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Everything posted by Constabulary
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Outside Presser Foot Marking The Leather (Pfaff 335)
Constabulary replied to oclack's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Not sure what you mean with rotation... If you google for Pfaff 335 you will find pictures of other needle plates with a little more "beef" on the left side but they seem to be checkered and for tape binding and I don´t know if they will mark the leather on the underside. https://www.google.com/search?q=pfaff+335&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=gxsoVNGZOKufygOj-IHICA&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAw&biw=1280&bih=866#hl=en&tbm=isch&q=pfaff+335+needle+plate Maybe there are other variants... I don´t know what else is available for the 335. I´d check with one of the dealers who have banners on this website. Cylinder machines are for sure more versatile than flat beds but If you sew only flat items like wallets I think a flat bed machines is the better choice. I would not trade for a 31-15, thats a bad deal but for a 227 type machine I´d trade it immediately. Just my 2 cents.- 21 replies
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Major Problems With New Sewing Machine
Constabulary replied to lranger's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Can you add some pictures? Pictures often tell more than words. -
Outside Presser Foot Marking The Leather (Pfaff 335)
Constabulary replied to oclack's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
My thoughts about the 335 in general are that they were originally designed as tape binding machines and not as leather sewing machines. Most of the Pfaff 335 I have seen are set up as tape binding machines. I think the Consew 227 type machines or Pfaff 345 are the better leather sewing machines.- 21 replies
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Outside Presser Foot Marking The Leather (Pfaff 335)
Constabulary replied to oclack's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
There is a very narrow and quite sharp angled piece of needle plate on the left and on this narrow piece of steel comes all the pressure of a very narrow left toe foot. What I want to say is that all the foot pressure is concentrated on small spot and this causes the marking. If you had a wider needle plate on the left and a wider left toe I think it "could" solve it but I don´t know if such parts are available for the 335. Or try a wider right toe foot and see if it solves the problem as there is "much more needle plate" on the right. You know what I mean? Your presser foot is barely touching the needle plate.- 21 replies
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Singer 29K 171 Needle Alignment (W/ Pics)
Constabulary replied to thesergeant's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
But when he is sewing the needle will be deflected by the needle plate so when the needle meets the hook the needle has bit of an angle. So when the upper body will be slightly moved to the left it could solve the problem. See his 2nd picture. Or did I get it wrong? -
Singer 29K 171 Needle Alignment (W/ Pics)
Constabulary replied to thesergeant's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
It probably sounds radical but if shifting the body does not work I´d try to drill the screw holes a tiny bit wider and then shift the body again - you know what I mean? -
Have you bought the 2 machines?
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Singer 29K 171 Needle Alignment (W/ Pics)
Constabulary replied to thesergeant's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Have you separated the 2 cast body parts when you have restored the machine? Maybe you can try to loosen the 4 body screws and try to shift the upper body a bit to the left. Just an idea for the case nothing else works. But that will probably have an influence on your needle & hook... I´d buy another needle pate and drill or file the holes wider if you don`t want to damage the original part. -
If there is an original 45K Manual in the drawer then PLEASE scan it and post the file here. And in case you don´t need it I´d be interested in buying it Adler manuals are too big to upload here so here you have the direct download links, just click on them and the download will start automatically. The machines may look a bit different but the instructions are the same. Manual Adler 30-1 Mechanics Manual Adler 30-1 For the 45K I only have this: 45Kmanual.pdf
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these machines were originally designed as shoe patcher / shoe repair machines. They are not meant as production machines for heavy leather.
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Not sure what other 111 type machines can handle but my Singer 111G156 can handle 207 (size 15 Metric) thread w/o problems with a 23 (160 metric) size needle. There should be some good used machines out there. Maybe you should contact a local dealer or one of the dealers who have a banner on top of this website.
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Latest Shipment Of Leather Machines
Constabulary replied to Singermania's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I don´t think the GDR imported sewing machines from West Germany to re-sell them under their own brand name - doesn`t make sense. If it were the other way around then I´d say it is possible. -
@ Evo160K So your estimated sale price could be about 800 -1100 but then they should be fully functional. But when you buy them to make some money expect that you probably have to invest some money (in case the bobbin winders are missing and so forth) to put them back into a fully functional condition. Bobbin winders are an easy task - nothing you need special knowledge for. So if you can get them for about $200 each (or even less) you should be able to make a nice profit. At the end it is your decision. Keep in mind that you have to find a customer. But If I were you I´d buy them if the price is good.
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What you see is not a reduction, it is a separated clutch. See where the chain from the pedal goes to. Some early "electrified" heavy machines had these separated clutches. Adler used them as well. You sometimes find them on top of the table and sometimes underneath the table as in this case. Will see if I can find my old Adler brochures...
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BTW - what I can tell from the pictures is that both machines DO NOT have the bobbin winder installed. So check if they are present or not. I have one for the 45K if it does not come with the machine. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=58471&p=376093
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A thousand or more is too much I´d say. Thats probably a dealer price but as a private seller I think 400 - 700 is realistic. It depends on how the market in your era is. If you want to sell them fast the price has to be quite low but if you have storage space and the time to wait for a customer who really wants exactly the machine you offer you can ask a bit more I´d say. The 45K has no reverse and it is 1940 built (according to the serial number). New build Chinese versions of it cost 995 w/o reverse to 1295 with reverse but they are new and come with servo motor, speed reducer, table, warranty, a dealer service and so forth. So I don´t see a thousand for the 45K. I think 400-500 is realistic. If it had reverse maybe a 100 more but it is w/o reverse. The Adler 30 is one of the later models, the early ones are all black but the greenish ones are about 1950´s - 1960´s build as far as I know. And since it is a 15 subclass (double digit) it probably is from the 1970´s I guess. So it is a "relatively new" machine compared with the black Adler 30´s in general. Considering the overall optical condition I´d say you can get 500 - 600 for it - maybe more but I don´t know how the prices in the US are for these machines. The documentation for this machine is quite good, I think I have a manual and a mechanics instruction PDF so I can add it here if you want. BTW - ask if the machine come with some accessories and / or spare parts. This would be a big advantage as parts are quite expensive and you can make some more $. I´d test them before you pay big $ and if they don´t work you have to be careful. Look for manuals in advance, read them so you don´t look like a fool when you are testing them. In general the needle and hook timing are not a too big issue on either machine. But I cannot judge the overall condition from the distance. Asks the seller how much he wants and don´t make offers otherwise he will probably go up with the price. I personally would buy both but depends on the price and if they are in working condition or not, if parts are missing or not and if the machines probably have extra accessories or spare parts. As I said, if it is just the needle / hook timing it would not be a big issue.
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Not sure if it will help you but you can adjust the fly wheel on the upper shaft. You have to loosen the set screw and then turn in the adjustment screw (which is in the center of the fly wheel) a little bit. I hope the adjustment screw is still present as it is missing sometimes. Don´t forget to fasten the set screw again. Is it possible that the "clanking" comes from the hook era? That would be quite normal of the old 45K.
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You could look for a used one instead. Another option could be to check out some dealers on the Continent. You save the import taxes as the UK is (still) in the EU. Not sure if you will find a Consew 206 over here but there are for sure other machines with similar specs.
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I have a Singer 307 G2 which runs like a dream. I use it for zig zag tacks, some zig zag darning and sewing lighter materials. Great machine with M size bobbins! The feed dog that came with the machine is pretty wide as it can produce 6mm zig zag stitches. Interestingly the 307 G2 can accommodative needle plate and feed dog of my old Duerkopp 252 (needle plate it is a bit narrower but it fits) though the needle plate has different screw positions but the 307 G2 has 2 extra screw holes so it works. The Duerkopp 252 is obsolete and accessories are no longer available. But I know the Duerkopp 252 is pretty much a "clone" of the Singer 107W or 143W. So I wonder if someone knows if the Duerkopp 252 and singer 143W or 107W are using the same needle plates and feed dogs? Or is it possible that the 307 G2 is using needle plate and feed dog of some newer models like the Singer 457 (not the domestic of course) or other models? Looking forward to some input Some pictures with measures:
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Have you insert the needle correctly? Are you using the correct needle? The 29K takes 29x3 (332) or DPx17 (135x17) needles. There is not very much to time on the 29K. Check this post, it should help you - hopefully http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52583&p=336139 You may have to do some "fine tuning" but thats basically all you can do. Not sure how your gearbox looks inside but when it is a 29K71 clone you´ll find the correct set up for the gearbox in a manual you can download here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57862&p=372012 It is not for exactly for the 29K71 but gearbox looks the same inside - see page 24 / 25 in the manual.
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You´re welcome. I´m glad when I can help.
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Singer 29K51 Info Wanted, Keep It Or Junk It?
Constabulary replied to boilernspector's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
It depends how dirty your machine was . The 29K is quite easy to adjust. You should have asked here in the forum before. You can download a manual here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57862&p=372012 Not exactly the same machine but the basics are pretty much the same. -
- 28 replies
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- bobbin winder
- spare parts
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