Constabulary

Black Dogg - I´m not a dealer, I´m just selling extra parts from time to time to get in some play money for my sewing machine hobby. I have no Adler 30 parts. Are you using the correct needle system? Machine needs a System 332 / 29x3 needle or alternatively a 135x17 needle (both ~45mm long). if you have a 332 / 29x3 needle then the short grove should face straight RIGHT and if you have a 135x17 needle the scarf should face straight RIGHT. 1.) I´d try to move the needle holder a bit to the right so the needle is a bit closer to the hook. Loosen the screw above the needle screw and move the entire needle holder a bit to the right but make sure the needle will not hit the needle plate. 2) check the hook timing (see manual) 3.) check if the hook tip is work is worn. If so you can compensate that a little bit by adjusting the timing (see hook timing in manual) 4.) check the condition of the small spring in the shuttle driver. It should gently touch the hook and push it against the gear box (hope you know what I mean) If the spring is worn (should have a nice smooth ball on the tip) I´d replace it because a worn tip may shred the thread sooner or later. If you need a new hook or the small spring they are the same as for the Singer 29K71 / 29KK73 so they should be available at most of the known dealers or even on Ebay. Hope this helps A non marking foot is almost impossible for the machine because it is a top feed (no feed dog or needle feed) machine so it needs the teeth to move the material but you could try a piece of heat shrink tubing. This is nothing permanent and if it does not work for you you can easily remove it.

@ dirkba What parts are you looking for? Usually the 111w / 112w parts are quite easy to find and most parts do not cost much money. @ Evo Can you post some pictures of the upper feed mechanism? I have worked on Adler 5 + 105 with the top feed / flip back foot and on an Adler 4-23 with driven upper feed (I hate my self that I have sold this machine) so maybe I can see some similarities.

I don´t think so but who knows - patchers often came relabeled for other dealers. maybe this thread is interesting for you: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=61501&hl=steriods

Here you can download one in German language http://altenaehmaschine.de/WebRoot/Store21/Shops/2e417a17-bb16-4da8-a113-3b6ba273bc8a/MediaGallery/Claes_Elastik_I_u_III.pdf

srry - I was on the wrong track - when top thread pop out of the tension discs you have loops on the botton not on top (top tension lost bottom tension higher in relation). Well thats the only explanation I have. Please post a pictures of your tension unit. The angle of the thread really matters - no joke.

Just a guess but if that is on top I´d say thread popped out of the tension discs. You probably have to alter the angle the thread goes through the tensions discs. The thread guide is a bit odd on the 211 (at least the few I have seen) - you have to put the thread guide in an correct angle. Sometimes the angle is not flat enough. Post a picture of your tension unit please.

This is the clamp I have it´s original Singer and came with my 133K3 If you are interested please send me a PM

Sewing machine dealers should hire you for producing proper Videos - once again very well done!!! What binder attachment are you using are they from Knowhing (or so)?

Yes, it´s a sack darning or bag closing machine you cannot sew leather goods with this machine. Anyway, I have a PDF 133K8 sewing machine manual I could send you when you send me your email address by PM file is too big to attach.

The oil "bottle" hanging form the oil pan usually collects excess oil AFAIK. some machines have an oil reservoir in the hook saddle meaning the hook gears or hook shaft are running in an oil bath / reservoir and often some wicks are coming from this oil bath and lead to certain oil spots. Post a picture of the underside of your machine that may be helpful.

Seems I missed this thread - sorry the links are dead. I will look if I still have the PDF´s on my PC. Raymond, can you post some pictures of the 133K4 please - I never heard of this subclass.

Learn it it will not hurt you. I had to learn English too. It´s not perfect but I survived 2 weeks in the USA.

I´m sure I have a clamp but not the one for the ball, I have one that clamps the arm the cable goes through - I will look for it tomorrow. You also can replace the bulb with and LED bulb - I did that on my Singer lamps as well - works fine - nice bright light.

What kind of help do you need? You ca buy a manual here: http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-white-768.aspx I think you probably need another machine - this is an odd domestic garment sewing machine with a way out dated vibrating shuttle bobbin mechanism. This is not a machine for serious leather work. You should read this pinned thread here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239

Consew 230

@ teched if you don´t mind can you make a PDF file from your original manual and parts list? Documentation for these machines are available but quality is quite poor most of the time. I think a lot of folks would be really grateful. My 111G156 has a W prefix serial number so the housing was made in Bridgeport but machine was assembled in Karlsruhe, Germany. The badge on your machine makes it a 1960´s made machine though AFAIK the 211 predecessor were made in the 1950´s already. With some luck I can pick up a 212 (double needle) tomorrow and if I´m right it has a 1950´s type Singer badge. So Uwe´s theory could be correct I think.

Your machine is a dedicated binder machine so short stitches are not too unusual. I would say maybe it is the mentioned plate - I´d probably remove it and see if the stitches become longer when you hand crank the machine w/o the plate. Also check your needle plate - maybe you will need one with a longer slot when you increase the stitch length. You know what I mean? I have two list of Pfaff 335 sub classes maybe you can compare the tag on your machine with them to find out more. 335 H3 Subclass Old C.pdf Pfaff 335 Subclass parts.pdf

When I look at the picture, then there is a plate #9626 - any chance that your plate has a shorter slot or small metal pieces behind it that probably cuts the movement of the adjuster knob? I remember I have seen this modification on a Dürkopp 239 machine. I removed it and viola longer stitches! BTW - alway helpful when you post pictures.

Don´t know but I have a picture form a very old 145 parts list and maybe it can give you some hints. The adjuster mechanism should be the same

Are you holding back the thread when you start sewing? You may need to adjust the bobbin case opener. Lower thread coming of the bobbin from the left? Not correctly threaded? Thread braking may have several reasons...

How about keystone Sewing Machine Co. http://store.keysew.com/brands/consew

Don´t know - maybe because he can!

Holy smokes - what a nice machine, too bad you never restored it.

I´m curious... Have you heard of the guy who invented a rotary hook patcher based on the 29K? The Video and music are a pain in TA but maybe something for you as an Engineer:

Funny - the Chinese are able to produce "high class clones" but are not able to copy a simple patcher which has been around for more than 100 years. I´d rather buy a decades old Singer 29K and put $250 of parts in it before I buy any of these Chinese or far east patcher machines.