Constabulary

Maybe a good used Singer 45K is machine for you to start with, they are wide spread and are available as flat bed and cylinder bed machines but there are darning machines out there as well so be care full. But they are quite old heavy machines but built like tanks and they last for decades! Parts are still available for them.

Oh - stop - I just noticed that you have option for a 133K13! The 133K13 is not really a leather sewing machine it is a sack darning / repair machine which has not feed at all. The one Harry Rogers uses is a 133K8 (as far as I know). Both mentioned machines are not suitable for heavier leather work.

I´m also looking for a 133K8 for cotton webbing + canvas work. As far as I figured out they were originally made for heavy canvas work. The machine has NO reverse stitching and it also has NOT the common triple feed (compound feed) - it has top and bottom feed but no needle feed. Other than that it seems to be a nice one.

ENIGMA was a German cipher machine - not a sewing machine but maybe there is something "special" going on with this enigma. Maybe the Germans used sewing machines as cipher machines in WWII... One of the "riddles" that never will be solved . **just kidding** Pictures is not very good and too much stuff covering it to make a guess.

The stitch length regulation happens on the underside of the machine. I guess your regulator is stuck because of old oil deposits or so. There are two "wheels", one is the one for the plunger and the other rubs on it when you regulate the stitch length. These 2 wheels work like a clutch I´d say. I assume these two are "gummed up". Some drips of kerosene, paint thinner or penetrating oil may solve this. And oil the entire machine from time to time this prevents everything from gumming up. Do not loosen any set screws this may throw your machine out of time.

Then it is probably your needle bar that causes the problem. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56271&p=360988 It also could be the safety clutch that is released, check this video:

Nice shot! The only reason I could imagine to sell the Juki is that it probably has no reverse. Otherwise I see no advantage for the 111G156.

This is how it works on the above mentioned clutch motor when run on 220V single phase with delta connection and capacitor - not sure if it looks the same on yours. otherwise this Video should give you an idea:

As far as I remember on an AC motor you have to switch the 2 wires of the starting coil. Don´t know how your motor is wired and if it has a capacitor nor not but when I work on our German Pfaff, WEG, or Kobold brand clutch motors (all set up with capacitors for 220V singe phase) you just have to switch one cable in the junction box. But don´t ask me how this works on your certain motor, I´m not an electrician.

will try to walk on water next time.

There also is a small curved metal piece where the thread take up spring rests on - it is missing at your machine.

so no need for having this pinned any longer - or?

I think everything you need is on my Pfaff machine. Pictures will be sent by PN

THIS IS REALLY AWESOME !!!!

oooh men - you really have fully stripped it. Good luck with adjusting it when you have assembled it again. I will send pictures of my "spare parts machine" tomorrow.

I have a Pfaff 142 which I would sell for parts or I can strip the parts from if if you want, this saves shipping costs. I can send some pictures if you are interested. It´s possibly much cheaper than buying new parts but it is up to you.

holy cow - thats really bad + sad! Where do you live that it took so long for delivery? I have a Pfaff 141 or 142 (head only) which may have a couple of parts you may need but I´m not sure how the condition is - if it is "too good" I will keep it. I will look for the machine later today - maybe you are interested in it for taking spare parts from it....

Thats true. People have to understand how a clutch works in general (basically the same way as in your car). The 2" pulley thing for clutch motor has been discussed quite often and I think most people understand that there is no magical cure at all and I think no one said that there will be a change in the ramp up as there is no "throttle" or so. The clutch motor always runs at one speed so there is not much you can do. You either have full clutch contact or you can "try" to slip the clutch discs but that depends on the motor and condition of the discs. And thats how you control the speed of your machine - often enough a difficult task. Installing a smaller motor pulley is basically just the cheapest way to get a little bit more control of the speed of you machine. Sewing speed and motor speed are 2 different things, it depends on the size of the motor pulley and pulley at the hand wheel or the relation between the two. As there are not many options for changing the hand wheel so the only way is to install a smaller motor pulley. There are a few more hints to get a better control of a clutch motor. If the V- belt is too tight you have to loosen it a bit and this MAY give you a bit more control of the clutch. You can also open it and clean it and put some grease at dry or clogged up spots (if you able to). There are so many different clutch motors and so many different servo motors - there simply can´t be the one and only solution.

@ Trox, I indeed was thinking about "trying" to put the sync. on the speed reducer when I figured something is not working as expected but I don´t want to make a lot of fuss just for having the needle up or down. Maybe it will work with the new sync. - if not I don´t care. As I said, you really don´t need a sync. at low speed as you can watch the needle traveling and the motor stops immediately when I take the foot off the pedal. So what. But always nice to get some technical input from you

Thats right, it just slows down the machine and increases the torque. The motor still turns at the same speed. A smaller pulley has no effect on the motor configurations.

@ Jack - sorry for "occupying" your thread Trox, seems the Jack actually has a problem with the NPS at very slow speed. High speed worked. But with the speed reducer installed it seems that the synchronizer has some problems. I reported it to College Sewing and a new (improved?) synchronizer is on the way already. But I figured I don´t really need a NPS at slow speed because you really can see where your needles will stop so from my point of view the NPS makes sense for high speed sewing but for slow sewing it doesn´t make a difference if I have one or not. But I still would recommend this motor and I will buy one again but w/o the NPS as I don´t really need it. I will update my review of the motor when the new synchronizer has arrived. I think it always depends on your personal "sewing situation" whether a motor suits for one or not. I have tried a few and this is the first I`m really please with but have to admit it is the first I´m using with a speed reducer and it makes a big difference. BTW - this was my 2nd Servo www.ebay.de/itm/251326331365 and the NPS did not position the needle properly, it always made 1 or 2 stitches too much. And it had this annoying "beeeeeeeep" sound + it made an different sound when it was positioning the needle. Seller said this will end after 30Hrs but it didn´t. Next problem was you can´t turn off the NPS. And buying the same motor w/o NPS was not an option because of the stupid sound. So this and not having the money for an EFKA lead me to the Jack motor which even has much more power and I like it!

Morning Trox - seems you are an early bird too @ Joe I´d personally go with a new servo too. You can buy a smaller pulley and new clutch discs but you may find out that the motor is still too fast and you already have one of the "slower" types with 1725rpm. I have used several different clutch motors and the worst to control was a Singer from the 1980´s. It is still floating around here - that was a beast with 2800rpm and an almost uncontrollable clutch. The best clutch motor I had was a Pfaff (made by WEG Germany) but nothing beats my current servo. I have had 2 servos before I got my current one (which I really like). One arrived broke (well that can happen) and the other one had a poor needle positioning system and made an annoying "beeeeeeeeep" sound. The one I´m using is a JACK JK-563A1 with NPS but I figured I do not need a needles positioning system as I´m sewing rather slow so I can see where and when the needle will stop. But I don´t think the JACK motors are not available in the US. I think the FESM-550 seems to be a good one - Wizcraft often recommends it in some of his post. I remember there was one with a gear reduction (suffix GR) and I think It came from Toledo Sewing Machine Co. But I don´t know if it is still available. I´d contact them for further details.

the hook has to meet the needle above the needle eye when the needle is on the way up again. Look how it works on your 31-15 when you turn the hand wheel slowly. It´s probably the needle bar you have to adjust a bit.

I´m sure there are a couple of Enduro owners. Search for Enduro here in the forum and you will find a couple of posts. Some motors were modified by the owner and I know there are youtube videos about this modification. But as far as I know there already is a 2nd generation of Enduros but I´m not sure if they have solved the issued with the speed control. I wanted to buy this Enduro as well but decided to buy a different motor in the UK as I´m from Germany. It was just a question of $$ (ordering in the US means higher shipping + custom fees). EDIT: Check with Universal Sewing Co. Before I decided to buy in the UK I emailed them a few times and alway got a fast response. They also offer spare parts for the Enduro. https://www.universalsewing.com/tek9.asp?pg=search&mode=results&searchby=Products&srch=&usssearchby=type&usscriteria=448.1

for the needle vocabulary