Tim Schroeder

@Dwight Do you have any problems with kinking or getting bent/folded and not be able to flatten it back out?

That’s looking good.

Also when using Pro Resist and the Wyosheen I would use a damp/wet cloth around a block of wood to wipe off the excess followed by a dry cloth around a block of wood. This wallet was done with Pro Resist with no dye. The block helps leave the antique in any depression It just has one coat of antique and the antique is not near as dark

Sheridan Brown I wipe it on with trimmed sheepskin thin and fast in circles against the flow of the tooling and wipe off immediately with a cotton cloth wrapped around a block of wood. I did this piece in 5 different sections. I like the color the antique finish turns it but after you buff it out it still comes out pretty light.

The antique finish is always going to tint it a little bit. This piece has NO resist at all. I usually use Wyosheen for resist and topcoat. This piece has NO resist at all and I antiqued it three times to get the tooling dark enough.

Thanks @YinTx Never sold any but have given a few away. If anybody wanted something I already have I would be happy to share with them. If somebody needed a certain size pattern to fit something I would help them no problem. I would just be glad someone thought my pattern was good enough to use. I always have an issue somewhere in the pattern I don't like. I am getting ready to make my wife a new purse and I have redone the drawing a couple of times. Working on a wallet pattern as well for myself. They are finished but I need to go have them mirror imaged. You can see in some of those drawings I draw one side and then get a mirror image and put them together. On a tote bag or purse, anything with two opposite sides I will mirror image the whole pattern and one side is a mirror image of the other side. My 20 yr old printer can shrink and enlarge but no mirror image. I did notice just now I failed to mirror image the basket weave. The cats love these things.

Didn't think about that. Good idea @chuck123wapati I'm pretty sure my metal working buddy has a sheer and the Guy I'm working for right now I know has a break and a sheer for sure at the work shop. I did find some 1 1/4" metal strapping at HD but just need to see how thick it is. This Nexbelt is only .150 thick. Two pieces of 3/4 oz and .028 Kydex comes out about the same. Curious how stiff it might be if I glue all three pieces together.

Thanks for all the input. The Nexbelt I am using has the .028 Kydex (SHC) with a ratchet buckle. I think the Kydex stops at the ratchet track. I can buy that on EBAY. I was thinking of metal flashing. I would be looking for something 1 1/8" wide. Really thin. Not sure how to cut a nice straight piece. I was looking at using two pieces of 3/4 oz. Horween strap leather. The SHC runs the entire length of the belt with the ratchet track set in the SHC. Doesn't really look all that great on the front of the belt. This belt has a 12" ratchet track. I will probably cut it down to 6" or so.

I need to build a concealed carry belt with a stiffener sandwiched in the middle. I have a Nexbelt that I am going to use the ratchet buckle from but need a stiffener. I was planning on using two pieces of 4/5 or 5/6 oz leather which ever keeps it from getting to thick. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

We’ve been iced in since Saturday so decided to practice a little. Made this cover for my daily planner. 3/4 oz Hermann Oak with a pig skin liner. It’s just dyed black and Sheridan Brown antique finish over natural leather, no resist. I haven’t put a topcoat yet. Want something I’ll be able to clean and oil later. I usually Wyosheen everything and I don’t like the way water base finishes look. Oil just seems to sit on top of the Wyosheen. Any recommendations.

Thanks @Northmount

I use a gravity fed HVLP no matter what size the piece is. 12" pattern means just two passes on pieces that big. I spray very light coats in all four directions. Full control of amount of dye, air and pattern. You can dial it down to the size of a quarter if you need to. The blue backgammon board in my profile albums is the best example I have to show. I don't know how to get the picture from there to here. https://leatherworker.net/forum/gallery/image/11173-braves-board-003jpg/?context=new

Thanks again everybody. MERRY CHRISTMAS to everybody. WUTA 3.85. I bought these from PacoLeathercraft on Etsy.

Thanks for the kind words everybody. I was checking the inside veg tan and it is only .8 mm. I have found some Kangaroo to make the insides out of again. The Kangaroo is really soft and has a matt finish. I think I will make myself a new wallet after Christmas.

Thanks, I spray the whole piece brown then cut in the black. I have a small brush I have trimmed down to just two bristles at the end. Trimmed sheepskin for the black. The brown is Fiebing's light brown and chocolate brown 50/50 and then thinned 50/50 with thinner. Sprayed thru a HVLP spray gun. I don't oil after dying, just after tooling. After dye two light coats of Wyosheen then Sheridan Brown antique finish to high light all the cuts followed by two more light coats of Wyosheen. The inside pocket with his name was pretty tough. I had to do it three times to get it right with out cutting thru. That stuff is very thin. It's about half as thin as that 2/3 W&C. Makes nice wallet interiors and you can dye any color you want.