gottaknow

The main difference between the two is the horsepower rating. The 4000 is 1/2hp and the 5000 is 3/4hp. The 4000 would probably be adequate, but if you can, getting the 5000 would allow you to mount it to a different machine with larger demands in the future. With a servo motor, if the 4000 is overworked, it's protection circuit will shut the motor off and you'll have to reset it. You'd likely have no issues with the 5000, especially with the smaller pulley. Regards, Eric

I have about 50 machines with various models of servo motors in the factory. One thing they all have in common, is they really dislike and thread wrapped around the shaft, behind whatever pulley you have. Some have pulleys designed to discourage stray thread from getting caught and wrapped. In the factory, a rouge spool of thread, bobbin, or even thread ripped out and not disposed of properly can get behind the pulley. The tollerances on the sensors are very tight. It actually takes very little to pull the shaft out of alignment of the sensors. This creates a varieties of issues, again depending on your particular motor. When this happens in the factory, I simply remove the pulley, clean the thread out and it's good to go. I also have some servo models that have chronic design issues. Best of luck. We still use plenty of clutch motors, but the servos are nice. Regards, Eric

Well I'm just curious enough to see if they're available. I have also made them using 1/8" rubber epoxied onto an old set of dawgs milled down flat and then grooved with a dremel to help the epoxy grip. The rubber wears and new pieces can be glued on. A common problem with old machines is the feed dawgs get dull. Dull dawgs mark fabric and leather because they slip (like spinning your tires). Many new mechanics make the mistake of buffing feed dawgs that mark, making the problem worse. Brand new dawgs will often decrease marking because they don't slip. I also on occasion use teflon presser feet to prevent drag on the top ply with allows less pressure on the foot which decreases marking. On a flatbed machine, anything you can do to decrease drag will make for better feeding=less foot pressure=less marking. In the factory when sewing very heavy rubberized webbing on tactical gear, I use very thin sheets of teflon that are self adhesive. I cover the table and machine where every there's drag. And yes, I do ramble. Oh, and thanks for the kind welcome. There's a lot of great information here. Regards, Eric

I have been an industrial sewing machine mechanic for the last 32 years. I have also been a locksmith and safe technician for 17 years. While working fulltime at one, I had a business doing the other. I'm currently the head mechanic for a contract sewing factory. I also did a 6 year stint as a factory manager with 90 employees. I still locksmith on the side and work on safes, most of them gun safes. Regards, Eric

My 2 needle machine is a Singer 112w, made in the 50's. I also have it's single needle brother, the Singer 111w. Those designs were the basis for most of the modern machines. Verticle hooks, compound feed, (needle bar and feed dawgs move in unison). The older machines are readily available. This class of machine does a nice job on lightweight leather, as well as many other materials. You can certainly use any 2 needle machine and just remove either needle for small jobs. The problem you run into is that the feed dawgs and presser feet are made to control material for 2 needles. Don't let that scare you, I do it all the time and we do it in the factory. I've been an industrial mechanic for 32 years, I've been sewing that long as well. The newer servo motors are great for learning because of the speed control. However, there's still nothing wrong with just learning how to sew and control the machine. You can easily slow down an AC clutch motor by getting it with a 1750 rpm motor and putting the smallest pulley on it you can get. I have rubber feed dawgs for my 111w when marking the leather is a problem, most of the time it's not. I just purchased a new Juki 2 needle for our factory (we make tactical gear and American Internment flags for the VA). The machine was $5k complete with needle positioner, underbed trimmer and many programmable features suitable for factory use. On the other hand, you can buy an old Singer 112 (50's) or a newer 212 (60's) for a couple hundred. Our factory uses 220v 3 phase so when I sell a surplus machine, (I'm not advertising) I convert it for home use. Those motors are between 100-150. There are manuals available online now for setting these old machines, which really are no different than the new ones. Parts are readily available. If you're somewhat mechanical and patient, I've always believed most people can learn the basic settings to keep the older machines purring along. Singer, Consew, Juki, Brother, Mitsubishi all have industrials that will sew lightweight leather because they are all based on the original Singer designs. Many of the parts are also interchangeable. We use size 19-22 needles on the flags. There are many other sources of used industrials besides Ebay. There have been so many factories closed in the last 30 years and the machines are just sitting around. Best of luck. Regards, Eric

Two things that will help a great deal. See if you can locate some Teflon needles for your machine or a can of spray silicone textile spray for your thread. When we made Levi's, we'd soak the thread overnight in silicone so it would set the stitch properly. Also helps to cool the needle which will improve. Both are available from companies that cater to industrial machines. Good to have on hand even if too late for this project. As others said, tighten your top tension a bit. Regards, Eric

Not sure if you've got your timing belt on yet, but I know I have a manual at the factory. I could scan it for you if you want. I've replaced hundreds of timing belts and the 111's are pretty simple. You do have to pull the handwheel and bearing to slip it over the top shaft. There are timing marks on the top and bottom shafts so you get it timed right. Let me know! Regards, Eric

Hi Folks, My name is Eric, and I found your site from a friend on another web site. I have been involved with textile manufacturing since 1980. I've managed factories as well as been the head mechanic for as many as 300 operators. I've sewn a fair amount of leather garments, my favorite was a down vest I made for my dad back in the mid 80's. I didn't have a camera back then, but I'll get a pic next time I visit. I'm currently employed by a factory as their head mechanic and do some engineering as well. I truly have a passion for the sewn industries. I've looked around the site here and am very impressed with the quality of the work folks are doing. Most of my leather projects now are tool cases, wallets, check book covers, and lock pick cases for other locksmiths. Yeah, I'm also a locksmith and safe technician. I look forward to spending time here, getting ideas for projects and maybe helping with a machine issue now and again. I currently have 400 machines at the factory which I can use anytime, but my personal machines are a Singer 111W151 which does a nice job on leather, a two needle version of the same machine, a Singer 112W151 and a Union Special 39500 serger. I currently have an apprentice mechanic and have trained numerous ones over the years. I've taught sewing and garment construction and set piece rates for sewing operators. I love the durability of leather for tools, many of my cases are more than 30 years old. Regards, Eric