Constabulary

why not directly under the table plate - no space?

Cool old machine! I like it very much - will you restore it a little bit?

Ebay sellers often don´t know what they have. They have found machines in a barn or an attic or have inherited a machine or what ever and then they check Google images and at a first glance and w/o a detailed research a Singer 31K looks like a Singer 45k (kind of). Most machines are build for a certain application (a serger cannot sew 1/2 leather and so forth). They of course have a bit of a application range but don´t rely on private Ebay sellers and their knowledge. It is important that you know what you need and not what others "think" what they have.

Alex, you should probably first try to get some proper information about sewing machines in general before throwing good money after bad. Buying a sewing machine for leather can be tricky when you are new to this. In this thread WIZCRAFT once put together a lot of useful information: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 Arthur Porter (also a LW Forum Member) also made a good video about leather sewing machines: Take your time and read the entire thread and watch the video - it´s really helpful. When you find a machine on Ebay or local and you are not sure about it just post some picture or a link here and ask for opinions. When the machine is gone meanwhile then another one will pop up but just buying something "that just sews" does not make much sense.

I don´t like these cheap economic thread stands so I wonder if Singer ever had thread stands similar to these beautiful old Pfaff + Duerkopp stands? I know they had cast iron machine stands with SINGER letters in the legs.... Dump question from a "cast iron nerd", hum?

There are programmable bar tackers for different tack patterns. I´d like to own one but for the moment my Singer 3027G2 machine is producing the small tacks on flat materials. It is of course not as precise as a bar tacker but it works.

Oh yes, there are several! F.I.: too much space between hook tip + needle scarf, broken / worn hook tip (at last the same problem), needles not insert correctly, needle / hook timing is off, wrong needle system, needle bar too high or too low (thats more or less the timing), too thick needle for the thread (loop will not form properly), needle is deflected by the needle deflector... These are all reasons why the hook can probably not catch the loop. Or sometimes even a combination of two reasons.

Buying old patchers is often enough a gamble as some of the were made in the early 1900 already (Singer + Adler). So you can probably imagine that some will be quite worn. Better test the machines when you are going to buy one (especially from a private seller) and when they produce short stitches like 3.5mm or even 3mm when adjusted to the longest stitch length then they are badly worn and I would not buy them. New or like new patchers should make 5mm stitches (5 stitches per Inch). An acceptable / good score are 4.5mm - 4mm but if they are below 4mm I would not buy them. But it of course depends on what you want to do with them if you can deal with short stitches - okay - but keep in mind these are worn and parts are not cheap! I think Adler parts are even more expensive if available at all. The only web source for Adler 30 parts in Germany is WDN in Hamburg but check out the prices and I think you are done: http://www.wdn.de/artsearchresult.php?ARTIKELZAHL=30&KATEGORIE=6140 Singer 29K70, 29k71, 29K73 are the models you can get parts for w/o problem and the prices are quite cheap compared with Adler parts. These models are later models and therefore most of the times the machines are a bit more expensive. I have been looking for a patcher for a looong time. For me it was clear that I want a short arm model and parts should be available (in case of restoration) w/o making dozens of phone calls. So I came to the point that a Singer 29K71 would be the one! After a lot of research and hanging out on Ebay and other advertisings I found one on Ebay. The guy was 20km (or so) away from me so I visited him and bought it directly. The patcher was in considerably bad shape but it was a model form the 1960´s and I already knew where I can find the parts (College Sewing). It was a gamble but for just 40€ it was worth the risk. This is the result: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56079&hl=29k71

Honestly - I think this will cost more that the machine will be worth after restoration. It would probably be cheaper to buy another (complete) one for parts. I once bought a 29K71 (one of the last models Singer made) and I had to invest about 150€ or more - I think you will end up with 250€ or more if the parts are available at all. But I would understand if you take the challenge as I also like to restore "old cast iron" but keep in mind that it could become an expensive project.

I just stumbled over this one on Ebay - is this what you are looking for? http://www.ebay.com/itm/STANDARD-PRESSER-FOOT-SET-U192-U193-fits-JUKI-DU-1181-/290961604849

29x3 (332) and 135x17 (DPx17) have exactly the same length when you are considering Schmetz needles. Both are 38.9mm from top of shank to top of needle eye. 135x17 (DPx17): http://de.strima.com/135x17-ses-65-schmetz-sewing-machine-nadel-g02-1box-100-nadeln/item/682987/ 29x3 (332): http://de.strima.com/332-%28r%29-160-schmetz-sewing-machine-nadel-g02-1box-100-nadeln/item/682784/

The needle should be centered in the needle hole. Maybe the needle is just bent. You can either use 29x3 (332) or 135x17 (DPx17) needles as they both have the same length Just found some 29x3 (332) for a good price on Ebay Germany: http://www.ebay.de/itm/10-ORIGINAL-OVP-PFAFF-Leder-Nadeln-Nahmaschinennadeln-3741-01-120-20-29x3-332-/171536511715?pt=N%C3%A4hmaschinen_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item27f05f72e3 I´d grab them for this price ( I have enough needles). The only source I know for older 29K parts in Germany would be this guy: http://www.altenaehmaschine.de I´d contact him - maybe he has what you need.

For sewing you just need the one on the topside. The 2nd tension (the one that is missing) is meant for darning - there is an optional darning device for the 29K and thats what the 2nd tension thing is for. The only person I know who has this device is the LW member WIZCRAFT. I personally have never touched one. But I use this tension unit as a thread guide when I wind the bobbin. The needle is catching the inside of the bobbin housing? I´m not sure what you mean - if you don´t mind post a picture of this "situation". When you loosen the upper screw of the needle holder you can shift the holder a bit sideways. Or you probably have to time the machine. If you need a manual you can download one here (direct download link) BUT it is for the later models with removable gearbox and so forth but I think you will notice the differences. The general information are pretty much the same...

I´d keep the Consew if you don´t have serious space problem! I meanwhile have 4 machines and I`m sure sooner or later I´ll ad one or two more though I have a small space problem.

College Sewing in the UK is a good source for 29K parts https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=29K but I´m not sure which will fit for th 29K33 as this is one of the older models so I´d download the parts list for your machine and compare the parts numbers https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/SINGER-29K30-29K33-PARTS-BOOK

WOW - thats really a nice finish! So really he careful with the "Waschverdünnung" stuff! The upper hole is for a tension assembly (including a stud, 2 tension discs, a spring and a nut), the lower hole is a for a set screw that fixes the position of the 360° mechanism when sewing in a certain direction. It prevents the mechanism from moving out of the sewing line.

I paid 15€ for one 40mm pulley not cheap but worth every cent. The Jack motors + speed reducer (also custom made) worked great with the original 75mm pulley, I just wanted to have this little bit of extra torque.

I know - that also bothered me a bit that they have no other pulleys. I now have custom made 40mm pulleys on my two Jack motors but the guy who made them is out of country for a while so I have no access to more atm. I also wanted to order speed reducer pulleys but seems I have to shift it to the next year or find someone else who can make some. Shaft is 13mm, pulley needs grove for the key and it is secured with a nut. That how it goes in the sewing machine business - you do not always get what you want / need so you have to find other solutions. This is nothing that should drive you crazy.

I see! Problem is that my original Singer decals have the transfer paper on the top side so I think the setting solution could be an option. I also googled a bit and found an interesting post ins modeler forum here is an extract: I also got the hint that I should try acrylic / water based hardwood floor finish. I´ll order the solution set after I have tried the 2 above options as I have both available. Maybe I´ll ruin the decals but I just have paid few bucks for them. But I´ll keep 2 or 3 no matter what happens as this is something you´ll probably will never find again. But if it work I´ll repaint my machines (sooner or later) an put the original decals on them.

I have not worked on a 42-5 but I assume it is the needle / hook timing that is a bit off - as most of the times. Check if the tip of the hook meets the needle scarf approx. 1.6mm above the needle eye. Also check if you have insert the needle correctly and if it is the correct needle at all. It takes 16x63 needles which are a bit shorter than 135x17 the Singer 111 type machines takes - if I remember correctly. If it is just the needle hook timing it can be done by adjusting (most likely lowering) the needle bar a little bit. BTW - seems your machine needs some oil - it ook quite dry!

I don´t know what is going on the control box but from my point into view it is an electronic device like any other else. And I think the manufacturer is aware of the "electrical situation" in different countries and that his product will be shipped worldwide. So far I have no problems - no smoke if coming of the box or the like. I guess the control box knows how to deal with alternating current.

I´m not an electrician but yellow / green is alway earth and the other 2 do not matter where you put them on. At least in Germany but if you don´t know how to do it ask an electrician.

It came with a UK plug but it´s easy to replace and the straight bore is 13mm.

I have not noticed your post earlier - sorry! What is kind of solution is it? Do you have more information?

If you can't find a new plate I´d try to heat the bend / cracked era with a blow torch (or similar) and hammer it back and hard solder the crack (not with a soldering iron). If you have no blow torch ask a plumber or black smith in your era. I have seen this on some flat bed Adler 4 needle plates, they even had replaced the broken off piece entirely with silver solder and drilled a new needle hole. So it is not impossible!