Constabulary

Holy Cow - thats a good idea. I will try some neodym magnets. I think I have some floatings around here. Bringing the disc closer to the sensor did not work.

I opened the sensor and figured it uses magnet for the positioning signal. Thought I don't keep the motor, I will try to set the disc with the magnets closer to the sensors. If I ruin the sensor I have one spare so its worth the try. Some pics.

No, this is a very basic motor with just on / off switch and a switch for rotation direction. No control panel at all. Well, this motor has to go anyway. I just wanted to be sure that other servo motors like the Enduros do not have this issue.

Hi Steve - thanks for your reply. Yes, thats how I would expect the NPS should work but as you see in the last seconds of my video, the needle is on the down stroke and goes down a bit slow already but then when it was down already it makes another stitch...

I even have 2 synchronizers. I wanted one on each machine so I can switch the machines on my table and can use one motor (saves me space) but both synchronizers have the same issue. I tried to adjust the synchronizers back + forth but no change at all. So I think this is not a common issue, right? Or have you ever heard of this before? I ask because I don´t want to deal with this issue again in case I´m buying an Enduro motor or a clone.

BTW - the extra stitch happens on light fabric as well not only on heavy material. I first thought it is because of the compound feed of my 111G156 but I now have mounted it to a different machine with regular feed and the problem is still the same. Here is a short video - you see what I mean? http://s351.photobucket.com/user/orangeagentz/media/sewing_vids/MOV001.mp4.html EDIT: For those who find this post randomly and think it is an ENDURO motor - IT IS NOT!!!!

Thats possible! I´m currently working on 2 speed reducers but anyway - I still have the issue with the extra stitch when the motor is positioning the needle. So sewing just 1 stitch is not possible with this motor. It at least makes 1 stitch too much and sometimes even 2! I decided kick out this motor and look for another one. I´m thinking about one (or two) of the Enduros + my Speed reducer. They have more Watts and a good reputation too, plus I even can order spare parts online. So I wanted to check if the Enduros also have this "1 stitch too much" issue that my motor has.

Or you can mount it to the table frame. I once did this on a machine I have sold. Just to give you an idea:

Thanks Eric! Is that the case on ALL servos with NPS (or EPS)? I wonder if I´m the only one who has this problem. I do not sew very heavy leather but sometimes quite thick canvas straps. I wonder if the guys who make holster from heavy leather have this problem too. Men - this sucks so bad... How is it with this "one stitch too much" - is this a known problem? Because of the info you sent by mail - no, it honestly has never arrived. But don´t send them again because my pal kicked out his motor and bought a used Pfaff clutch motor.

I recently bought a 400Watts Servo with needles positioning system. Its not a common brand you find in the US I think. It is an analog servo with magnetic speed regulation. Overall a nice motor but the needles positioning system (NPS) sucks! Problem is sometimes the needle positioning system makes 1 stitch too much. Needle goes down and you think it will stay there but then it makes another stitch. This is pretty annoying when you sew short seams on straps or so. No way to adjust the sensor on the hand wheel. I tried it over and over again. Furthermore if the needle hits a hard point the positioning system does not turn off even when I take the foot off the pedal. it always works against the hard point. So the only way is to turn off the entire motor. I don´t like it at all! So I wonder if I can run the ENDURO Servo motors (or clones) which are equipped with a NPS without the NPS. I know I can get them without NPS but I want to know if I pull the plug of the hand wheel sensor just for the case I don't want to use the NPS "today" does the motor still work or does it produce a failure? Also, do other motors with NPS turn off when they hit a hard point?

If the cylinder is no longer needed remove it if possible. I hope it does not leave a big hole! From my point of view, most of the times it is worth restoring old machine as long as they are not totally busted! But depends it finally on the machine. I have restored a few already. My biggest project was a 111G156 which now is my favorite machine and I´m currently working on an Adler Class III from the early 1900´s. It´s a lot of work but also a lot of fun and you learn a lot! Good luck with your project. I´d like to see pictures of your progress if you don´t kind.

Today I received the two step pulley made after my specs. A sealed ball bearing on both sides for 15mm shaft, pulleys are 2", 4" and 6", milled out of aluminum. Each pulley cost me 40€ (about $55) incl. shipping. I´m quite impressed of the quality. I´m getting closer to my idea...

The red Koch Atlas seems to be a Class II. Look at my pictures. Class II and Class III have different take up levers. You will see the difference from the back side view. You probably have noticed that the Class III has an excenter rotating on the upper arm which moves the take up lever. So I´d say you have the earlier Class II

I removed the "general dirt" with glass cleaner, the old grease I removed with purified petroleum or lamp oil and a fiber brush. Not sure if this always works but this time it did. Some one told me barbecue or grill lighter fluid works too but I have not tried this. But I think it depends on the ingredients of the fluid. If the old grease is too sticky I use paint thinner to remove it. I figured the old paint on these vintage sewing machines is quite resistant... Of course you have to thoroughly oil the machine after this treatment. For rusted parts I use a bath of oxalic acid, this turns rust into some sort of grayish coating but I alway brush this off with a wire brush. Oxalic acid also does no damage the paint.

I know but there is just one coil type spring in the 45K so I´d assume the dealer just have bad pictures. I´d contact them and ask. If just the small end that goes into the tension post is broken, try to bend the remaining end, it MAY work and since the spring is broken why not give it a try. Or try one of the dealer who have banner at the top of this page. But they are all located in the US or Canada but not in Europe. OR - maybe the check spring of the Singer 132K will fit but I cannot confirm this... http://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1416-CHECK-SPRING-SEIKO-_-SINGER-132K=97798

A few quick pictures of the Adler II / Adler MILITARIA and my ADLER III I think you will note the difference! Meanwhile I worked on my machine as you can see - its getting better and better but I´m by far not done.

Mine is in deed and Adler III. I meanwhile have the manual, I had to pay 15€ for a PDF file. The guy did not care about a good quality scan but still better than having non! I also have an incomplete (as it seems) manual of the earlier type called Adler II or Adler MILITRIA. And I have some pictures of the earlier Adler II / MILITARIA from an owner who bought some Adler 4 parts from me. So here is a picture of the front cover of the Adler Class 3 Manual...

Hey Johan, I guess you mean the inner thread take up spring which sits in the tension assembly on the face plate, right? Try College sewing in thew UK: http://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=45K Or just ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300720923095

Cool - you can´t go wrong with just $70. Seems it has the hook on the left side due to the cut out where normally the hook is placed. Anyway this machine is worth every penny if it does what it was made for... But welding could be a problem since it is a cast iron housing. Not everybody can weld cast iron. As far as I know you only can weld it when the cast iron is HOT (very hot) but heating the iron could cause damages to the mechanics. What I would do is cut a piece of 3mm or 4mm thick sheet metal and glue it in with JB kwik Weld, clean it, sand it and repaint the machine or just the base plate. Just my 2 cents.

I didn´t take the bearing apart. I took it off for changing the timing belt. I have attached a PDF parts list for your machine. Seems the bearing has 3 parts+ screws. BTW - for some reason I wrote NEW bearing at the above post, seems I had a weak moment. The bearing is not new, I just removed it, replaced the timing belt and put it back in. When I tapped it out I put the driving shaft against the wall with a thick piece of wood between wall and shaft. You know what I mean? 111w155 Parts List.pdf

here is a picture of the scars I tapped into the new bearing - you see I was not gentle!

Last year I restored a 111G156 which is about the same machine but with reverse. My bearing was very stuck too. I almost thought I will ruin the machine when I tapped out the bearing. I was not gentle - really not! As fas as I remember the shaft was slightly thicker toward the hand wheel. Bearing went tight over the shaft when I put it back in but since then it sews like a dream. I still have a picture

To bad I cannot edit the 1st post. Okay, so here are the pictures: Picture 1 shows the data plate of a 370Watts PFAFF clutch motor which can be run on 220V and 380V Picture 2 shows the original 380V setup of this motor Picture 3 shows the setup of the same type motor changed to a 220V + capacitor for clockwise rotation direction Please compare the pictures with the diagram in post 1. Please note thats the "earth" is just on a different screw but this does not matter. One capacitor cable goes on the "free" bridge and the other goes on one of the other bridges depending on which rotation direction you need. So thats all - it´s a quite easy task! But again if you know nothing about electricity DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME - ask a qualified electrician!

I know that very well but fortunately disasters were few! Good luck with the machine.

This is a factory wiring diagram from a PFAFF sewing machine clutch motor which shows how to run a 380V 3 phase motor on just 220V. It is in German and English language I hope they translated it correctly. This diagram was inside the junction box so I took it off and scanned it. I thought this could be very helpful for those who do not have a 3 phase 380V power connection. I did this conversion a couple of times and never had a problem! How to chose the correct capacitor: rule of thumb: capacitor = 60µF to 80µF per KW Assuming the Motor has 370 Watts = 0,370 Kilowatts (KW) 0,370 x 60 = 22.2 µF 0,370 x 70 = 25.9 µF 0,370 x 80 = 29.6 µF So capacitors between 22µF and 30µF will work. I always choose a 25µF capacitor as it is just in the middle and works fine. And you of course have to change the plug! I will take some pictures later from the junction box of the motor I recently have converted. WARNING: Then diagram is for conversion from 380V to 220V - I don´t know if this works in the US with110V but I assume so but don´t know for sure!!! If you know nothing about electricity and you do not understand the diagram - DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME - better ask a qualified electrician.