Jump to content

immiketoo

Moderator
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    2,354

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by immiketoo

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Another bag for our historical society clients.  The only rule is no metal and no colors that didn't exist back then.  There were actually a wide variety of pigments available, but you can't go wrong with plain.  There is a lot of leeway and artistic license in a product "that could have been used," in ancient times.  So we looked at shapes depicted on pottery to come up with this design.

    36338204_10214950028957273_8163374937130663936_o.jpg

    36276428_10214950031957348_2636523746902409216_o.jpg

    36363309_10214950030877321_4383885557252489216_o.jpg

    36404835_10214950029557288_7124111401185968128_o.jpg

  9. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, terrymac said:

    TanKnote is no way, no how ever intended to be a resist. In fact, it can be added to antique paste if it starts drying, or to lighten up the antique color .  It also works great when you have splotchy areas from the antique, and it will remove most of the "splotch".  The only product that really works is Clearlac or Wyosheen sold by Barry King ( both the same product).  Must say I have not used Bee's new product so can't comment on it although their saddle oil is the best on the market.  You get into Tandy's antiques, and you can take everything I have said and throw it out the window.  Resolene does not work very well either.

    Terry

    Terry, The surest way to resist are the products you listed.  I just don't like the look of them.  Ive been using Bee Natural for about 5 years now and I've NEVER had it bleed through.  I want to try some of their other products as well.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    This is a topic that comes up often.  Most makers don't charge nearly enough for the their work, and this is a source of much contention from folks at the top of the game.  

    They feel that craft level prices devalue pro level work.  There's some truth in that as we are a digital world and it's easy to compare one source to another.

     

    However, you have to be honest with yourself because if the skill isnt there charging top dollar is inappropriate and self defeating. 

     

    When I started, I could see good work even though I couldn't do it, and I charged for materials and a little bit for my time. 

     

    As my skill, and ddemand for my products has increased, so have my prices.  Just make sure you enever take a loss and you'll be fine.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    15 minutes ago, Stetson912 said:

    I agree with Mike. Test it on scrap. Be sure it won't bleed through or stain or something weird. 

    As for lining the way you want to, I would cut the liner wider than the collar. Enough wider that when you turn the edges there is ample room for your stitching to grab.(typically 1/4" to 3/8") should be ok. Also, be sure to skive the edges before you turn them if they are a little thick. Not skiving could make a little bump or ridge down the length of your liner. If you want to get real fancy, you could even pad the collar. Just my thoughts.

    Finally, this is most important, take pictures and show us what you made hehe. Hope it works well for you. 

    Good advice.  If you can't skive, and you want to avoid the caved in appearance, you can always add a filler between the ends of your rolled edges so that your piece has a consistent thickness.  We use craft foam in the middle of ours to give a little padding.  The dog doesn't care, but the owner does.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    1 minute ago, Railrider1920 said:

    Wow Mike, that is so cool looking. Thank you very much!! I'm so stoked to start now. I'm going to try to find a piece of granite today and hopefully start some carving.

      I've been at work the last few days or I would have responded sooner.

      If you ever find yourself back in the states in New Orleans, New York or the Fla Panhandle, please let me know. I owe you at least a few beverages for the video.

      Thanks again!

    Rob

    Rob, you don't owe me anything, but I'm always down for a beer with a leatherworker.  I get that life gets in the way, so no worries.  If you need any help, just let me know :)

     

  25. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

    As a relative newbie to this thing called 'leathercraft' and even newer to carving, am I missing something in believing a craftaid is merely a means to an end, just a way of transposing a design on to leather so the crafter knows where to cut?

    If I was a half decent artist, I could draw a picture with a stylus on the leather, but I barely know which end of a stylus or pencil is which. Is it perceived as 'cheating' or lower-in-quality in some way, if a crafter uses a craftaid?

    You're absolutely correct.  Its to transfer a design to leather.  The same can be done with a piece of paper and a pencil.  Or a stylus or whatever.  They are handy if you want to reproduce the same image multiple times, or you have a shaky hand.  The quality is up to the carver regardless how the image is transferred to the leather.

×
×
  • Create New...