Tim Schroeder

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yes still available

Located in Lewisville Tx. $15 shipping to lower 48. Will ship anywhere. Buyer pays shipping

I just happened to be in the Ft Worth Tandy today and they have moved the Al Stohlman museum inside the store. Every piece he tooled and she hand sewed is on display. Unbelievable work.

You can see the tracing lines in blue ink. Top one pretty much traced the pattern and the background gets bigger. The bottom one looks much better and you can see how outside the lines I was tracing.

Craftool 50th Anniversary Swivel knife. Comes with Leatherwrangler 1/4” straight blade ground down to .044” from .0625 $150

Standard thickness is 1/16” or .0625

I use a very thin Leatherwrangler blade for those decorative cuts. That thin blade is .028 thick. Standard thickness is .125. The middle one is .042 thick. I cut all the pattern with it.

Thanks for the kind words. Correction, the top picture is the Brazilian import, the bottom is Herman Oak. Also working on tracing OUTSIDE the lines when tracing the pattern on to the leather.

Yes have a whole set of Barry king but I use Crartool Pro series. I like they way they work better.

Goal was to quite cutting so deep with the swivel knife, work on bargrounding and keep the background areas as small as possible. Second picture is on some Brazilian import from Frogjelly Leather. Lacks a little color but tools nice.

@cord1974 I'm wanting to use Sherwin Williams flat lacquer. I have and can get this veg tan that is super thin for making wallet interiors. I can dye it what ever color to match the outside but need a low sheen finish. I don't like shiny insides. I don't think there is any way for it to crack because I shoot thin layers thru a HVLP gun. I can put it on as thin as I want. I always used Wyosheen for a resist and final finish. It looks better and better the older and more used it gets but it is shiny. What do you use as a final finish? I'm ordering some Angelus Matte finish today. I read to really get a matte finish you need to hit with a heat gun as soon as you put it on.

Finished just in time. Made it for a client. Her and her husband have kept me busy for yrs working on their compound. Hope she likes it.

Sherwin Williams lacquer. They have a flat lacquer. I'm not sure if you can still buy wyosheen or something like it. It was shiny though and a satin finish looks a lot better.

Just curious if anybody had any thoughts on using just straight lacquer on dyed veg tan.

First try at upholstery. Leather is very unforgiven. It is a really cool chair.

Matches her dancing boots.

I had to shim the bottom on this 441 clone stitch length lever plate. I took the plate out from underneath the top and started adding shims under the bottom until it hit perfect. Interested to see the adjustment in the base of the machine if anybody shares' that with us. Here's 13 stitches max stitch length forward then backwards and then forward again.

I have the same CFM under my name and no edit button. Can you tell me what the CFM stands for?

Hi @Johanna, I haven't had an edit button for a long time. I'm on a computer with Windows 10. couple

You can make these machines sew backwards in the same holes. Here's 13 stitches forwards at max stitch length then backwards then forwards again. This is 2 layers of 2/3 oz. chrome tan with #138 thread using HE&P #25 needle plate and feed dog. The back looks pretty much the same. This the only machine I have been able to make stitch backwards in the same holes and the back looks like the front. Not sure how the little slide plate that comes in the top of the stitch length adjuster works but I removed it and started shimming the bottom until I got it right. Just curious if you are going thru the eyelet then around the tension disc and then back thru the eyelet again like Cobra says to thread machine. That creates unwanted tension you can never get rid of. Try threading the machine without going back thru the eyelet on both the top and bottom tension disc.

HE&P heprecision.com

@dikman It was more about torque. Well really about money. This has always been a hobby. Speed reducers were $175 and I have around $50 in the flat bed table speed reducer I did first. Motor is turning twice as fast as with speed reducers you can buy at the same sewing speed giving me more torque than with those speed reducers. Before I built the speed reducer I would try to sew slow with just a servo motor and it just didn't have the torque or punching power at the slow speed. Now full pedal is the fastest I would ever sew anything creating a lot more variable speed control in the foot pedal. It's not so sensitive to tiny movement. I'm not sure about the servo motors today but I was using one of those old grunting noisy servo motors in the beginning. Repurposed it for a Naumkeag on my boot sanding machine. @Southerngunner Really handy to be able to build your own table. $1200 for the Class 26 I had for sale and $500 for a table with a new motor and speed reducer and somebody could have been in a New Condition Class 26 for $1700 and a little work and that's with a flip down roller guide and includes all shipping. That table is a lot more sturdy than the pedestal stands.

This is my other sewing table. Corion top from an ice cream shop I remodeled. I put a lot more room to the right of the machine to set up a bobbin winding station. A little home sewing machine motor with a bobbin winder tire on the pulley. Winds 441 bobbins as fast as you want it to. As little as 5 seconds if you aren't careful. I also have a Singer 31-20 with a roller foot I use in this table for sewing boot tops. That's what the arm rest bolted to front of the table is for. Lots of hand wheeling sewing boot tops.