Constabulary

when I look closer with an sharp eye - I think this could even be a 111 walking foot machine (not needle feed + even better) - do you have a shot from the backside? I also have Singer 111 machine but with reverse (111G156) and it works nice nice nice and the condition s about the same as yours - as far as I can tell from the picture - and before I have restored it. These are tough build machines - probably made in the 1940´s - 1950´s but parts are no problem. How much do you have to pay for it?

Frankqv - just today I was able to acquire some Adler 5 feet - I think they could fit for your 45K. Maybe you are interested. I´ll post some pictures of the parts I have found tomorrow and link them here.

Awesome - well done!!!

when you remove the nut of the tension controller, then the tension spring follows and behind the spring is a disc with a small tab / bar in the center. (see picture) and when this little tab is not correctly adusted - meaning when it is adjusted to far towards the machine (when disc is installed) you have a permanent thread release and when it is adusted to the other side you have no thread release when you lift the foot lever. So it is a bit of trial and error.

In the tension assembly is a small disc with a small bar in the center. You can adjust this little bar a tinny bit but when it is adjusted too much toward the machine you have a permanent thread release and don´t get the top tension right. Just tap this little bar a tiny bit toward the operator and see if it helps.

Looks like a Singer 111w with needle feed. It has no reverse.

I know that very well I see that Brisbane to Blacktown is about a 10hrs trip one way but I personally would take the pain if I can get a machine that I would need for my projects / to make some money. It´s an investment and that sometimes can hurt a little bit at the beginning. I once traveled 6 hrs one way to get a machine and that was in 2011 when gas was 1.59€ per Liter (not per Gallon). And I would do it again. But thats not the topic here - I hope some more member will tell what they do with their patchers.

Raven - I know sewing machines are extremely expensive in Australia (I have checked ebay.com.au a few times for parts) but that makes the 29K not better suitable for producing holsters or bags. It´s not that you can´t produce things with this machine but I think it is far beyond from being a proper machine for these purposes. It is what it is - a repair machine. Please don´t get me wrong. How about this one - it´s a flat bed but for sure the better choice. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INDUSTRIAL-LEATHER-SEWING-MACHINE-SEIKO-WALKING-FOOT-model-STH-8BL-/331402457552?pt=AU_Sewing&hash=item4d292031d0

You can mount it on any table and add a servo motor. Don´t know what you have paid for it but when it was "cheap" I´d keep it as the newer type patcher machines are harder to find and often enough quite expensive. Can you post some pictures of the machine?

I use mine for what it was made for - repairing different things. Last repair I did was the center seam of a .30M1 Carbine pouch and a box tack on a compartment of the same pouch. I have sewn straps in rucksacks and so forth but I always consider the patcher as the last choice when an other machine can´t do the job. There are much better machines for for sewing bags and holsters. People often think that these patcher are THE holy grail of leather sewing machines - they are not. They are for sure nice machines and always good to have one when you need one but nothing I´d like to work with the whole day or doing larger projects.

Your hole for adjusting the eccentric is on the backside (see your 2nd picture). The manual should give you good instructions. The picture of the gear box I posted is of an older 30-1. Yours seems to be one of the the latest models as it is more rectangular shaped and light Grey painted so it could bring more than $500 I think. If the chip in the flywheel is not to big it can be fixed with JB Weld or so.

When I was a kid I have been collecting Coca Cola "stuff". I still have some bits floating around but most items are gone. I´m collecting US Military Uniforms + Equipment from the 1940´s - 1960´s (or mid 1970´s). Mainly 1960´s era items. So if you folks wanna get rid of something drop me a PM.

If someone is looking for an original 132K manual - I have found one on Ebay: http://www.ebay.de/itm/261685215520?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I will not bid. I also have found and original 1931 dated parts lits for my 133K3. Unfortunately not illustrated but I love original documentations. I figured the difference between 133K2 and 133K3 is that the 133K3 has a roller foot. Really too bad the parts are not illustrated But I figured that my tension unit should have a felt washer so seems I have to make one... Still learning about the machine - I like it!

This is how your gear box should look when correctly assembled

I have a mechanics manual + a user guide - that should help you (direct downloads): Adler 30-1 Mechanics Manual Adler 30-1 User Guide

Thats a pretty basic statement. What are you going to sew with it - how thick? How much can you spend? You can get a lot of good information from this thread here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 Just to give you and idea of leather sewing machines in general

GA5 is the modern coppie of the 45K. Toledos version is the CB 2500 http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb2500.html

In general they did not use glue - this must be hardened oil or grease. I had a lot of that stuff on my 133K3 which I either scratches off with a flat screw driver or the cleaning solution washed it away after a few attempts. But sometimes I still find little spots but thats like gray hair - you think you don`t have them but suddenly it´s there.

Patchers are nice & versatile machines and they can be quite helpful but I still stick to my opinion that they are just repair machines (thats what they once where designed for) and not very comfortable for producing quality goods. But I would not miss mine though it does not see much use. It does not eat bread and it is "sleeping" thoroughly oiled under my table but I had situation I really needed it! It´s always good to have one - really!

Thats true but most used ones are cam driven and finding cams for special purposes is a pain and / or expensive. I´d love to own one that sews X boxes in 3/4", 1", 1.25",1.5", 2" and so forth but I need some 2mm x 16mm tacks with 42 or 52 stitches as well and it has to take 138 or thicker thread but these tackers cost at least 2500€ If some one has experience with such bar tackers I´d be happy to get some more information.

I´m not sewing holsters but when I look at other peoples holsters most are using much thicker thread than just 138, I think 277 or even thicker. It for sure is an optical aspect as well.

I always do that but sometimes the thread gets caught between needle plate and gear box but beside of that no problems.

I would buy it unseen for 50€ if it has a roller foot. Is it the one in the pictures above? Then I would buy it no matter what! If you can´t get it to work send me a PM - I can use the roller foot for my Singer 133K3 Where in the Netherlanders do you live?

Yeah - thats the point, my table is about 61cm and I have not used the original holes. Seems the table had more than 1 motor before I got it and I had mounted at least 3 different motors . I have learned from that and will never drill holes in tables again. I always use wood screws with hex head. This works fine since the modern servos are not very heavy.

I have no issues with this. I think the SR just has to be mounted behind the hinges of the machine, thats it - or not?