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Constabulary

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  1. Last weekend I found this 29K (built in 1905) and figured the tag says 29 K.S.V 3 - so obviously a Special Version (or variant) of the 29K cobbler machine. The only obvious difference compared with a 29K3 is that the 29K S.V. 3 has two threaded holes in the lower arm. This most likely is for attaching a binder attachment. I have no proof for this but I guess the threads are for a binder attachment. I just wanted to share some pictures because there are not many of them around and even on Needlebar.org or ISMACS I wasn't able to find further information.
  2. straight is more for long seams and the roller for rounded items like sewing curves and the like.
  3. This is the drop down edge guide from College Sewing I told you about. It comes with a replaceable straight edge guide and roller guide tip. But you have to drill holes and tap threads.
  4. That was one step. Please post more pictures or maybe a Video. There are several reason why a machine will not sew. Sometimes it is just a small detail. How is the shuttle threaded? Are you sure you are using the right needle?
  5. post some more detailed pictures of your machine. Sometimes parts are wrong assembled (especially on the back side). I just have a very similar machine on my bench (a 29K3) which I have stripped down to the last pin.
  6. I have sent you the manual by Email - hope the file was not too big.
  7. The G157 is a "standard machine" with small hook and reverse there is nothing special on if not converted for special purposes. Stitch length should be approx. 4.2mm. Look for 211W157 should be the same machine but made in the US instead of made in Germany.
  8. You probably need a new bobbin case fort he 138. Do you have a manual for the machine?
  9. What needle system are you using? Have you insert the needle correctly? Have you threaded the machines correctly? Do you have manuals for either machine? If the shuttle is too loose you probably have to adjust the small spring on the shuttle carrier a little bit. The spring should barely touch the shuttle and push it slightly against the side of the gear box. You can also move the needle holder a bit to the right maybe that will help picking up the thread. Loosen the screw above the needle screw and try to move the needle holder a bit to the right. If it will not move it is probably gummed up so you have to remove the holder and clean it an then try again. Some detailed pictures would probably help to find out what is going on.
  10. I think there are no serial # data available from Adler. If it has an aluminum tag on the backside it at least from the 1970´s AFAIK. But maybe you can post some pictures of your machine.
  11. I have to look for the file. I had them on a separate hard drive which is crashed I hope I can restore the files.
  12. Seems you installed the gib on the wrong side. It belongs on the side with the thumb screw with the small notch on the upside - if you know what I mean.
  13. Well these are high speed garment sewing machines. I´m sure they can sew leather of 3mm thickness but I´doubt you will be lucky with these machines. How much are the machines? I would not sink too much money in a garment sewing machine. Check out this thread it may help you finding a good leather sewing machine:
  14. To give you an idea of the parts prices, here is a German supplier: http://www.wdn.de/artsearchresult.php?STICHWORT=30-1&x=0&y=0
  15. The Adler 30-1 is using some of the Singer 29K parts (hook, bobbin and afaik bell crank lever and maybe a few more). You never know if the machine has been refurnished / repainted or not so I would not count on the color alone. The 30-1 technically remained pretty much the same over the decades beside color, housing, thread adjuster thumb screw and maybe a few minor parts but I don´t recall any further. I don´t know sources for Adler 30-1 parts in the US but in case you will need spare parts you probably will pay more for parts than for the machine. Adler parts are VERY expensive. Thats a fact you should keep in mind when buying an older Adler machine. If I had to choose between a 30-1 and lets say a Singer 29K73 I would always take the Singer. The later Singer models are technically much more advanced. And don´t buy that Adler 30-1 are more reliable or "more heavy duty" or better built than the Singer patchers. I have restored both and the parts are pretty much all the same kind there is nothing heavier in the Adler or the Singer - maybe the weight of the housing but that's unimportant. Both machines are doing the exact same job. But I have to admit that the treadle base on the Adler 30-1 have heavier / larger balance wheels (if still original base). regarding color black are the oldest, followed by the greenish and then the light grey (if not repainted) EDIT Door bell rang - took too long to write - I knew Glenn will jump in here
  16. you can probably turn the foot bar by 90° so it can accommodate the 111type feet - maybe
  17. Seems to be in relatively good condition but I assume the flat bed has been repainted but that's nothing unusual. looks pretty much like the one I once have seen. Trimmer seems to be removed but I don´t see a stitch length adjuster mechanism. When you open the lid on the top right do you see a dial with numbers?
  18. I just wanted to have it mentioned.
  19. sure, oil has nothing to do with the machine it self but I have seen a 111G116 once and I had the the impression that you cannot adjust the stitch length at this particular model. If I remember correctly it had no dial for indicating the stitch length and just one plunger in the flat bed for reengaging the safety clutch but non for the stitch length. The one I have seen also had different presser feet and no "standard" needle plate so be careful with this model!!! Also the hook is not on the right side, it is placed on the left side (usually no big issue). Have you already bought the machine?
  20. 29K and Adler 30 are using the same feet and some other parts are interchangeable as well. You could also try heat shrink tubing.
  21. I´m not 100% sure but aren´t the 111G116 and 111G117 machines with a fixed stitch length? They are quite special purpose machines if I remember correctly. Can you post some pictures of your machine?
  22. Holy smokes - Uwe - thats by far the best instruction Video I ever have seen. THANK YOU!!!!! Some clever sewing machine dealers should REALLY open their mind and hire you for their product Videos - I´m serious!
  23. The needle size in relation to the thread size and needle tip pattern is also quite important!
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