Tim Schroeder

New wallet for myself. This one has Kangaroo for the inside.

Chappell Boots.url It's called The Boot Book By C.T. Chappell. 940-995-2600 He's not there until noon (CST) If he doesn't answer you will just have to keep trying until he does. He's a great guy to deal with. C.T. Chappell Boot Shop and Seminars

I wore those boots for 16 months. Carl Chappell said the veg tan vamps would crack quicker than the chrome tan vamps so not to use veg tan for vamps. The ankle area with tooling started breaking apart. The first pair of slip on style boots with tooled uppers didn't do that in Those were the last pair of lace up boots I made but in January one of my buddies wants a pair of 12" tall lace up logger style boots. Probably all Kangaroo. Carl Chappell's book is pretty good. His shop is only about an hour from my house. I took a I day personal class from him and that pretty much answered all questions after buying his book. Bespoke Shoemaking by Tim Skyrme is a good book too. It has information about design and patterning.

Just finished putting my 5 in 1 back together. It was in pretty rough shape when I got it. $400 plus shipping off of Ebay. I have a new cutting wheel on the way and I sharpened the skiving blade myself. Completely disassembled cleaned and painted. I am getting it to skive 1 1/4" on some sole leather.

Here is some pictures of a drawing and the tooling. When I draw a pattern I try to make the background area as small as as possible. Then when I trace the pattern I draw outside the lines. Then after beveling and bar grounding the background areas still come out to big. The bar grounding and dying take a lot of time and the smaller the area the less work on pieces like this anyway. There is four of these. They are 2 bench seat covers going in a 71 International Harvester Travel All. The Logo was suppose to be tooled into the big piece but when I was laying it on top to see where we wanted to put it they asked if I could just sew that piece on top for some depth. Black outside with the Choc. Light Brown tooling. The basket weave border will be red with the I red and the H black. Not sure about the area around area around the IH.

Excellent job. Like the geometric design on the back.

Thanks Gary. Each side took about 7 hours. It usually takes a little over an hour per circle plus some time for the fill in areas.

My wife finally said something about a tooled handbag. This one matches everything she carries. The handles are from the old one she carried that I used as a starting point.

Finally made myself a pair of boots to wear around when going out. I liked the look of my work boots so I made these to match but with a leather soul. They are made on a different last than my work boots. Their the same Water Buffalo as on my wok boots as well. Super soft and makes great boots. Still made so many mistakes but getting better. Still can't dance with the Landis 12 so I had to hand stitch the welt to the sole as you can tell. I'm one of those Deplorables so I had make a political statement. If you want to see the backs you will have to go to the ADULT section.

Yes with a small brush and some patience. I usually just put the antique on thick and let it color the edge of the border. this time I dyed it so you don't have put the antique on thick. I dyed the face with one his edge markers and all of the black on the tool case I had on here a couple of weeks ago. They work great.

I use Bob Park's Edge Markers. One of the best tools I have. They are like a big fat marker with what ever color dye you want. The top has Wyo Sheen for a resist before I Antique so if you did get some on top it wipes off if you are quick. They make dying the edges easy and a lot faster.

Thanks The dye is a 50/50 mixture of Feibing's Light Brown and Chocolate Brown thinned 50% . I mixed the colors a long time ago because I didn't have enough of either one to do a project and used it ever since. I really like the color. Thanks again.

This belt is pretty thick. Almost 1/4" thick. It is a blank from Panhandle Leather probably 8/9 oz. and I lined it with a piece of 3/4 oz. I did skive down both ends. My belts always bend or get a kink in the back so I thought thicker would be better. I did inlay a piece of the material I use for toe boxes in my boots about 8" long in the middle hopefully to stop that from happening. Yes the ends are tapered. Belt is 1 9/16" with the ends 1". Thanks for all the positive comments.

The buckle is Silver Plated from judgeleosmith off of Ebay. Nice buckles. The majority of the people I work around own horses or cows. Free advertisement. There's 4 or 5 that are ready for me to make them boots I'm just not ready yet. I,m making myself a pair to wear around then I think I'll be ready I also cut the back. I know it's not to fancy but I can pull that off in 30 mins.

Needed a new work belt to go with my new boots.

Thanks Ryan. I am drawing all my own tooling patterns. Black dye for the background. I have the Sheridan Style Carving book and Bob Parks Western Floral book. Helps when you can draw a pattern to fit any shape or size.

My old case was worn out. I used the metal bars and the zipper and made myself a new case.

Hi Jake, Thanks for the great comment. I wear 12EEE and couldn't find boots to fit so I decided to make my own. I started by watching Lisa Sorrell videos and some shoe making videos on YouTube and now I am working a little bit with Carl Chappell in St. Jo Texas. I just tried making a boot with out a sole just to see how it would go and then started figuring it out as I went along. I started with lace up boots and now I am working on slip on style boots. I don't have to get on roofs anymore so the cowboy boot style works for me now. Thanks Tim

This is the second pair I made out of this Water Buffalo. Still learning to build boots. If I could learn to run my Landis 12 my boots would look a lot better.

He's a great guy and willing help. 940-995-2600

Call Carl Chappell in St. Joe Texas. He is a bootmaker who deals in the machines.

Some uppers for new work boots. They are oiled up pretty heavy now.