Constabulary

@ CD I know there is not much thread but maybe a bit of loctite

I´m just trying the electrolysis thing for the 1st time. I have a tub full of water / soda solution (about 40 liters water + 250gramms soda) and I`m soaking a complete housing Singer 29K1 cobbler machine in it. I have checked it a couple of times and it really works well. Its seems to remove the old paint too. The old ornamentation decals are gone already and the old paint is starting to crinkle. Not sure if this is the result of the electrolysis or the permanent contact with the water / soda solution.

Online tracking says that the package is close to you.... Thats was surprisingly fast I though it would take longer because of all the Christmas mail.

Ah okay - I just thought the combination of a Russian machine and the Mansfeld machine from Leipzig could locate you to Germany (former GDR area or so). Is it a video of your machine? if so - I think in the beginning of the Video you pull the thread under the spring but then pull it too far - this is what I at least amuse because for a few seconds I can´t see the the bobbin case.... In case the hook does not catch the loop of the top thread properly you can try to adjust the hight of the needle bar the way that the hook meets the scarf of the needle about 1.5 - 2mm above the needle eye. This is where the loop is caught by the hook usually. I´m sorry but I really have no experience with this machine (I wish I had). So this is all I could help you with. But you could try to contact the Leather Worker member SINGERMANIA - he is from Australia and has a lot off odd and rare machines so this would be the person I´d ask first!

@cascabel It´s nice to have these opportunities! As far as I know the bell crank lever and the motion ring have an effect on the stitch length. Maybe the cam and the roller on the motion ring bar have an effect as well but I´m not sure. Just finished painting some parts and started reassembling.

I guess you are from Germany, right? Well Christian Mansfeld machines are not wide spread I think. I assume yours was made prior WWI so the chance to find parts or accessories is not very good. Seems the cover plate for the hook is missing - do you have it or is it gone? The the bottom thread should "come out" under a spring and not in the middle of the hook but I don´t know the machine and its mechanics but thats at least how it usually works. A similar one is on Ebay Germany so maybe you can contact the seller maybe he can give you some information http://www.ebay.de/itm/281539202786?clk_rvr_id=755171170798&rmvSB=true

I usually use oxalic acid but the electric thing is worth a try

WOW - thats an awesome idea - wood and leather!!! I like it!

@ Raven I have never tried to remove anything from a mounted head. I´m not sure but I think you cannot remove the bell crank lever w/o taking off the head and the needle bar. The head is just mounted with 4 screws and you have to remove the pin the needle bar is mounted to the long skeleton lever with - thats it. And a thorough cleaning and oiling may improve the performance. To remove the bell crank lever from the head you have to take off just 4 small screws. 2 that mounts the revolving handle to the revolving bushing and 2 small hinge screws that hold the bell crank lever on the revolving lever. But I honestly think it is the better idea to take the head off and even disassemble, clean and oil it. It looks like a lot of parts but it really is not a big task I´d say. You of course have to be a bit patients but its worth it. The 29K is such a simple machine, there is not much you can do wrong! @ cascabel I´m sure it is the same - the difference between the 29K1 and 29K4 is that the 29K4 is for "waxed thread" so I think it just has the oil cup mounted and it has a side wheel. Welding the bell crank lever will do the job I think - question is how much material you need but you`ll figure it out.

Most parts are clean now just some screw still need some TLC and I have not taken the gearbox apart. @ Raven College Sewing is closed until January 2nd - just for the case you will place an order.

@ Raven Yes - thats the one! I just compared the parts and they are quite identical as far as I can tell. The only significant difference is that the feeding motion ring "thing" oft he 29K1 has curved angles where the bar meets the ring and the 29K71 is perfect 90° angled. Till try to install the two 29K1 parts in my 29K71 ans will see what is happening.

Maybe Leather Machine Co. Not close to you but they are at least in the south of the US and they have a very good reputation too. Cobrasteve is also a member here. www.leathermachineco.com

@Kidbee Yes, I know it and it is quite impressive what he did but the bell crank lever is just 13.50 GBP at College Sewing and It really seems to be the same as in the 29K71 so for that money I don`t start trial and error with sheet brass. I decided to rip the 29K71 head apart later today and take a closer look at the lever and compare it with the one from 29K1. I think that could be helpful for other folks who want to restore a 29K in the future. The parts # are different but you never know.... Later...

Just a short statement - I have to run... Both are excellent machines! The 105-64 is a heavy duty needle feed machine. The Paff 545 is a walking foot / triple feed medium duty machine for 9-10mm materials.You will probably end with two machines (maybe the two mentioned) sooner or later so you don´t have to change the settings when you switch to another project - if you know what I mean. I meanwhile have 4 machines and I´m sure I will have one or two more sooner or later. If you have the chance to buy both I would do it if you have the money. Merry Christmas

Ripped everything apart and checked the wear of the parts. I´m really surprised that the revolving head and the feeding motion ring "thing" still fit very tight and the rollers all look nice. I really have expected much more wear on this "boat anchor" considering how it looked from the outside. I get ~ 7 - 6.5 SPI out of it before cleaning - not very good but could be worst. The bell crank lever thing is quite worn but seems it is the same as in my 29K71 so I will order one. The inside of the motion ring thing does not look worn so I will keep the old one for now and will see how it performs with the new bell crank lever. Next step - parts cleaning - new paint job - order some parts... Merry Christmas

Nice stand ! A new paint job really makes a difference!

I think most of the modern machines have reverse if not all. You should note the reverse lever. You will probably never get an maintenance records for older sewing machines - I have never seen one except a small sticker of the last dealer that worked on it or sold it. Juki 563 is for sure an excellent machine but it depends - you never know where and for what these machines were used. But I personally never failed with used sewing machines. I have restored all machines I have in use and I`m not a mechanic and they all work absolutely smooth (as long as you use them for what they were made for oil them and keep them clean). My oldest is from 1932 and the newest from 1967. These older machines are built like tanks and they will probably live for a few more decades. I´d consider what kind of work you have, how thick you will sew and how long you need the stitch length. If you know fore sure (really for sure) you will not go over 9mm and don't need stitches longer than 5mm (5 per inch) then an older used machine could save you a lot of money. These are the standard specs on most older Singer 111w type sewing machines with walking foot - a few may sew a bit thicker and have a bit longer stitches but thats pretty much the standard. But when you know you will sew thicker than 9mm and need longer stitches you probably have to look for a newer model like the Juki Wiz recommended. I think the new machines will have a Servo motor. I personally would not like to use a clutch motor again. I´m glad mine are gone! If the Juki 563 has a clutch I´d replace it anyway. I´d look for an instruction manual online and check the specs of the machine. But I´m sure it will be a good purchase if it is full functional - how much is the seller asking for it? - My 2 cents -

If it has a tag with ornameted border it was made 1951 or after and the in the 1960´s they switched to a smaller and more colorful tag. But don´t know the year.

I´d try to reduce the foot presure. I have almost zero foot presure on my center foot but I´m using a Singer 111. Merry Christmas

too large hole and / or too much foot pressures - what machine are you using?

All parts are present. I just took them off for oiling.

Found a 1905 made 29K1 boat anchor today Soaked it in oil for a coupe of hours and figured this thing really turns surprisingly smooth. Generally I would not buy such an extremely old patcher but for the price of three 24 packs of beer I could not resist and the extra needle holder + two shuttles that came with it looked good (one Singer, one Adler). These parts alone are worth the money I think. Seems the shuttle carrier is bent but thats no big deal. I will polish the needle plate and see how it is feeding and how long the stitches are. If not good I´ll rip it apart for parts or so. What I have learned so far is that this one has no stitch length indicator and the foot lifts when you push down the loot lift lever... So I have some work when Christmas becomes boring. To bee continued.... Merry Christmas everyone

What needle system are you using? The 29K takes 29x3 / 29x4 or 135x16 / 135x17 needles

I´m looking for a pattern or template for making authentic / correct knife sheath for the PAL RH36 Knife (6" blade). This is a pretty simple one but so far I have not found anything close. I think they are a bit like the KA-BAR MKII sheath but narrower and they have a line 20 snap. Maybe someone can help me with this. Or does someone know where I could buy sheath kits?

The Brother DB2 is a high speed garment sewing machine. It may handle garment leather but not heavy leather for holsters.