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Posts posted by immiketoo
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Yes, sorry. Now, to be clear, we're not talking about the depth as if you'd used wool or cloth to apply the dye, but it makes a big difference in the fragility of the sprayed dyes.
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Let it absorb then spray. Once you put color on, oil immediately to set the color.
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As I mentioned, the blades needed a lot of work to make them smooth, and I am not willing to spend the time to fix a blade just to send it back to the company. I know what the result would have been, so I didn't include a test run of an unfinished blade. You can find the knives here: https://www.rickert-werkzeug.de/en/General-tools/Leather-Knives-Cutting/?p=1
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Oil your leather before and after your spraying. You'll get better penetration, and you can spray heavier coats and not have to worry as much about excess dyestuffs.
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No problem at all. Thats why they give us a delete button. Anyway, find some friends, buy some caps and you're good to go!
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You can buy them here. 144 caps for 29 bucks. https://www.sks-bottle.com/340c/fin111i.html
Also, you double posted, so I cleaned up one of them.
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Well THAT'S a huge relief. Still, if you can make stuff even after a couple of tries, its better than not making stuff!
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Some people would say its not the tools, but the skills. I say its a little bit of both, but knowledge goes a lot farther than a new tool. Unless its a black crack beveler
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Thank you!
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A quick review of some very nice knives.
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9 hours ago, billybopp said:I guess that's what happens when ya find yer mate on here! LOL
Absolute truth!
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On August 11, 2018 at 9:04 PM, Sheilajeanne said:Try the 'search' function. It turned up several posts, and I am posting the links that I know will be the most helpful:
Nigel Armitage:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8urn9l3pybW5LztUa6zbOA
Ian Atkinson - some videos are free, some you have to pay for:
http://ianatkinson.net/leather/videos.htm
And our own Mike (Immiketoo) who is a moderator on this board:
Thanks, Shelia! All of these are great for learning a variety of topics. Where mine is different is that I offer live classes PLUS a recording. Between the links above you can learn nearly anything leather related and I am always adding new content.
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2 hours ago, chrisash said:That seems to indicate you don't have a wife who keeps saying "why do you need another one of those" or you have her well trained after all the wives out there let the husbands break the crockery when they dance
Mine just steals my tools and act innocent when I can't find them
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Well, shit. I haven't saved money anywhere. At all. But I do have an awesome set of tools!
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Everyone has their own order, and often the piece will dictate that order, but JLS has stated it the same as I and many others do it, with a few exceptions. If you're hand stitching, you might want to add stitch holes before dye, especially if you are using contrasting thread. Let the piece dry completely, and then stitch. That way, you wont have to touch up the holes after stitching.
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Mike, it pains me to read this, but it seems your spirits are high and thats good. Please stay active on the forum at least, and know that you have had a profound impact on my leatherwork career. BTW, there's nothing wrong with those items there. You still got it!
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For thin leather like that, I use a cocobolo burnishing stick with a very thin slot and a light touch. Just water is all you need.
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I can't speak to 10 years ago, but the advent of Facebook groups has had an impact on all of the forums I belonged to. Leatherworker.net has survived and fared far better than any of the other forums I belong to, especially the automotive ones. Those places are ghost towns anymore. We are in control of how things happen here and I will keep working to keep the forum alive and well!
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2 hours ago, Stetson912 said:Wow, so 8+ hours of content! Gotta have it haha!
Good point on tooling, I tend to draw too small for my tools
Yeah it's an epic series. You bring up a good point. Britt constantly modifies his tools to be able to tool small areas. Knowing your tools and your abilities is key. A man has to know his limitations!
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12 minutes ago, Stetson912 said:Or untill you have a project that the aids don't fit :/
I'm pinching pennies for those classes by Mr Nantz. How long are the videos Mike? The usual hour or so?
I hear you man, but they are worth it. The work sheets alone will bump you years ahead. Each class is about an hour to an hour and a half.
9 minutes ago, TonySFLDLTHR said:This is a really great point. Crafting helpers will only get you so far. Getting the style down is the key to making your own designs. It is possible to take the elements within the helpers and make your own design and then once you feel more skilled you can take it from there. One way to look at it is: Learn Leather will help teach you and build your confidence to get you to making your own designs, while the helpers will get you comfortable with the style and shapes.
Thats a good way of looking at it. Another benefit of aids is tooling. You can do the same piece again and again until you've perfected the tooling. Once you understand how to tool it, that info can help you avoid pitfalls in design, like too much or too little background space, tricky intersections and learning what elements are on top.
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8 hours ago, Stetson912 said:Oh, and learn leather has an 8 video series taught by Britt Nantz if that's more your cup of tea. I haven't seen/pirchased them so I can't say how "good"they are off hand. Bit I have used learn leather and have been pleased with the format and information provided by experts in leather craft and I know Britt Nantz is a very well respected leather crafter. Keep in mind too, it's a more expensive route to go, but I'm sure the information is great.
Thanks for the mention. The classes by Britt are by far the easiest and most comprehensive way to learn floral design that I have seen. Britt breaks it down to the individual line level and then builds it back up from there. You almost can't not do it after his classes. However, there are a lot of other good publications out there as well, including Bob Park's book which is good and the Cary Schwarz videos are good as well.
Copying and craft aids are great until you get tired of them or find yourself with a piece where they don't fit, so learning to draw it is highly recommended.
If you're interested, www.learnleather.com. -
Sound advice above. One thing I would add is that since you said you're new, she may try to leverage that against you as a means to reduce your price. Don't fall for that. She clearly recognized the quality in your work and spoke up about it. A LOT of people underprice their work because they're new, because they're shy or self conscious or a myriad other reasons. Things like electricity, heat and water all should be factored into your pricing, even the time and resources spent to pick up supplies and organize them in your shop. Pros know this, hobbyists in their garages often never even think of it.
I agree with plinker cases. You've cracked the code and more people will be knocking on the door. What does a high end set of mass produced tack cost? Yours is hand made, with attention to every detail and the eye of an enthusiast. That equals $$$ or at the very least a counter argument to the, "well you're new" argument.Good luck.
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17 minutes ago, JLSleather said:That would make anything LESSER quality, at or above that price, OVERPRICED.
Not sure I agree with you there, but kudos on your customer compliment! Always good to get positive feedback from a happy client.
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Moved to leatherwork conversation since there are no pictures to show off, and we don't have a bragging section
You provide quality for an affordable price, but I believe your holsters are priced appropriately. Simple, effective, and well made without any hype at all.
Great Service
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Steve and crew do an outstanding job in a world where other vendors just don't seem to care. Its refreshing to say the least.