Constabulary

I have a bunch of Singer machines, even some Made in Germany but as far as I know there is no metric thread so I guess some one tapped / re-tapped the metric threads. regarding gears - I have attached a few pictures of my spare gears, maybe that helps.

is that the Flux Capacitor 2.0?

I have a large hook Minerva needle feed sewing machine on Ebay UK. It comes with an complete extra hook assy and some other bits. Will ship EU wide. Open for offers outside Ebay. LW member will get a much better price when buying outside Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331779809775

I unfortunately do not have a Colibri Patcher to check it. So we have to count on the Glenns expertise

I probably have a shuttle hook and bobbin but I´m not 100% sure if it is the same. Maybe LW member SHOEPATCHER will jump in here - he for sure knows more.

Agree - If you have bought the machine from a dealer I would kick his ass. Anyway better learn how the things work - it will save you $$$ and time.

I wish more folks would share their manuals.

If you can´t lower the bobbin tension you have to increase the top tension - as I said try a heavier spring in your tension assembly. Or maybe something is wrong with your bobbin tension spring (maybe worn). I´d remove the bobbin case and check what going on there. Check the manual it usually tells you what to do when either tension is wrong. I hope you are you worried about turning some screws on your machine. Calling a mechanic for tiny adjustments makes no sense. Maybe you can post pictures or youtube video or the like. Pictures often tell more than 1000 words.

hard to tell from the distance (as often) and the amount of pressure is also hard to explain since there is no dial with digits. Oil sometimes helps or maybe the flanks of the bell crank lever are rubbing too hard against the presser boot bar. Or maybe the thumb screw for the foot pressure is rubbing against the nut next to it (don´t have the parts name on mind right now)...

Hard to tell from the distance. I´d try to lower the bobbin tension even when a mechanic has adjusted it. Make 1/4 turns on the tension screw and check again. I don´t place my self above a mechanic but "adjusted by a mechanic" really means nothing since you never know how qualified a mechanic is. Thread tension adjustment is something you should be able to fix by your self because you have to deal with it more that one time in your life. When you are changing the thread size you most likely have to play with tension again. I don´t know what kind of tension spring you have in your tension assembly but College Sewing in the UK is offering heavier top tension springs for JUKI and they will most likely fir your 211 machine as well. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/B3114-232-000-BEEHIVE-SPRING-HEAVY-JUKI BTW - do you have a manual for your machine? If not get one - it often helps you with a lot of basic adjustments,

Even a mechanic can´t help you? I guess you are talking about top tension, right? You could probably install a heavier top tension spring. Or have you ever lowered the bottom tension? What thread size and what needle size are you using? Have you bought it from a dealer?

A while ago there was a post from someone who had military 153W or 111w parts but I´m not sure what he or she did with them. I would guess the military sold their old stocks at auctions and someone who had no clue what to do with singer parts tossed them away. Wouldn´t be the first time. But I´m sure some stock have survived somewhere in the US but the challenge would be finding them.

but when the tinted clear coat is rubbing off (maybe one day) it looks even uglier. Since the entire machine is not the nicest paint wise (no offense) I´d rather paint the entire machine in silver and put a new black decal on it. In my opinion the best compromise and it looks even better. I once did that when I restored my 29K71.

I´m also not using a knee lifter for me it is more logical to lift the foot by hand but thats just a personal preference. I once had one but it always was in the way - somehow. Then I installed a 2nd pedal as foot lifter - that was much better but since I´m using more than one machine on my machine table I removed it again.

They are not but they are quite nice that´s true. I like machine with a nice appearance. It´s the same as with cars I prefer driving in a clean car rather than in a filthy one. But I don´t have problems with some "signs of use". And so I rather like working with clean machines with nice appearance than with rusty, oil soaked, dusty machines. Thats why I have restored my DVSG / BUSMC #6 from the core. It would have worked as is but isn´t it much nicer when you have a nice looking and clean machine? My machines are by far not perfect (pictures often don´t tell the truth) but I always aim to that they look better than the day I picked them up.

Two sisters

My flat bed was black originally. Later machines had a matching colors on body and flat bed. Sames as with my 307G2 I have seen them with black flat bed and with matching color flat bed.

See above answer #2, #5 - the body still has the original paint + decals - I though it would be obvious.

This is what I have used: http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_aerosol_hammered_finish.jsp But it is by far not quick drying - it always takes at 2 days before you can touch the surface (my experience)

Check the stitch length adjuster - maybe the gib is gone or bent or worn and needs to be replaced or is it is placed on the wrong side (in picture 1 it is placed wrong). It´s parts #17 in picture 1. The gib belongs on the end with the thumb screw. The gib also is flattened on one side. The flattened part has to be up and facing towards the presser foot bar. The squared adjuster piece the thumbscrew goes in also has a flattened part and here the flattened parts had to be down. Hope you know what I mean. If this does not help I´d take the head apart and clean it. You never know what kind of dirt the machine has collected over the years. Always good to post some good detailed pictures of your machine so maybe someone sees if there is something wrong.

that's still the original - I only have painted the lid, face plate and flat bed. I just wanted to show the difference between original paint and Hammerite silver.

or short cutler rivets http://usaknifemaker.com/accessories/knife-accessories-101/sheaths/sheath-supplies/cutlers-rivets-in-brass-60-to-95-long.html

Maybe LW member UWE can give you some hints for taking good pictures

It´s quite cheap but very good in my opinion but I don´t think you´ll have this brand on your part of the world but who knows http://www.ebay.de/itm/3x-KWASNY-Spraila-Lackspray-Schwarz-Glanzend-400-ml-300005-/272119643735?hash=item3f5b983e57:g:E-EAAOSwMmBVzGRh more: http://www.kwasny.com/en/products/economy-range/spraila/spraila-paint-sprays/

Sorry but this picture really tells nothing and people still don´t know where you are located. Good luck with this sale.