I also have set up my Pfaff 345 for 135x17 as well. So the needle system could be a reason for thread shredding - so check your needle hook timing - maybe you have to adjust the needle bar hight. Happy New Year folks....

The "Singer roller feet" should fit the adapter but you probably have to adjust the presser foot bar hight. However, not sure if the combination of new roller foot + adapter are probably too long. As Darren said, I´d contact Ron @ Techsew. I´m sure he can supply the adapter and Singer roller foot too. Or maybe they have smaller rollers for the OEM roller foot.

You never know what the previous owner has sewn with the machine - if the setup worked for his purposes it does not mean it works for your purpose. Because of the top tension - either reduce the bottom thread tension or try a heavier spring on the top tension unit. College Sewing has heavier springs - check with them when they are back on January 3rd. Not sure if this one is heavier as the one installed but I´m using it on my Singer 111 and other machines but they may have other heavy springs too. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/B3114-232-000-BEEHIVE-SPRING-HEAVY-JUKI An occasional loop on the back (could) mean you are loosening the top tension occasionally or have too much bottom tension occasionally. You could also try a needle 1 size bigger like 150 or 160 (metric). Are you sure the hole in the feed dog is large enough for size 20 thread + 140 needle? Post some pictures of your tension unit and how you have threaded the machine and how the stitches look. Make sure the thread is coming off the the spool w/o hanging and the thread guide of the thread stand is centered above the thread spool.

Check minute 1.14

What exactly is the struggle with the thread? reg. stitch length - check this Video:

Machine is definitely a keeper. Well - I´m not 100% sure but the tension unit looks like one from a Pfaff 138. That does not mean your tension unit does not work with the machine but I think its not the original tension unit. Adler tension units look different they look like this: and yours has 2 tensions (thats for double needle machines, sewing tucks and so on) and seems you run the thread through both of them - thats basically wrong. Try to thread your machine a different way - go from the thread guide on top of your machine directly to your tension unit and thread it as shown in this picture and try again sewing.

This is one of the most useless threads in the whole sewing machine section. I´d suggest deleting it as there is no sense in it tat all. Or at least close it with an Admin´s comment at it´s end.

we also have dealers in Germany like Sieck.de or Frank Brunnet who sell Hightex (Cowboy) machines http://www.fbn24.de/epages/64180611.sf/de_DE/?ObjectID=34606502&ViewAction=FacetedSearchProducts&SearchString=441 Frank Brunnet also sells on Ebay and accepts offers: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Cowboy-Hightex-CB-4500-leather-sewing-machine-Sattlermaschine-/222356209782?hash=item33c5768076:g:3rIAAOSwstxVW6ak Since GB is still a EU member you don´t have to pay any custom fees.

Nick - can´t help you with details but I wonder if you already have a price for this machine incl. tax.

I could only tell you what google tells me - guess you have seen this Video already. It explains a lot.

Where are you located? Maybe some one can recommend a good dealer close to you. Hard to tell from a distance what going on with your machine. Post some pictures and a video if possible. My 1st guess would be the needle and hook timing. Maybe it´s just the needle bar that needs and adjustment in hight. Or maybe the hook tip is too far away from the needle or the hook tip is worn.

EXCELLENT !!!!

Not sure what experience you have with sewing machines but generally all sewing machines should have consistently perfect stitches when properly set up. But there are of course the factors of needle and thread for the right material. Thats usually up to the operator or the dealer when you give him order to set up your machine for a certain sewing operation. I can sew long meters of consistent stitches with all of my sewing machines. They would be useless if they can´t do the job. But I of course have to adjust top and bottom tension when sewing different materials and or different thickness and find right needle and thread combination. When you buy a machine from a dealer it should be perfectly set up since you pay him for that! When you buy form a private seller always test the machines with your thread your needles and your materials - when ever possible. Make sure you have the manual with you when you buy an unknown machine from a private seller.

Well, I have sewn max 20mm leather with it - test wise - thats the max. I was able to get under the foot when a needle guide is installed. I never will sew leather of this thickness regularly. I just hand cranked it and needle went through the leather like butter. I have not the most experience with this machine but some pro´s are, the needle feed only since you have no feed dogs marks on the bottom side and the adjustable presser foot - you can move the presser foot back and forth approx. 10mm. Also these machines are easy to work with. I have restored mine - totally stripped it, cleaned it, painted it and put it back together and it sewed right away. I had to adjust just thread tension a bit. You also can adjust some of the wear parts like the needle bar. These machines will probably last for ever if we have no nuclear strike. I think folks who are using machines like the #6HM are not using them just because of these features. I think it also has a lot to do with the historical aspect and tradition of leather work and / or just the joy of using vintage machines in general. Modern machines like the 441 clones are for sure more comfortable to use but as I said before - you cannot beat the joy of using vintage machines like this. For me it is a totally different thing sitting in front of a + 100 years old fully functional harness maker machine that generations of leather works / harness makers have used before I put my oily fingers on it. I have to admit I have not used a 441 yet but I have used and tested many other sewing machines of different classes but the older machines always had this certain something you sometimes cannot put in words. Maybe just the joy of seeing, feeling and hearing these old machines when working sometimes combined with a certain smell. Don´t know - maybe just passion for vintage machines? Maybe others can tell you more....

I would guess this machine was built by Adler. There are a few details I only know from Adler 105 type machines.

I have a BUSMC #6HM but atm barely using it. Also have an BUSMC A1 - just recency acquired (if asking for BUSMC machines in general)

I see you are using titanium needles - are they really so much better?

Yes I have the chip. Its just a cosmetical issue. I´m using the larger pulley anyway so I will try some JB weld. Mechanically the machine is in excellent working condition - zero issues. Meanwhile I have a heavier foot spring installed so I will try to sew some leather in the days to come. I just love the clicking sound it makes njaahahaaa old cast iron is freakin addictive