Constabulary

@ teched if you don´t mind can you make a PDF file from your original manual and parts list? Documentation for these machines are available but quality is quite poor most of the time. I think a lot of folks would be really grateful. My 111G156 has a W prefix serial number so the housing was made in Bridgeport but machine was assembled in Karlsruhe, Germany. The badge on your machine makes it a 1960´s made machine though AFAIK the 211 predecessor were made in the 1950´s already. With some luck I can pick up a 212 (double needle) tomorrow and if I´m right it has a 1950´s type Singer badge. So Uwe´s theory could be correct I think.

Your machine is a dedicated binder machine so short stitches are not too unusual. I would say maybe it is the mentioned plate - I´d probably remove it and see if the stitches become longer when you hand crank the machine w/o the plate. Also check your needle plate - maybe you will need one with a longer slot when you increase the stitch length. You know what I mean? I have two list of Pfaff 335 sub classes maybe you can compare the tag on your machine with them to find out more. 335 H3 Subclass Old C.pdf Pfaff 335 Subclass parts.pdf

When I look at the picture, then there is a plate #9626 - any chance that your plate has a shorter slot or small metal pieces behind it that probably cuts the movement of the adjuster knob? I remember I have seen this modification on a Dürkopp 239 machine. I removed it and viola longer stitches! BTW - alway helpful when you post pictures.

Don´t know but I have a picture form a very old 145 parts list and maybe it can give you some hints. The adjuster mechanism should be the same

Are you holding back the thread when you start sewing? You may need to adjust the bobbin case opener. Lower thread coming of the bobbin from the left? Not correctly threaded? Thread braking may have several reasons...

How about keystone Sewing Machine Co. http://store.keysew.com/brands/consew

Don´t know - maybe because he can!

Holy smokes - what a nice machine, too bad you never restored it.

I´m curious... Have you heard of the guy who invented a rotary hook patcher based on the 29K? The Video and music are a pain in TA but maybe something for you as an Engineer:

Funny - the Chinese are able to produce "high class clones" but are not able to copy a simple patcher which has been around for more than 100 years. I´d rather buy a decades old Singer 29K and put $250 of parts in it before I buy any of these Chinese or far east patcher machines.

I have set my servos to 2700 rps max speed and the speed 3:1 (150mm : 50mm) reducer doest the rest. I´m using JACK Servo motors from College Sewing with 750Watts I have no problems all with the speed control. Both are brushless servos. Servos stop as well when you step off the pedal. The brush type motor have a mechanical brake and the brushless have a magnetic brake AFAIK.

Maybe a machine pedestal is an idea for you: http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/99955-577172-jet-pedestal-stand-grinding-buffing-machine-accessories.html But you still may need a plywood board or the like.

maybe bolt the stand on a 3/4" plywood board that sticks out to the left at least 2' or 3' and you can put a pedal on it as well.

Dikman - I can send you a few if you want. Maybe we can trade for potatoes @ Uwe - what we know as Kiwis originally came from China.

Not bad - good luck with the machines

Not sure if you will be pleased with the 236 they usually have quite short stitch length of approx 3 - 3.5mm. I´d test sew it before you buy it. Take your leather and thread to the seller and test it. Thats better than a thousand words. 236G is made in Germany 236W is made in the USA

always something new to learn in the world of sewing machines Holy smokes

I just have checked a 236 manual and found this picture:

I also wanted to buy a 236 once but machine was too bad and the timing belt was broken... Anyway, the 236 I looked at had a stitch length adjuster on the left side of the bed but I guess you have to flip back the machine for adjusting the stitch length (I looked at the head only). But it probably depends on the subclass, maybe some may have a set stitch length.

When it works w/o needle plate I would guess the feed dog is hitting or rubbing on the needle plate so you have to lower it a little bit. Right feed dog hight is when the feed dog sticks out of the needle plate approx. a tooth hight or approx 0.8 - 1mm Also make sure the little tongue of the bobbin case is inside the notch of the needle plate This just a suggestion since I don´t the machine in front of me. I also have attached a 563 manual that came form Keystone Sewing Machine Co. It maybe helpful for the future. Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

The Singer 144 are very similar http://www.singermachines.co.uk/indstbooks.htm http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/SINGER%20SERVICE%20BOOK.htm

I once have sent Leder Elbert a request for a die but never heard from them. Try this seller: http://www.brandt-stanzmesser.de/pages/stanzmesser.html I have not bought dies from him but was in his shop when I picked up a small pneumatic clicker - he has a nice machine range! Also a nice person to talk to - really! When I will need some dies he is the first one I will ask for a quote.

I doubt you will see a difference in the stitch pattern. Both machines are using the same needles. So it pretty much depends on the thread and needle combination and the top and bottom tension. I would not consider the 132K6 as compound feed, it is a top and bottom feed machine. The CB-105 is a pure drop feed (bottom feed) machine. I´d rather consider the CB-3200 compound feed machine. I think it will serve you better. There are at least 2 dealers in Australia who can support you with either machine (I think) One is Steve's Industrial Leather Sewing Machines I don´t know if they have a website but he is member here - member ID is SINGERMANIA But they are on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Steves-Industrial-Leather-Sewing-Machines-345144232177296/ The other is Darren Brosowski from ABLE Sewing I´m sure he will jump on here pretty soon

One question is do you need a flat bed or a cylinder arm? The 132K6 is a flat bed machine and the CB-105 is a cylinder army machine as it seem but you probably can add a flat bed attachment. The 123K6 has a large rotary hook and the CB 105 and osculating shuttle hook. I don´t know the CB-105 (or Cowboy 2500?) but it appears to be a Singer 45K clone and when you buy it form a dealer with good reputation I´m sure the machine will serve you well. Advantage of the CB-105 is that is has reverse the 132k has not. Where are you located - USA, Canada, Australia, Europe?

Pictures always tell more than 1000 words. I guess you have the parts list for the Pfaff 38. If not google is your friend Pfaff usually has nice detailed exploded view drawings so you should see what parts belong to the tension unit and how it is assembled.