Constabulary

Personal opinion - I´d paint it and put new decals on it

BTW - never let the feed dog rub on your presser foot. Either lift the foot or put some fabric or leather between them otherwise both will wear off and parts are expensive.

Sorry but the videos are a bit short. But when you say the needle hit plate it is most likely the needle bar that needs an adjustment. The needle bar has 2 screws on a clamp, you have to loosen both and adjust the needle bar the way that the hook tip meets the needle scarf about 2.5mm above the needle eye within the needle scarf. But first check if the needle meets the hook as mentioned and them make an adjustment. I can´t help very much with the feeding as I never worked on a 45K cylinder machine. I also have never seen a 45K service manual.

Sorry - no tension stud! I thought I had one. 45K parts are hard to find but maybe the tension stud of the GA5-1 or Cowboy CB2500 will fit as they are more or less modern copy of the Singer 45K. I´d contact Toledo Sewing. I often heard they have parts for older machines and they also have the CB2500 so this should be a good source for it. Here is your parts list (direct download from Universal Sewing) Parts List singer 45K21, 45K25

The pulley is correct! Left and right of the pulley should be a felt disc on either side. From let to right it should be assembled like this: Nut - spring - washer - felt disc - pulley - felt disc - washer - stud (of course) - check spring The long curved piece is a foot lift lever. It normally is connected with a mechanism under the table from where you can lift the foot with your knee - or it is connected to a 2nd pedal near your treadle pedal (the one for the motor) so you can lift it with your foot. Is your bobbin winder missing? What you should take care of is that the small check spring that sits on the tension stud (and inside the face plate) always rests on the small pin and that the thread travels first around the pulley then over the pin near the pulley and the through the check spring. I have attached a picture of my old Adler 104

I may have the tension stud but have to look for it. Which one is broken? The one on the back or the one on the left side (face plate)?

Seems everything is answered. BTW - this is the accessory page from Toledo Sewing: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb-acc-pack.html Flat bed is $85

How about a CB4500 with flat bed attachment if you need a machine with the same specs. I think Juki and Adler will be even more expensive!!! just as a quick shot - Jukis alternative would be TNU-243 & TU-273 or Cosew 757 & 2040

My machines are all very well oiled - even the OPEC might be jealous

I´m sure it will be cheaper. My current pulleys were just 40€ but they are for 8mm V-belts and 150mm in diamter so It hink the 200mm one for 10mm V-belts will be a bit more - I asume 50-55€. But I have to ask. Shaft and adjsuting rings are not very ecpensive I think. BTW - how long do you need the shaft?

Hi Eric, nice to "read" you again. I had no sewing problem but your post made me check the settings at my 111G and I adjusted the opener to open a bit earlier and indeed the little chattering is gone - I always though the hook is a bit worn due to the age of my machine but seems it isn't. THANK YOU!!!

Not sure what you are paninig to do but I´d ask college sewing as they are the seller of this parts.

I don´t think you have to worry. You once had a huge treadle wheel on your stand and the speed reducer is much smaller! The width of the speed reducer is about 4.5 - 5cm + 1 adjusting ring of about 1.5cm width on either side. But in case you don`t have enough space you probably have to move the table plate a bit to the left or to the right. I can´t tell from the picture how much space you need but when you go straight down from the balance wheel (just how the V- belt will run) then there is the position of the small pulley. Position of the large pulley is your choice... If the hole in the leg is 15mm then you just have to buy a 15mm shaft of the needed length and 2 or 4 15mm adjusting rings. Maybe you can buy these parts locally but I can ask for prices too - I don´t mind. If the leg has 1 or 2 set screws for fixing the shaft you only need 2 rings - if there are no set screws you need 4 adjusting rings. You know what I mean?

@ AEH I forgot to mention that College Sewing has not smaller pulleys fort the Jack Servos. The Jacks have pulleys with 13mm straight bore and College Sewing only has pulleys with 15mm straight bore as far as I remember. @mikesc No problem but don´t forget that shipping comes on top. Depends on how heavy they are - registered airmail all over the world is just about 10€ for a package up to 1Kg. The one I would order will be for a 10mm V-belt, has a 200mm and 50mm pulley, 2 ball bearings and they will fit on a 15mm shaft. So this is the reducer pulley only w/o any mount or flange. If some one needs a certain shaft I of course will ask for it too. But thats it - everything else would be too complicated They guys is now on holidays for 10 days so it will take at least 14 days to get a quote. So if some one is interested please send me a PN and I will try to get a quote for reducer pulleys and shaft (if needed).

depends on what you are sewing and what machines you have. I have 4 sewing machines and would not miss one of them. Though I don´t use them all every day but you never know what it is good for.

@ mikesc well, that explaines a lot - sounds a little bit like the situation in Greece. We don´t live in a perfect world - thats how it goes. But thats all a different story lets get back to topic @ vanrhodes thanks for the lesson in math - it never was my favorite! @ AEH I can ask the guy who makes the speed reducer for me if he can make some more.I actually thought about a bigger 50mm / 200mm speed reducer for my Singer 133K. I will probably get a better price if I order more. When I look at your stand - there should be a hole in the right leg where once the shaft for the treadle pulley was - if you know what I mean. So this is perfect for adding a speed reducer. Pretty much the same situation as on my stand but I have a flange bolted on the leg.

Just before I shot the Video my new 40mm pulleys have arrived (custom made and not from College Sewing) and I have installed them. So the new motor pulleys are 40mm, the pulleys at the speed reducer are 50mm and 150mm and the balance / fly wheel is 150mm as well. So it goes from 40mm to 150mm and from 50mm to 150mm. I´m very please with the performance so far, I only have problems with the old resin coated Army nylon webbing as it it extremely stiff and dense because of the resin coating. Seems I need a leather point needle instead of a round point but thats a different story. Regarding the new laws - wow - that is something I would have expected in the "bureaucratic" Germany but not in France My speed reducers are custom made so I have someone on hand who mills the pulleys out of aluminum. The reducer pulleys have 2 ball bearings so they are really nice and of a fine quality! When I ordered them I had no clue what the actual effects will be so I ordered them with 3 steps but 2 steps (50mm / 150m) enough so no need for the middle pulley. I´m still learning... ;-)

Just wanted to give you an idea of how it looks when my Jack motor is running at 200 rpm and how slow the needles goes up and down. Event an 500 and 1200 rpm it is still relatively slow stitching. So the more reduction you have the faster you can run the motor and the more punch you have at your needle at a slow speed. I´m not a technician and I cannot calculate the speed reduction from motor to balance wheel or the "belt distance reduction" in meters per second (or so) correctly but it is extremely slow and it works well. Quite sunny today - sorry about the light conditions but I think you can see what I mean. I hope this helps.

I use mine rarely. it is more or less a dust catcher (I maybe use it once or twice a month) as it really has it´s limitations. The only reason I have it is the 360° head and long thin arm. You can sew (repair) spots inside bags and pouches you cannot sew with other machines. I use 138 (20 metric) thread with my 29K71 w/o problems (it may take thicker thread but have not tried yet) but due to the tiny bobbin there is not much thread on it. Anyway - a nice to have machine but I would not pay big $ to get one. I would not buy a used one w/o knowing how long the stitches are (Wiz explained it). But it depends on how much a seller asks for the machine. I bought mine for just 40€ (unrestored) but I had to spent ~150€ + to replace parts and to restore. I did not know how long the stitches are until I had restored it but is makes 4.5mm stitches which is very good for a used patcher. It now is a really nice and functional machine for the money. But I think these patchers are far away from being a comfortable sewing machine for producing a commercial grade products. Juts my 2 cents.

Sounds good. Maybe I´m just to dumb - you never know

@VanRhodes I´m no scientist or electric engineer. All I can say is that it worked w/o the speed reducer and is not working after I added the speed reducer. That is m experience so far. I would make a video with and without the reducer but the belt cannot reach the motor pulley. I bought the 750Watts motor with NPS and the 550Watts w/o NPS. I will try if the NPS works with the 550Watts motor when I´m puzzling on my setup next time but that may take a few weeks.

It all depends on the ration between motor pulley and balance wheel. The smaller the motor pulley and the larger the balance wheel the slower the machine sews. 500rpm is the lowest top speed setting - meaning the motor makes max 500 RPM when you push the pedal down fully. The motor runs actually at 200rpm (slowest possible speed) regarding the display. When you add a speed reducer it will be much slower. I have added on both machines a 1:3 speed reducer and my Singer 133K sews much slower at 200rpm (motor rpm) than the Singer 111 as the 133K has a much larger balance wheel. I just have ordered custom made 40mm pulley to get a more torque.

Here is the thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56955&p=365941 @VanRhodes Maybe it is different with your machine as far as I remember you have a fixed gear reduction mounted on your machine so there is no belt slippage... but I don´t know for sure. Just a guess.

I think TROX or someone else explained in in an other thread, it is because of the belt slippage as far as I remember. I don´t know for sure if other sewing machines / other servos with NPS wok with speed reducers but my experience is that the Jack Servos do not! I´ll try to find the thread... When I look at the Cobra 4 and Cowboy 4500 it seems these machines also come w/o an NPS and both have speed reducers so I don´t know. I think it is a general issue when you are using speed reducers but I´m not sure...

I had this one but with 400 watts http://www.ebay.de/itm/SERVO-MOTOR-mit-Nadelpositionierung-ZYT-250-W-/350886574903?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Haushaltsger%C3%A4te_N%C3%A4hmaschinen_PM&hash=item51b2783b37 it made an unbelievable annoying "beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep" sound when it was running and the needle positioning system did not work properly (even without speed reducer) Not sure if they have updated the new models but I would not buy it again. The other one was unbranded and I don´t recall the model and I no longer see them for sell so I cannot provide a model name or a link. But it came from SEWTEX in Germany. It was a pain to deal with them - I finally got my money back from Paypal. The rest is history! I´m very very please with the Jack Servos and I recently have bought a 2nd motor. But if you have or need a speed reducer on your machine then the needles positioning system of the Jack servos will not work. But I figured I don´t need the NPS at slow speed as I can see where the needle will stop. So I ordered the 2nd motor w/o needle positioning system.