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Adler Class Iii - Early 1900 Leather Sewing Machine
Constabulary replied to Constabulary's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
The system is obsolete and it is called vibrating shuttle or in German: Schwingschiffchen However it is working very well. Yeah, back in the old days these machines really had a heart and soul I´d say. Nowadays every freakin` machine comes from China and is light grey or white painted (most of them) and from the outside you cannot even tell from which factory they come. I like these vintage machines very much and as long as there is "rusted old cast iron" out there I could not imagine buying a "modern" machine - except a 441 clone - maybe . This has nothing to do with their quality but I just don´t like them. Well, it just looks dangerous but I think there are still some new made machines out there with exposed moving parts. The Campbell Lockstich -
Adler Class Iii - Early 1900 Leather Sewing Machine
Constabulary replied to Constabulary's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Took a bit longer I had to repair a truck tarp for a friend with this machine - worked quite well! Now here are some pictures The large hand wheel is extremely nice for hand cranking single stitches! -
left toe zipper foot
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The feeding in different direction is normal as you have a gear reduction (German "ADLER slang": Rädervorgelege) installed and this changes the direction. But you can change the rotation direction on your motor.
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I have one for a 96-81 which is a bit different (reverse lever and different stitch length adjuster...) but better than having non I also have a parts list but file is too big to upload, if you want it send me a PM with your email address and I will send it asap. 96-81.pdf
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I have to run - just a quick note... Because of the 211 - try a larger size needle or thinner thread. It could also be caused by the needle it self, LR point needles produce a slanted stitch. The bird nest could be caused when the hook is not catching the top thread and the bottom thread winds around the tab of the hook that goes in the gap in the needle plate. Is that problem? EDIT: The Pfaff could be slightly out of time and the needle bar has to be lowered a little bit. That would be my 1st guess w/o knowing how it is timed. Make sure the hook meets the needle scarf approx. 1.6mm above the needle eye when the needle bar is in the upward stroke. Also check if the needle is inserted correctly and the scarf is facing right (if you hook is on the right side).
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Adler Class Iii - Early 1900 Leather Sewing Machine
Constabulary replied to Constabulary's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
It took a while but I´m finally done! I have mounted the machine on an old but restored cast iron ADLER stand with new plate and have added a nice Moretti clutch motor (great clutch motor BTW) Treadle stand is sold. I just have done some longer seams and I´m quite impressed of this old piece of old cast iron - I really like it! Just ran out of batteries for my camera so a couple of pictures and a small video will follow this weekend. So stay tuned if interested -
BTW - this is a quite simple machine. I have never touched one before I got mine and I have stripped it down and reassembled it w/o problems. The only thing you really have to adjust is the hook timing but thats explained in most of the manuals you can download somewhere.
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Don´t know where you are from but I had good experience with College Sewing in the UK. I bought all parts for the restoration of my 29K71 from them and all work fine and the prices are reasonable compared with Ebay. Especially the needle bar has a very good price. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/Singer29K,29USewingMachineParts Most parts for the 29K71 will work for the 29K51 as well but you have to compare the parts numbers. this was my restoration project: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56079#entry360060
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Is it really so difficult to find used / vintage heavy leather machines for a reasonable price in the US? I come across about a hand full flat beds every month. cylinder beds are harder to find here. I should probably start to export some to the US and Australia. Seems there is a market
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As I said, I don´t know the Davis machines but it does not look as heavy as a Singer 45K. They are not comparable I think. The Davis seems to have a walking foot BUT no feed dog this means the materials is feed by just a small foot. This will work for garment or thin leather but I doubt it will work for heavy leather. I also don´t know what needle sizes are available for this machine. If you don´t find needles in a proper size it makes no sense. I don´t know if Davis made heavy machines at all I still would not buy it for $350 and would not even pay $100. But thats just my opinion.
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Amateur's Mistake - Ruined A Part
Constabulary replied to Evo160K's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Is it for your CLAES patcher? try a roll bin instead, they are available ins dozens of sizes. I also ruined a pin at my 29K71 and replaced it with a roll pin and it works perfect. http://www.ebay.com/itm/M3-3MM-x-22-22MM-Roll-Spring-Pin-Metric-PK-10-/231295793444?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35da4db924 But you may find them cheaper local at hardware store or so. -
29K62 Washer (Part.n.:84113)Thicknees
Constabulary replied to BROD239's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
The leather washer I had on my 29K71 was about 1mm or 1.5mm but after I have finished my restoration I have not put it back on. I have attached instructions for 29K manual I hope this will help you to adjust your machine. Singer 29K Instructions.pdf -
there are too many different machines out there to know all the specs. I think it "could" be possible that you find one that works. But remember, the post bed machines have a much higher positioned hand wheel so the position of your motor pulley is important because the angle of the V- belt is different. So you may change the position of the motor or extend the V-belt slot in the table. Like I said, I have two Singers and the only thing I have to change is th V-Belt. That works because the hand wheel position is almost the same.
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Tables are not universals but a lot of flat bed machines have very similar bed dissensions. I`m using a Singer 111G156 and a Singer 307G2 on one table as both machines have the same size flat bed. This saves me a lot of space as the 307G2 is not my "main machine" but I use it for zig zag and lighter flat stuff. I just need a 2nd V-Belt which is permanently hanging on my speed reducer so I can switch between the machines in just a few seconds. But there are also longer flat beds for example some older Pfaff or Duerkopp have longer flat beds because the same machines housings were used for single and double needle machines. The modern motors have all the same mounting holes but older motors may have different holes. I know older motors with 4 mounting holes but most have just 3.
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No - and no other sewing machine should do that either. The discs should only release when you lift the presser foot but not during the sewing process. otherwise you are loosing the top thread tension. So I´d say there is something wrong with your 31K. When your top thread is between the tension discs you should "feel" the difference when you pull your top thread when the foot is down and when your foot is lifted. When the foot is down the thread has more resistance / tension. Parts #9 is moving up and down all the time but only releases the tension when the foot is lifted.
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VERY old - I guess form the late 1800 or early 1900. I don´t know the machine but it looks as if it is a vibrating shuttle machine which is an obsolete system (obsolete for decades). I´d only buy if you are a sewing machine collector. You may have trouble finding needles (depends on the needle system) bobbins, shuttles and other spare parts but main reason is that it is way to expensive and you can get much better machines with much better performance for $400. A used machines with walking foot / triple feed is what you should look for. This is just my evaluation from viewing the picture (same picture posted twice). Maybe you can post some more from the underside, front side and so on.
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Black Brass 4 Piece Snaps. Where To Get Please
Constabulary replied to joefriday's topic in Hardware and Accessories
Or try DOT fasteners / Scovill http://snaps.dotfasteners.com/category/durable-8482--2 -
Stitch Length On Singer 111W151-Need Advice
Constabulary replied to patches's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
You are welcome! Nice to hear that everything works! Singer 294 - I guess you have a 29-4, right? -
probably the CB3200 from Toledo Sewing - it even hast the walking foot mechanism http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html
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regarding the vintage Singer 111w series machines - I agree with Wiz in most points but from my point of view it could be worth restoring these old machines. I personally have restored my 111w156 (with reverse) from the late 1950´s and most parts are available at reasonable prices for the 111w series. That is a big advantage. But it is true that most of them may need a lot of TLC but it always depends on what you find. But I have to admit that I'm a bit "vintage machine crazy" and personally do not like these white painted heartless machines from China but that has nothing to do with their performance or durability. Modern machines have for sure a better performance but when money is an issue a vintage Singer 111w (or other brands) is a good option. Often they are old clunkers - yes - but most still have a lot of life left. Mine runs like a dream, no serious problem since I have restored it. I really love it and I would not trade it for a machine from China. The only nice to have would be a larger bobbin but I can deal with it. But again, that is my personal point of view. Check out the threads of the last 4 weeks at "Leather Sewing Machines" and you will find some threads of members who have found a nice vintage walking foot machines (not only Singer 111w) for really good prices. You are not the only in this situation. I´d give a vintage machine a try and in best case you will find one in good working condition which just needs a little TLC. BTW - the Singer 95 has an odd timing belt which is quite expensive when it is worn or ripped.
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M-size bobbins are not small! They are about 1" in diameter. I have a bobbin guide - don´t know where it came from but I have it on my PC ...
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I just thought because of the hand crank as there is no belt but no problem at all, it was just an idea
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... lamps From time to time I´m checking the eBay for vintage lamps and other nice vintage "junk" and what sometimes is crossing my search is that some people turn broken or unwanted sewing machines or just parts of it into lamps. A neat idea and some of them really don't look bad. And with a little work you really can get some good bucks for them as it seems. This is probably and Idea for you Steampunk fans out there... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Singer-Jones-Sewing-Machine-Table-Lamp-Light-Steampunk-Retro-Industrial-/331272661602?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item4d2163aa62 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Chrome-Singer-Sewing-Machine-Table-Lamp-Light-Steampunk-Retro-Industrial-/331270801796?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item4d21474984 http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SINGER-1935-99k-SEWING-MACHINE-TABLE-LIGHT-LAMP-STEAMPUNK-UPCYCLED-/380962930355?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item58b328feb3