toxo

thank me later and subscribe.

Just a suggestion, On the next one you might try putting the front panel OVER the gusset. Of course it's personal choice but this would give a more rounded look and open the interior rather than closing it.

It's not a matter of measurement. You must use your eyes along with some trial and error on some scrap. Is the feed stone shape in sync with the bell or does it need to go left/right a touch? Whilst you're down there, is the gap between the bell and the bottom of the presser foot even? Ensure that the up/down lever is down. Now run that piece of scrap through adjusting the up/down knob on the top until you get the depth you're looking for. Once all that is sorted you can worry about leaning the presser foot one way or the other. All this is really easy on thick leather, sometimes nigh on impossible on thin leather especially chrome tan. Sometimes the pressure on the stone makes a difference, ie another notch more or less on the hook spring thing. I'm taking as given a sharp bell with no burrs.

Not what I mean Keith. Read the football analogy.

Didn't describe it properly Wiz. Can't think of a decent example now I need one but say you have two curved pieces that are not together say laying flat and opposite each other. So imagine the two curves that are going away from each other. When hand stitching the two pieces will, stitch by stitch, bring the two pieces together to give a more complex shape. Ha! thought of something. Imagine four quarters of a football and you want to butt stitch two of them together to form a hemisphere. Not overlapping, butt stitched. Hand sewing will gradually get it done. The only way I can see machining is to maybe skive both pieces and overlap but how do you maintain the stitch line? Glue and clip I suppose but hard to clip when the two pieces aren't together yet. Probably making no sense at all.

When hand sewing on a curve the individual stitches will gradually pull the leather around some quite sharp corners. Has anyone found a consistent way to do it with a machine?

Don't really understand your question. With normal burr/rove rivets (they have many names) after you snug down the roves you cut off what's left.

I understood not one word of this post. Please explain what a "breaster" cone is and what's it's purpose. Thanks.

There was a post recently about different types of acrylic paint. Can someone point me to it please?

Sorry, this doesn't answer your question but I have to get things down whilst I think of them. Must've been addressed before but there must be a case here for making an exact plaster mould of your foot and casting it in resin right?

Are the extra holes on the right hand pattern? Because they don't look the same to me. The center of the right hand holes might be in line with the edge of the holes on the left. That might account for it.

I'll throw this in cos I'm bored. I think it was Cechaflo that showed how you can create a snazzy looking stitch by using a contrasting thread in the bobbin and deliberately slacking off on the tension to get alternate colours on top. Has anyone tried this?

OMG. OK. A man says to the doctor one minute I feel like a wigwam and the next I feel like a teepee. The doctor said you're two tents.

Chinese dustman knocks on the door of a house. A bronzed hunk of a man answers and the dustman says Where you bin? The man says, I've been in Hawaii, do you like my tan? Dustman says Naw naw naw, where you wheelie bin? The man says ok I lied, I've been on the sunbed.

Oh we're really regressing are we! Two cows in a field. One says to other "What do you think about this mad cow disease?" Other cow said "Doesn't apply to me, I'm a duck ".

I had a shopfitting company and the Northern Ireland rep tried to do a job with local labour that should have come to me. They ran into a big problem and I got a call to fly out to Portadown the next day. Was a bit scary. Everything had cages on the windows But I got the job done. The shop was called "Super Crazy Prices" and two weeks later it was blown up.

Fantastically fine work, well done. Hate to think how much time is in that.

Don't know how to select parts of a thread but the machine I have is in this thread from last year. I just glued some felt to a belt but the felt just stretched out of shape but the potential is really good.

I don't think wood is the way to go. I think it's just easier to do. Something like canvas or denim will get you there quicker. I tried felt glued on one of my sanding belts. Wasn't bad but needs work. Considering a good burnish needs heat I certainly wouldn't go with anything smooth.

Makes sense now. Thought it was too good to be just a crease.

Halfway between the edge and the stitching, where the bump stops is a line but no stitches. The actual stitch line is quite far away and if it's just glue holding it down I would worry about it lifting over time.

Nicely done. I've always admired the Caduceus as a symbol. Nice contrasts.

Firstly it's on the top shelf because it's not sellable. I wouldn't risk $50 on something that Might work. If you jump through all the hoops necessary to get it home and find it doesn't work you'll not get your money back. If he can get it down and it turns freely you might have a chance but it still might not be in sync. If it looks like there's a chance you could make an offer but I wouldn't be offering anything near $500. Welding cast steel can be difficult so you can use the cost of repair in your favour.

Although this doesn't include a comb riser it might give you some inspiration. I did the shotgun for a friend because he didn't want to drill the stock. The last pic is mine and just shows an alternative elasticated wrap instead of leather if you can find one.

Welcome to the forum from a neighbour. There are many ways to do this. Assuming you don't want to damage the stock I think the safest way is to glue up several layers of leather (or anything else) and trying and shaping as you go. when you're happy with the result, wrap the whole thing with leather and stitch along the bottom.