pg043

I think usually the reason people use the 12 or 20 ton presses is just to accommodate larger dies, as the smaller shop presses usually have a fairly small work area. Key fobs obviously won't require too much workspace :D

As has been said, this is done by hot-glazing edge paints with a tool that in France is called a Filleteuse(sp?). See this thread for more info: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=38750. Unfortunately the tool is quite expensive. There is a lot of musing about how to do it more affordably but I haven't seen many people who have actually attempted it.

beautiful

Do you have any pictures of bags you've made using the single piece method? I am tempted to do that next time, as it does sound like it would save time and make the seam stitching easier.

Veedbub's method is correct, but I will say that the thickness of the leather might actually come into play. On this tote, I used two layers of 4/5oz and I was unable to make both inside folds because there was just too much material. As you can see, I had to compromise by stitching the sides protruding outward.

This is a great thread! I have been thinking about making one of these for a while now. Honestly the $6 soft-faced mallet I got at Harbor Freight 2 years ago has been just fine for me so i haven't been too motivated but this thread has me thinking about it again. I always figured that if I made one I would cut circles out of cutting board material and stack them on a threaded rod or bolt, then possibly melt them together. The milk jug idea sounds great, especially combined with molding it in a martini shaker to achieve the tapered design. Good stuff!

So I just got my hands on a side of Horween Chromexcel. While it is very nice to work with, the first challenge I have run into is that it doesn't seem to glue very well. I have always used Weldwood and never had any issues, but it just didn't want to stick to this CXL. The surface is kind of slick, but I have glued other chrome tanned leathers before. I tried roughing up the grain side. It didn't help much, but I probably didn't rough it up enough, I just went over it lightly with sandpaper. Anyone had this problem? What kind of glue are you using on CXL?

What I find even more amazing from post# 134 is this line: * it is definitely not a toy- it is truly an old-school industrial machine. No manual. It requires finesse. We offer instructions and a virtual tutorial to everyone who buys it from us otherwise they'd be lost. This machine has an on/off switch and a temperature dial. Am I missing something? Also, does anyone know the proper temperature that this machine runs at?

Does anyone know how hot these tools are supposed to run at? I am looking at trying to make a cheaper version with a variable heat soldering iron. The units I have looked at seem to operate between 200 and 480 degrees Celsius. Any idea how that compares to the temperature of the Fileteuse?

Really? If those stitches are 6SPI then that thread looks smaller than 1mm to me. Maybe my eyes deceive me! Whatever chisel and thread combo you are using it looks great for that size project.

nice work and neat design. What is the thread and SPI that you used there?

Here's a wallet I made last week for my girlfriend. She loves purple . The leather is 3/4oz chrome tanned from Tandy. Thread is .020" lilac waxed polycord from Maine Thread. Stitching is 8SPI and made with the GoodsJapan European pricking iron. It was a lot of guesswork as I had no pattern...and a lot of stitching! But I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

That's really cool! I have made my own punches out of sockets before, but this looks way easier and cleaner. How long do those hold an edge? What kind of conduit works best? To the OP, you can try the hole saw but I have some concerns about how clean the edge might be. If it's 2" diameter though it will be big enough for you to clean it up with some sandpaper and burnishing.

I agree with the previous posters that it's best to plan for the particular SPI you will be using when you make your pattern. That being said, if I'm just putting something together quickly I usually don't . To improvise on the fly, Twin Oaks's method is correct. Another thing that will help is that I never go all the one from one corner to another if I'm not sure my stitching will fit perfectly. So start on one side, work almost to the middle, then move over to the other side and work towards the middle. That way, you know your corners are going to be perfect and you can figure out where to split the difference in the middle where it doesn't matter as much.

I have no idea if that would work, but that doesn't sound very cost effective