Constabulary

Got the manual but there is no information regarding the sliding thing - I´m sorry. I think it could be a darning device. But thats just a guess. Some of the Singer 29K had a (different) darning device too (Wizcraft has one). I think when you slide it in the upper position and then tighten the screw it will disable the feeding function of the presser foot. So you can move the material freely by hand. You know what I mean? I have converted your manual to a printer friendly version and I have dropped some unnecessary pages to reduce the file size. So here is the direct download link: Manual Claes RPX Patcher Sewing machine (German Language)

these may fit but ask the seller before you buy: http://www.sailrite.com/Zipper-Foot-Set-Left-for-Professional They seem to be quite expensive. I´d contact Toledo Sewing first - maybe they have something similar - Bob also answered your post (see above).

Click on the brown button "MORE REPLY OPTIONS" in the lower right corner the you have more option and can upload pictures.

Wow - Artisan can´t support you with a simple inner foot? What a "Great" Company! I think the machine takes the standard Singer 111 type foot, don´t they? Can you post a picture of the foot era of the machine?

click on his name and there you have a "send me a message" button on the right

shank is ~2.0 - 2.5mm. I have (metric) size 110 with ~2.1mm and 180 with ~ 2.2mm and 200 with ~2.5mm diameter. Length from top of shank to top of needle eye is 5.2cm

Some progress on the wooden treadle stand but still enough pink to sand down I think I will motorize it and take off the treadle mechanism but I´m not sure yet.

Welcome on board! Es gibt ja doch noch ein paar Deutsche hier

Maybe you can post some pictures of your work. I think some member might know what the problem is when they see what happend. Pictures are often telling more than 1000 words.

Seems to be an Adler 49 with wheel feed (subclass 2 or 4 I guess). Pretty much the same class as a Singer 18 nut technically advanced.

Is there really an oil that does not stain unprotected / untreaded leather? I dont´think so. I do not use any "special purpose oi" I use S-761 weapons oil for everything! Mountainbike chain, household, sewing machine, weapons... everything. My simple opinion: What lubricates + cleanes the MG3 and M249 machien guns or G36 and M16 rifles can´t be bad for sewing machines. This stuff has a low vicosity and is well penetrating and it has a good cleanig effect on old gummed sewing machiens (espeacially in tight bearing). I love my S-761!!!

not sure how much elektricity you need but how a bout solar panels?

Is this sliding piece probably a "Darning Device"? I have sent you a PM with my email. I`ll see what I can do. but don´t expect it within the next week. It may take some time

it for sure is legit but I´m always amazed what kind of combinations you can find. An Adler made Singer machine... how strange is that? But relabeling seems to be normal in this business. The parts list shows it - all parts numbers are Adler numbers as it seems. Funny

Wiz, I´d assume you are referring to the Movie "The Eye Of The Needle" but it is decades old and I haven´t seen it very often but I think I remember Donald Sutherland is "The Needle" as he used to kill his opponents with a needle like stiletto. Right? Ah well, not to bad I think as I`am German Let me know what you need translated and I´m trying my best. Depending how long the text is it could take a couple of days.

WTF? http://www.ebay.de/itm/271629582229?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 This is an Adler 169 labeled as "Singer 169!, isn´t it? I never have seen one before. It even uses the Adler feet and not the typical Singer 111 type feet. Everyday something new in the world of sewing machines...

This is really a bit confusing but good that the supplier made it right!

I´d had crank it with needle plate removed and check what is going on with the needle and hook. When the needle is braking it probably hits a part of the hook or the hooks it to close to the needle and is touching / braking it. Tomorrow is Monday so I´d wait for the mechanic as you already ordered him to come.

I just looked for a Consew 227R-2 manual which is about the same machine and it says distance between hook and needle should be 0 - 0.5mm. Don´t know how much information you get from the Techsew manual so I thought the Consew manual could be useful for you. You can download it here: http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/PartsBooks/227R-2.pdf The screws you have to loose to move the hook towards the needle - if necessary - are No. 52 + 53 and possibly the 3 screws No. 2 to move the hook driving gear too. Pictures are taken from the consew manual I have linked above. So this is what I would try IF the hook - needle distance is wrong. If this does not help I´d try other needles or try to play little bit with the angle of the needle.

I have restored and worked on various machines over the time but I never worked on this machine. I know the flat bed type of this machine and when you want to adjust the hook distance on it you have to move the hook saddle so you have to loosen the 2 screws of the hook saddle and the 2 set screws of the gear on the hook drive shaft. I think it is about the same at a cylinder machine it will just look a bit different. I can tell you what I would try to do but I have to look at the parts list first... But this can only be a suggestion as i`m not a sewing machine mechanic and never worked on a 2700.

Just have sold the 2 132K manuals but I will keep the 133K8 manual. But I will scan it and post it here sooner or later so you can download it. I´m still looking for someone who can answer if the 132K and 133K take the same feed dog or if they have at least the same distance between the 2 screws.

I´d probably test a smaller needle size (I know #16 needle is for #69 tread - but anyway) and / or a different needle brand as well. I once used Pfaff 138 and I had a lot of problems with needles as I only used the cheap ones but nowadays I only use Schmetz + Groz Beckert and never had needle issues again. Often it is the needle bar that has to be lowered a tiny tiny bit. Then the thread loop will be formed a little earlier or is slightly wider and the hook can catch the loop better. I´d also check the distance between needle scarf + hook. The hooks should meet the needle within the needle scarf about 1.6mm above the needle eye but should but touch the needle. If your ears are good you can hear when the hook is touching the needle. I recently had issues with my (very old) Singer 133K and a tiny bit really made the difference. I had to move the hook toward the needle a tiny bit and now it works well - no skipped stitches anymore (yet)!

I had some luck and found some original 132K + 133K manuals (2 are sold again). I`ll scan + post the 133K - 133K10 + 133K17 manual in the days (or weeks) to come in the other thread. Gregg - can you tell me if the feed dogs of the 132K and 133K are the same - I mean the distance between the 2 screw holes. I know there were different type feed dogs and needle plates.

Member Darren Brosowski and / or Anne Bonnys Locker sells them. Here is another thread. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=50661

There can be several of reasons like the currency exchange rate, import fees (not the VAT) or penalties charged for importing from certain countries, number of purchased (imported) items. Small market means higher prices due to the small volume of purchased (imported) items and the shipping fees (for importing) are comparatively higher then. That is economy! You may like it or not!