DavidL

Very nice. It ha great shape, was this your pattern?

Is the leather thicker than the previous leathers you used? Im interested in finding out too. My guess would be to find a punch with the bevel on the inside perimeter.

25b I did end up buying the manual, I figured I may be able to get a refund if there was no response. I don't mind gambling within reason. Id like to hear from those that own manual 1 or 2. Is it enough "trade secret" or fundamental information?

Update: By the next day of purchase I have been sent the manual. I purchases number 4 which is fairly difficult to read and not as easy to follow along, not the content but the way it was written. You may not have difficulty following along, however it is different than seeing a video or even a step by step book. It is still a good manual seeing as francis does reply daily if you need clarification or for him to check over your work.

Do you know of band knife splitters below 3k? I've seen one used fortuna I believe that could do very small pieces (width wise) that a member had gotten for under 1k. I've never seen another since, although I never looked around for one as I don't need it.They seem to be harder to find something in your budget unless you have a big operation. Id love for that not to be true so I could pick one up in the future.

Yes, I should have gone through with it the first time around. Hopefully their will be a reply from the buyer. 25b if you can pm me that would work. I tried to PM you but a message showed up denying the message.

Does anyone else own printed out leather connection manuals or pdf. I would like to purchase them for a price. Send me a PM. 25b when did you get a reply. Last time I tried there was no reply.

Im not getting what you mean by using a draw gauge and clamp. Like this? 5:10 I have found with a japanese leather chisel knife I can angle it 90 degrees and the blade will stay straight since it is digging in the cutting board guiding the cut. A round knife may work better though since so much length can be in contact of the leather. I may have to pick one up. The thing I have to tackle now is cutting on a pen mark.

I'll look into card stock. It seems more resistant than poster board. http://www.prescottandmackay.co.uk/products/general-tools-and-supplies/fabric-and-pattern-paper/pattern-paper-thick has anyone tried something like this?

I've heard of poster board being used for pattern material. What other material can be used thats stiffer than poster board? It would be best if it can be found locally. Best way to transfer a design to pattern material?

wow.. why didnt i think of that? Thanks again pete.

Looks fantastic. How do you space out the stitching. When I do not count the stitching sometimes I get extra long stitches and what not. Do you measure out the length of a piece of leather specifically for the stitching?

I haven't tried any other brands other than olfa. Fiskar is one I see other than olfa. I can say though the olfa 45mm with the lock is great. The handle is sort of large and I will like to try the olfa 60mm in a less bulky handle, maybe someone may have a custom wooden handle for an olfa for sale. To me the handle blocks the view of what you are cutting.

thanks for the help. I figured out what works for me from your advice I now use my japanese chisel for long straight cuts against a ruler. I use the flat edge against the ruler not the bevel. The longer knife edge allows a straighter cut, but a difficult curve cut (I have a chisel bevel tina type knife on the way). Another benefit I see is the cut is closer to the edge vs my exacto knife, however a thinner 9mm retractable knife would cut almost as close to the edge (The difference is really not a factor). To align the ruler to the scribed line I took your advice north mount and brought the ruler to the knife. I do it 3 times down the scribe this time by putting it at an angle and bringing the knife to 90 degrees,slightly pushing the ruler to the exact position. If the line is scribed in veg I can just align the chisel and push cut one section at a time. If anyone has any other way I would like to hear it.

Its mostly an issue with a wavy cut and 50/50 chance of me misaligning a 90 degree ruler on a line by 1-2 degrees. Ultimately, when it is done two times on a square pattern it becomes very apparent. Sometimes i drag the knife too quick or if it is too dull it pulls the leather with it. I may have to go with a small olfa knife or a knife like you suggested. I used the olfa but have lost the knife. It removed the wavy cuts because the blade was so thin. The knife I have has a convex edge, which is a disaster to cut with along a ruler. Just today I fixed the convex edge to be more flat and it did help slightly. The issue I have most is keeping aligning the 90 degree ruler on the line because the line sometimes isn't 100 percent straight because the bevel is too thin to ride along the ruler edge.

I may not get an answer other than you need to practice more for this question. It wouldn't hurt to ask though. Do you have any tips to cut one a straight scribed line/pen mark? How do you align your ruler to the scribe line? half the time I put my ruler to the line thinking its completely on the line... when I check the cut it is a mm off, messing up the pattern.

I fixed the problem just recently. I set a flat japanese skiving knife on the edge so the flat edge sits on the edge to even it out.

what grit paper do you use on edges? Does your sandpaper grit get higher after each coat?

i was thinking about the tool below. when I wrote I haven't found the right tool I was talking about I haven't found the right tool to buy. I don't own it but it looks like it could work. I would probably need more opinions before I make a decision or just take the chance that it will work well. A round awl I found works well , but very slowly. I am playing around with the idea of applying aussie conditioner on the grain and so that I can rub off the dye if it hits anything other part other than the edge. http://elfitakorea.blogspot.ae/2013/09/edge-dyeing-roller.html I don't believe I specifically said the words "they didn't work" or even insinuated they did not work.If you misunderstood the post I apologize. Anyways, I hope u find the right tool after 4 years. Im sure there are many other ideas on what you can do when you read the opinions in this thread.

Has anyone manage to not get dye on the face side or flesh side when dyeing the edges? I haven't found the right tool (round awl, foam, edge roller) or the right technique to dye correctly. Any tips?

thanks. I think I may go with a wide nose clamp to really get the pieces tight. Roller looks like it would work well too.

What is a J roller?

il keep these tips in mind. I guess I should switch to contact cement. WHite glue or japanese glue (a tiny bit stronger than white glue) spills too much into the edge and doesnt hold too strong. I will also let it dry a bit longer. The best way I find is to have both pieces oversize but sometimes its not practical for this way.

How do you get glued pieces air tight like a solid piece of leather? Do you hammer it closed, use wide pliers to compress it closed? Second question: How do you prevent glue from spilling onto the edge? More importantly how do you remove the glue from the edge fully to allow edge paint to be applied.

Does anyone know a way to prevent concave edges? Meaning that if I stand the wallet on the edge I can see that the it isn't completely straight. My thinking is that once card are pushed in the edge starts to change. Has anyone ever encountered this?