Constabulary

that may work but w/o the model name its hard to find out the specs of the machine. And from this tiny picture you cannot tell the feeding system (walking foot, needle feed) ... and so on

You of course have to buy needles that have the same length. The needle system is 216x1 or for leather needles 216x2. If you can´t find 216x2 leather needles you maybe can try a different needles system with an approx. same length but then you have to adjust the needle bar. An alternative needle could be the 328 System but I´m not sure how different the length is but they "look" close.

Seems to be an Asian clone of the Pfaff 335 or Adler 69. I think it is more a light to medium machine. You often find these as a binding machine so I think you can´t sew very heavy with them. If you have a model name I think one can find out more.

Sometimes - it depends on the angle that the thread runs into your thread tension discs. Having a flat angle can prevent the thread from popping out of the discs sometimes. I had this with a friends Singer 211. A flatter angle solved it.

was not easy to convince you The 45K is a quite mighty machine but for sure of of the best vintage machines you can hand crank due to their large heavy hand wheel. As I said before - maybe a Singer class 111w (flat bed) with walking foot or a Singer class 153w (cylinder bed) with walking foot (walking foot means compound feed / triple feed / unison feed - all the same but different nomenclatures) is an option for you. They can handle about 3/8 thick material w/o problem, most have 5-6 stitches per Inch and can take up to a size 26 needle. They all have subclasses (like 111W155 or 111w156) . A sub class marks technical differences. Considering the 111w155 and 111w156 - they are the same but the 156 subclass has a reverse lever the 155 has non. Please don´t ask for a list of subclasses - I don´t think there is one (or is there one?). But when you google the machines you will find manuals or information from other sources like leatherworker.net or so. There are of course many clones of the mentioned Singers from brands like Juki, Brother, Seiko, Consew just to name some of the most common you can find used for a reasonable price. But don´t ask for all the models or brands - there are just too many. You may also look for Pfaff 145 or 545 or Adler 67 or 167 with walking foot (all flat bed). They are all the same class as the Singer 111w but made in Germany. But there are also subclasses with technical differences. You see - you have to learn a lot and as you probably have noticed most people have owned more than one machine before they have found the one that suits for their purposes. I´d say I had about 6 or so until I figured what I really need / want. I started with a Singer domestic machine made of plastic (1980´s made or so) and I ruined the gears it within a few weeks (it cost just 15€), then I had a singer 316 (treadle powered and a bit like the 201 but with zig zag, different hook and so on) - not strong enough and struggled with thick thread and needles. Then I found a Pfaff 138 - great machine but struggled with 3/8 webbing material and thick threads though it was s a sturdy industrial machine (due to its simple drop feed I think). Then I found a nice Pfaff 28 cylinder machine with roller foot but it had tiny bobbin + feed dog - so pretty useless for me. Next was a Adler 4-23 - a HELL of a machine with 2800 rpm clutch motor but back then I had no clue that I can change pulley or even the whole motor so I sold it (today I wish I still had it), next was a Adler 104-2 with a 1400 rpm motor - a great machine, nice large bobbin (same as the 4-23) but I was not able to find additional presser foot for my purposes so I installed a not very well fitting roller foot - that was better but still not perfect. All mentioned machines are sold again. I had one or two more but problems where very similar - I always found them not suitable for my purposes. Then I found my current machine - a Singer 111G156 from the 1950´s - the 1st with a walking foot - I have restored it and since then it runs like a dream. I recently have added a servo motor and speed reducer now it is absolutely perfect for me. I will keep it a s long s it lasts - I really love it but a larger bobbing would be nice. Other that that - a really great machine!!! Big advance is that almost all spare parts are quite cheap and very easy to find. And you can get a wide range of accessories for it. Then I bought a Singer 307G2 (late 1950´s - 1960s made I think) for zig zag tacks and sewing lighter materials - this is also a great machine and even has a large M style bobbin but it cannot sew what the 111G156 can sew thought it uses the same needles but it has just drop feed and a quite wide feed dog - hard to explain but I just can use it for zig zag and some lighter flat materials but I also love this machine!!! And it even fits in the cut out of the table of my 111G156 so I can use 2 machine on one table and with 1 motor (just have to change the V-belt) My latest machine is a Singer 29K71 patcher / cobbler machine from the 1960´s (also a restoration project). I always wanted one with a short arm as the long arm patcher just take too much space. I just use it for repairs in spots I cannot reach with my flat bed machines. It works great but this machine is not very precise in sewing long straight seams. So this is not a machine for producing something it is more or less a repair machine for short seams of maybe 2 inches or so (this so far is my experience with it) And I still have some machines on mind of which I think they could be useful for me but I have to try them before I can make a final decision. Any maybe I´ll figure they are not useful - so you see - a lot of trial and error on my end but I have learned a lot and would not miss it.

Honestly - read the pinned thread and watch Arthur Porters video. This is all you need to find a suitable machine. Both come from experienced leather workers and not from a "fart burner next door" - don´t buy everything you see on youtube or read in ebay auctions. HERE it the place where you get 1st hand information from people who really work with their machines and not only sew a few inches for a youtube video. This probably not what you want to hear but thats how it is! If you don't trust the people here, buy a 201 and try it - it may work for a while with thin needles and thin thread but I´m sure you will have problems with a 22 size or larger needle. A 201 is something Mummy repairs her skirt with but when Daddy needs a new tool belt or rifle sling I´m sure Daddy will be quite disappointed with the result. Or what do you think why there are these heavy industrial sewing machines out there? They were build for a reason and not to fool people. BTW - have you noticed how the machine struggles at the beginning and how it pulls up the entire belt? That guy probably restores machines but is not working with them all day or even for a living. It is one thing just to own an "instrument" but playing the instrument it whole different story! I only can speak for Germany and the 45K can be found for 200€ up to 400€ (not $) when it is a flat bed - cylinder bed may cots 200€ on top. But you´d rather find an Adler 4 or 5 than a Singer 45K over here. Price depends on the condition and what accessories comes with the machine. There is not the one and only price for something. At the end you have to find the machine and decide if you are willing to pay the price or not. It may be a long journey or just a short trip as the member "Hi Im Joe" had one! You now have got a lot of good hints & suggestions now go ahead and try something! And forget this 201 thing - Again - read the thread - watch the video!

Thats true - no comparison! Just to give you and idea of the needles, bobbins and hooks / bobbin cases for the 45K and a domestic machine. Tape show centimeters - not inches. The "large stuff" is for a 45K and the "tiny stuff" is what works in a domestic. As Wiz said - read the pinned post and maybe watch this Video it is helpful. Arthur Porter is also a member here.

Maybe a Singer 45K is something for you. It is vintage, not very expensive (most of the times - but there are some who wants an arm and a leg for them), it has a large heavy hand wheel, it easily takes the heavy thread and has a quite large bobbing, they are built like tanks and standard parts are still available. You can find them as cylinder bed and flat bed. Cylinder beds are a more expensive than flat beds. The lady in the video has one too as it seems. Just an idea...

You can hand crank or treadle almost every machine, even the modern ones it just depends on how you set it up. Is it important for you to have a post bed machine? Or does a flat bed or cylinder bed machine work too? Check Craigslist if you can find something local or check Ebay or some dealers in your era as most of them have used machines in good working condition. A member just shot a Singer 111G156 for just 50$ on Ebay and another member shot an Adler 167 for just $100 from Craigslist. I´m sure you can find some vintage Singer 111 series (flat bed) or 153 series (cylinder bed) machines or something similar for a good price. They are durable and long living but they may need some overhauling due to their age. And parts are still available and not very expensive. These machines and their clones from Consew, Juki, Brother and so on are wide spread. Check out the the thread of the member Hi Im Joe - He started with the idea of a small domestic machine and finally has found a nice Adler 167 for just $100. So good / cheap / vintage machines are out there you just have to look around and you probably have to take the "pain" to restore them a little bit. If you don´t have the time you have to buy something new that works out of the box. I have restored all my machines and never bought a new one as sewing is just a (nice) hobby and I cannot spend a couple of $ grands for it. But all machines work fine and all are vintage and 40 - 50 years old and all turned out quite nice and are well working now! BUT I had to learn a lot. I bought some machines that where not suitable for me but it does not matter as I went through a learning process and I´m still learning new things every day. What are you planing to do / produce with your machine? I think it is easier to find a machine this way than checking every detail of single machines you come across randomly. Members here are very helpful but they just can give you a helping hand at the end YOU have to make the decisions.

As I´m on the other side of the pond I always check Evilbay first and most of the times I have luck: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=&_osacat=13956&_mdo=Collectibles&_pcats=1&_armrs=1&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsinger+52W&_nkw=singer+52W&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Some parts are available trough College Sewing UK https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=52w The tension unit seems to be the standard tension unit you find on Singer 111w series and clones as well. Or ask some of the known dealers who have banner on the top of the forum

I have loosen the screws (I was curious what behind the wheel is) and there is nothing you can damage. The spring just pushes the plunger wheel against the adjuster and it just fits in one position. But I have to say that I had it adjusted to the longest stitch length before I disassembled it. I assembled it again in less than a minute. I´m still learning new things about my machine - nice lesson for me and I have found an other spot I have to clean. I have taken some pictures just for the case you are scared. I hope this helps

Is there a die set for Lift The Dot fasteners for a eyelet / grommet press available? Or at least dies for the stud part? Or has someone have an old complete hand set for the LTD fasteners?

also, make sure the the stitch regulator + gib are installed correctly. When these parts are new they have flattened spot in the middle and the flattened spot should be in the lower position and facing towards the presser foot bar (gib + regulator) - as far as I know. At least this is how they were installed at my 29K71 when I restored it. Picture "stolen" from college sewing UK

I could imagine that the "feed motion ring slide bar" is more worn in some spots than in others depending in which direction they have sewn most of the time. But when even a roller is worn off that it even looks squared I think there will be other parts that are worn off too. Parts may no longer work together properly due to the wear. The shim thing can solve some issues temporarily but bass is not very durable. On the long run you may need a new bell bell crank lever and "feed motion ring slide bar" as these are the parts that rub on each other and your machine is probably several decades old and sooner or later these two parts are just worn off. But I´d assume there will be some more worn parts in your head.

I´m sorry to hear that. Replacing the belt is not the easiest job. You have to remove the hand wheel and the bushing. I did that with my 111G156 last year when I restored it. Regarding the adjuster - there is a spring next to the plunger wheel (the one with the grove) and it is held in place by another disc which is secured with 2 set screws. I´d try to loosen the 2 screws and release the spring. But I have to admit I have not done this before but this could be a solution. Do you have a manual for your machine? Often the Singer manuals have an instruction for mechanics included.

in the beginning you can see her machines - one is a 45K (as it seems) but the other one...

Or a Singer 52W - but could be any post bed sewing machine. Roller foot seems to be a swing away type but I´m not sure. But she has a huge hand wheel installed. Pretty cool shes turning it by hand - one has to tell her about servo motors But I don't see an edge guide.

So the stitch length regulator works again? Nice story - I always like it when people give old things a new life. Especially when they have a little story. In my opinion most of the times it is worth to restore these vintage Singer (and other brand) industrial machines. Often enough there is still a lot of life left in them!

Maybe a good used Singer 45K is machine for you to start with, they are wide spread and are available as flat bed and cylinder bed machines but there are darning machines out there as well so be care full. But they are quite old heavy machines but built like tanks and they last for decades! Parts are still available for them.

Oh - stop - I just noticed that you have option for a 133K13! The 133K13 is not really a leather sewing machine it is a sack darning / repair machine which has not feed at all. The one Harry Rogers uses is a 133K8 (as far as I know). Both mentioned machines are not suitable for heavier leather work.

I´m also looking for a 133K8 for cotton webbing + canvas work. As far as I figured out they were originally made for heavy canvas work. The machine has NO reverse stitching and it also has NOT the common triple feed (compound feed) - it has top and bottom feed but no needle feed. Other than that it seems to be a nice one.

ENIGMA was a German cipher machine - not a sewing machine but maybe there is something "special" going on with this enigma. Maybe the Germans used sewing machines as cipher machines in WWII... One of the "riddles" that never will be solved . **just kidding** Pictures is not very good and too much stuff covering it to make a guess.

The stitch length regulation happens on the underside of the machine. I guess your regulator is stuck because of old oil deposits or so. There are two "wheels", one is the one for the plunger and the other rubs on it when you regulate the stitch length. These 2 wheels work like a clutch I´d say. I assume these two are "gummed up". Some drips of kerosene, paint thinner or penetrating oil may solve this. And oil the entire machine from time to time this prevents everything from gumming up. Do not loosen any set screws this may throw your machine out of time.

Then it is probably your needle bar that causes the problem. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56271&p=360988 It also could be the safety clutch that is released, check this video:

Nice shot! The only reason I could imagine to sell the Juki is that it probably has no reverse. Otherwise I see no advantage for the 111G156.