Constabulary

In my Singer manual I read this: (That is about 1.6 millimeter) and Since the mechanism is quite similar it should work for your Adler as well. But it may require some additional minimal adjustments... You probably have to play a little bit with the settings.

Grinding down needles is not a good idea as long as you can buy needles for your machine. I don´t know how the Adler looks from below but I think they are very similar to Pfaff. Here are pictures of an older Pfaff. In my case you have to loosen the 2 bolts which attach the hook bracket to the housing and the 2 screws that hold the gear on the hook drive shaft. The 2 Bolt are probably very tight! But thats it - then you can move the gear and hook bracket. It should look very similar at your machine. If not post a picture of your machine shown from below.

Never heard of such issue before but I learn something new every day. Glad this is solved.

No, they are 230V. I have seen them from about 90Watts up to 250Watts or so. But now I see they even make them with 300Watts meanwhile.

I guess it is the long needle that it rubbing, right? Then you have to adjust the needle bar. The hook point has to meet the needle scarf in the upward moment. If the needle is too long the hook hits the needle above the scarf.

Needles of different length of course do not work without adjusting the needle bar since the hook cannot catch the thread loop. Isn't it the machine with the big cut out you recently haven bought? So in Your case the hooks seems to be on the left side instead of the right side. Are you sure you insert the needle correctly the way that the needle scarf faces toward the hook? See picture for what the "scraf" is. In case the needle then still rubs against the hook you probably have to move the hook mechanism away from the needle just a tiny bit.

... or somewhere else in the system. There are a lot of moving parts. Open the top plate and faceplate and flip back the machine and look from below to see if there is something that don´t belong in there.

I mean these little Morettis: http://www.ocelmoretti.com/ocel/en/node/13 It has a system of small metal tongues an they work as a kind of resistor just like a potentiometer or so. They are a little bit like the servos and they just run when when you press the pedal. No clue how these are called in English but we call them "Anlassermotor". Its about the same system as the used in domestic machiens where the resistor is in the foot pedal... Sorry can´t explain it technically correct. Anyway - I just like this system. The oldest motor of this kind (not a Moretti) I worked on was from a 1944 Singer machine which belonged to a friend. I just had to change the brushes and cleaned it a little bit and at the 1st try it worked perfect. No noise when not running and very little noise while operating. I will look if I can find some pictures of it. As I said before I just have another Singer 96 in my garage with a similar motor made by WEG and it also runs bery smooth. Well - I just like them but they do not have much power.

Maybe it's just the lack of a stupid drip of oil here and there. Put some oil in all holes and visible moving parts and where ever you think it could use oil. Sometimes it is just that easy. BTW - has this machine a safety clutch?

No, it was just an idea. Well, I think most of the used Adler machines are not worn out. They normally last for decades. Are you looking for a cylinder machine? If not I have my hands on a Dürkopp 239 flat bed machine with compound feed (triple feed). Just for the case you are interested but I live in Germany.

Trox - nice pictures and great information! If I had enough "money to play with" or would to this for a living and have enough output I´d probably choose an EFKA as well but my budget is limited. I cannot spend a month salary for just a motor. But think this is the better investment on the long view than any of these Chinese motors.I´d say It´s a compromise to buy these Chinese motors. As I said before - I like the puzzling and always try to get the most out of my money. Thats one reason why I like the vintage / used industrial Singer + Adler machines so much. They are build like tanks and if they are well serviced they will last for decades or even a century! And in terms of the motor - my compromise is a Chinese motor + speed reducer. You know which motor system I like best? It´s the system they use on the smaller Moretti motors (Pfaff, WEG, Kobold, Siemens and some others used it as well). I don´t know how it is called in English in Germany they are called "Anlassermotor". Don´t know why there is no such motor with enough power for industrial machines. They are reliable, easy to service and do not make much noise. I´m just working on a friends old Singer 96 which has such a motor (made by WEG) and I really like it!!! But I think technically this system has it´s limits (but don´t know for sure). @ CD Why such a large pulley? Is it really necessary?

Have you ever considered buying a used machine? Or do the above mentioned machines have some special features you need?

@ TROX - You are right, almost no way to find them in Europe. I surly could have asked at Sieck or other companies but seems no one over here offers them regularly and before I mail and call around all over Europe I decided to go this way. It is still cheaper than ordering them from the US and pay shipping + taxes on top. And mine is very versatile to use. This one cost me about 50€ or slight less. Furthermore I like the puzzling very much... @ SARK9 - holy cow, what a reduction. What diameter has the large pulley? Or is is just looking big? I like the mount very much. I wanted to have a similar one but then I found the old sewing motor mount in my parts box. It works and cost me nothing.

Just finished the 1st speed reducer. I wanted it the way that I can move the step pulley on the shaft. Thats not necessary but just for the case... You never know. The one with the monster flange will follow later. Some pictures:

if it is the screw head that does not go into the hole of the feed dog grind down the head a little bit. If the hole of the feed dog does not fit over the thread in the... - what is the word for where the feed dog sits on? - drill it slightly larger of if you have a Dremel tool try a Dremel. I think that is the only solution atm.

very very well made - I´m quite impressed! Go ahead and make some of them I´m sure they will sell very well! I really like the checkered design!!!!

try this: Put both screws in the holes and turn them by hand until both safely catch the first windings of the thread and then stop. Then evenly turn them in 1 turn steps. Left screw 1 turn - right screw 1 turn - left screw 1 turn - right screw 1 turn and so on. This should probably work. Sounds stupid but try it before you start drilling grinding and cutting on parts of your machine.

Does it make the "thump" when you run the machine completely w/o thread (top + bottom)? I´d try it once with the bobbin and once without the bobbin in place just to see if it makes a difference.

This one is is quite the same as the Singer 211 so you should find binders w/o problem.

I once had a similar issue with my vintage Singer 111 and figured it was the thread stand that did not feed the thread properly. Check if your thread travels the right path and if the thread comes off the cone correctly w/o hanging and causing a higher top thread tension. You know what I mean? I guess your machine is quite new, if not check the the tension discs if they are probably worn (but I doubt they are worn). Or it probably the thread it self is bad. Sometimes cheap thread is not evenly twisted. Try a different brand and look if it works better with your machine. Just my 2 cents...

I accidentally came across an old needle feed Pfaff 142 (well, I think it is a 142 as it has no tags) but outfitted with just a single needle foot for the right needle. But it is outfitted with a double needle bar and two hooks. So I wonder if someone has "accidentally" a double needle presser foot for the 142 with 7.2mm space. Furthermore I could use a cover for the hook gear (one is missing) part number is 10052. Condition doesn't matter but price does as I know that Pfaff parts are expensive and I do not have a real use for this machine. I´m just playing with it a little bit so this is nothing that has priority and I don´t want to waste money on it.

Check this thread. Member dthayer had a similar problem with his Adler 205 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51731&p=330315

This is a quite small domestic sewing machine. You may be able sew some garment leather on it but it has it´s limits. I´m not sure what needle size it can handle but I think the limit will be a size 19 and #92 thread. The machine is not made for sewing heavier leather, it originally was made for sewing garment fabrics.

I have no Landis but what is a "Friction Disc Shifter Link"? Can you add a picture? You know, maybe one can help if he sees what you mean.

Eric, "reconditioning" the magnets did not work. I even tried to leave the neodym magnets in the sensor - no change at all.