stef73433

1) first issue is, the spot gets smooshed and odd shaped when I use the little rivet tool to bang them together.what's the trick to get both sides to join and not ruin spot? 2) I screwed up on my breast collar.I put it all together and thought spots would fit through entire later.not the case. Is there such thing as Chicago screw on spots or real small conchos that won't break the bank?

I am so confused on getting the oiling into the finishing process.dye, oil, them seal? How do I avoid oil changing color/darkening? And if I apply a good sealer, how does one oil in the future to maintain good moisture (making horse tack so it gets icky and gritty)

NVLeatherWorx Sent 05 January 2013 - 05:05 PM Saw your post about the differences and uses. I will try and help if I can. Stains (regardless of water vs. oil, etc.) are for giving the overall project a consistent coverage that often times gives a rustic or vintage appearance (depending of method of application). This includes the antiques. Dyes are used to give a deep penetrating coverage of the color applied (again, regardless of water vs. oil, etc.). However, there are your basic hard colors (black, browns, mahogany) that are inteded to be used for full coverage while your vibrant colors are intended to provide artistic detail. When it comes to the base of the product (i.e. water, oil, spirit) there are some major considerations to take into account. Water based products tend to have issues with lesser penetration, they frequently require multiple coats to get proper color and coverage, they have a very large rub-off factor, and when sealing them with acrylic or other sealants you will find that they smudge very bad, regardless of how long they have dried. Oil based stains and dyes have a better penetration depth, can almost always achieve color and coverage desired with one application, and do not rub-off. They also have the added factor of providing some basic conditioning due to the oil content and their working time is much longer as oil tends to evaporate much slower than water. In my shop I only use spirit based dyes as they are the best for penetration, color, consistency and durability. For stains I only use antique paste (spirit/oil based) for much the same reasons. I have been using these same products for over 30 years and have found no reason to change out. There are some who say that the chemicals in these products are dangerous but, unless you are intentionally sniffing it to get a high, there is no more danger than found when using the so-called eco-friendly (water based) products that lack greatly. Hope this helps to clarify some of your questions. Let me know if there are any other questions and I will try to help. Richard I posted his message above, great info

What is soiling leather? Do you mean just a scrap piece that can be ruined?

Thank you so much, these links are great!! I am not making the tree,I will purchase one.I don't have the tools to build one. I am probably crazy for trying to build the saddle, much less the tree.I was thinking of ordering Dusty johnsons patterns, so this tells me I am on the right track.thanks again!

I am going to attempt my first saddle.I an wondering if anyone can make any goods recommendations for patterns? I want to build a barrel saddle, so I well probably have to modify just about any pattern?

I have been using a poly cutting board on my bench. I also use it when I stamp or chisel so I don't wreck my punches.but now my cutting board is rough and marking up my leather. This should be basics, lol, but not sure what to do? Is there a better type board to cut on that won't mark up my leather?

I placed 2 pronged spots in a headstall, that I now need to remove.is there such thing as leather putty or filler, to cover the prong holes and dye it? They are small holes, like size of a pen tip

I have a gal who wants cream colored fringe on her breast collar.what is best type of leather for this that won't curl up? She wants cream or off white

I will try some different things this weekend. Thanks!!

Thank you all!

I can't afford to buy all out there, so want best bang for the buck.recommendations?? Thanks!

I'm thinking of trying to build my first saddle.I know how I want it to be when finished, but not sure how to get it there.I want something fairly deep seated and secure, and somewhat padded.I have been searching on here, but don't find anything on padding seats.

I have opted to try a treed saddle first.I do have to disagree that treeless are all bad.under the right rider, they are a benefit.I run barrel horses and I do feel they have their place.I do appreciate your input though, even if we slightly disagree

I am really lost on difference between dyes and stains, water vs oil,etc. Can someone break down what you would use dye for vs stain, water vs oil, etc?

I want to build a sports saddle.they have a regular pommel and cantle, but no wood bars.any idea where I can get those tree components? Out who can build them for me reasonable priced?

Mostly springfield leather as I like the Herman oak they carry.thanks!

Best lace to buck stitch with?

They are made by a huge company, I'm thinking most, if not all of it is probably machine made some how. Shows how different a novice sees things! Thanks all

I respect your opinion. I am very new to leather work.please critique the belt and tell me what makes it bad. I would like to try something like this, but I would like to do it in such a way that is admirable to people who know about it, not make people cringe!

Is that how to achieve this look? http://www.doublejsaddlery.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/3670/B086

Oiling it before dying doesn't affect end color??

I bought some fiebings saddle tan colored dye, but very displeased with it.very orangey.what could I add to it to tone down the orange?

Where in the finishing process do toy apply oil to the leather? Before stains, after? Neatsfoot or another oil type?

Can I re dye a breastcollar that is already dyed and older?