Constabulary

Catskin - if you are pointing on me you probably got me wrong. I don´t say the new (or Chinese made) machines are bad, most are for sure not bad. I just doubt that they are as long living as the machines form the 1930´s - 1950´s I even think that the tolerances are tighter than 50 years ago - but is it good or is it bad? It pretty much depends on the materials (f.i. forged iron or just cast iron) they have used. A friend of mine once told me that nowadays when you see a lot of chrome or nickel plated parts on a machine (not only sewing machines) it is pretty obvious that the parts are not forged. It most likely is cheap cast iron and the chrome / nickel plating just covers the poor casting and shall make it look like high quality. Often enough old simple technology is longer lasting than anything new build. But I thing the example with the Artisan feet that I gave is pretty obvious. To me it looks like the machine was just made to sell fast and to make profit. If they were made to last I think spare parts shouldn´t be a problem for a 10 or 20 years old machine.

You are welcome Steve - always glad when I can help!

What you mean with X - Y axis with step motor? I know what X and Y axis is but I cannot get the relation to a sewing machine but sounds interesting. Will it be for sewing WW boxes? The bobbin is totally different. The 133K and 132K have large rotary hooks and not an oscillating hooks like the 45K, Adler 20, Singer 7 and so forth. To give you and idea of the dimensions:

Yes, I like it very much! Next thing will be a "custom" harness foot with short heel I´m planing to make as I sometimes have to sew box tacks close to heavy hardware. Similar to this one: VanRhodes - How is your project going?

small update. I finally have installed a new feed dog as I had some issues with inconstant stitches because of worn off teeth. For the records and those who might care: The original feed dog that came with the 133K3 has part # 98402 I actually found one but it would have cost me £58.05 + shipping (thats about $90 + shipping) so I have ordered a feed dog with parts # 97625 which was just £5. It actually fits BUT the tooth part of the # 97625 is about 2mm flatter. I could probably lift the feeding mechanism but I don´t want to mess with the timing so I just put 2mm Delrin under the new feed dog and grind down the needle plate on the inside a little bit - voila - it works perfect. Nice stitching - perfect feeding - I´m very pleased! Small video:

Depends on the power but I´m sure it will! I once ran my 111G156 with a 370Watts 1400rpm clutch motor - no problems - just a bit too fast. I switched to a servo motor and would never go back to a clutch. This is probably something you should consider. If you don´t mind post some pictures of the machines - I always like to see other peoples "old cast iron"

cool chair by the way nice idea to put LTD´s on it to attach the straps.

The youngest machine I have is a Singer 29K71 from the late 1960´s and the oldest a Singer 133K from 1932. They ALL are restored machines (more or less) and they ALL run w/o problem since the day I personally have restored / refurbished them and I´m not a sewing machine mechanic. Why do I buy used machines? 1st off all for money reasons! I believe you get the most for your money when you are buying used machines of well known manufacturers with good reputation. It also is some sort of environmental protection - I think I don´t have to explain it - or do I have to? But it of course depends on your personal situation - how fast do you need the machine and how much you can spend and how is the market in your era (or the www) and can you find a used machine with the specs you require. But used machines can be a risk as well. The more the paint is worn off, the more old oil and dust (or even rust) they have the bigger the risk is. But I personally never had bigger problems - even with very worn looking machines (as my Singer 111) but it of course is a risk and you need the time to restore them - if necessary. I´m personally not in a hurry as I´m not "sewing for a living". It is more or less a hobby for me and I like to keep these old clunkers alive because I´m convinced of their quality and durability. I think durability is THE word what it is all about since you should "get back" what you have spent with what you are producing with the machine. And you get back the the money earlier the less you have spent for your (used) equipment and the longer your equipment lasts the more profit you can make. Simple & stupid - maybe - but isn´t it that way? It took a lot of time and trial and error before I found and found out what I really need but that was a good learning and fun. And I´m sure I'm not done! Learning can also safe you a lot of money. The more you know about your machines the less you have to pay for service - if you know what I mean. So you have to try to balance pro + contras of new and used machines. Back then industrial machines were build to last and to repair and and the market was small. There were just a few known manufacturers so it was a little bit a competition. They tried to stand out with the quality of their products and technical features and not with the cheapest the price. Nowadays you have dozens of Asian manufactures with names you will probably not hear again in 10 years - if you hear or read their names at all somewhere. They all produce (or copy) the successful machines of the well known manufacturers. The best example is the Juki 441 or Singer 111 - everybody knows them and knows their copies as well. Of course the Adler 67, 167 or Pfaff 145 and 545 are more or less copies (or as others say - an interpretation) of the Singer 111 but I think I don´t have to loose words and everybody knows that the 2 mentioned are top quality Mfg´s (among others like Juki, Seiko...). But all the Chinese Mfg´s are in a fight for market power and I don´t think the quality will become much better in their part of the world. They for sure have learned over the years but that does not convince me. Nowadays in most cases the sale of an item depends on the price. And how can you compare quality without knowing the manufacturer? All machines look the same. The only (outside) difference it the label some on put on the machine. And what I DO NOT like is that they all look exactly the same - they just have different labels or plaques attached - thats it! But how can you know that all these Look-A-Likes are mfg. to the same specs and have exactly the same dimensional accuracy w/o really knowing who made the machine? No problem as long as the machine is a couple of years old but how is it in 25 years? Who can tell you if this or that part will fit - I´m sure no one knows. You just have to try if a part will fir or not because no one knows the "real" manufacturer and maybe the Mfg. in China is gone already. I´m not convince that I will read names like Golden Wheel, Soje, Kaixuan, Duma, Feifeng, Jack, Jukai (not JUKI - ha ha), Jakly or what ever they are called in 50 + year. (BTW - google JACK, JAKLY and JUKAI and tell me what you have figured - pretty obvious, isn´t it) In one of the latest post a member was looking for an ARTISAN presser foot but Artisan was not able to deliver it!!! Hell, what - they cannot deliver a presser foot for their own machines! WOW! And thats how it starts - now lets look how it is in 20 years. I think you still can buy Singer parts but who knows if Artisan can deliver parts for their own branded or labeled machines? Do you see what I mean? Don´t get me wrong - I don´t think the quality is bad in general I just don´t believe they will last as long the old known brands did or still do. And the availability of parts is another story. If parts are not available the machine is dead! But as I said before - you have to try to balance pro + contras of new and used machines. And a good documentation and a dealer with a good reputation is quite important the more complex a machine is - no matter if new or used! Just my 2 cents (or is it a Dollar already?) - or shorty story long

Personal opinion - I´d paint it and put new decals on it

BTW - never let the feed dog rub on your presser foot. Either lift the foot or put some fabric or leather between them otherwise both will wear off and parts are expensive.

Sorry but the videos are a bit short. But when you say the needle hit plate it is most likely the needle bar that needs an adjustment. The needle bar has 2 screws on a clamp, you have to loosen both and adjust the needle bar the way that the hook tip meets the needle scarf about 2.5mm above the needle eye within the needle scarf. But first check if the needle meets the hook as mentioned and them make an adjustment. I can´t help very much with the feeding as I never worked on a 45K cylinder machine. I also have never seen a 45K service manual.

Sorry - no tension stud! I thought I had one. 45K parts are hard to find but maybe the tension stud of the GA5-1 or Cowboy CB2500 will fit as they are more or less modern copy of the Singer 45K. I´d contact Toledo Sewing. I often heard they have parts for older machines and they also have the CB2500 so this should be a good source for it. Here is your parts list (direct download from Universal Sewing) Parts List singer 45K21, 45K25

The pulley is correct! Left and right of the pulley should be a felt disc on either side. From let to right it should be assembled like this: Nut - spring - washer - felt disc - pulley - felt disc - washer - stud (of course) - check spring The long curved piece is a foot lift lever. It normally is connected with a mechanism under the table from where you can lift the foot with your knee - or it is connected to a 2nd pedal near your treadle pedal (the one for the motor) so you can lift it with your foot. Is your bobbin winder missing? What you should take care of is that the small check spring that sits on the tension stud (and inside the face plate) always rests on the small pin and that the thread travels first around the pulley then over the pin near the pulley and the through the check spring. I have attached a picture of my old Adler 104

I may have the tension stud but have to look for it. Which one is broken? The one on the back or the one on the left side (face plate)?

Seems everything is answered. BTW - this is the accessory page from Toledo Sewing: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb-acc-pack.html Flat bed is $85

How about a CB4500 with flat bed attachment if you need a machine with the same specs. I think Juki and Adler will be even more expensive!!! just as a quick shot - Jukis alternative would be TNU-243 & TU-273 or Cosew 757 & 2040

My machines are all very well oiled - even the OPEC might be jealous

I´m sure it will be cheaper. My current pulleys were just 40€ but they are for 8mm V-belts and 150mm in diamter so It hink the 200mm one for 10mm V-belts will be a bit more - I asume 50-55€. But I have to ask. Shaft and adjsuting rings are not very ecpensive I think. BTW - how long do you need the shaft?

Hi Eric, nice to "read" you again. I had no sewing problem but your post made me check the settings at my 111G and I adjusted the opener to open a bit earlier and indeed the little chattering is gone - I always though the hook is a bit worn due to the age of my machine but seems it isn't. THANK YOU!!!

Not sure what you are paninig to do but I´d ask college sewing as they are the seller of this parts.

I don´t think you have to worry. You once had a huge treadle wheel on your stand and the speed reducer is much smaller! The width of the speed reducer is about 4.5 - 5cm + 1 adjusting ring of about 1.5cm width on either side. But in case you don`t have enough space you probably have to move the table plate a bit to the left or to the right. I can´t tell from the picture how much space you need but when you go straight down from the balance wheel (just how the V- belt will run) then there is the position of the small pulley. Position of the large pulley is your choice... If the hole in the leg is 15mm then you just have to buy a 15mm shaft of the needed length and 2 or 4 15mm adjusting rings. Maybe you can buy these parts locally but I can ask for prices too - I don´t mind. If the leg has 1 or 2 set screws for fixing the shaft you only need 2 rings - if there are no set screws you need 4 adjusting rings. You know what I mean?

@ AEH I forgot to mention that College Sewing has not smaller pulleys fort the Jack Servos. The Jacks have pulleys with 13mm straight bore and College Sewing only has pulleys with 15mm straight bore as far as I remember. @mikesc No problem but don´t forget that shipping comes on top. Depends on how heavy they are - registered airmail all over the world is just about 10€ for a package up to 1Kg. The one I would order will be for a 10mm V-belt, has a 200mm and 50mm pulley, 2 ball bearings and they will fit on a 15mm shaft. So this is the reducer pulley only w/o any mount or flange. If some one needs a certain shaft I of course will ask for it too. But thats it - everything else would be too complicated They guys is now on holidays for 10 days so it will take at least 14 days to get a quote. So if some one is interested please send me a PN and I will try to get a quote for reducer pulleys and shaft (if needed).

depends on what you are sewing and what machines you have. I have 4 sewing machines and would not miss one of them. Though I don´t use them all every day but you never know what it is good for.

@ mikesc well, that explaines a lot - sounds a little bit like the situation in Greece. We don´t live in a perfect world - thats how it goes. But thats all a different story lets get back to topic @ vanrhodes thanks for the lesson in math - it never was my favorite! @ AEH I can ask the guy who makes the speed reducer for me if he can make some more.I actually thought about a bigger 50mm / 200mm speed reducer for my Singer 133K. I will probably get a better price if I order more. When I look at your stand - there should be a hole in the right leg where once the shaft for the treadle pulley was - if you know what I mean. So this is perfect for adding a speed reducer. Pretty much the same situation as on my stand but I have a flange bolted on the leg.

Just before I shot the Video my new 40mm pulleys have arrived (custom made and not from College Sewing) and I have installed them. So the new motor pulleys are 40mm, the pulleys at the speed reducer are 50mm and 150mm and the balance / fly wheel is 150mm as well. So it goes from 40mm to 150mm and from 50mm to 150mm. I´m very please with the performance so far, I only have problems with the old resin coated Army nylon webbing as it it extremely stiff and dense because of the resin coating. Seems I need a leather point needle instead of a round point but thats a different story. Regarding the new laws - wow - that is something I would have expected in the "bureaucratic" Germany but not in France My speed reducers are custom made so I have someone on hand who mills the pulleys out of aluminum. The reducer pulleys have 2 ball bearings so they are really nice and of a fine quality! When I ordered them I had no clue what the actual effects will be so I ordered them with 3 steps but 2 steps (50mm / 150m) enough so no need for the middle pulley. I´m still learning... ;-)