Constabulary

Is it really so difficult to find used / vintage heavy leather machines for a reasonable price in the US? I come across about a hand full flat beds every month. cylinder beds are harder to find here. I should probably start to export some to the US and Australia. Seems there is a market

As I said, I don´t know the Davis machines but it does not look as heavy as a Singer 45K. They are not comparable I think. The Davis seems to have a walking foot BUT no feed dog this means the materials is feed by just a small foot. This will work for garment or thin leather but I doubt it will work for heavy leather. I also don´t know what needle sizes are available for this machine. If you don´t find needles in a proper size it makes no sense. I don´t know if Davis made heavy machines at all I still would not buy it for $350 and would not even pay $100. But thats just my opinion.

Is it for your CLAES patcher? try a roll bin instead, they are available ins dozens of sizes. I also ruined a pin at my 29K71 and replaced it with a roll pin and it works perfect. http://www.ebay.com/itm/M3-3MM-x-22-22MM-Roll-Spring-Pin-Metric-PK-10-/231295793444?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35da4db924 But you may find them cheaper local at hardware store or so.

The leather washer I had on my 29K71 was about 1mm or 1.5mm but after I have finished my restoration I have not put it back on. I have attached instructions for 29K manual I hope this will help you to adjust your machine. Singer 29K Instructions.pdf

there are too many different machines out there to know all the specs. I think it "could" be possible that you find one that works. But remember, the post bed machines have a much higher positioned hand wheel so the position of your motor pulley is important because the angle of the V- belt is different. So you may change the position of the motor or extend the V-belt slot in the table. Like I said, I have two Singers and the only thing I have to change is th V-Belt. That works because the hand wheel position is almost the same.

Tables are not universals but a lot of flat bed machines have very similar bed dissensions. I`m using a Singer 111G156 and a Singer 307G2 on one table as both machines have the same size flat bed. This saves me a lot of space as the 307G2 is not my "main machine" but I use it for zig zag and lighter flat stuff. I just need a 2nd V-Belt which is permanently hanging on my speed reducer so I can switch between the machines in just a few seconds. But there are also longer flat beds for example some older Pfaff or Duerkopp have longer flat beds because the same machines housings were used for single and double needle machines. The modern motors have all the same mounting holes but older motors may have different holes. I know older motors with 4 mounting holes but most have just 3.

No - and no other sewing machine should do that either. The discs should only release when you lift the presser foot but not during the sewing process. otherwise you are loosing the top thread tension. So I´d say there is something wrong with your 31K. When your top thread is between the tension discs you should "feel" the difference when you pull your top thread when the foot is down and when your foot is lifted. When the foot is down the thread has more resistance / tension. Parts #9 is moving up and down all the time but only releases the tension when the foot is lifted.

VERY old - I guess form the late 1800 or early 1900. I don´t know the machine but it looks as if it is a vibrating shuttle machine which is an obsolete system (obsolete for decades). I´d only buy if you are a sewing machine collector. You may have trouble finding needles (depends on the needle system) bobbins, shuttles and other spare parts but main reason is that it is way to expensive and you can get much better machines with much better performance for $400. A used machines with walking foot / triple feed is what you should look for. This is just my evaluation from viewing the picture (same picture posted twice). Maybe you can post some more from the underside, front side and so on.

Or try DOT fasteners / Scovill http://snaps.dotfasteners.com/category/durable-8482--2

You are welcome! Nice to hear that everything works! Singer 294 - I guess you have a 29-4, right?

probably the CB3200 from Toledo Sewing - it even hast the walking foot mechanism http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html

regarding the vintage Singer 111w series machines - I agree with Wiz in most points but from my point of view it could be worth restoring these old machines. I personally have restored my 111w156 (with reverse) from the late 1950´s and most parts are available at reasonable prices for the 111w series. That is a big advantage. But it is true that most of them may need a lot of TLC but it always depends on what you find. But I have to admit that I'm a bit "vintage machine crazy" and personally do not like these white painted heartless machines from China but that has nothing to do with their performance or durability. Modern machines have for sure a better performance but when money is an issue a vintage Singer 111w (or other brands) is a good option. Often they are old clunkers - yes - but most still have a lot of life left. Mine runs like a dream, no serious problem since I have restored it. I really love it and I would not trade it for a machine from China. The only nice to have would be a larger bobbin but I can deal with it. But again, that is my personal point of view. Check out the threads of the last 4 weeks at "Leather Sewing Machines" and you will find some threads of members who have found a nice vintage walking foot machines (not only Singer 111w) for really good prices. You are not the only in this situation. I´d give a vintage machine a try and in best case you will find one in good working condition which just needs a little TLC. BTW - the Singer 95 has an odd timing belt which is quite expensive when it is worn or ripped.

M-size bobbins are not small! They are about 1" in diameter. I have a bobbin guide - don´t know where it came from but I have it on my PC ...

I just thought because of the hand crank as there is no belt but no problem at all, it was just an idea

... lamps From time to time I´m checking the eBay for vintage lamps and other nice vintage "junk" and what sometimes is crossing my search is that some people turn broken or unwanted sewing machines or just parts of it into lamps. A neat idea and some of them really don't look bad. And with a little work you really can get some good bucks for them as it seems. This is probably and Idea for you Steampunk fans out there... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Singer-Jones-Sewing-Machine-Table-Lamp-Light-Steampunk-Retro-Industrial-/331272661602?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item4d2163aa62 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Chrome-Singer-Sewing-Machine-Table-Lamp-Light-Steampunk-Retro-Industrial-/331270801796?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item4d21474984 http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SINGER-1935-99k-SEWING-MACHINE-TABLE-LIGHT-LAMP-STEAMPUNK-UPCYCLED-/380962930355?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item58b328feb3

Hey CD - any chance that you are interested in a machine mounted bobbin winder for you 205? I remember I still have one from a Singer 45K. It has a rubber wheel that runs on the hand wheel. I don´t want money but maybe we can talk about your 1.5" wide webbing roll. I know shipping will not be cheap but maybe we can figure out a deal. I will post a picture tomorrow. It looks like this one - I think it could work with your 205...

aaaah - okay! I can imagine 2 ways of how the spring is installed inside. One where the round vertical bar goes through the spring and one where a smaller spring is below the bar. Not sure if I described it well - you know what I mean? Any chance that you could take a few pictures of the darning device when not installed?

how about these FAXTEX buckles + hardware? http://www.fastex.com.au/itw-plastic_buckles.html

I have to say that this is by far the ugliest and most unprofessional looking and unfinished machine I ever have seen. This is something I´d expect to see in a Chinese province, somewhere in the darkest Russia or in a development country but not in the western hemisphere. I hope it does not come from the same factory the other Chinese machines come from. This thing seems to work but who honestly wants to have this thing in a professional looking shop? Just my 2 cents - others may have a different opinion. Men, is this thing ugly!

I see! That make sense! With other words this is an extension nut / coupling nut and a T-Bar with a threaded lower end that is screwed into the nut, right? Or is there a spring inside the nut that prevalents the T-bar from moving? This is at least something I could imagine.

I´m pulling this old thread again because I don´t wanted to start a new topic for the same problem. I´d be interested how darning with the 29K works - I tried to find information but can´t find any. I unfortunately cannot tell from the picture in the 1st post how the "T-Thing" looks like and how it is working. So I hope someone can enlighten me.

No doubt it will go through the 10mm material. I also have hand cranked machines when I was testing them (Adler 4, 104, Class III...) but as CD said, I always felt that my right hand is missing to guide the material properly. But everyone has it´s preferences.

Thats why I´d prefer a motor driven machine. Isn't a heavy treadle the better idea for a such a heavy machine? BTW - is that 1.5" wide military webbing? I´m looking for such webbing Any chance that you have a source for surplus military cotton webbing of difference Classes + Types??

Consew offers free parts list to download. Just look for your type of machine and I think you`ll find all information you need. Also, look for the parts number of the screw for the lever so you can be sure you don´t buy anything wrong. http://www.consew.com/Resources/ And if you don´t have an instructional manual you can download it here: http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/255RB-3.pdf

see above picture - just have edited it. I´m in the same situation. I have to buy a binder or binder set for 3/4 tape next month. One more pic how it looks installed