Constabulary

System 328 / 214x2 I´d say

Most likely the Typical 2603 has no German relatives. Not all sewing machines have German roots. Not sure who came out first with this model, maybe Mitsubishi or Seiko or Juki... not sure...

shipping to Germany would be a challenge - but maybe you can ask for an Air Drop over my house - tell the jumpmaster he has to look for purple smoke signals

Absolutely agree with EVO!!! As I said in an earlier thread - its easy to blame the shipping Co. but most of the time it is the sellers fault who poorly packs up this kind of heavy stuff. I just bought a Singer head from southern Germany and told the seller to use 40mm styrofoam plates on all sides. He used just 30mm styrofoam plates (10mm less make a difference) and the machine feet punched through 30mm styrofoam on the bottom side. If he doubled the plates on the bottom side (as he did on all other sides) it would have been fine. He also did not stuff the space enough and even used air pillows (does not make much sense for heavy items). So even when you tell people how to they often do not listen or think they know better or think their packaging is sufficient. Machine fortunately arrived undamaged but the packaging was not properly done for a heavy sewing machine head. Shipping small and / or lightweight stuff is easy (most of the times) but shipping heavy things or larger things that can easily break can be a challenge. Styrofoam flakes and air pillows are nice but are totally nonsense for heavy items like sewing machines.

too cool - would like to have one too

cool old machine!!!

I think this is the one... or?

I probably have a bobbin winder for this machine but not sure... will check...

Too bad... Striping and welding is too expensive I´d say. I would drill 2 or 3 small holes in the casting and the broken piece fill them with JB Weld push dowel pins JB Weld filled holes and glue it. Not much you can do beside welding or trying to glue it. If you buy a sewing machine head and have it shipped by parcel service - always ask the seller if he can put 1.5" thick styrofoam plates on either side top and bottom of the box - pay for that extra packaging and you should be on the safe side. I know its too late but...

you are welcome - found it somewhere on the web and its indeed a well structured manual.

Looks like a short version of the Singer 31-19 or 31-47 - kind of...

yeah Uwe is "manipulating" all of us with his great videos...

cannot open the file... Twice around is not correct - being precise its 1 + 1/2 time as it comes from the top and goes to the top - but thats a bit of quibbling Agree - the manual that is avail. on the Duerkopp page is a pain ITA

Maybe this manual of a 441 type machine is more helpful for your cylinder arm machine - see attached PDF inst-441.pdf

Most machines of this type are threaded the same way - hope this helps Important is. COMPLETELY AROUND THE TENSION WHEEL

From the historical aspect - wow - what a nice old motor. I love these old "devices". Form the technical aspect - get rid of it - I personally would not use a motor of this age. If you want to use it in a business I´d have it checked by someone professional who gives you an "okay" for it - otherwise I would not use it. Better buy a new servo motor. Yes - a modern servo is "ugly" and does not match a vintage sewing machine setup but your security (or security of employees or family members) should be first priority.

what you mean is a spool pin (or thread guide pin). That's an easy fix - if you are using a "external" thread stand you don´t even need it. What I have posted is the upper tension unit which is missing on your machine and you need this tension unit. It belongs to the backside of the machine there you see the small wire hoop attached with a screw. Compare with the 105 picture. $250 is a GREAT DEAL! Wife is not killing you - she would be just mad for a day or two - or three... Buy her some shoes or handbag - solved

Never liked this thread guide - I once replaced mine with a different type thread guide from a Singer 211 but I don t have the parts number - sorry. I think it was from a 211G model

I doubt this one was built by Adler, I´d rather say its an early "clone". Adler 105 are a bit longer and the upper part looks different. However - still a great deal I think! I think it is a needle fee machine (like 105-64) but to be sure I´d like to see a picture of the back side of the machine. If you mean the upper tension you can probably replace it with the tension unit of a Singer 29K. Not sure if the internal threading is the same but in worst case you can glue it in with JB Weld - did that on a friends Adler 4 machine a while ago - works flawless up to the current day. If you buy the 29K tension stud make sure you are buying a tension nut too as the threading may be different. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/413D-ADJUSTING-NUT-SIDE-SINGER-29K https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/1560W-TENSION-NUT-SINGER-29K https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/2102-TENSION-DISC-SINGER-29K (2 needed) 29K tension springs are probably too weak - you may need a heavier spring for your machine. I´m sure you can find these parts in the US too (Toledo Sewing Machine F.I.) but CS in GB is my source for parts as I´m on the other side of the pond. Here are pictures of a Singer 45K and 29K tension unit just to compare. Picture 1 is 45K and picture 2 is 29K - notice the heavier spring in 1st picture

I came across two very nice vintage machine mounted automatic bobbin winders (pops back when bobbin is full) for Singer 45K barrel type hooks (same hooks / bobbin as for Adler 4, 5, 104,105, CLAES and other machines) I think they would work for Adler 20, Singer 7 and the like as well. One is for sell the other one I will use for an electric bobbin winder. I have cleaned it and it has a new rubber tire. Is a really nice one and beside the original Adler bobbin winders probably the best and nicest I have seen yet. Its made of cast iron and quite heavy. The winder is approx 0.75Kg. I ask 60€ / $65 + 10€ / $12 for worldwide registered Airmail shipping. I´m sure you wont find bobbin winders of this quality anymore. They just don´t make them anymore or you pay an arm and a leg for them if available at all (maybe from Dürkopp Adler). I have two different adapter plates for it - one for flat bed and one for cylinder arm machines. I will include either one or both for free as I have no use for them. But since they are also made of cast iron they are quite heavy and will increase shipping costs. So its up to you if you want them or not. Since there are dozens of different machines out there I cannot guarantee that the plates will fit all machines - however the plates are for free! Send me a PM if interested.

a servo motor is a modern energy saving sewing machine motor that often replaces the old energy consuming clutch motor. Its is easier to use and gives you a better sewing speed control. a 45k is probably not the ideal machine for just 2x 4oz leather. I´d say a flat bed walking foot machine is better to start with and cheaper to but that depends on whats avail. on your market. Since you are from Australia I´d check with Steves Industrial Leather Sewing Machines - he is in Gooburrum, Queensland - or find him on facebook https://www.facebook.com/Steves-Industrial-Leather-Sewing-Machines-345144232177296/ Maybe this thread gives you an idea how to choose a sewing machine for your projects.

well, considering it´s condition and age (most likely 1960´s or newer) I think it´s not overpriced but you most likely have to add a servo motor (as mentioned before) and the machine still have no reserve. However - 45K are built like tanks they last for many decades if you tread em well. Mine if from pre 1945 and I also have a 133K from 1932 which sews perfect and they by far were not in such a nice condition like yours. 441 clone machines are for sure the better machines but cost a lot more. How thick you wan to sew and what thread size do you wan to use?

You cannot blame UPS in general (or any other shipping Co.) - a lot depends on how the machine is packed up. I have shipped two machines (one patcher and one sole stitcher) from Germany to the US with UPS and both arrived safe and sound but I built crates for the machines. A lot depends on the sender and how he packed up the machine. It´s easy to blame the shipping company but when the sender is not doing his job properly you can be sure a delicate thing like a sewing machine will be damaged. You sometimes have to remove delicate parts (like hand wheel or parts that stick out) before you pack up a machine. Of course seller / sender "thinks" he did a good job but packing up a machine is more that just putting it into a cardboard box...

Depends on the condition, motor, stand and accessories that come with the machine. Keep in mind the 45K25 has no reverse - not that you need necessarily but reverse is quite comfortable. I have been looking for years for a 45K with reverse but have to admit that I´m a bit Singer crazy - could have bought Adler 5 with reverse but wanted a 45K (or 45D in my case). Always test sew a machine with the thread and material you want to use. $1000 AU is not a bargain I´d say but sewing machines are generally more expensive in AU that in Germany or the US AFAIK. If you can post some good detailed pictures of the machine.

Wondering if someone can ID these hooks. I once got them along with a a lot of rusty machine parts when I bought my 45D89 but these are NOS. They are made by NÄMATAG (old German brand) so they are from 1940´s to 1950´s era I would guess. I have no clue what machine they are for. I guess they are for a short arm cylinder arm machine (like Singer 108w or 151w) and they seem to be pinned on a drive shaft (no set screws) but cannot find anything I could compare them with... Bobbins must ne quite flat. A Singer 111 bobbin fits but is too high. Maybe someone has an idea or a comparison list or so...