Jump to content

Constabulary

Members
  • Posts

    5,593
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Constabulary

  1. VERY old - I guess form the late 1800 or early 1900. I don´t know the machine but it looks as if it is a vibrating shuttle machine which is an obsolete system (obsolete for decades). I´d only buy if you are a sewing machine collector. You may have trouble finding needles (depends on the needle system) bobbins, shuttles and other spare parts but main reason is that it is way to expensive and you can get much better machines with much better performance for $400. A used machines with walking foot / triple feed is what you should look for. This is just my evaluation from viewing the picture (same picture posted twice). Maybe you can post some more from the underside, front side and so on.
  2. Or try DOT fasteners / Scovill http://snaps.dotfasteners.com/category/durable-8482--2
  3. You are welcome! Nice to hear that everything works! Singer 294 - I guess you have a 29-4, right?
  4. probably the CB3200 from Toledo Sewing - it even hast the walking foot mechanism http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html
  5. regarding the vintage Singer 111w series machines - I agree with Wiz in most points but from my point of view it could be worth restoring these old machines. I personally have restored my 111w156 (with reverse) from the late 1950´s and most parts are available at reasonable prices for the 111w series. That is a big advantage. But it is true that most of them may need a lot of TLC but it always depends on what you find. But I have to admit that I'm a bit "vintage machine crazy" and personally do not like these white painted heartless machines from China but that has nothing to do with their performance or durability. Modern machines have for sure a better performance but when money is an issue a vintage Singer 111w (or other brands) is a good option. Often they are old clunkers - yes - but most still have a lot of life left. Mine runs like a dream, no serious problem since I have restored it. I really love it and I would not trade it for a machine from China. The only nice to have would be a larger bobbin but I can deal with it. But again, that is my personal point of view. Check out the threads of the last 4 weeks at "Leather Sewing Machines" and you will find some threads of members who have found a nice vintage walking foot machines (not only Singer 111w) for really good prices. You are not the only in this situation. I´d give a vintage machine a try and in best case you will find one in good working condition which just needs a little TLC. BTW - the Singer 95 has an odd timing belt which is quite expensive when it is worn or ripped.
  6. M-size bobbins are not small! They are about 1" in diameter. I have a bobbin guide - don´t know where it came from but I have it on my PC ...
  7. I just thought because of the hand crank as there is no belt but no problem at all, it was just an idea
  8. ... lamps From time to time I´m checking the eBay for vintage lamps and other nice vintage "junk" and what sometimes is crossing my search is that some people turn broken or unwanted sewing machines or just parts of it into lamps. A neat idea and some of them really don't look bad. And with a little work you really can get some good bucks for them as it seems. This is probably and Idea for you Steampunk fans out there... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Singer-Jones-Sewing-Machine-Table-Lamp-Light-Steampunk-Retro-Industrial-/331272661602?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item4d2163aa62 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Chrome-Singer-Sewing-Machine-Table-Lamp-Light-Steampunk-Retro-Industrial-/331270801796?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item4d21474984 http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SINGER-1935-99k-SEWING-MACHINE-TABLE-LIGHT-LAMP-STEAMPUNK-UPCYCLED-/380962930355?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item58b328feb3
  9. Hey CD - any chance that you are interested in a machine mounted bobbin winder for you 205? I remember I still have one from a Singer 45K. It has a rubber wheel that runs on the hand wheel. I don´t want money but maybe we can talk about your 1.5" wide webbing roll. I know shipping will not be cheap but maybe we can figure out a deal. I will post a picture tomorrow. It looks like this one - I think it could work with your 205...
  10. aaaah - okay! I can imagine 2 ways of how the spring is installed inside. One where the round vertical bar goes through the spring and one where a smaller spring is below the bar. Not sure if I described it well - you know what I mean? Any chance that you could take a few pictures of the darning device when not installed?
  11. how about these FAXTEX buckles + hardware? http://www.fastex.com.au/itw-plastic_buckles.html
  12. I have to say that this is by far the ugliest and most unprofessional looking and unfinished machine I ever have seen. This is something I´d expect to see in a Chinese province, somewhere in the darkest Russia or in a development country but not in the western hemisphere. I hope it does not come from the same factory the other Chinese machines come from. This thing seems to work but who honestly wants to have this thing in a professional looking shop? Just my 2 cents - others may have a different opinion. Men, is this thing ugly!
  13. I see! That make sense! With other words this is an extension nut / coupling nut and a T-Bar with a threaded lower end that is screwed into the nut, right? Or is there a spring inside the nut that prevalents the T-bar from moving? This is at least something I could imagine.
  14. I´m pulling this old thread again because I don´t wanted to start a new topic for the same problem. I´d be interested how darning with the 29K works - I tried to find information but can´t find any. I unfortunately cannot tell from the picture in the 1st post how the "T-Thing" looks like and how it is working. So I hope someone can enlighten me.
  15. No doubt it will go through the 10mm material. I also have hand cranked machines when I was testing them (Adler 4, 104, Class III...) but as CD said, I always felt that my right hand is missing to guide the material properly. But everyone has it´s preferences.
  16. Thats why I´d prefer a motor driven machine. Isn't a heavy treadle the better idea for a such a heavy machine? BTW - is that 1.5" wide military webbing? I´m looking for such webbing Any chance that you have a source for surplus military cotton webbing of difference Classes + Types??
  17. Consew offers free parts list to download. Just look for your type of machine and I think you`ll find all information you need. Also, look for the parts number of the screw for the lever so you can be sure you don´t buy anything wrong. http://www.consew.com/Resources/ And if you don´t have an instructional manual you can download it here: http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/255RB-3.pdf
  18. see above picture - just have edited it. I´m in the same situation. I have to buy a binder or binder set for 3/4 tape next month. One more pic how it looks installed
  19. if the plate next to the needle plate (the that covers the hook) has no holes you have to drill 1 or 2 and tap a thread for thumb screws. Or you buy a new attachment plate http://www.ebay.com/itm/SLIDE-COVER-ATTACHMENT-PLATE-RIGHT-INSIDE-240003SP-SINGER-111W-CONSEW-225-226-/290723349952?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b07645c0 This is how a complete set looks like:
  20. The Lever can be found on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-255RB-S-N-PRESSER-BAR-LIFTER-PART-10659-/290723355426?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b0765b22 But you also need the screw which comes from the right (when you look from behind) for attaching the lever. The screw serves as pivot point as well. I may have one if you can´t find one local but it comes form a Singer but should fit w/o problem. But I have to check first. Not sure about the other 2 things but the spring is probably for holding an oil wick. Do you have a parts list and instruction manual for your machine?
  21. Yes that is the bushing. It may sit very tight in there. Only tap on the outside and not on the part that was secured on the upper shaft. I have attached a picture from my restoration
  22. A servo motor + speed reducer is for sure the better idea - much more torque than just a treadle!!! Sure, you just need some bolts and tools + 1 or 2 new V-belts. Depends on where you install the reducer + motor.
  23. I like it very much! Very nice clean & functional design.
  24. that may work but w/o the model name its hard to find out the specs of the machine. And from this tiny picture you cannot tell the feeding system (walking foot, needle feed) ... and so on
×
×
  • Create New...