Constabulary

All feet are sold now!

You cannot adjust the hook hight. If the hook is not meeting the needle scarf as mentioned above you have to adjust the needle bar. You most likely have to lower it a little bit.

This is normal, there should be about 3-4mm (haven' t measured it). Here is a picture of how it looks at my 29K71

Holy cow - your machine really needs a god cleaning! If the brush is not enough to remove the dirt use some kerosene. it will help to remove the old gummed up oil + grease. After that oil the entire machine thoroughly.

Check if you have insert the needle correctly and if the needle scarf is facing straight toward the hook. Check at which point the hook tip meets the needle scarf. The hook tip should meet the needle scarf about 1.6mm above the needle eye when the needle bar is in the upwards movement. Thats what I´d check first.

On Craigslist you sometimes really can make a snap. A couple of weeks ago the member " Hi I´m Joe" has found a really nice Adler industrial walking foot machine for a bargain price. But in most cases the machines need some cleaning & adjustments. And for $200 you cannot expect the most. But without knowing what machine you have found no one can help you. Treadle machines are often just small domestic machines and do not have the strength for leather work and have a limitation on needle sizes. Post some pictures or the maker + model number and I´m sure you will get some statements.

BTW - the 130 (metric size) needle should not bee to thick for leather. It´s rather a too thin thread you are using the 130 (21) needle is for 92 or 138 thread. Are you using leather point needles or round tip? The round tip are meant for clothing and and not for leather. This has been linked a couple of times already but this chart from Toledo Sewing is quite helpful to figure the needle / thread combination: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Print it out and so you always have it at hand

the Consew 225 is a clone of the Singer 111w and the 111w is the forerunner of the Singer 211. So the main information should be the same in your manual. But I will upload a Singer 211 manual for you: 221G155_211G156.pdf

Some pictures of the manuals. Original 132K and 133K are rare as the hens teeth! For these 3 I have no use so if someone is interested. I´d trade or sell them. Now regarding the feed dogs for the 132K and 133K - I have 2 different statements from dealers - one says the 132K feed dogs DO NOT fit for the 133K and the other says they DO fit. So maybe someone can shed some light on this as I don´t like buying parts "just to try" and then returning them because they don´t fit.

K6 is the subclass I guess. I think you have a 132K6, right? Toledo Sewing has a nice chart for needle & thread combinations: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

machine works really nice but the feed dog is quite worn so the stitches are quite inconsistent. Seems I have to hunt for a new feed dog or I will try to make one. I have some feed dogs + throat plates for the Adler 104 which "could" be tooled (cutting + welding) to fit for the 133K3. Or is there a chance that you have a feed dog for me? Singer 132B2B is something I´d really like to have but no way to find them over here I think - but never say never. BTW - any chance that you are interested in some ORIGINAL Singer 132K and 133K manuals? Will add some pictures in the days to come.

They are sold already. I had two of them but they are gone. But "modern" thread lubricating boxes are available on Ebay or at the known sewing machine dealers.

to me it looks as if the spring at the shuttle carrier that pushes the shuttle hook against the gear box housing needs an adjustment or to be replaced.

Just painted the rest, assembled the head and put everything else together - runs very well so far. I haven´t timed it yet but is makes 4.5mm - 5mm stitches in cardboard. Pretty good result. If I had no other patcher I´d keep it but my Singer runs a bit smoother and is more compact. Olive Drab is not everybody's cup of tea but I think it is quite nice. Next challenge will be the treadle stand. I think I have to fully disassemble it and grind off the paint.

checked with my friend - his 211 has just one button. Seems I mixed up something.

I have worked on a friends 211 but I could swear it had 2 buttons but you for sure know better

Motor works with all of the mentioned machines as it is connected with a V-belt. But be careful, this is a high speed motor with 3400 rpm. I would either add a small 2" pulley and / or a speed reducer or replace the motor with a new servo motor and if you need extra torque then add a speed reducer too. Measure the cut out in your table and compare it with the measures of the machine you are going to buy. The cut out may fit but the hinges maybe different.

I´d assume that your stitch length adjuster is gummed up with old oil and grease. Another member recently had a similar issue with a Singer 111 which has the same regulator, so check this thread, maybe it will help you. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=58390&p=375555 I hope this helps. BTW - Have you pushed the left or the right plunger? The left one is for the stitch regulator and the right one of the safety clutch.

When the machine has a thread in the upper shaft where the hand wheel is it should be possible. And I´m sure it will have one. Normally there is a screw which is meant for fixing or adjusting the position of the hand wheel on the upper shaft. When you are buying a servo motor with NPS most of the time there are 2 adapters for the synchronizer with different threading or separate screws for attaching the adapter to the shaft are included. But it can happen that the thread will not fit for your machine (as on my Singer 111G156) and then you have to make your own adapter (as I did). I just cut off the threaded part, drilled a hole in the adapter and put a screw in that fits. I figured that the NPS on my Servo does not work when I have installed a speed reducer but without the speed reducer the NPS works! Just a hint for the case you want to install a speed reducer as well. I took my NPS synchronizer off as I`m sewing slow and can watch the needle where it stops so I don´t need the NPS. I have ordered my two servos motors from College Sewing in the UK Hope this helps

Yes, my 29K73 is a nice to have machine. I get about 4.5mm stitches out of it so it is worth to keep it. I only use it fore repairs in tight spaces or inside bags and so forth. I just use it once or twice a month. I just have repaired a 1943 dated .30M1 Carbine pouch for a friend thasts what it is really good for! I´m curious how long the stitches of th 30-1 will be. Since the bell cranks looks quite nice it could be the full 5 SPI if I have luck. We will see...

My fault - I have have a 29K71 and not 29K73

Before you invest a lot of money you should know that when your machine is making very small stitches like 3mm or so It could become an expensive repair as a lot of parts will be worn out!!! I bought my 29K71 for 40€ but had to invest about 150€ -180€ but the parts where all available as it is one of the latest models Singer made. You have one oft he oldest models so most likely it could be a problem to find the parts. You can get a lot of 29K parts form College Sewing in the UK but I don´t know if they will fit for your 29K3. You can find the small rollers at College Sewing but I don´t know if they will fit for your machine - measure yours and ask them. If the needle is too far on the left the only thing you can do is to loosen the 4 screws that hold the bottom and the top housing together and TRY to move the top housing a little bit to the right and then fasten the screws again. If there is play around the shuttle either the gear box housing is worn off or rust has eaten the material (you never know as it is a very old machine and you said it was rusted) or the the shuttle is worn (is it a new or used one?) or you have to replace the small spring that holds the shuttle in place as the small spring is pushing the shuttle against the housing. A few pictures could help...

Sounds like a pretty much worn machine! Anyway... First of all you should download a parts list for your machine so you hopefully can identify the spare parts you need. It´s always good when you have the spare parts number when you are hunting for parts. You can find it here: http://www.hendersonsewing.com/manual.asp?page=63 Look for the 29K1 - this will cover your model as well.

Don´t say that - I`m a bit "Singer crazy"! The big advantage of the 29k73 is that it is shorter and not as heavy as the 30-1 so I think I will keep my 29K73 - hopefully! Furthermore the spare parts situation is much much better for the 29K73. For example - the only needle bar I have found for the 30-1 costs 320€ (not $) and the needle bar for my 29K73 was just about 30€ and that is just one example. Hell - I could buy TEN Singer needle bars or just one Adler needle bar for about the same money! BTW - I think I will check if the needle bars are interchangeable... just as the shuttle hook and presser foot are. Adler spare parts are extremely expensive in Germany. They are probably original Adler parts (but who knows) but I can spend my money just once and I try to get the most out of it so I think I will keep my Singer but we will see...

This is for sure factory made. Other models also have a long arm version, this is noting unusual.