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Tim Schroeder

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Everything posted by Tim Schroeder

  1. Hello, I am looking for machine to sew boot uppers. I was looking for a 31-15 and found a 1300-2. can anybody tell me the difference in the two machines. Thanks for any help. Tim
  2. Hi Johanna,  Martyn started the conversation by calling all of us, and the next leader of the free world, idiots including yourself if you voted for Trump or Hillary. You let this arrogant bastard call the next leader of the free world an idiot. He then went on to call Trump a buffoon. And you said nothing. How come you don't tell him to tone it down? You could have put an end to this from the beginning. We don't need to hear some arrogant British bastard claim he speaks for the rest of the world and call all of the primary voters who voted for these two and the next leader of the free world idiots. Like I said in the one post, he could have commented on the stamps and left his opinion out of it.

  3. That a great looking pair of boots. Nice work.
  4. I get all my boot supplies from Panhandle Leather. I used the thinner Brown mid sole with their Basket weave one piece sole.
  5. Thanks for the comments. I already have some good scratches in them so they are looking like work boots. If you are going to make your own work boots they might as well show what kind of work you do. The uppers and the vamps are made from 4/5 oz. Herman Oak so they are pretty tough. I'll polish them once a week for about 4 or 5 months then they will start looking pretty rough. cjg, It took about 16 hrs just to tool and dye the uppers. Then about 40 hrs to put them together. I have learned a few tricks to speed things up a little. I have built two pairs of cowboy style boots and these seem to take a bit longer. Getting ready to start a pair of cowboy style boots that look about the same.
  6. Thanks for all the comments. Wore them to work today and they were great. Nothing like a custom fit pair of work boots. I wore the last pair 40 hrs a week for 15 months. They were pretty trashed but still could have wore them a while longer. I only wish I could afford to learn from a real boot maker. I just watched Lisa Sorrell videos on YouTube then built a couple of pair Nothing like hands on experience.
  7. Finally finished my new work boots. Look a lot like my last pair.
  8. Thought we needed a new topic for this section. Tooling for the uppers of my new work boots. They are at the shoe repair shop to get the welt sewn to the midsole. I will post some finished pictures when I get them back and put the soles on them. Thanks Tim
  9. Hello, I am making myself a pair of boots to show some people who think they want me to build them some boots. I am just using whats in my scrap pile. I just can't afford some Alligator or Ostrich at the moment. I am going to use some embossed Alligator for the vamps. When I pre stretched them on the cinch board, most of the embossing disappeared. Now they just look really cheap. My question is can you use this embossed Alligator without stretching it on a cinch board first. Thanks for any help. Tim
  10. Cutting the pattern determines how the finished tooling will look. So a sharp swivel knife is important. Barry's blades are very good and hard to beat for the price. He will make you one to fit any swivel knife. I personally use Paul's blades at Leatherwrangler. A bit more expensive but worth every penny. I have one he ground down to .042 thickness for cutting the main pattern and one he ground down to .027 for decorative cuts. It seems I can cut 3 to 4 times as much between stropping. Hope this helps. Good Luck Tim
  11. Hi McDade, I bought a Henly about a year ago. The only option then was the flat style yoke. I believe the price was 99.95. The blade I received is .170 thick. It is a very nice swivel knife. Today I am using two Leatherwrangler knives. Took a little getting use to (Aluminum barrels very light) because I have always used two Crafttool 50th Anniversary knives and loved the way they feel. For cutting the pattern I use a .043 thick blade and for the decorative cuts I use a blade that is .027. Paul at Leatherwrangler will make what ever you want. Both the Henly and the Leatherwrangler are very nice swivel knifes. Here is a picture of my swivel knife collection. I used a Berry King with a yoke out of a Tandy cast swivel knife. I loved the feel of it. (2nd one from the right) Barry's blades are very good and for a descent price. I bought a couple instead of sharpening. I have since learned to sharpen correctly. From left to right 2 Tandy Cfaftool, 2 Leatherwrangler, Chuck Smith Ole' Smoothie, Bob Beard Pro Series, Henly, and 2 Barry Kings.
  12. Thanks, These took 60 hrs because I didn't really have a clue what I was doing. I just watched Lisa Sorrell video's on YouTube and figured it out as I went. I think I could probably build them in about 40 hrs next time. I am starting myself a pair that will be fake Alligator with tooled uppers. Leather is just a hobby so I only work on them an hour or two everyday. Thanks Tim
  13. Finally finished my daughters boots. I have made a few pair of lace up boots but these are my first pair of Cowboy style boots. Made a lot of mistakes but learned a lot. Can't wait to start myself a pair.
  14. Hi, I not an expert but have built a few molded holsters. If you want to call we can talk about what you are looking for. 214-505=8400 Thanks Tim
  15. The rubber tire on the motor is a bobbin winder tire off any home sewing machine. Any sewing machine shop or Ebay will have one. A standard home sewing machine motor. Mine is an AlphaSew. You will need a pulley for the tire to fit on. Any sewing machine shop or Ebay.
  16. Hi Machine head, I really haven't had time to mess with it yet. I have talked to Harris at Pilgrim Shoe and he sounds like he will be very helpful. He has an adjustable edge guide that will make it possible to run two rows of stitching. I am making a pair of boots for my daughter that were suppose to be done for Christmas. I will take them to a local shoe repair man to sew them up when finished. Hoping to get my Landis going after these boots.
  17. Still trying to find out what size thread and what kind of thread is used for sewing soles on cowboy boots. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tim
  18. Just bought a Landis 12 and need to find out what size thread is used for sewing soles to the welt of Cowboy boots. I need to order a new needle and awl. Also what kind of thread. Thanks Tim
  19. Well I managed to get the machine home and unloaded without to much trouble. She definitely likes to lead whether you want her to or not. Looks like everything is working but it needs a good cleaning. The Auction guys opened the top cover and let it fall in the back and broke a big junk out of the back of the top cover and then shoved the giant broken piece in the middle of the machine. Any suggestions on how to go about cleaning 60 to 70 years of oil and dirt. I would like to know what size thread and what kind of thread is used for sewing the soles on Cowboy boots. I am going to buy a new awl and needle and need to know what size to order. Another question will be how to sew two rows of stitching since there is not any adjustment in the edge guide. Thanks for any help, Tim
  20. Thanks Machine Head and Glenn, Appreciate the info. Thought I was going to have to take dance lessons there for awhile. Hope she likes Willie, Waylon, Merle and Johnny. Thanks Again Tim
  21. Thanks for the warning/advice. I am a wannabe boot maker. I am hoping this machine works since I was not at the auction to check it out.
  22. This machine just has Landis 12. No letter. I paid $610 and I will have to drive 3 1/2 hours to go pick it up. Figured I could drive there and back next Sat. In the picture it was threaded so I hope it is in working condition. It was from a boot shop auction. My mistake. Looking at the pictures closer I can see MODEL F on the base.
  23. I use Hidepounders theory on casing. Look at his gallery. I slide the piece thru a sink full of water until the bubbles are coming out. Not until they quit coming out. Then place on flat water proof surface and cover with a piece of glass or plastic for at least a 1/2 a day. Then uncover and wait for it to start to turn back to normal color. I have all my patterns copied at Staples on thick paper and put the pattern on the leather and put my glass on it for 5 minutes or so. If the leather is to wet your paper will get wet. IThe paper should not get wet a tear when tracing with a pen. If the pen is trying to tear the paper then the leather was to wet. The lines on the leather should be dark when you remove the paper. That will help you tell how long to wait before starting. You can cut with it pretty moist (not mushy, the leather should feel a little firm) and bevel but it should be getting back to normal color when you do all the decorative stuff. Backgrounding looks best when you wait until it is back to normal color. If you need to add moisture to keep tooling I spray from the backside a let it sit for a few minutes. If you are leaving natural after tooling you should have a dark burnished look to the impressions especially the shading and beveling. Adding more moisture seems to make a little of the color away. If you can't tool all of it without adding moisture I cover halve the piece with plastic and tool all but the background then uncover the other halve finish tooling and start backgrounding in the area you tooled first. I get the most color in the impressions when I let it set under glass or a piece of plastic for at least 24 hours before uncovering. You can see where I sprayed around the edges on the backside after I cut this piece because the outside will try to dry first. In this tooling you can tell I beveled it with it a little moist. A lot of the beveling doesn't have the color it should. I dye and antique finish everything so the color isn't as noticeable as if you wanted to leave it natural. Tim
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