Constabulary

not sure how much elektricity you need but how a bout solar panels?

Is this sliding piece probably a "Darning Device"? I have sent you a PM with my email. I`ll see what I can do. but don´t expect it within the next week. It may take some time

it for sure is legit but I´m always amazed what kind of combinations you can find. An Adler made Singer machine... how strange is that? But relabeling seems to be normal in this business. The parts list shows it - all parts numbers are Adler numbers as it seems. Funny

Wiz, I´d assume you are referring to the Movie "The Eye Of The Needle" but it is decades old and I haven´t seen it very often but I think I remember Donald Sutherland is "The Needle" as he used to kill his opponents with a needle like stiletto. Right? Ah well, not to bad I think as I`am German Let me know what you need translated and I´m trying my best. Depending how long the text is it could take a couple of days.

WTF? http://www.ebay.de/itm/271629582229?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 This is an Adler 169 labeled as "Singer 169!, isn´t it? I never have seen one before. It even uses the Adler feet and not the typical Singer 111 type feet. Everyday something new in the world of sewing machines...

This is really a bit confusing but good that the supplier made it right!

I´d had crank it with needle plate removed and check what is going on with the needle and hook. When the needle is braking it probably hits a part of the hook or the hooks it to close to the needle and is touching / braking it. Tomorrow is Monday so I´d wait for the mechanic as you already ordered him to come.

I just looked for a Consew 227R-2 manual which is about the same machine and it says distance between hook and needle should be 0 - 0.5mm. Don´t know how much information you get from the Techsew manual so I thought the Consew manual could be useful for you. You can download it here: http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/PartsBooks/227R-2.pdf The screws you have to loose to move the hook towards the needle - if necessary - are No. 52 + 53 and possibly the 3 screws No. 2 to move the hook driving gear too. Pictures are taken from the consew manual I have linked above. So this is what I would try IF the hook - needle distance is wrong. If this does not help I´d try other needles or try to play little bit with the angle of the needle.

I have restored and worked on various machines over the time but I never worked on this machine. I know the flat bed type of this machine and when you want to adjust the hook distance on it you have to move the hook saddle so you have to loosen the 2 screws of the hook saddle and the 2 set screws of the gear on the hook drive shaft. I think it is about the same at a cylinder machine it will just look a bit different. I can tell you what I would try to do but I have to look at the parts list first... But this can only be a suggestion as i`m not a sewing machine mechanic and never worked on a 2700.

Just have sold the 2 132K manuals but I will keep the 133K8 manual. But I will scan it and post it here sooner or later so you can download it. I´m still looking for someone who can answer if the 132K and 133K take the same feed dog or if they have at least the same distance between the 2 screws.

I´d probably test a smaller needle size (I know #16 needle is for #69 tread - but anyway) and / or a different needle brand as well. I once used Pfaff 138 and I had a lot of problems with needles as I only used the cheap ones but nowadays I only use Schmetz + Groz Beckert and never had needle issues again. Often it is the needle bar that has to be lowered a tiny tiny bit. Then the thread loop will be formed a little earlier or is slightly wider and the hook can catch the loop better. I´d also check the distance between needle scarf + hook. The hooks should meet the needle within the needle scarf about 1.6mm above the needle eye but should but touch the needle. If your ears are good you can hear when the hook is touching the needle. I recently had issues with my (very old) Singer 133K and a tiny bit really made the difference. I had to move the hook toward the needle a tiny bit and now it works well - no skipped stitches anymore (yet)!

I had some luck and found some original 132K + 133K manuals (2 are sold again). I`ll scan + post the 133K - 133K10 + 133K17 manual in the days (or weeks) to come in the other thread. Gregg - can you tell me if the feed dogs of the 132K and 133K are the same - I mean the distance between the 2 screw holes. I know there were different type feed dogs and needle plates.

Member Darren Brosowski and / or Anne Bonnys Locker sells them. Here is another thread. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=50661

There can be several of reasons like the currency exchange rate, import fees (not the VAT) or penalties charged for importing from certain countries, number of purchased (imported) items. Small market means higher prices due to the small volume of purchased (imported) items and the shipping fees (for importing) are comparatively higher then. That is economy! You may like it or not!

I had uploaded it here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56667&p=372786

I don´t think it is a counterfeit product but nowadays you never know! I don´t know the Asian manufacturers mentality (and I will not prejudge them) but probably they have printed a wrong size on the package just to fulfill an order OR it just is a production error. But that is the 2nd case I know of where the nomenclature on a package does not match the contents! But this still could be a production error. 48:11 is a CANU number that is shown on SCHMETZ needle packages only. I think CANU is a Schmetz internal number for their needles. I will attach the PDF needle chart. It nice to have it by hand when you get an "unknown" machine and have to figure out what needle it takes. industrial-needle-chart.pdf

I just have checked my records and I have a huuuuuge needle chart that shows the needles that the different manufacturers are using with their machines. Since you have a Claes 8345-30 the chart says it takes 88 needles so you actually need a 55mm long needle. Here is a screen shot: But the 332LL needles in your picture look too short. They should measure 55mm (like the 88 needles) but yours look like 332 needles which are 45mm long (the LL makes the difference) Did you get the needles loose or in an original packaging? If you have the original packaging look whats written on it. Why do I ask? Because it happened that I once bought needles from "White Egret" in size 160 and so it was written on the package but inside the package I have found 140 size needles and from that day on I never again bought "cheap needles". So maybe something similar happened to you - wrong needles inside the package. If you received them loose call your supplier and tell him you received wrong / too short needles.

Just figured I have some 88 needles they do not have a scarf but a long and a short grove. I have added some pictures. Don`t get fooled by the picture - they are 55mm long but the closeup makes them look a bit shorter. Distance between top of shank and top of needle eye is 48 - 48.5mm. So you can compare this with the needles for have received.

I have no needles to compare but I know that the Claes patchers take either Sys. 81 or Sys 88 needles. The Sys. 88 is the longer needle and was used in patcher with a higher foot lift. Same with the Adler patchers - the Adler 30-1 takes shorter 332 needles (about 45mm long) and the Adler 30-7 takes the longer 332LL (about 55mm long) needles as it has a higher foot lift. As far as I know the 88 and 332LL have the same length so they should work if both needles have the same length from top to the needle scarf / needle eye. Just insert one and see if the hook meets the needle within the needle scarf. BTW - is your machine really taking 180 / 24 needles? I think that is pretty thick for a patcher. But maybe the Claes can...

The Techsew 5100 is a Juki 441 clone and you can find them in Germany as well - I´d assume that shipping is less and you don`t have to pay custom fees for importing them from outside the EU since GB is a EU member (though Cameron would like to get out as it seem). http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing/triple-transport-machines/ http://www.ebay.de/itm/441-Sattlermaschine-mit-220-V-Kupplungsmotor-sofort-startklar-/221582525705?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Haushaltsger%C3%A4te_N%C3%A4hmaschinen_PM&hash=item3397590509 But it depends - due to the $-GBP or €-GBP exchange rates it could be cheaper to import them from outside the EU but I´d contact the two above and the dealers in the US and Canada and try some negotiation. Some dealer with great reputation have banners on top of this site Be aware of the import charges - they charge you 3.7% (don´t hold me responsible if this is not correct - please check with your customs office) for sewing machines but as far as I remember not only for the sewing machine. They charge 3.7% on the entire amount incl. shipping costs. So add 3.7% to the total amount of your invoice and then add the Great Britain VAT of 20% (if I´m correct). The math is your part!

Have you bought the machine recently or do you own it for a while and have used it before w/o problems? Can you post some pictures of your machine with removed faceplate? Maybe there is something internally "wrong". Bell crank lever broken or disconnected... You never know. Maybe a small video from the internal parts when you are sewing.

probably a needle / hook timing problem or the needle is not insert correctly (slightly angled?)?

Check out Sieck in Germany - for some reason I have in mind that they have some Russian speaking employees. They have the 441 type machines made by HIGHTEX and they deal worldwide. The machines are the same. http://www.sieck.de/maschinen/naehen/armnaehmaschinen/ I have never bought from them but as far as I know they have a good reputation. The prices on their website DO NOT include VAT.

I once worked on a friends 211 and at his machine I was able to adjust the foot hight by repositioning / adjusting this "crank arm" up or down Not sure if it looks the same at you machine as his machine was a 211G and I don´t know if the 211A has different parts.

All feet are sold now!