Constabulary

2006 Mazda 6 Station Wagon - can I play with you guys or am I out? Guess I´m out, right?

hard to judge all the machines by just seeing the few picture but I can tell you what I would do - I would buy the 1245. The 1246 has an additional puller feed - not sure if you need this - I don´t. The 196 H3 is a double needle machine - not sure if you need this - I don´t. The LH-515 is also a double needle machine and has some extra attachment on the backside (left side) - maybe also a puller feed - I don´t need it. Necchi is a known Italian brand but I guess parts are harder to find than for old Singer 45K machines (at least in my part of the world) - so I would not buy it at all. But that does nor mean it is a bad machine. All are fine machines but it depends on if you need the features they have. So I would buy the 1245 - has compound / triple feed, has a great price & is an up to date model as it seems. I´d add a speed reducer and a new servo motor (or has it one already?) and then I would be good with it. Just my 2 cents - only from examining the pictures and w/o goggling.

Well, that is a high speed garment sewing machine not really a leather worker sewing machine. It´s probably fine for thin garment type leather but nothing for heavy work. Since you have the original manual it should give you good instructions and should also show the needle and thread size this machine was made for. It has an oil pump that needs high speed to lubricate the oil spots. Slowing down sewing speed only works with a smaller motor pulley + speed reducer or servo motor + speed reducer. Ceck LW.net for Consew 230: https://www.google.de/search?q=Consew+230&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=ouALVeWVKMjxUv3pg_gN#q=Consew+230+site:leatherworker.net I´d sell it and save for a 111 type walking foot machine or s/t similar if you don´t sew thicker than 7-9mm

Nice description, Amuckart!!!! I absolutely agree that disassembling / reassembling is a good learning but it always depends a lot on what skills you have. And I absolutely understand when someone wants to do it. But be careful.

I would not disassemble it when it is sewing - keep it that way. Maybe do some fine tuning of hook / needle bar timing and then it should be good. I´d just thoroughly clean it and oil it well and if necessary give it a new paint job on the outside. Always keep in mind that you probably can damage parts when you disassemble / reassemble it. And you know how hard to find the external parts for the 45K are and the chances are rare that you will find any of the internal parts!!!! And even if you find some it will make the restoration even more expensive. Needle / hook timing is quite an easy task (usually) since the needle is just going up and down and not forwards and backwards (no needle feed). Usually the hook tip should meet the needle scarf about 2.5mm above the needle eye. You just have to loosen the 2 screws on the needle bar clamp and move the needle bar up or down until it meets the scarf.

I just wanted to say that these two parts from College Sewing where crap and all other parts are good! No missing parts! The washer is a bit different... I´d say the 4-1 is a reworked Adler 4-1 with a Singer decal. I don´t think that Singer sold Adler machines at that stage. Singer still sold the 45K89 in the 1960´s as far as I know and the Adler 4-1 w/o reverse would have been a step back. And Adler already had the greenish 104 + 105 on the market

I would buy it but would try to beat down the price a little bit. I have attached a manual for this machine. This Video is quite interesting for you I think - its for the 111w151 (needle feed) but it is very similar to the 111w153 (compound feed / triple feed) 111W152_153_154_155.pdf

I know College Sewing very well, I`m buying most of my parts from them. I bought the spring you have linked but it is too short and too weak and I have bought this disc: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/3071-TENSION-RELEASE-WASHER-SEIKO But the disc is too hard, you cannot adjust the small tab w/o braking it. But everything else was of really good quality and I had no problems!!!

Where do you live? I can recommend JACK Servo Motors from College Sewing in the UK but when you live in the US it makes no sense. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/SewingMachineServoMotors

ha ha ha - yes, Indeed a German Singer man but that just happened - I never really had the intension of only owning / buying Singers. I have tried many machines (lots of trial and error). I just kept what suited best for my needs and one reason for keeping a machine always was (and still is) the availability of spare parts w/o calling dealer all over the the world. And thats a big advantage for the Singers or their clones. For all machines I own a good number of spare parts are available for reasonable prices. And so far all after market parts I have bought are of good quality (with two exceptions - a 133K tension release disc and a 29K shuttle carrier spring). The only exception is the 307G2 but I figured a lot of parts from other Singer machines fit. (hook, feed dog, throat plate....) But everybody has his preferences and meanwhile I really like the the "idea" of old Singers. But I honestly don`t care of who copied from who. I just don´t think the 45K is an Adler 4 / 5 clone. I`m also convinced that the Adler 4 is the better built machine. Some of the last Singer industrial machines are indeed made by Adler or copied from their machines like 45A, 169, 220 and I think some other Adler machines with Singer labels. Belief it or not - a couple of weeks ago I have seen a Claes / Textima patcher (one of the latest models) and it had a Singer decal on the upper arm. Nothing is impossible in this business....

It obviously needs some TLC but when the machine is functional I´d say for $200 I think is not too bad. But maybe you can beat down the price a little bit. You probably have to invest in a new servo motor and maybe a speed reducer. The machine has no reverse. I would guess it can sew 7-9mm thick (I have a 111G156 and it sews 9mm w/o problems). The max. stitch length usually is 5 SPI on these older 111 machines. I can sew up to 207 thread with mine but usually they are set up for 138 with a size 22 needle. Check the condition of the timing belt. Replacing it causes a lot of work but it is doable. Always test a machine before you buy it!!!

Glen, I have found another patcher brand GOERICKE, Bielefeled (once again a CO. from Bielefeld) also sold a Duerkopp type patcher The writing says "GOERICKES ORIGINAL SCHUHMACHER MASCHINE" GOERICKE was known for bicycles and motorcycles (at least in Germany)

I personally would not buy this machine form Ebay not only because it is dead ugly! Gump already hit the nail on the head. Check with Toledo Sewing Machine Co. There you get approx. the same machine (but with 1/2" foot lift) for $30 more including a 3:1 Speed reducer a much larger machine pulley / balance wheel (as it seems) and with great support and warranty. And I would assume it is even better built but I don´t know for sure. Add $300 and you have a reverse Add another $300 and you have a 441 type machine with walking foot mechanism with all advantages. Check out Toledos CB3200 I think in the long view this is a much better investment than this ebay thing. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html

I don't agree with this theory (Class 4 + 5 >> 45K). As far as I know Singer already produced 45K´s when Adler was still producing the Class 3 which is the predecessor of the Class 4. 45K flat bed and Adler Class4 are a bit different - the 45K´s are shorter than the Adler Class 4. Therefore I´d say the Class 4 is rather an improvement of the 45K. I don't think Singer would produce shorter machines when they copy something. But thats just my theory w/o proof.

many thanks to tboyce (for all your pattern work) & opus56 (very nice and simple design - very cool!!!)

or buy a new one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-111W-HOOK-DRIVING-SHAFT-LOCK-STUD-PART-240244-/120926491847?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c27c7d4c7 As far as I know Consew is using the same parts as singer so this one should be the one or this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-111W-FEED-REGULATING-STUD-PART-240235-/120926491836?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c27c7d4bc

maybe the foot lifts not high enough - can you adjust the foot litf hight on your machine?

you are welcome. Of course youtube.... I wasn´t thinking. So your machine is running now?

I have added one to my Singer 111 a couple of weeks ago - they are great! Mine has two changeable guides - one roller and one straight.

Realy A Cool Bag - guess your daugther is pround of it! Will you share the measures or pattern?

Me too - its a hobby for me and I absolutely understand your point - It´s not that I haven´t had this idea but I honesty don`t dare to order from China! I´m not a mechanical embryo but setting up this type of machine from zero isn`t something I would dare! I´m sure I have seen a video where Steve was explaining several adjustments on the Cobra 4 but don´t know where it was. I remember he explained something like how to line up screws with markings or so (view from the backside) but I honestly don´t know where I have seen the video.

Yah - the different needle systems suck - I fortunately can use 135x17 / 135x16 on all my machines except the 133K. The 135x17 (for fabric) or 135x16 (for leather) are slightly longer that the 135-34 so you probably have to rise your needle bar a tiny bit if the machine is setup for 135-34. Well it is possible that your 267 is setup for 180 needles but I think they are factory set to 140/22. When you are using thicker needles you may need a feed dog with wider hole (because of thicker needle + thicker thread) and maybe have to move the hook saddle a tiny bit to the right to give the thicker thread more space to slip through the gap between the small tongue of the bobbin basket and needle plate. You know what I mean? Maybe the former owner has set it up for 180 needles already - I dunno. I´d also check the setting of your bobbin case opener. It ensures that the thread can slip through w/o problems. EDIT: TROX used Tkt 15 thread - that is about 207 in the US and this thread needs a 160/23 needle. You are using a 180/24 needle so I´d say it is too thick for your machine. Try your 130/21 needle with a 138 or 92 thread - maybe that works better.

Direct from China? Seems you have learned the lesson the hard way (no offence). I think Leather Machine Co. has a Video on Youtube on how to adjust the Cobra machines. Maybe this will help you.

Are you probably using the wrong needle type? Adler 267 needs 134-35 (DPx35) needles afaik. A size 180/24 needles is too thick I´d say. I think 140/22 is the max. recommended by Adler. I have not worked on a 267 yet. The 1.6mm above the needle eye is where the hook meets the needle scarf on 111 and 227 (Singer 153) type machines with a 135x17 (DPx35) needle in general. This describes the point where the hook catches the loop approx. at its widest point. The rise after BDC at 111 and 227 machines is usually is 2.5mm. I don´t know how much internal technical difference is between the 111 and the the 267. But seems your manual says 1.8mm - 2.00mm after BDC so I would assume the needle is the problem.

Check if one of the set screws is loose and rubbing on a gear. Turn the fly wheel by hand and watch the gears. If not I would say Pcox is rigth