toxo
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Posts posted by toxo
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Thanks again Mike. All good advice. Just hope it's just a clamping thing and nothing complicated in there. Haven't sorted it yet cos postman brought presents today. Servo motor now fitted and working cept clipping the cables up. Will go up in a bit to change the tension unit and then let the thing beat me up some more. I'm enjoying the learning tough. Softly softly catchee monkey.
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On 6/25/2019 at 5:44 PM, LizO said:Hi, I am hoping to find some help.
I recently purchased a singer 111w155. It worked when I bought it, however, once I brought it home, I haven’t gotten it to function.
The top thread just breaks at the needle, last time it broke the tip of the needle at the eye as well. Thread seems to get hung up in tensioner like in 1st photo
I have it set at “5” for stitch length. It is 135 thread.
I will attach another pic of resulting leather in next post.
Thank you so so much.
Hi Liz.
Your machine is very similar to my Durkopp 239. I'm very much a newbie also and I've been where you are now. At least you have the benefit of seeing it working so if you're using the same thread/needle etc you should be up and running in no time. The rod that eases the top tension disc on mine doesn't work (it opens up the two plates on the top disc so the thread goes where it should) so I have to make sure I snag it in close to the spindle manually. What was said earlier about where you have your bobbin is right. That upright with the holes in is part of the thread path. Go in out and around those holes to regulate the thread before it gets to the top tension disc. Fashion a bent wire coat hanger to hold the thread spool for the time being. As far as tension goes, I think a rule of thumb to start with is the top thread and the bottom thread should feel roughly the same. I still haven't got mine working right yet but I'm getting plenty of trying practice.
I have a new tension unit coming tomorrow and while ordering it I had a moment and ordered a servo motor as well. 
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About three years ago, before I had a clue about industrial machines I bought a Singer 366. I know, bad idea. The motor was screeching so I renewed the bearings and now it purrs. I need it gone now but the reverse isn't working. It looks like the lever isn't clamped onto the reversing shaft. Is there anyone who can talk me through what needs to be done? I think I have to unscrew the oil pump/filter assembly to get at the clamping bolts.
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Nice job CM!
Over here in the UK we're not allowed handguns so we're not down with the holster thing but anyone can see and admire the work and effort you put into it. Well done.
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Stunning. A great look. Well done.
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Good shout Mike. It is a German (metric) machine. Just thought the part might be available. I should have something if it is.
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For me I'd go further. How about clipping a bit more to get it even all over then really short down the middle so when you fold it they'll be a longer fringe around the outside curve? Just a thought. Don't shoot me
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Can anyone tell me where I can get this missing screw? On page 8 of the Durkopp parts list I think it's #024214a but my German is a bit rusty ha ha!
College couldn't help but whilst I was on the phone to them this morning I had a brain fart and ordered a servo motor.
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My guess is it would look awesome if you took some dog clippers to it. practice on a scrap piece, gradually clipping shorter until you get the best look. I think a hairy look rather than furry would be the way to go.
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Thanks Folker. I found the screw but the thread's gone. It's holding in there but loose. I could prolly fix it but a new one wouldn't hurt at that price. I just checked it on a couple bits of leather but no good. On closer inspection the bloody hook timing has shifted.
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This first image is about the lower disc. It's free to turn unless you make sure to hook the thread under the hook thing at about 1.o'clock on the disc. Even then it turns. the adjuster behind the tension mechanism (below the red oil hole) is attached to nothing and does nothing.
This is the thread I'm using at the moment primarily because it's thicker than the M60 that I have loads of. Was using a 120 needle that seemed ok but I broke the last one and here I'm using a 140. Now that I've kinda solved the shredding problem I'll go back to try other sizes.
when there was no guide above the needle.
After I cobbled a sort of guide together and tried some more tensions it started to sew :)
Eight layers of canvas. Still breaking thread now and then but definitely light at the end of the tunnel! I can see a servo motor in my stars.
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On 6/26/2019 at 1:23 PM, shoepatcher said:What model of machine is it? pics?
glenn
It's a 239-125 Glenn.
I'll post some pics later after resizing.
I've got it sewing canvas almost well but it won't look at leather yet. The thread is shredding and breaking and I think I've just found out why. The thread guide just above the needle is broken and I thought it wouldn't matter but I've just stopped before it broke and found the thread had looped around the end of the needle, hence the shredding and breaking. Am I right guys? I'm now thinking that's what the guide is there to stop.
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Have renewed a few bits and watched the videos and adjusted this and that and In the words of the late and great Eric Morecambe,
I think I'm playing all the right notes but not necessarily in the right order.
I think the problem isn't helped by the fact that I'm using M6o thread because I have lots of it. Is there a better size for tuning or does it not matter? I say this because after trying different size needles, 120 seems to work best but the thread still shreds or breaks. I realise this is a lot to do with tension, the thread was jumping out of the lower disc which is free to revolve, then I found if you get it in a certain place and snag the thread under the hook thing it stays put and doesn't jump out. The adjustment screw in back of the tension unit isn't attached to anything and the rod that comes across when you lift the presser foot with the knee thing only moves slightly and doesn't contact anything. I don't think this is affecting the tuning process. I've watched Uwes video but it starts with timing marks which I don't have. What's needed for plebs like me is a .... Start here then do that and then do that etc. If this is happening then do this, if this happens after that then do this. You get what I mean. A big problem for me is the underlying thought that there is something wrong with the machine but it keeps me on the hook with surprises every now and then. It was beating me severely when I was trying to sew canvas to see if there was any improvement and then I stuck two pieces of 3mm veg tan under it and it sewed it, not very well but it sewed it. I'm sort of bonding with the bloody thing and I hate the thought that it might just be a boat anchor.
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Very nice. Good job.
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Thanks Fred. Just as I thought, I bought 2/0s.
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On 4/9/2019 at 10:44 AM, neilyeag said:Started also using the JJ 002 and what a huge difference. I too made the mistake at first of buying the JJ #2 size!
I too might have made the same mistake but I can't find any reference to the purchase.
Can someone please give me the diameter of the JJ#002 and JJ#2? Thanks.
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I'm absolutely amazed. I went shopping locally for pulleys. I wanted a 40mm but they only stocked 50mm un-bored un-key-wayed or tapped for grub screws. Long story short, I got it to fit but it wasn't pretty. About 4pm yesterday I ordered a 40mm pulley from College Sewing Machine Parts and the postman has just put it in my hand (11.45am). 40mm pulley, bored and keywayed, £10.08 inc shipping.
Well done College and thank you.
Forgot to say the first company wanted £35 for machining.
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Beautiful. Well done.
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Thanks Mark. I have watched it a couple of times but can't find any timing marks. The video is excellent though and tells me enough hopefully to get it done.
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Are there any timing marks on the 239?
Have just replaced a one piece hook (possibly from a singer 111?) with a proper Durkopp hook compliments of Constabulary. Made a dogs breakfast of it and now not sure if the gears have moved so would like to make sure the timing is right. I know Uwe has done the Consew vid but he starts with timing marks.
In an effort to slow it down I've changed the machine pulley to 170mm and the motor pulley to 50mm and extended the clutch arm so it's looking promising but I think a servo motor might still be on the cards.
I'm a newbie at this but despite the frustration I'm enjoying the journey and strangely excited at what I might do with it once finished.
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20 hours ago, GDH said:Ran an advert with me recently so definitely still trading.
Took a trip up there about three weeks ago. Still the same as ever.
Magic place.
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I can confirm. Just spoke to them on the phone. Great suppliers. Website been hacked apparently.
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If not can anyone point me to a supplier anywhere near Medway, Kent, UK?
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Still a way to go but I've got it working.
Stitch length seems to have a mind of it's own and I've had lots of break offs.
Here's a pic..... sorry about the quality. This was thick canvas on webbing.
So in you guys opinions, is the machine good enough to invest in a servo motor?
My old Durkopp is driving me up the wall!
in Leather Sewing Machines
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I'm seriously getting fed up now. New servo motor. new tension unit. tried every combination of needle sizes from 90 to 140 with 20/40/60 bonded thread. sharpened the hook and timed with zero stitch set. And still shredding thread and skipping stitches. I can only take so much and I have to walk away and do something else. But the grey matter still processes and I've just had an idea. The shredding seems to be happening below the needle plate. Now I've just looked at this picture of my cobbled together thread guide just above the needle and I'm thinking the angle of the thread is wrong. With a decent amount of tension maybe it's not only shredding the thread but might it not also pull the needle resulting in missed stitches? Will investigate and inform.