Tim Schroeder

Sherwin Williams lacquer. They have a flat lacquer. I'm not sure if you can still buy wyosheen or something like it. It was shiny though and a satin finish looks a lot better.

Just curious if anybody had any thoughts on using just straight lacquer on dyed veg tan.

First try at upholstery. Leather is very unforgiven. It is a really cool chair.

Matches her dancing boots.

I had to shim the bottom on this 441 clone stitch length lever plate. I took the plate out from underneath the top and started adding shims under the bottom until it hit perfect. Interested to see the adjustment in the base of the machine if anybody shares' that with us. Here's 13 stitches max stitch length forward then backwards and then forward again.

I have the same CFM under my name and no edit button. Can you tell me what the CFM stands for?

Hi @Johanna, I haven't had an edit button for a long time. I'm on a computer with Windows 10. couple

You can make these machines sew backwards in the same holes. Here's 13 stitches forwards at max stitch length then backwards then forwards again. This is 2 layers of 2/3 oz. chrome tan with #138 thread using HE&P #25 needle plate and feed dog. The back looks pretty much the same. This the only machine I have been able to make stitch backwards in the same holes and the back looks like the front. Not sure how the little slide plate that comes in the top of the stitch length adjuster works but I removed it and started shimming the bottom until I got it right. Just curious if you are going thru the eyelet then around the tension disc and then back thru the eyelet again like Cobra says to thread machine. That creates unwanted tension you can never get rid of. Try threading the machine without going back thru the eyelet on both the top and bottom tension disc.

HE&P heprecision.com

@dikman It was more about torque. Well really about money. This has always been a hobby. Speed reducers were $175 and I have around $50 in the flat bed table speed reducer I did first. Motor is turning twice as fast as with speed reducers you can buy at the same sewing speed giving me more torque than with those speed reducers. Before I built the speed reducer I would try to sew slow with just a servo motor and it just didn't have the torque or punching power at the slow speed. Now full pedal is the fastest I would ever sew anything creating a lot more variable speed control in the foot pedal. It's not so sensitive to tiny movement. I'm not sure about the servo motors today but I was using one of those old grunting noisy servo motors in the beginning. Repurposed it for a Naumkeag on my boot sanding machine. @Southerngunner Really handy to be able to build your own table. $1200 for the Class 26 I had for sale and $500 for a table with a new motor and speed reducer and somebody could have been in a New Condition Class 26 for $1700 and a little work and that's with a flip down roller guide and includes all shipping. That table is a lot more sturdy than the pedestal stands.

This is my other sewing table. Corion top from an ice cream shop I remodeled. I put a lot more room to the right of the machine to set up a bobbin winding station. A little home sewing machine motor with a bobbin winder tire on the pulley. Winds 441 bobbins as fast as you want it to. As little as 5 seconds if you aren't careful. I also have a Singer 31-20 with a roller foot I use in this table for sewing boot tops. That's what the arm rest bolted to front of the table is for. Lots of hand wheeling sewing boot tops.

2 pcs of 3/4" Birch plywood glued and screwed with a 3/4" band running all the way around the outside would look like a solid chunk of wood for the table. No plywood edges. Done right and you can hardly see the seam. Being able to build your table can save you a lot of money. This table is a work in progress. Had a Singer 108W20 then a Singer 153W103 then a Class 4 then a Class 26 and now a Sewing Machine GA441. The flat bed table is a Cobra Class 4 flat bed with the rest of the scrap Formica . All the scrap Formica came from a job I did. Came up with a faster and stronger method for attaching it. No tools needed. Big hand knobs from underneath with threaded inserts in the bottom of the flat bed table legs to hold it place. Last two pictures are the original motor and speed reducer set up. This set up will move closer to the wall because of the new location of the motor. K legs $100 Presser foot lifter pedal $20 Plywood & 1x3 for the lower top & and thread cab $40 Motor $129 Speed reducer 12" pulley off Ebay $31 2" pulley (Dad's garage) 0 Bearing Blocks (Amazon) $13 Mercury Outboard 3/4" shaft 0 Idler pulley (Tractor Supply) $12 Aluminum shafts and brake cable $35 Lights $25 Full extension drawer guides $14 Cable for presser foot lifter $9 Rubber feet for legs $7 Belt for speed reducer $12 3 way plug $4 Table, Motor and speed reducer $451 + a lot of head scratching and work.

Sold

Yes.

Cobra Class 26 in like new condition. $1000 plus $200 shipping to lower 48. HEAD ONLY NO TABLE, NO SPEED REDUCER, NO MOTOR. I sewed one project on this machine. Then my sewing machine buddy called me saying he had these 441 Clones new unopened box straight of the boat for $1200 cash. (machine only) Took a lot of work to get it right but still half the price of Cobra or Cowboy machines. I have a machine identical to the Cobra Class 18 machine. Those are the reasons for selling this machine. Third picture is 207 thread. I think that sample is still in the machine. It is already boxed up and ready to ship. Located near Dallas, Tx. Machine will be shipped in original box with everything that came with it. THIS FOR MACHINE HEAD ONLY Machine is $1000 plus around $200 for shipping to anywhere in lower 48. Here is a list of what you would need to set up machine and have it working. Speed reducer from Toledo Sewing $150 includes shipping Servo Motor from Toledo $150 includes shipping. A really nice sturdy cylinder arm machine stand with tops for $400 includes shipping. I found it on Ebay. Might could get one of the pedestal stands from Cowboy or Cobra. Foot pedal for presser foot lifter, belts, thread stand and lights less than $100 So for about $2000 you can have all the pieces shipped to your house ready to assemble. If you are handy you can build your own stand and save another $200 or so. If you can build your own speed reducer you can save another $100 or so.

yes

yes

Yes still available. Head only, no motor, no table, no speed reducer.

This machine is still for sale

I’ll email you this evening

Thats where Cobra puts there's. Yes I put mine there as well. It's mounted on the #24 bolt. I had to use some needle nose to open up the hole a little to get the #24 bolt thru it.

Here you can the path of the thread with last thread guide in the 3 different positions. I have found videos on YouTube where they would skip the last thread guide completely.

Going thru the bottom eyelet before wrapping around disc 1 1/2 times creates upper thread tension you can't get rid of. I looked up every manufacturer I could find, and Cobra is the only one who goes thru the eyelet before going around the disc. It is OK on bigger thread and needles but will never let you loosen the top tension enough to sew on the lighter end capabilities of this machine. You don't need another piece of leather. Don't go thru the bottom eyelet before going around the disc 1 1/2 times and tighten the bottom tension. I would still move the last thread guide to the inside of the faceplate.

Simple fix. The diagram is in the thread RockyAussie is quoting. When you loosen set screw #31 it allows you to push part #30 over either way if you needed to. Once you move the needle bar over you will be able to straighten up the center walking foot.

Good Looking work Bob. How you like that new Cobra.