Tim Schroeder

Thanks. This piece took 10 hrs to trace, cut and tool. I usually average about 1 hour per circle plus the fill in areas.

Thanks It's a Chuck Smith flower center with a Barry King center shader around it.

I tooled this piece to make myself a dopp kit but have gotten to lazy to finish it. Still trying to find some soft chromium tanned leather to make the gusset out of. I made one from some veg tanned leather and dyed it the same color but it was some cheap Tandy leather and it's pretty stiff.

It was for a job. I would love to have this vehicle. LS-1 motor with a Pro charger, overdrive trannny and Ford 9". Not all that big won it sitting on the ground but it's not mine.

Tooled Seats and Door Panels. The headliner was Hair on hide from front to back.

These are the door panels to match the tooled seats in the International Travel All. The car has to be in Houston on Feb. 21 so I should have some finished pictures of the seats and door panels in a couple of weeks. The section with arm rest will be hair on hide and the section with the wi9ndow crank will be walnut wood.

Thanks for the comments. Embossing is when you push the image out from the back. Then you build a plug that fits in the image so it doesn't collapse. The plugs in the brown set are made of 6/7 oz. with another 6/7 oz. on top of that for the hardhat and the another little strip on top of that for the brim of the hardhat.

Here's a couple of sets of bolt bags. They wanted durable. They are 6/7 oz. Hermann Oak with the top trim out of some cheaper Tandy 3/4 oz. because it seems to stay a little stiffer after I wet it to fold over the top. The skulls in both sets are embossed. They are lined with Flame Retardant Kevlar material.

Prototype for some bolt bags I'm getting ready to start making This one is unlined made out of 6/7 oz. Herman Oak and the light colored leather trim is some 3/4 oz. Tandy leather. I'm wanting to make them out of 4/5 oz. lined with some 2/3 oz.. Looking for something thin (canvas maybe) to line them with so the outside can be 6/7 oz.

I was just looking at the presser foot and it was tilted to the back with just the back touching. Changed that presser foot right before sewing that guitar strap and this wallet. One of those ID10T errors. Been using that machine for years and have never had that problem. The edges are burnished using Glycerin soap, canvas and wax. I can't seem to get the Wyo Sheen to look good on the edges so I usually just put some Atom Wax on the edges when finished.

Thanks Gary, If your talking about the beveling around the tooling I use Barry King Bevelers then a spoon modeling tool one pass to smooth it up and then a ball point modeling tool to bevel the edge of the tooling so it doesn't look so flat and that also widens the beveling and smoothes it up more.

This strap is for my wife's brother and Christmas presents are suppose to be a surprise. So I couldn't make it custom fit. He'll just have to deal with it. I'll tell him I will make a new tail piece if it's to long.

New wallet for myself. This one has Kangaroo for the inside.

Chappell Boots.url It's called The Boot Book By C.T. Chappell. 940-995-2600 He's not there until noon (CST) If he doesn't answer you will just have to keep trying until he does. He's a great guy to deal with. C.T. Chappell Boot Shop and Seminars

I wore those boots for 16 months. Carl Chappell said the veg tan vamps would crack quicker than the chrome tan vamps so not to use veg tan for vamps. The ankle area with tooling started breaking apart. The first pair of slip on style boots with tooled uppers didn't do that in Those were the last pair of lace up boots I made but in January one of my buddies wants a pair of 12" tall lace up logger style boots. Probably all Kangaroo. Carl Chappell's book is pretty good. His shop is only about an hour from my house. I took a I day personal class from him and that pretty much answered all questions after buying his book. Bespoke Shoemaking by Tim Skyrme is a good book too. It has information about design and patterning.

Just finished putting my 5 in 1 back together. It was in pretty rough shape when I got it. $400 plus shipping off of Ebay. I have a new cutting wheel on the way and I sharpened the skiving blade myself. Completely disassembled cleaned and painted. I am getting it to skive 1 1/4" on some sole leather.

Here is some pictures of a drawing and the tooling. When I draw a pattern I try to make the background area as small as as possible. Then when I trace the pattern I draw outside the lines. Then after beveling and bar grounding the background areas still come out to big. The bar grounding and dying take a lot of time and the smaller the area the less work on pieces like this anyway. There is four of these. They are 2 bench seat covers going in a 71 International Harvester Travel All. The Logo was suppose to be tooled into the big piece but when I was laying it on top to see where we wanted to put it they asked if I could just sew that piece on top for some depth. Black outside with the Choc. Light Brown tooling. The basket weave border will be red with the I red and the H black. Not sure about the area around area around the IH.

Excellent job. Like the geometric design on the back.

Thanks Gary. Each side took about 7 hours. It usually takes a little over an hour per circle plus some time for the fill in areas.

My wife finally said something about a tooled handbag. This one matches everything she carries. The handles are from the old one she carried that I used as a starting point.

Finally made myself a pair of boots to wear around when going out. I liked the look of my work boots so I made these to match but with a leather soul. They are made on a different last than my work boots. Their the same Water Buffalo as on my wok boots as well. Super soft and makes great boots. Still made so many mistakes but getting better. Still can't dance with the Landis 12 so I had to hand stitch the welt to the sole as you can tell. I'm one of those Deplorables so I had make a political statement. If you want to see the backs you will have to go to the ADULT section.

Yes with a small brush and some patience. I usually just put the antique on thick and let it color the edge of the border. this time I dyed it so you don't have put the antique on thick. I dyed the face with one his edge markers and all of the black on the tool case I had on here a couple of weeks ago. They work great.

I use Bob Park's Edge Markers. One of the best tools I have. They are like a big fat marker with what ever color dye you want. The top has Wyo Sheen for a resist before I Antique so if you did get some on top it wipes off if you are quick. They make dying the edges easy and a lot faster.